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Books > Travel > Travel writing > Expeditions
`If I could choose a place to die, it would be in the mountains.’
Clouds from Both Sides is the autobiography of Julie Tullis, the
first British woman to climb an 8,000-metre peak – Broad Peak –
and the first to reach the summit of K2, the world’s
second-highest mountain. A truly remarkable woman, Julie describes
her early days in a London disrupted by World War II; her family
life, climbing, teaching and living by the sandstone outcrops of
High Rocks and Harrison’s Rocks in Tunbridge Wells, Kent; and her
experience as a high-level mountaineer and filmmaker. Tullis
demonstrates her determination and self-discipline through training
to black-belt standard in both judo and aikido, and never allows
financial concerns to keep her away from the high mountains – a
place where she felt at peace. Filled with vivid accounts of
frostbite, avalanches, snow blindness and exhilaration alongside
her climbing partner Kurt Diemberger, Clouds from Both Sides takes
us to Yosemite, Nanga Parbat, Everest and K2. First published in
1986 before her death, and with an additional chapter written by
Peter Gillman documenting Tullis’s final, fated expedition to K2,
this story is as relevant and awe inspiring today as it ever was.
Tullis’s achievements are timeless and her attitudes and opinions
far ahead of their time. Clouds from Both Sides is a tribute to the
memory of an inspirational woman determined to strive for her
dreams, an extraordinary account of her adventures and an
exhilarating testament to her courage.
In 1982, following the relaxation of access restrictions to Tibet,
six climbers set off for the Himalaya to explore the little-known
Shishapangma massif in Tibet. Dealing with a chaotic build-up and
bureaucratic obstacles so huge they verged on comical, the
mountaineers gained access to Shishapangma's unclimbed South-West
Face where Doug Scott, Alex MacIntyre and Roger Baxter-Jones made
one of the most audacious and stylish Himalayan climbs ever. First
published in 1984 as The Shishapangma Expedition, Shishapangma won
the first ever Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature. Told
through a series of diary-style entries from all the climbers
involved, Shishapangma reveals the difficult nature of Himalayan
decision-making, mountaineering tactics and climbing relationships.
Tense and candid, the six writers see every event differently,
reacting in different ways and pulling no punches in their opinions
of the other mountaineers - quite literally at one point.
Nonetheless, the climbers, at the peak of their considerable powers
and experience, completed an extremely committing enterprise. The
example set by their fine climb survives and several new routes
(all done in alpine style) have now been added to this magnificent
face. For well-trained climbers, such ascents are fast and
efficient, but the consequences of error, misjudgement or bad luck
can be terminal and, sadly, soon afterwards two of the participants
were struck down in mountaineering accidents - MacIntyre hit by
stonefall on Annapurna's South Face and Baxter-Jones being caught
by an ice avalanche on the Aiguille du Triolet. In addition their
support climber, Nick Prescott, died in a Chamonix hospital from an
altitude-induced ailment. Shishapangma is a gripping first-hand
account of the intense reality of high-altitiude alpinism.
The Next Horizon, the second volume in Chris Bonington's
autobiography after I Chose to Climb, picks up his story from 1962
and relates his subsequent adventures as a mountaineer,
photographer, journalist and expedition leader alongside eminent
climbers including Doug Scott and Don Whillans, throughout an
extraordinary decade of adversity, thrill and discovery. The book
opens with a journey to Chile to climb the Central Tower of Paine.
Bonington then recounts his ascents across the globe; from the Old
Man of Hoy in Scotland, the Eiger in Switzerland, to Sangay in
Ecuador to name but a few. He concludes in the summer of 1972 with
preparations for his ambitious autumn Everest expedition. This
revealing narrative of Chris Bonington's experiences provides an
insight into the charismatic generation of climbing personalities
with whom he travelled, as well as his development into the
celebrity we know today.
In 2004 Carol Young set herself a challenge - walking in stages
from Land's End to John O'Groats, on her own. For someone who had
only once travelled away from home alone, it was quite a challenge,
particularly as it meant leaving her husband and children for weeks
at a time. The journey tested Carol's physical and mental strength,
determination and her integrity, to say nothing of her
understanding of maps, walking gear and survival skills. The
experience proved rewarding and life changing. In over 1200 miles
of plodding the lanes and tracks of the UK she met many fascinating
people, whose kindness and generosity helped to make the task
enjoyable. There were glimpses of rare wildlife, breathtaking
scenery and several ordeals at the hands of wind, weather and
water. In Search of Me is Carol's heart warming story, illustrated
by many evocative photographs of her experience.
'Whether these mountains are climbed or not, smaller expeditions
are a step in the right direction.' It's 1938, the British have
thrown everything they've got at Everest but they've still not
reached the summit. War in Europe seems inevitable; the Empire is
shrinking. Still reeling from failure in 1936, the British are
granted one more permit by the Tibetans, one more chance to climb
the mountain. Only limited resources are available, so can a small
team be assembled and succeed where larger teams have failed? H.W.
Tilman is the obvious choice to lead a select team made up of some
of the greatest British mountaineers history has ever known,
including Eric Shipton, Frank Smythe and Noel Odell. Indeed, Tilman
favours this lightweight approach. He carries oxygen but doesn't
trust it or think it ethical to use it himself, and refuses to take
luxuries on the expedition, although he does regret leaving a case
of champagne behind for most of his time on the mountain. On the
mountain, the team is cold, the weather very wintery. It is with
amazing fortitude that they establish a camp six at all, thanks in
part to a Sherpa going by the family name of Tensing. Tilman
carries to the high camp, but exhausted he retreats, leaving Smythe
and Shipton to settle in for the night. He records in his diary,
'Frank and Eric going well-think they may do it.' But the monsoon
is fast approaching ...In Mount Everest 1938, first published in
1948, Tilman writes that it is difficult to give the layman much
idea of the actual difficulties of the last 2,000 feet of Everest.
He returns to the high camp and, in exceptional style, they try for
the ridge, the route to the summit and those immense difficulties
of the few remaining feet.
"Zambesi" tells the story of David Livingstone's Zambesi
Expedition. It exposes the rivalry among some of Victorian
Britain's leading establishment figures and institutions -
including the Foreign Office, the Royal Society, Royal Geographical
Society, British Museum, Kew Gardens and the Admiralty - as
abolitionists, scientists, and entrepreneurs sought to promote and
protect their differing interests. Making use of letters, documents
and materials neglected by previous writers and researchers, the
author reveals how tensions arose from the very beginning between
those in pursuit of knowledge for its own sake and the proponents
of the civilizing missions who saw scientific knowledge as the
utilitarian means to a social end. The result is an exciting story
involving one of England's most feted Victorian heroes that offers
important new insights in the practice and politics of
expeditionary science in Victorian England. This is the definitive
account of the expedition to date.
One hundred and fifty years ago travelling with a camera was both a
novelty and an enormous challenge. The intrepid photographers who
took their cameras to remote corners of the world brought back
images which amazed their peers. Photographer and historian John
Hannavy has recreated some of their epic journeys - travelling to
Scotland along the route followed by William Henry Fox Talbot in
1844; recreating Charles Kinnear and Thomas Melville Raven's 1857
journeys to France; exploring the Nile from Cairo to Abu Simbel
along the route Francis Frith followed between 1856 and 1859;
travelling through Russia and the Ukraine as Roger Fenton did in
1852 and 1855; across India from Calcutta to Simla following Samuel
Bourne's 1863 account of his travels; and exploring China and
Cyprus as John Thomson did between 1863 and 1878.This beautifully
illustrated book contrasts the Victorian world with our own, and
looks at how our view of the world has changed in the intevening
years. It chronicles the developments which have taken place in
travel, architecture, culture, and of course photography itself.
"An extraordinary tale of derring-do told in a mesmerising new book
via fascinating archive pictures - and worthy of a Hollywood movie
too." - Daily Mail In the late 19th century, the Norwegian Artic
explorer Fridtjof Nansen undertook a pioneering expedition: he
wanted to reach the North Pole with the specially designed ship
Fram. The Nansen Photographs recounts this expedition, from the
launch in 1890 through to the end of Nansen's international lecture
tour in 1897, using original photographs alongside personal diary
entries from Nansen and seven of his crew members. Together, they
illustrate in a poignant and sometimes disconcerting way how the
expedition members went about their daily lives and conducted their
research, the conflicts they faced, and how they ultimately brought
their daring undertaking to its successful conclusion. This book
brings new life to previously known facts and introduces the reader
to hundreds of previously unknown photographs from the expedition.
The large format of the book brings the smaller details in the
photographs to the forefront, providing new insight into the work
and life on board, the equipment and the clothing. Opposing diary
entries from Nansen and the men about the same situations show that
life on board was not always easy and tell a gripping story of
survival and the human condition. Nansen's lack of empathy and
practical skills caused frustration among the men, and several of
them resorted to fists to sort out their differences, but
nonetheless they all pulled through and set a new standard for
arctic expeditions to come. When Nansen leaves the ship for his
legendary 18 month journey with Hjalmar Johansen towards the North
Pole, we follow both Nansen and Johansen and the crew left on board
through their photographs and diaries. The return to Norway and the
spectacular celebration is told in detail through photographs,
newspaper reports, speeches, menus and ephemera. This stunning
712-page book comes with an illustrated dustjacket and contains 850
photographs and illustrations, 35 ship drawings and 25 maps.
An engrossing narrative of one man's struggle to achieve his dream
against all odds, this is both a fast-paced adventure and a telling
commentary on how heroes are often made despite the system they
operate in, by dint of sheer perseverance and commitment to a
chosen path. Above all, it's a paean to the power of self-belief
that serves to inspire, motivate and exhilarate. On 19 May 2010, as
he sailed INSV Mhadei into Mumbai harbour, Commander Dilip Donde
earned his place in India's maritime history by becoming the first
Indian to complete a solo circumnavigation under sail, south of the
3 Great Capes. The feat, successfully completed by just over 200
people in the world, had never been attempted in his country
before. In his own words, the book chronicles his progress over
four years, from building a suitable boat with an Indian
boat-builder; weaving his way through the 'sea-blind' and often
quixotic bureaucracy; and training himself with no precedent or
knowledge base in the country, to finally sailing solo around the
world. During this gruelling task he was mentored by Sir Robin
Knox-Johnston, the first man to sail solo non-stop around the
world.
Z. A. Mudge (1813 88) was an American pastor, author and Arctic
exploration enthusiast. After the success of his popular books
North Pole Voyages and Arctic Heroes, he wrote this book on the
Western Union Telegraph Expedition. In the mid-nineteenth century
the Western Union Telegraph Company decided to create a telegraph
line that would run from San Francisco, California to Moscow,
Russia. The line was to run through Alaska and Siberia, and
although the project was abandoned in 1867, a large amount of
Arctic exploration had been achieved in the meantime. This book,
first published in 1880, is Mudge's compilation of the accounts of
some of the explorers who were involved in different stages of the
expedition, including the naturalist W. H. Dall during his
exploration in Alaska. Mudge goes on to include the Siberian
experiences of George Kennan and W. H. Bush (whose own account is
also reissued in this series).
The publications of the Hakluyt Society (founded in 1846) made
available edited (and sometimes translated) early accounts of
exploration. The first series, which ran from 1847 to 1899,
consists of 100 books containing published or previously
unpublished works by authors from Christopher Columbus to Sir
Francis Drake, and covering voyages to the New World, to China and
Japan, to Russia and to Africa and India. This 1859 volume contains
three accounts of the Amazon region, all translated from the
Spanish and covering the century 1539-1639: The Expedition of
Gonzalo Pizarro to the Land of Cinnamon; The Voyage of Francisco de
Orellana down the River of the Amazons; and the New Discovery of
the Great River of the Amazons, by Cristoval de Acuna. An editorial
introduction provides a context for the narratives, and an appendix
lists the principal tribes of the Amazon, and the sources of this
information.
In this book, first published in 1862, Edward Bean Underhill gives
an engaging account of a journey to the West Indies on behalf of
the Baptist Missionary Society. He visited Baptist churches in
Trinidad, Haiti, Jamaica, Cuba and the Bahamas in order to evaluate
the religious state of the many congregations that were established
there after the Emancipation Act. Underhill emphasizes that the
religious and social consequences of the Emancipation for the
people of the West Indies cannot be viewed independently of one
another. He finds that the islands, on their own terms, have made
the best possible use of the freedom obtained. Underhill gives an
elaborate and vivid description of his impression of the islands,
but his main focus is on Jamaica, which he finds has benefited most
of all.
Two lectures given by the medical missionary and explorer David
Livingstone after his return to England from his travels in Africa
(1841-1856) form the core of this book, which was originally
published in 1858, the year when Livingstone set off on the British
Zambezi expedition. The book also contains a biography, a letter
from Adam Sedgwick (then Professor of Geology at Cambridge), and a
thorough appendix covering the scientific results of the journey,
describing the geography, mineralogy, diseases, and the language
and cultural aspects of the peoples Livingstone encountered.
Finally, Livingstone reports on the needs and prospects for further
missionary work in Africa. Although Livingstone himself felt his
calling was now to pursue purely scientific exploration, he hoped
that the lectures and their subsequent publication would encourage
other missionaries to continue his work of evangelisation.
In the winter of 1739, Georg Steller received word from Empress
Anna of Russia that he was to embark on a secret expedition to the
far reaches of Siberia as a member of the Great Northern
Expedition. While searching for economic possibilities and
strategic advantages, Steller was to send back descriptions of
everything he saw. The Empress's instructions were detailed, from
requests for a preserved whale brain to observing the child-rearing
customs of local peoples, and Steller met the task with dedication,
bravery, and a good measure of humor. In the name of science,
Steller and his comrades confronted horse-swallowing bogs, leaped
across ice floes, and survived countless close calls in their
exploration of an unforgiving environment. Not stopping at lists of
fishes, birds, and mammals, Steller also details the villages and
the lives of those living there, from vice-governors to
prostitutes. His writings rail against government corruption and
the misuse of power while describing with empathy the lives of the
poor and forgotten, with special attention toward Native peoples.
What emerges is a remarkable window into life—both human and
animal—in 18th century Siberia. Due to the secret nature of the
expedition, Steller's findings were hidden in Russian archives for
centuries, but the near-daily entries he recorded on journeys from
the town of Irkutsk to Kamchatka are presented here in English for
the first time.
How does the human mind transform space into place, or land into
landscape? For more than three decades, William L. Fox has looked
at empty landscapes and the role of the arts to investigate the way
humans make sense of space. In Terra Antarctica, Fox continues this
line of inquiry as he travels to the Antarctic, the “largest and
most extreme desert on earth.†This contemporary travel narrative
interweaves artistic, cartographic, and scientific images with
anecdotes from the author's three-month journey in the Antarctic to
create an absorbing and readable narrative of the remote continent.
Through its images, history, and firsthand experiences—snowmobile
trips through whiteouts and his icy solo hikes past the edge of the
mapped world—Fox brings to life a place that few have seen and
offers us a look into both the nature of landscape and ourselves.
The story of the 1882 Palmer Sinai Expedition, a spying and
terrorist mission that ended in the murder of its participants and
was one of the great cause celebre of the nineteenth century. Just
before sunset on August 8th 1882 HMS Cockatrice, a small paddle
wheel gunboat, appeared off the Egyptian shore. A rowing boat was
lowered down its side and slowly moved towards the beach. On its
arrival, six men and a teenage boy alighted. Three of the group
were British, all dressed as Arabs, two were Bedouin tribesmen, one
a Jew and one a Syrian. The following morning, this mismatched
party set off for the desert, taking with them two boxes of
dynamite and GBP3,000 in gold coin. Five of them were never seen
again. An historical 'who-done-it', an adventure story, a history
of the Anglo-Egyptian War and a biography of those involved in the
controversy, /These Chivalrous Brothers/ explores the gulf between
the Imperial ideal and reality and provides an insight into the
character of the men who built the Empire. Through the biographies,
it also throws light on such disparate topics as the early history
of spying, spiritualism, female hysteria, biblical archaeology,
various African uprisings, the Boer War and the hunt for 'Jack the
Ripper'.
Changing the narrative of mountaineering books, Sherpa focuses on
the people who live and work on the roof of the world. Amid all the
foreign adventurers that throng to Nepal to scale the world's
highest peaks there exists a small community of mountain people at
the foothills of Himalayas. Sherpa tells their story. It's the
story of endeavour and survival at the roof of the world. It dives
into their culture and tells of their existence at the edge of life
and death. Written by Ankit Babu Adhikari - a writer, social
science researcher and musician - and Pradeep Bashyal - a
journalist with the BBC based in Nepal - Sherpa traces their story
pre- and post-mountaineering revolution, their evolution as
climbing crusaders with previously unpublished stories from the
most notable and incredible Sherpas of the last 50 years. This is
the story of the Sherpas.
The Trans-Antarctic Expedition of 1953-58 organised and led by Sir
Vivian Fuchs and supported by Sir Edmund Hillary was one of the
most extraordinary exploits ever undertaken in Antarctica - but it
has been underappreciated. On the sixtieth anniversary of the
crossing, this book tells the complete story of this remarkable
episode in the history of exploration. The Crossing is illustrated
with photographs from the Royal Geographical Society, with the kind
permission of Mary Lowe, widow of expedition photographer George
Lowe, and from Peter and Sarah Hillary and the Auckland War
Memorial Museum. Sir Ernest Shackleton had tried unsuccessfully to
cross the Antarctic in 1914. He called it the Last Great Journey,
but he and his men escaped by the skin of their teeth. The new
post-war expedition was therefore, with knowledge of what had gone
before, a brave attempt to conquer the vast frozen continent. For
this historic endeavour, planning had to be done at opposite ends
of the Earth, in the UK and New Zealand, and members of the
expedition were drawn from the Commonwealth. The plan was
meticulous but flawed, and the stakes were high: national,
political and scientific interests all depended on its success.
John Knight's account shows how the expedition was organised, from
the scientific insight it relied on, to the voyage to Antarctica
and the choice of the largely mechanised transport intended to
carry the men across the ice desert - though the courageous dog
teams would be crucial as pathfinders. Survival at times was touch
and go, and controversies arose amid the pressure of the journey.
This book not only provides a technical insight into a
ground-breaking venture but touches on the human aspects of the
challenge. Crucially, did Ed Hillary exceed his remit by pushing on
south, when his specific instructions were to establish depots for
'Bunny' Fuchs's journey, not to engage in a 'Second Race to the
Pole'? The Crossing charts a unique event in postwar history.
Tom is an Asian puppy, destined to be dinner. Instead, an Irish
couple rescue him from a street vendor and take him into their
care. Together they embark on a whirlwind tour through Vietnam,
Nepal and Cambodia, thwarting street dogs and customs officials
along the way. But can the three of them truly become a family?
In 1953, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit of
Mount Everest. They climbed from the south, from Nepal, via the
Khumbu Glacier - a route first pioneered in 1951 by a
reconnaissance expedition led by Eric Shipton. Everest 1951 is the
account of this expedition. It was the first to approach the
mountain from the south side, it pioneered a route through the
Khumbu icefall and it was the expedition on which Hillary set foot
on Everest for the first time. Everest 1951 is a short but vitally
important read for anybody with any interest in mountaineering or
in Everest. The 1951 Everest Expedition marked the public highpoint
of Shipton's mountaineering fame. Key information was discovered
and the foundations laid for future success. Despite this,
Shipton's critics felt he had a 'lack of trust' and thus failed to
match the urgent mood of the period. Despite having been on more
Everest expeditions than any man alive, he was 'eased' out of the
crucial leadership role in 1953 and so missed the huge public
acclaim given to Hillary, Tenzing Norgay and John Hunt after their
historic success.
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