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Books > Food & Drink > General
In this sweeping chronicle of guarana-a glossy-leaved Amazonian
vine packed with more caffeine than any other plant-Seth Garfield
develops a wide-ranging approach to the history of Brazil itself.
The story begins with guarana as the pre-Columbian cultivar of the
Satere-Mawe people in the Lower Amazon region, where it figured
centrally in the Indigenous nation's origin stories, dietary
regimes, and communal ceremonies. During subsequent centuries of
Portuguese colonialism and Brazilian rule, guarana was reformulated
by settlers, scientists, folklorists, food technologists, and
marketers. Whether in search of pleasure, profits, professional
distinction, or patriotic markers, promoters imparted new meanings
and uses to guarana. Today, it is the namesake ingredient of a
multibillion-dollar soft drink industry and a beloved national
symbol. Guarana's journey elucidates human impacts on Amazonian
ecosystems; the circulation of knowledge, goods, and power; and the
promise of modernity in Latin America's largest nation. For
Garfield, the beverage's cross-cultural history reveals not only
the structuring of inequalities in Brazil but also the mythmaking
and ordering of social practices that constitute so-called
traditional and modern societies.
When her mother passed along a cookbook made and assembled by her
grandmother, Erica Abrams Locklear thought she knew what to expect.
But rather than finding a homemade cookbook full of apple stack
cake, leather britches, pickled watermelon, or other "traditional"
mountain recipes, Locklear discovered recipes for devil's food cake
with coconut icing, grape catsup, and fig pickles. Some recipes
even relied on food products like Bisquick, Swans Down flour, and
Calumet baking powder. Where, Locklear wondered, did her
Appalachian food script come from? And what implicit judgments had
she made about her grandmother based on the foods she imagined she
would have been interested in cooking? Appalachia on the Table
argues, in part, that since the conception of Appalachia as a
distinctly different region from the rest of the South and the
United States, the foods associated with the region and its people
have often been used to socially categorize and stigmatize mountain
people. Rather than investigate the actual foods consumed in
Appalachia, Locklear instead focuses on the representations of
foods consumed, implied moral judgments about those foods, and how
those judgments shape reader perceptions of those depicted. The
question at the core of Locklear's analysis asks, How did the
dominant culinary narrative of the region come into existence and
what consequences has that narrative had for people in the
mountains?
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