At dusk on 24 September 1975, Doug Scott and Dougal Haston became
the first Britons to reach the summit of Everest as lead climbers
on Chris Bonington's epic expedition to the mountain's immense
south-west face.As darkness fell, Scott and Haston scraped a small
cave in the snow 100 metres below the summit and survived the
highest bivouac ever - without bottled oxygen, sleeping bags and,
as it turned out, frostbite. For Doug Scott, it was the fulfilment
of a fortune-teller's prophecy given to his mother: that her eldest
son would be in danger in a high place with the whole world
watching.Scott and Haston returned home national heroes with their
image splashed across the front pages. Scott went on to become one
of Britain's greatest ever mountaineers, pioneering new climbs in
the remotest corners of the globe. His career spans the golden age
of British climbing from the 1960s boom in outdoor adventure to the
new wave of lightweight alpinism throughout the 1970s and 1980s.In
Up and About, the first volume of his autobiography, Scott tells
his story from his birth in Nottingham during the darkest days of
war to the summit of the world.Surviving the unplanned bivouac
without oxygen near the summit of Everest widened the range of what
and how he would climb in the future. In fact, Scott established
more climbs on the high mountains of the world after his ascent of
Everest than before. Those climbs will be covered in the second
volume of his life and times.
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