aEUROoeThe spirit of the pioneering mountaineer emanates from Mountain Fever, a superb account of the 19th century conquests of the highest and most imposing of Pacific Northwest mountains, Mt. Rainier. [This] is the history of organized mountaineering in the Northwest as well as of Mt. Rainier and those who accepted its challenge. It carries those stories to the turn of the century when Mt. Rainier achieved the status of a national park.aEURO - Portland Oregonian aEUROoeHainesaEURO(t) story begins with the day Capt. George Vancouver sighted the snowy mountain in 1792. The author sifted accounts of the first climbers, Dr. William F. Tolmie who went to the ridge above the forks of the Mowich River in 1833, the Bailey-Edgar-Ford party, which may have reached the summit in 1851, the unknown climbers guided by a Yakima Indian, Saluskin, in 1855 and the 1857 attempt of Lieut. August V. Kautz. These were the men who penetrated the wilderness without blazing a trail.aEURO - Seattle Times aEUROoeThis book - a collectoraEURO(t)s item - will be cherished by all who have set foot on the peak and who have been inspired by its distant views.aEURO - William O. Douglas Aubrey Haines is a retired historian for the National Park Service.

Is it not better to take risks than die within from rot? Is it not better to change one's life completely than to wait for the brain to set firmly and irreversibly in a way of life and one environment? I think it is ... taking risks, not for the sake of danger alone, but for the sake of growth, is more important than any security one can buy or inherit. - Charles Houston It was the failed summit attempt and a failed rescue in the Himalaya that brought Charles Houston MD fame and adulation in the mountaineering world. His leadership of the American K2 expedition of 1953 is still celebrated as the embodiment of all that is right and good in the mountains. Houston, a doctor from New England, became a leading authority in high altitude ailments and artificial heart research, advising the US government, military and academia. He made an unparalleled contribution to mountain medicine, building some of the first artificial heart prototypes in his garage and playing a key part in Kennedy's 1960s Peace Corps initiatives in India. In Brotherhood of the Rope, Boardman Tasker Prize winning author Bernadette McDonald traces the development of an American hero. This is the biography of a well-heeled New England medical man who excelled at expedition leadership and whose experience in the mountains helped his research into high altitude medical matters during his long and varied career as a doctor. Houstons's mountain adventures, the ups and downs of his varied medical career and the associated challenges of family life are related in a candid biography that touches on many aspects of twentieth-century affairs.

"A dramatic story, ably and convincingly told . . . A chilling look at the precarious line between success and tragedy."--"Kirkus Reviews"

On May 15, 2006, a young British climber named David Sharp lay dying near the top of Mount Everest while forty other climbers walked past him on their way to the summit. A week later, Lincoln Hall, a seasoned Australian climber, was left for dead near the same spot. Hall's death was reported around the world, but the next day he was found alive after spending the night on the upper mountain with no food and no shelter.

If David Sharp's death was shocking, it was hardly singular: ten others died attempting to reach the summit that year. In this meticulous inquiry into what went wrong, Nick Heil tells the full story of the deadliest year on Everest since the infamous season of 1996. As more climbers attempt the summit each year, Heil shows how increasingly risky expeditions and unscrupulous outfitters threaten to turn Everest into a deadly circus.

Written by an experienced climber, "Dark Summit" is both a riveting account of a notorious climbing season and a troubling investigation into whether the pursuit of the ultimate mountaineering prize has spiraled out of control.

The essential handbook for every beginner, Learning to Climb Indoors is the most complete book available on indoor climbing-now revised and in its third edition! Veteran climber, performance coach, and renowned author Eric J. Hoerst gives you all the information you need to get started and have fun. From what to expect on your first visit to a climbing gym to in-depth instruction on climbing techniques, tactics, strategy, and taking your indoor climbing skills outside, this guide will take you through your first few days-and years-as a climber. Hoerst covers basic gear, fundamental safety techniques, and the importance of personal one-on-one instruction at the gym. Chapters on mental control, physical conditioning, and self assessment round out the training. And as you progress, advice on advanced techniques and tactics will help you conquer the steepest walls. This revised and fully updated edition includes a new section on youth climbing as well as more information on taking your indoor-climbing skills outside onto real rock. Full colour photos round out the package to make Learning to Climb Indoors an indispensable resource for new climbers.

This biography tells the story of one of the most colourful - some might say eccentric - people of the Canadian West, who also happens to be a climber. Forest didn't take up the sport until he was in his mid-40s. At a time when most men are thinking of retiring from strenuous activities, Don was busy setting records: the first person to climb all the 11,000-foot peaks in the Canadian Rockies and Columbia Mountains and the oldest person to climb Mount Logan, Canada's highest mountain. Apart from Don's climbing achievements, for which he received the Banff Mountain Festival's Summit of Excellence Award in 1990, Don is renowned for his idiosyncrasies, which the author and Don's friends have documented in detail.

Don Whillans has an iconic significance for generations of climbers. His epoch-making first ascent of Annapurna's South Face, achieved with Dougal Haston in 1970, remains one of the most impressive climbs ever made - but behind this and all his other formidable achievements lies a tough, recalcitrant reality: the character of the man himself. Whillans carried within himself a sense of personal invincibility, forceful, direct and uncompromising. It gave him sporting superstar status - the flawed heroism of a Best, a McEnroe, an Ali. In his own circle, his image was the working-class hero on the rock-face, laconic and bellicose, ready to go to war with the elements or with any human who crossed his path on a bad day.

Modern Mountaineering on Alpine Rock, Snow, and Ice.

If your experience as a backpacker or rock climber is drawing you higher; if the cold, remote alpine environment calls you nearer, this book is for you. "The Mountaineering Handbook" will teach you the skills that will take you to the top. Even if youre already an experienced mountaineer, youll find detailed descriptions of the newest and most effective techniques to refine and organize your methods and equipment. "The Mountaineering Handbook" isn't mired in outdated traditionalism; its new-school techniques are safer, more effective, and more fun for mountaineers at every level. With constant emphasis on light, fast, and efficient mountaineering, Craig Connally shows you how to: . . Move quickly up and down rock, snow, and ice with appropriate safety systems. Manage mountain hazards, including rockfall, avalanche, lightning, and high-altitude illness. Select the best equipment for your personal style and objectives. Maintain sound nutrition and training according to the most up-to-date science. Understand the human factors of mountaineering--the social and psychological forces that influence critical decisions. .

Connallys passion for mountaineering is evident in his writing--"The Mountaineering Handbook" is clever, insightful, and entertaining. He intends to move mountaineering into the twenty-first century, but hes also determined to turn the traditional how-to book on its ear by injecting personality, humor, and thoughtfulness into every page..

"Backpackers venture into the wilderness to see a little farther, but mountaineers describe their adventures as means of looking more closely into their own selves--to see alittle deeper. Climbing mountains compels introspection because every detail--from the smallest to the most ominous--must be constantly attended to. Thats both exhausting and exhilarating. Exhilarating, because the criteria for success are absolute and absolutely objective--they are chosen by the mountain, not by the mountaineer, and every person is equal when judged by mountains. Success requires mountaineers to appraise their own physical and mental capacities and to know, or discover, the extent of their reserves of competence, commitment, and courage. Mountaineering does not build character so much as it reveals it.""--from "The Mountaineering Handbook,"

Craig Connally puts many years of mountaineering, ski mountaineering, and climbing rock and ice into his engaging writing. More importantly, he has applied his advanced degrees in science and his career as an engineering manager to sort out and explain what works and what doesnt in the mountains..

In "Rappelling" you'll find everything you need to know about descending a rope, from the most basic to advanced techniques, including knots, rigging strategies, rappel devices, and more. Included is a comprehensive discussion of ropes, slings, and all the hardware used in rappelling. Rappelling techniques for climbing are covered in detail, including multi-pitch rappelling methods and rope management. Single rope fixed line rappelling techniques used in caving, canyoneering, and for industrial applications are also discussed, along with improvised rope ascending techniques ("prusiking") and ascending a fixed rope with mechanical ascenders ("jumaring"). Rappelling accident analysis and prevention is also included, along with a section on rappel back-ups and safety checks. Inside you'll find information on:

• Ropes
• Rappel devices
• Slings and webbing
• Knots and hitches
• Rigging rappel anchors
• Rappelling methods
• Rope retrieval techniques
• Rappelling accident analysis
• Rappel safety back-ups
• Working with fixed lines
• Rope ascending techniques

The last thing on Lizzie's mind is catching the bouquet When her best friend's wedding venue catches fire, Lizzie Martin is on the case to find somewhere new. By some miracle, a space opens up at Halesmere House, and it makes perfect sense to move the event to the Lake District artists' residence. But Lizzie has painful memories of Halesmere... And when she bumps into Cal, her first love, she is forced to confront the past. Now a sought-after blacksmith, Cal has his own studio at Halesmere and the two must find a way to get along if this wedding isn't going to be a complete disaster. It soon becomes apparent that their attraction hasn't waned, but can Lizzie put their shared past behind her and learn to trust the man who left her once before? An emotional and heartwarming romance for fans of Phillipa Ashley, Heidi Swain and Sue Moorcroft.

A century ago the summits of the world's highest peaks, Everest included, were beyond reach. Pioneering attempts to overcome the dangers of climbing at extremely high altitudes ended in failure, sometimes with disastrous consequences. Yet today high-altitude ascents are frequent, almost commonplace. Everest can be conquered by relatively inexperienced mountaineers, and their exploits barely merit media attention - unless they go fatally wrong. In this fascinating study of the dramatic history of Everest climbs, Richard Sale and George Rodway describe in vivid detail the struggle to conquer the mountain and the advances in scientific knowledge that made the conquest possible. Their account gives a compelling insight into the science of mountaineering as well as the physical and psychological challenges faced by individuals who choose to test themselves in some of the harshest conditions on earth. Dr George Rodway, an assistant professor at the University of Utah, is a physiologist, mountaineer and an expert on mountain medicine and the science of high-altitude climbs. As well as publishing many papers and articles on these subjects, he is the editor of George Ingle Finch's The Struggle for Everest. He has also written extensively on the history of high-altitude physiology for journals such as High Altitude Medicine and Biology.

This book highlights a century of landscape art inspired by the Mount Assiniboine area of the Canadian Rockies from 1899 to 2006. The book includes a preface by Robert Sandford and an introduction discussing the history of exploration of the region, early ascents of Mount Assiniboine, the development of tourism, and the significant art this majestic peak has inspired. Illustrations in the introduction include four black-and-white archival photos, along with five colour reproductions of Mary Vaux Walcott's stunning watercolours of wildflowers sketched in the area. The main text presents 42 colour plates illustrating a wide variety of styles and media from 23 artists including A P Coleman, Carl Rungius, James Simpson, Belmore Browne, Barbara and A C Leighton, Catharine and Peter Whyte, W J Phillips and A Y Jackson.Of these, only seven have been previously published. The colour plates are organised into three sections: approaching Assiniboine from the northwest; east of Assiniboine; and Mount Assiniboine itself. Each section is introduced with a black-and-white archival photograph and a quotation. The book concludes with a list of artists, endnotes, a full bibliography and an index.

This wonderfully appealing and practical gift book features step-by-step instructions on how to tie over 50 knots and when and where to use them. The beautiful two colour illustrations and clear instructions quickly teach you how to tie classic knots, such as the Reef Knot and Bowline, through to more specialist knots such as the Alpine Butterfly and the Taut Line Hitch. The knots are clearly organised for safe application across a range of activities including sailing, climbing, fishing, camping or for decoration. The useful introduction and reference section tells you all you need to know about knot work; including an explanation of the key terms, recommended techniques and a complexity rating for tying each knot. So, if you want to make a rope ladder with your kids, sail the oceans, be safe climbing in the mountains or make a True Lovers knot then this book has every knot you should know how to tie, plus many more. The perfect gift for craftsmen and women alike and the adventurer in all of us. Featuring an exclusive foreword from Tim Treloar of TT Adventures, co-presenter of the BAFTA-winning Survival School with Bear Grylls.

Major Norton gave the order to fire two or three times ... Their advanced machine gunners could be seen rushing forward and establishing themselves in commanding posts ... Almost at once the ridge we were occupying was swept by machine gun fire ... E.F. Norton lived a life of distinction in the declining years of the British Empire. Born into an accomplished, well-travelled family, he followed his heart and enlisted for a professional career as a soldier. A distinguished military career followed, punctuated with indulgences in his passion for exploration and mountaineering. The British Empire was starting to crumble, and Norton would be called upon more than once to rise to a variety of challenges. Norton's gift for leadership was first demonstrated via his rapid progression through the ranks in the First World War, which paved the way for future leadership appointments, having earned the confidence and respect of those under his command. Events in the Second World War followed suit, when Norton was abruptly assigned the post of acting governor of Hong Kong, entrusted to save the civilian population from imminent Japanese invasion. The 1924 Everest expedition also exemplifies the pattern of having had leadership thrust upon him - in this case when General Charles Bruce was struck down by malaria on the approach march. Leading from the front, Norton set an altitude record for climbing on Everest without supplementary oxygen - a record only bettered in 1978 when Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler made the first ascent of Everest without oxygen. Yet tragedy would follow Norton's achievement, when George Mallory and Andrew Irvine disappeared high on the mountain. In Norton of Everest, Hugh Norton has written sensitively and knowledgably about his father's remarkable life as mountaineer, soldier, naturalist, artist and family man. As on Everest, the real story is not only the death of the gallant, but also the heroics of the quiet survivors like E.F. Norton.

Long overdue anthology highlights women in Yosemite climbing history. - Climbing Magazine Contributors include Lynn Hill, Steph Davis, Liz Robbins, Beth Rodden, Kate Rutherford, Katie Brown and more Introduction by Mari Gingery Author is deeply connected with the Valley community through her work with Yosemite Search and Rescue (YOSAR) Though long overlooked, women have always been at the center of Yosemite--climbing, crafting equipment, and establishing new routes. In Valley of Giants, editor and climber Lauren DeLaunay Miller pulls together journal excerpts, original essays, interviews, archival materials, and memorable firsts that span the past century of climbing in the Valley. This first-ever collection of both famed and untold stories from women at the heart of Yosemite climbing gathers almost 40 contributors, from Bea Vogel who forged her own pitons to Molly Higgins who participated in the first all-female ascent of the Nose on El Capitan to Liz Robbins who established routes in Yosemite Valley during the Golden Age. Astonishing Stonemasters like Lynn Hill, as well as many other notable climbers, including Steph Davis, Kate Rutherford, Beth Rodden, Chelsea Griffie, Libby Sauter, and more share their recollections of the exhilaration they felt up on the wall and the determination it took to get there. As Mari Gingery, one of the first women to climb the Shield on El Cap, writes in the foreword, the stories feature a medley of intrepid female characters who offer fresh perspectives. Organized into five distinct eras in Yosemite climbing history, this groundbreaking anthology captures a range of stories from heartbreaking losses to soaring joys, trip reports of significant ascents to moments that convey the larger essence of the Valley--and what it means to call this iconic place home.

Climbing: From Gym to Rock is a pocket-size instructional climbing book with the backing of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) that focuses on getting indoor climbers outdoors. Complete with color photos throughout, the book features information on environment and terrain, types of crag, best practices, and more.

Adventurous stories told from a non-Western perspective by one of the most accomplished early Himalayan climbersnow in English for the first time. Sherpas have recently been in the public eye, in part because of the 2013 Everest "brawl," the 2014 avalanche that took the lives of thirteen climbing Sherpas, and the 2015 earthquake that devastated Nepal. These events and others have led to much public discussion about how Sherpas today are treated and viewed by their Western employers. Sherpa expands our understanding of these issues by providing historical context. The autobiography of Ang Tharkay, who was born in 1908 and became one of the most renowned Sherpas during early Himalayan exploration, has long been a collector's item in the original French-language edition but it has never been available in English until now. In Sherpa, Tharkay describes his experiences traveling with Eric Shipton and H.W. Tilman and as the sirdarhead Sherpaon Maurice Herzog's 1950 ascent of Annapurna. Few such Sherpa accounts have been written, and fewer still from these early Himalayan expeditions. Opening with a brief account of Tharkay's childhood and background, Sherpa then immerses readers in expeditions on Everest, Nanga Parbat, and, of course, Annapurna. Tharkay reveals some of the politics within the Sherpa support teams: petty arguments and shared struggles that went unnoticed or at least unrecorded by those who hired them. Tharkay's admiration of his employers is leavened with his recognition of their shortcomings, but his affection for the climbers who employed him, and theirs for him, radiates throughout the story.