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Books > Arts & Architecture > Industrial / commercial art & design > Individual designers
A wildly entertaining biography of the British fashion designer who set the trends for rock royalty from the Beatles to Mick Jagger to Elton John. Tommy Nutter was a visionary tailor in the bespoke tradition who dressed everybody from Lord Montagu of Beaulieu to Twiggy, who outfitteds three of the Beatles for the cover of Abbey Road (George Harrison preferred jeans), who put Mick Jagger in a white suit for his wedding to Bianca and who dressed Elton John for years, using the singer as his muse for his signature outrageous style. Nutter was alluring for his ambiguity -- a chameleon who could rub shoulders with Princess Margaret and then dance with the drag queens at Last Resort -- and his clothes were the physical expression of a sharp, audacious wit. House of Nutter charts Tommy Nutter's dramatic career that spanned barely 23 years, ending in 1992 with his untimely death. It is a history of London during an era of economic and cultural upheaval, a celebration of the methods and traditions of Savile Row; and an elegy for what was lost during the worst days of the HIV/AIDS epidemic. With archival access to photos, letters and interviews from Tommy Nutter's sole living relative, his brother, David, Lance Richardson takes us behind the '70s glamour to explore the public face and private life of one of Britain's most respected yet rule-breaking bespoke clothiers and the celebrities he dressed.
Burroughs brings an especially wide range of explanatory models-from social history, cultural anthropology, iconology and semiotics-to bear in his analysis of urban reform and the shifts in architectural design that emerged in early Renaissance Rome. Applying the latest practices from critical theory and discourse to the built environment of early Renaissance Rome, Charles Burroughs sees the city as a field of visual communication and rhetoric. He explores the symbolic dimension of the cultural landscape and the operation of architectural and other visual signs in the urban environment. The result is a profound reconceiving of the implications for the study of Renaissance Rome of the notion of the city as "text." Central to Burrough's project is the articulation of a model of cultural mediation and production that is distinct from the standard notion of patronage as a unilateral transaction. On one level From Signs to Design focuses on the production of social meaning in and through environmental process during the pontificate of Nicholas V, celebrated for his intimate links to the new culture of humanism and as an archetypal patron of the arts and literature. On another, it is an elucidation of the origins and the ideological impact of architectural and urbanistic motifs and conceptions of spatial order that were central to the Western tradition of monumental city planning. Burroughs brings an especially wide range of explanatory models-from social history, cultural anthropology, iconology and semiotics-to bear in his analysis of urban reform and the shifts in architectural design that emerged in early Renaissance Rome. He focuses in particular on the material basis and context of these shifts, which he studies through the examination of contrasting neighborhoods, social milieus, and institutions, as well as of individuals prominently involved with important building projects or with the general maintenance and improvement of urban facilities and infrastructure. Burroughs provides a concrete and differentiated picture of the intersection of papal/ecclesiastical and local interest and initiatives, placing this within the context of marked political changes. And he devotes extensive discussions to the artistic expression of papal agendas and concerns in Nicholas's private chapel and in Alberti's Tempio Malatestiano. Contents Urban Pattern and Symbolic Landscapes * Interior Architectures: Discordance and Resolution in the Frescoes of Nicholas's Private Chapel * Far and Near Perspectives: Urban Ordering and Neighborhood Change in Nicholan Rome * Middlemen: Lines of Contact, Mutual Advantage, and Command * The Other Rome: Sacrality and Ideology in the Holy Quarter * Mirror and Frame: The Surrounding Region and the Long Road * Epilogue: The River, the Book, and the Basilica
This is the first comprehensive presentation of the Danish furniture designer Jakob Berg (1958-2008) and his work. As a designer, he was ahead of his time and not only continued the story of the golden age of Danish Design but, building on this legacy, fundamentally rethought the approach to seating and rest, sustainability, and the role of different wood types. Today, his furniture designs, which have enhanced home interiors around the world, are as current and relevant as ever. The reader is invited on a panoramic tour of Jakob Berg's wonderful furniture universe, from his early one-offs, presented in art and design exhibitions during the 1980s, to his indoor/outdoor furniture and his many projects around the world. The publication is authored by leading Danish design experts and lavishly illustrated throughout, with 300 photos, as well as drawings and digital sketches. In addition to portraying Jakob Berg's inspiring body of work, the book is in itself a piece of Danish Design - a unique experience that is not to be missed. Text in Danish.
Pierre Guariche (1926-1995) was a leading interior architect, furniture, and lighting designer in postwar France. He created a prolific body of work during what is known as the Thirty Glorious Years (1945-1975), a period of economic prosperity and high growth in France. He was an early adopter of industrial materials and production techniques that emerged during the 1950s, and is known for his remarkable lighting fixtures and simple, elegant furniture designs that could be manufactured on a large scale. He worked with innovative companies like Airborne, Steiner, and Pierre Disderot; he co-founded a design collective (Atelier de Recherche Plastique- ARP); and was the artistic director for the Meurop furniture company in Belgium. In advance of Charlotte Perriand in Les Arcs and Marcel Breuer in Flaine, he worked with the architect Michel Bezançon on the creation of La Plagne, the first comprehensive winter sports resort in France. Making use of unpublished archives, this book looks back on a rich itinerary of over 200 interior architecture and design projects, almost as many pieces of furniture, and a series of remarkable lighting fixtures (reissued today by Sammode) which shed light on the modernity and timeless elegance of this remarkable creator. Text in English and French.
In Chanel: An Intimate Life, acclaimed biographer Lisa Chaney tells the controversial story of the fashion icon who starred in her tumultuous era Coco Chanel was many things to many people. Raised in emotional and financial poverty, she became one of the defining figures of the twentieth century. She was mistress to aristocrats, artists and spies. She broke rules of style and decorum, seducing both men and women, yet in her work expected the highest standards. She took a 'plaything' and turned it into a global industry which defined the modern woman. Filled with new insights and thrilling discoveries, Lisa Chaney's Chanel provides the most defining and provocative portrait yet. 'Chaney's research is laudable, uncovering fresh details of Chanel's well-trodden rag trade to riches story' Evening Standard 'An unflinching examination of the historically inscrutable designer' Vogue Lisa Chaney has lectured and tutored in the history of art and literature, made TV and radio broadcasts on the history of culture, and reviewed and written for journals and newspapers, including The SundayTimes, the Spectator and the Guardian. She is the author of two previous biographies: Elizabeth David and Hide-and-Seek With Angels: The Life of J.M. Barrie.
Pravoslav Sovak (*1926) is one of the most important graphic artists of our time. With his drawing skills and delight in technical experimentation he focuses his critical attention on society and institutions. Sometimes he lets us immerse ourselves in travel and landscape impressions. A reading book and catalogue raisonne in one, this volume traces Sovak's multi-layered oeuvre since 1994. The artist from Bohemia is a path-blazer for Postmodernism and an unparalleled master of graphic techniques. With virtuoso skill he combines complex processes from etching to the rarely used helioogravure. With his finely balanced nuances he allows virtually every print to become an original. Sovak's pictorial themes, from the sterility of the media society or the elemental experience of nature in the wilderness to an autobiographical collage, entrance viewers with a crystalline precision of design. Clear, almost minimalistic structures, networks and grid lines predominate, convincing the viewer with their fine obfuscation and powerful objectivity.
The definitive memoir of a timeless fashion icon, Tommy Hilfiger’s American Dreamer chronicles the designer’s formative years, his meteoric rise in the fashion industry, his embrace of music and pop and youth culture, and the setbacks, triumphs, and sheer determination that drove him to build a multibillion dollar global lifestyle brand.
Tools for navigating today's hyper-connected, rapidly changing, and radically contingent white water world. Design Unbound presents a new tool set for having agency in the twenty-first century, in what the authors characterize as a white water world-rapidly changing, hyperconnected, and radically contingent. These are the tools of a new kind of practice that is the offspring of complexity science, which gives us a new lens through which to view the world as entangled and emerging, and architecture, which is about designing contexts. In such a practice, design, unbound from its material thingness, is set free to design contexts as complex systems. In a world where causality is systemic, entangled, in flux, and often elusive, we cannot design for absolute outcomes. Instead, we need to design for emergence. Design Unbound not only makes this case through theory but also presents a set of tools to do so. With case studies that range from a new kind of university to organizational, and even societal, transformation, Design Unbound draws from a vast array of domains: architecture, science and technology, philosophy, cinema, music, literature and poetry, even the military. It is presented in five books, bound as two volumes. Different books within the larger system of books will resonate with different reading audiences, from architects to people reconceiving higher education to the public policy or defense and intelligence communities. The authors provide different entry points allowing readers to navigate their own pathways through the system of books.
The tubular steel design of furniture designer Marcel Breuer (1902–1981) is considered an outstanding design style of the 20th-century. Yet widely unknown is the development of the first tubular steel prototype to its early series production. Breuer’s fellow compatriot Kálmán Lengyel (1900–1945), to whom this comprehensive publication is dedicated, played a significant role in this. In 1927, they founded the company Standard Möbel together, in order to organise the series production and distribution of tubular steel furniture. The development of the company and the work of Breuer, Lengyel, and the later director Anton Lorenz are depicted here in-depth with previously unpublished archive material. As a prominent furniture designer and architect, Lengyel also founded his own furniture brand, Ka-Le-Möbel, and worked as an interior designer in Paris, as well as constructed buildings in Berlin, Szeged, and Budapest. This publication expands our knowledge about the early models and highlights the life and work of the protagonists of the tubular steel revolution! Text in German.
Joe Colombo (Milan, 1930-1971) was one of the greatest designers of the last century, visionary and ingenious, capable of giving shape to ideas that retain a striking relevance to this day. Trained first at the Brera Academy and then at the Polytechnic of Milan, Joe Colombo has expressed, in just 20 years of work, an absolutely innovative world view, placing man and his life at the centre of reflection, imagined a dynamic and transformable habitat both on a domestic and urban scale. A design in the round, aimed at satisfying every need - also thanks to technology and new materials - and to shape the space and its objects according to the different activities of the moment, be they working or social interactions. From here, the modular and dynamic furnishing accessories with futuristic lines, among which some pieces that have become iconic of Italian design stand out such as the Tube Chair, the Spider lamp (Compasso d'Oro 1967) or the Boby trolley (now at the MoMA in New York), the "monoblocks", such as the Mini-Kitchen or the Total Table with integrated dishes, up to the global housing unit, a visionary "machine", which encompasses all the needs of living. This volume constitutes the first catalogue raisonne of his work, of which about 180 projects are documented, divided between works still in production and historical works; introduced by the essays by Ignazia Favata - his historical collaborator - and Domitilla Dardi, it is completed by a critical anthology. Text in English and Italian.
"This gorgeous doorstop of a book ... Seductive and serious - for the most discerning coffee tables." - Edwin Heathcote, Financial Times. Sigurd Lewerentz (1885-1975) is one of the most highly revered - and also one of the most heavily mythologised - protagonists of modern European architecture. Arguably Sweden's most distinguished modernist, he is more influential to other architects internationally today than he has been during his lifetime. Countless architecture lovers from around the world visit his still existent buildings. Stockholm's woodland cemetery Skogskyrkogarden, his most significant contribution to landscape design, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. This authoritative new monograph on Sigurd Lewerentz is based on extensive research undertaken at ArkDes, Sweden's national centre for architecture and design, where his archive and personal library are being kept. It features a wealth of drawings and sketches, designs for furniture and interiors, model photographs etc. from his estate, most of which published here for the first time, as well as with newly taken photographs of his realised buildings. Essays by leading experts explore Lewerentz's life and work, his legacy and lasting significance from today's perspective. This vast, beautifully designed book offers the most comprehensive survey to date of Lewerentz's entire achievements in all fields of his manifold work.
In 1946, Abram Games left the War Office armed with this testimonial: 'His work had to be subtly persuasive, or directly "propagandist" - but it was always effective, compelling, and of outstanding quality.' During the Second World War, Captain Games, holder of the unique title of 'Official War Poster Artist', designed a hundred posters for army use. The Ministry of Information adapted several designs for civilians. There is a tale to tell about many of these images, especially about his infamous but most successful ATS Blonde Bombshell recruiting poster. Being the son of a photographer, Games employed many ingenious photographic tricks to convey his message of 'Maximum Meaning, Minimum Means' in his designs. Most books on Graphic Design have included images by Abram Games. This is the only book published that concentrates solely on Games's war work. The Estate of Abram Games holds his large archive, which includes a memo from Churchill, personal correspondence, press cuttings, sketches, paintings, and maps for the Army Bureau of Current Affairs, and photographs from Games's seven years in army service.
Hin Bredendieck (1904-1995) graduated from the Bauhaus and was a versatile designer and pioneering teacher of design. His outstanding oeuvre and his worldwide network testify to the international significance of his work and ideas. This lavishly illustrated, high-qualitymonograph introduces in detail the life and work of Hin Bredendieck. Hin Bredendieck's life and work are an example of success, emigration and the international propagation of the design ideas developed at the Bauhaus. A native of Aurich in East Friesland, he was a student at the Bauhaus in Dessau from 1927 to 1930. In 1937 he emigrated to the United States, where he was appointed as a teacher at the New Bauhaus Chicago. As the founding director of the Institute for Industrial Design at the Georgia Institute of Technology in Atlanta, he became one of the most influential mediators of Bauhaus ideas in America in the post-war years.
C.F.A. Voysey (1857-1941) was an architect-designer who advocated honest and thorough design, and championed high standards of craftsmanship applied only to the finest materials. The resulting objects-simple yet elegant, often enhanced by beautiful and symbolic decoration-were considered revolutionary in their time and continue to enchant audiences today. The first substantial monograph to be published in 20 years, this comprehensive book focuses on Voysey as a designer of furniture, metalwork and textiles, providing a new analysis of his characteristic motifs and designs. It draws on the greatest public and private collections of his work to give a complete and fully illustrated account of Voysey's output and his vision for domestic life at the turn of the twentieth century. Original drawings and plans, archive photography and images of a vast selection of surviving objects are brought together here in a fresh examination of the Arts and Crafts pioneer. The authors' extensive new research documents the personal and professional relationships that enabled Voysey to become a great and prolific designer. The book draws together new information on how he ran his business; how he promoted, exhibited and sold his work; who his clients were; who was responsible for manufacturing his designs; and what a Voysey house and interior looked like.
Features work by an impressive list of international female designers. Besides the internationally famous names, it also considers the women behind the scenes of many fashion houses, whose far-reaching influence is something that has been completely overlooked in fashion history. Published to accompany an exhibition at Gemeentemuseum Den Haag, The Hague. 'The little seamstress' is how the renowned Coco Chanel was once disdainfully described by her contemporary Paul Poiret. He targeted her because she was a woman, but in fact he saw her as a major competitor. Times have changed. More fashion houses are now run by women than ever before. A perfect moment, therefore, for an overview that focuses on strong women in fashion. Femmes Fatales tells fashion history from the perspective of femail designers. Do they design differently for women than their male counterparts? What influence have they had? What does being a woman mean in terms of their creations? And what is their vision for fashion? This book includes work by Coco Chanel, Jeanne Lanvin, Elsa Schiaparelli, Mary Quant, Vivienne Westwood, Sonia Rykiel, Zandra Rhodes, Miuccia Prada, Maria Grazia Chiuri (Dior), Fong Leng, Sheila de Vries and Iris van Herpen, and many others. Text in Dutch and English.
Swiss graphic designer Lea Michel has chosen for her book the single most often impersonated figure in Western movie history: The President of the United States. Taking 164 fictitious presidents, male and female (for the first time in Curtis Bernhard's comedy Kisses for my President of 1964), it charts the range of actions of the world's formerly most powerful person - making statements or giving speeches, standing in front of or sitting behind the desk at the Oval Office, climbing out of or into limousines, wearing dressing gowns. Six presidential typologies - Father and Husband, Villain, Alien, Clown, Hero, Lover - sorted by 241 sub-categories, such as Shaking Hands, Looking Shocked at a Screen, or In a Video Conference with a Terrorist. Taken from films and TV and online series, such as Dr. Strangelove, Independence Day, or House of Cards, as well as from many lesser known productions, they also highlight the intense relationship between fiction and reality in a time where the incumbent president exploits all media to an unprecedented extent to market himself and to increase his popularity.
Frankie Welch (1924-2021) combined a creative mind and an entrepreneurial spirit to establish herself as a leading American textile, accessories, and fashion designer in a career that spanned four decades, from the 1960s through the 1990s. This lavishly illustrated book provides a lively account of her life and career, tracing her rise from the small town of Rome, Georgia, to her role as a doyenne of fashion in the Washington, D.C., area. Featuring her scarf and fashion designs for the 1968 presidential campaigns, the history of her influential dress shop in Alexandria, Virginia, her connections to first ladies and other D.C. tastemakers, and her exuberant embrace of Americana during the U.S. Bicentennial, this history weaves Welch's personal biography into the literal fabric of our country. Frankie Welch's Americana discusses significant designs and their creation, use, and influence in detail, while highlighting how Welch embraced and promoted her role as an entrepreneur, building a niche business that capitalized on her location near Washington and her political connections. Welch was most widely known for her custom scarves, and each design offers an opportunity for readers to view the nation's recent past through the informative lens of women's fashion. Welch designed thousands of scarves for many clients, including Betty Ford, Furman University, McDonald's, the National Press Club, the Hubert Humphrey presidential campaign, the Smithsonian Institution, and the Garden Club of Georgia. Concise and well researched, Frankie Welch's Americana is the first book to document the ambition and accomplishments of one of the South's most prominent fashion authorities of the second half of the twentieth century.
This volume presents for the first time in English a curated selection of writings by the design thinker Gui Bonsiepe from the 1960s to the present day. Addressing as it does questions of non-Western design and a design practice that is both radical and democratic, Bonsiepe's work has assumed new importance for current debates inspired by global political and environmental crises. Structured into three sections, the anthology first addresses Bonsiepe's work on design theory and practice, particularly in relation to the history and contemporary relevance of the Ulm design school, where Bonsiepe was a professor in the 1960s. A second section then represents Bonsiepe's writings after his move to South America in the 1960s and '70s, where he worked as a design consultant for the Allende government in Chile before the military takeover. In writings from the period, Bonsiepe explores the concept of design 'at the periphery' and the relationship of national design traditions and practices in Latin American countries to those of 'the core' - Western European and American design. The final section comprises selections of Bonsiepe's writings on design in relation to literacy and language, visuality and cognition. This indispensable volume includes new interviews with Bonsiepe as well as his original, previously unpublished texts.
"When I am working with colours, I feel like a painter. When I am working with metal, I feel like a constructor. And when I am working with toys, I feel like a child." (Felieke van der Leest). The work of Dutch jewellery and object artist Felieke van der Leest (born in 1968) expresses the very special affection that she has for animals. With unbridled fantasy she creates pieces that ostentatiously, colourfully and playfully revolve around her little friends. She combines techniques used in textile work, such as crochet, with valuable metals and plastic toy animals. Within the international art jewellery scene she has developed her own special language with which she narrates intelligent and witty stories with her animal protagonists; her pieces inevitably conjure a smile upon the faces of those who view them. Characteristic for Van der Leest is the joy in her work, which is ever present yet sometimes carried off into childhood. Serious themes in her work are also expressed, including environmental protection and human approaches to animals. The current publication comprises jewellery and objects by the renowned artist from 1996 to the present.
Wilhelm Deffke (1887-1950), established the first modern advertising agency in Germany in 1915. Together with his business partner he published an influential book on trademarks and makers' marks, in which they promoted the logo as a basis for all the company's advertising materials. Before his death in 1950, Deffke created more than 10,000 logos that were untypically functional and abstract for their time. Considered one of the pioneers of modern corporate design, he is known as the "Father of the Modern Logo" among design professionals internationally; yet only a fraction of his designs have ever been shown in public. This richly illustrated and comprehensive monograph is the first book to be published about his work as commercial artist, architect, poster and book designer. Fourteen essays present the wide-ranging aspects of Deffke's work in context with 20th-century European design history. More than 500 images, many of them previously unpublished, illustrate his achievements in poster and commercial art. This collection is a long overdue commentary and re-discovery, of an exceptional artistic personality.
Touch Wood is the accompanying book to the exhibition of the same name, which ran from 17th-20th October 2019 at Dray Walk Gallery in London. The show is aiming to raise money to protect threatened habitats, restore tropical forests and reduce our carbon footprint. Proceeds from the show and book will be donated to the World Land Trust, patroned by Sir David Attenborough. Born out of a deep love for nature, the project, imagined and curated by Thomas Danthony and Clare Mabin, showcases a community of artists, designers and illustrators who have been asked to express what nature means to them by contributing an original piece of art, created on a wooden board.
A new edition of the only major monograph published on Alaia (1935 2017), which has been out of print for over a decade. Alaia was renowned for highly intricate form fitting couture with a sculptural quality. There will be strong interest for the book from both fashion lovers and students of fashion. Will appeal to buyers of Lanvin, Dior Couture, and Gucci.
The narrative of the Foale and Tuffin story perfectly traces the decade from its groovy, optimistic beginnings, when the two embryonic fashion designers blithely set up shop in 1961, to its crash-and-burn finale, as Sixties sanguinity melted away into a hangover of Seventies cynicism, masked as it was with the distraction of fancy-dress escapism. Marion Foale and Sally Tuffin were two bolshy girls who just did it. After meeting at Walthamstow Art School in 1955 and then studying together at the Royal College of Art, they embarked on a trailblazing career in fashion. Quirky, youthful creativity, acute sensitivity to the latest moods and trends, expert craftsmanship, and a little Swinging Sixties good fortune placed them at the hub of the cultural explosion in London that defined the era. Their boutique off Carnaby Street was at the epicenter of the new fashion scene. Suddenly, David Bailey was photographing their outfits for Vogue, Cathy MacGowan was wearing them on Ready, Steady, Go , and the girls were jetting around America as part of the ground-breaking Youthquake tour. Through detailed interviews with Foale and Tuffin themselves, exclusive access to their personal archives, and contributions from an extraordinary array of figures from the fashion, art and cultural scenes of the 1960s, 70s and beyond, Iain R. Webb builds a fascinating picture of the time, throwing new light on how fashion and business underwent a period of unprecedented change. It was a period of cross-pollination in art, music and fashion, of entrepreneurial and cultural innovation. Contributors include Manolo Blahnik, Sir Terence Conran, Felicity Green, Barbara Hulanicki, Caterine Milinaire, Janet Street Porter, Mary Quant and Jean Shrimpton.
Norman Bel Geddes has long been considered the 'founder' of American industrial design. During his long career he worked on everything from theatre design, world fairs and cars to houses and product and packaging design. Nicolas P. Maffei's magisterial biography draws on original material from the archive at the Harry Ransom Center, University of Texas at Austin, and places Bel Geddes' work within the fast-changing cultural and intellectual contexts of his time. Maffei shows how Bel Geddes' futuristic but pragmatic style - his notion of 'practical vision' - was central to his work, and highly influential on the professional practice of American industrial design in general. |
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