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Books > Food & Drink > General
When her mother passed along a cookbook made and assembled by her
grandmother, Erica Abrams Locklear thought she knew what to expect.
But rather than finding a homemade cookbook full of apple stack
cake, leather britches, pickled watermelon, or other "traditional"
mountain recipes, Locklear discovered recipes for devil's food cake
with coconut icing, grape catsup, and fig pickles. Some recipes
even relied on food products like Bisquick, Swans Down flour, and
Calumet baking powder. Where, Locklear wondered, did her
Appalachian food script come from? And what implicit judgments had
she made about her grandmother based on the foods she imagined she
would have been interested in cooking? Appalachia on the Table
argues, in part, that since the conception of Appalachia as a
distinctly different region from the rest of the South and the
United States, the foods associated with the region and its people
have often been used to socially categorize and stigmatize mountain
people. Rather than investigate the actual foods consumed in
Appalachia, Locklear instead focuses on the representations of
foods consumed, implied moral judgments about those foods, and how
those judgments shape reader perceptions of those depicted. The
question at the core of Locklear's analysis asks, How did the
dominant culinary narrative of the region come into existence and
what consequences has that narrative had for people in the
mountains?
In this sweeping chronicle of guarana-a glossy-leaved Amazonian
vine packed with more caffeine than any other plant-Seth Garfield
develops a wide-ranging approach to the history of Brazil itself.
The story begins with guarana as the pre-Columbian cultivar of the
Satere-Mawe people in the Lower Amazon region, where it figured
centrally in the Indigenous nation's origin stories, dietary
regimes, and communal ceremonies. During subsequent centuries of
Portuguese colonialism and Brazilian rule, guarana was reformulated
by settlers, scientists, folklorists, food technologists, and
marketers. Whether in search of pleasure, profits, professional
distinction, or patriotic markers, promoters imparted new meanings
and uses to guarana. Today, it is the namesake ingredient of a
multibillion-dollar soft drink industry and a beloved national
symbol. Guarana's journey elucidates human impacts on Amazonian
ecosystems; the circulation of knowledge, goods, and power; and the
promise of modernity in Latin America's largest nation. For
Garfield, the beverage's cross-cultural history reveals not only
the structuring of inequalities in Brazil but also the mythmaking
and ordering of social practices that constitute so-called
traditional and modern societies.
Immigrant children first speak the language of their mothers, and
in Toledo, Ohio's Little Syria neighborhood where Joseph Geha grew
up, the first place he would go to find his mother would be the
kitchen. Many of today's immigrants use Skype to keep in touch with
folks back in the old country but in those "radio days" of old
before the luxuries of hot running water or freezers, much less
refrigeration, blenders, or microwaves, the kitchen was where an
immigrant mother usually had to be, snapping peas or rolling grape
leaves while she waited for the dough to rise. There, Geha's mother
took special pride in the traditional Syro-Lebanese food she
cooked, such as stuffed eggplant, lentil soup, kibbeh with tahini
sauce, shish barak, and fragrant sesame cookies. As much a memoir
as a cookbook, Kitchen Arabic illustrates the journey of Geha's
early years in America and his family's struggle to learn the
language and ways of a new world. A compilation of family recipes
and of the stories that came with them, it deftly blends culture
with cuisine. In her kitchen, Geha's mother took special pride in
the Arabic dishes she cooked, cherishing that aspect of her
heritage that, unlike language, has changed very little over time
and distance. With this book, Geha shares how the food of his
heritage sustained his family throughout that cultural journey,
speaking to them-in a language that needs no translation-of joy and
comfort and love.
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