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Books > Sport & Leisure > Sports & outdoor recreation > Sports training & coaching
The ability to climb cracks is at the core of a climber's craft. Crack Climbing by Pete Whittaker provides a single point of reference for all crack climbing techniques, regardless of the grade you climb. Pete is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers in the world, having made dozens of cutting-edge first ascents and hard repeats, including the first ascent of Century Crack (5.14b) in Canyonlands, Utah. In this book, Pete has drawn on years of experience to demonstrate the many different techniques and to give you an understanding of when, why and how to use them. Develop these skills with confidence and your climbing standard will improve. The book is split into easily accessible sections on techniques for different widths of cracks, including finger cracks, hand and fist cracks, offwidth cracks and chimneys. Pete looks at the basics, including the hand jam - the essential technique in any crack climber's repertoire - right through to advanced techniques such as the sidewinder and the trout tickler. Step-by-step practical information and how-tos are supplemented with tips and tricks from Pete alongside illustrations by Alex Poyzer and photographs. Additional chapters cover how to tape up, as well as essential gear and equipment. Pete has also interviewed some of the world's top crack climbers so that you can learn from the best. Gain insights from Lynn Hill, Alex Honnold, Barbara Zangerl, Peter Croft and more. Master the craft and advance your climbing. It's time to jam!
Now more than ever, there is a need for early childhood professionals to comprehensively integrate trauma-sensitive practices into their work with children and families. This essential resource offers instructional strategies teachers can use daily to support their students dealing with trauma in early learning environments. Readers will learn to create opportunities for children to use their natural language—play—to reduce their stress, to cope with adversity, to build resilience, and even to heal from trauma. Nicholson and Kurtz provide vignettes, case study examples, textboxes, photographs, and descriptions of adapted therapeutic strategies ready for implementation in the classroom. Practical and comprehensive, this book is ideal for both prospective and veteran early childhood educators seeking to understand trauma-informed practices when working with young children (birth–8) in a range of environments.
If you are a serious runner, you are well aware of the aches and pains associated with the sport. Run Healthy: The Runner’s Guide to Injury Prevention and Treatment was written to help you distinguish discomfort from injury. It provides the latest science-based and practical guidance for identifying, treating, and minimizing the most common injuries in track, road, and trail running. Gain a better understanding of how the musculoskeletal system functions and responds to training. Develop a practical and effective training plan to address the regions where injuries most often occur: feet and toes, ankles, knees, hips, and low back. Learn how a combination of targeted strength training, mobility exercises, and running drills can improve running form, economy, and performance. When injuries inevitably happen, you’ll know how to identify them, treat them, and recover from them. Get targeted recommendations for some of the most common issues runners face, such as plantar fasciitis, Achilles tendinitis, shin splints, hamstring tendinitis and tendinopathy, and IT band syndrome. Throughout, you’ll hear from 17 runners on how the techniques in this book helped them overcome their injuries and got them quickly and safely back to training and racing. You’ll also find an in-depth discussion of alternative therapies such as acupuncture, cupping, CBD, cryotherapy, and cleanses to help you separate fact from fiction and decide for yourself which, if any, of these therapies to pursue. Injuries can and do happen, but with Run Healthy you’ll be running strong for many years to come. Earn continuing education credits/units! A continuing education exam that uses this book is also available. It may be purchased separately or as part of a package that includes both the book and exam.
This book is a culmination of sustained research work on the evaluation of cricket and its management to imbibe a balance between its various formats by using data and analytics. The book has identified three primary stakeholders-administrators, players and spectators-each having their own ambitions. In order for convergence of these ambitions, it has prescribed the networked governance in place of hierarchic governance for the International Cricket Council (ICC), the cricket's apex body. This book aims at creating a balance between formats that each country should play. There is as much dearth of academic research on this topic, as there is abundance of individual viewpoints from professionals related to the game. Hence at the outset, the book has created a action points and has underlined the lack of convergence with present way of governance. This book has created a meta-metric framework for formative assessment of influence across cricket formats. In order to assess the influence of T20 on test matches and on India's performance, a comparison between pre-IPL period (1998-2007) and post-IPL period (2008-2017) by using this framework has been done.
• Essential foundational knowledge for any sport-related degree course • Accessible, with real world cases and no jargon • Draws on cutting-edge research
Many sport and performance psychologists worldwide practice cognitive behaviour therapy (CBT) as a therapeutic and applied practice approach. But no textbook currently offers a blueprint to understand and use CBT in sport and performance settings. Cognitive Behaviour Therapy in Sport and Performance: An Applied Practice Guide builds upon a tangible foundation for the practice of CBT and related techniques in sport and performance contexts. This new book presents key points to help students and practitioners bring CBT into the sport and performance context. We focus on the 'what is' and the 'how to'. Drawing upon the latest research and a wealth of applied practice experience, this easy-to-use guide takes the reader through each step of the CBT process with case examples, plain instructions, and worksheets to maximise the quality and depth necessary for effective CBT practice. As an applied guide, the book educates undergraduate and postgraduates in sport and performance psychology (and all its variants) This book is an instrumental guidance material for sport and exercise psychology students but also invaluable as a practice guide for performance psychology trainees in applied practice placements and as a refresher primer for established professionals.
The book has high potential for course adoption globally in the areas of creative arts marketing, arts management, creative industries, and marketing; Fully updated to include international case studies from throughout the world, including emerging markets, as well as tools for practical application; Offers an alternative or complimentary approach to the existing textbooks which have a more mainstream marketing management perspective; Includes contributions from leading academics in the field of arts marketing
This book is the first, and to date only book detailing how REBT is applied in sport and performance settings. This book offers theoretical and technical details, underpinned by research evidence and professional practice literature. This book offers techniques and strategies that readers can apply within their own practice. This book is the first to thoroughly bring together the REBT literature towards a systematic way to work in sport and performance settings. This book reflects the authors' accumulation of a decade of applying and researching REBT in performance settings.
The Ethics of Sport explores moral issues that arise in sports, especially competitive athletics, in a manner that is accessible not only to sports fans or participants but also to those critical of sports or simply interested in an introduction to the kind of moral issues raised by the practice of athletics. The issues considered range from the more abstract, such as the importance that should be assigned to winning in sports, to specific controversies such as arguments over the use of performance enhancing drugs, the nature of gender equity, and the evaluation of violence in competition. The book explores different sides of these issues and suggests reasonable resolutions to the kinds of ethical questions prevalent in the practice of sports.
Athletes are always aiming to be faster, better, stronger. New techniques to enhance their sporting performance have increasingly been linked to use of novel psychoactive substances (NPS) and other hard-to-detect substances like performance-enhancing drugs. This book offers a timely analysis of the new challenges posed by this phenomenon in the anti-doping community. The authors present the first comprehensive perspective on the rapidly shifting doping scenario and reflect on use, regulation, policy, and market structure of NPS used in sports. They highlight the challenges with the list of prohibited substances and methods in and out of competition. They also evaluate how methods to detect new drugs present an ongoing battle for doping control as they have to be adapted constantly. Topics covered within the chapters include: Contamination of Sports Supplements with Novel Psychoactive Substances Untested Supplement Use Among Athletes: An Overlooked Phenomenon? International Drug Control: Protecting the Health of the Athlete Analysis of New Chemical Entities in a Sport Context Emerging Drugs in Sport establishes a clear benchmark on the policy discussion, drawing from available evidence and sources, including athletes' personal experiences, to generate a fact-based resource that informs a research as well as wider audience. The book is essential reading for those working in anti-doping, substance misuse, sports, ethics, and human enhancement. It also is useful for policy-makers, legislative personnel, and other professionals with an interest in protecting clean sport. "Doping is one of the greatest threats to the integrity of sport. We must never be tempted to turn our back on the problem and hope it will disappear. The benefits and values of clean sport have never been more important to the world. That is why this book with its wide-ranging approach is so valuable." Thomas Bach, President, International Olympic Committee "Physical activity is vital to a healthy living, which is why doping is not just an assault on fair competition, but also on health. I strongly commend this book for compiling advanced knowledge on performance-enhancing drugs and promoting health through sport." Tedros Adhanom Ghebreyesus, Director-General, World Health Organization
A must-have introductory text of unrivalled coverage and depth focusing on events planning and management, the fourth edition of Events Management provides a complete A to Z of the principles and practices of planning, managing and staging events.
Stress, Well-Being, and Performance in Sport provides the first comprehensive and contemporary overview of stress in sport and its implications on performance and well-being. It explores how athletes', coaches', and support staffs' performance can be enhanced while simultaneously optimizing their well-being in contemporary sport. Divided into four sections following the stress process, Stress, Well-Being, and Performance in Sport covers key topics including: Appraising and coping with stress in sport Responses to and outcomes of stress in sport Moderators of the stress process in sport Stress management to promote thriving in sport Bringing together theory and practice, each chapter discusses conceptual and theoretical issues, current research, and innovative practical implications. Written by scholars around the globe, Stress, Well-being, and Performance in Sport offers an international perspective. It is important reading for students of sport psychology as well as coaches, athletes, and support staff.
This book summarizes the recent advancements for biomechanics of injury and prevention in mechanism, application and developing frontiers. Biomechanics plays an important role in achieving safety, health, comfort, and a high quality of life by revealing injury mechanism and providing prevention methods. The book covers injury and prevention to the entire human body, from head to toe, including injury and prevention in sports, traffic, accident, clinic and so on. In addition, bionics prevention method inspired by woodpecker is also introduced. The book provides the reader with not only the mechanism of injury but also the advanced injury diagnosis, treatment, and prevention devices based on biomechanics.
Specially designed as training resource for undergraduate and graduate students in applied sport and performance psychology as well as an array of early-career professionals. Case study collection with diverse, international authorship. Deliberate attention paid to ethical challenges and diverse populations (race, culture, gender, sexual orientation, disability, etc.) in order to challenge students to identify their own uniqueness in the world and how it impacts their attitudes, beliefs, and empathic connection to potential clients
The NFL is the most popular professional sports league in the United States. Its athletes receive multi-million dollar contracts and almost endless media attention. The league's most important game, the Super Bowl, is practically a national holiday. Making it to the NFL, however, is not about the promised land of fame and fortune. Robert Turner draws on his personal experience as a former pro and interviews with over 120 current and former NFL players to get behind the bravado and reveal what it means to be an athlete in the NFL and why so many players struggle with life after football. Without guaranteed contracts, the majority of players are forced out of the league after a few seasons. Over three-quarters of retirees experience bankruptcy or financial ruin, two-thirds live with chronic pain, and too many find themselves on the wrong side of the law. Robert Turner argues that the fall from grace of so many players is no accident. The NFL, he contends, is a total institution, powerfully determining their experiences in and out of the league. The labor agreement provides little job insecurity and few health and retirement benefits, and the owners refuse to share power with the players, making change difficult. Even more, the entire process of becoming an elite football player-from high school through the pros-leaves athletes with few marketable skills and little preparation for their first Sunday off the field. With compassion and objectivity, Not for Long reveals the life and mind of the NFL athlete and provides a guide on what reforms and policies might help players transition successfully out of the sport.
As attention and funding increases for women's team sports, so too should the understanding of the support they require to physically compete at these higher levels. Strength and Conditioning for Women in Team Sports is a dedicated guide to upskilling S&C coaches who are working with female teams. It addresses the unique requirements for women in reactive multi-directional sports and provides recommendations on creating a positive environment to succeed. The main topics covered are: preparing to integrate into a women's team; developing relationships and processes; testing and monitoring strategies; building databases and creating reports; planning sessions and implementation and finally, injury, illness and managing return to performance. Offering key insights into the plethora of variables available for achieving a certain goal, experienced S&C coach Jools Murray offers practical advice not only for session planning but also for important soft skills such as communication and team relationships.
This book addresses instruments, methodologies and diagnostic methods used to evaluate and diagnose human movement, locomotion and physical status in general. Starting from historical perspective, the idea of understanding human locomotion by applying technical measurement devices and incorporating measurement data into physical representation of gross body movement is presented and explained, an approach known as inverse dynamics. With this approach as a kind of umbrella concept, components of measurement systems including relevant signal and data processing methods are described. Modern instruments to capture body movement by measuring its kinematics, kinetics and surface electromyography (sEMG) are thus described; all systems being used dominantly-if not exclusively-in a movement analysis laboratory setting. Focusing mainly on human posture and gait, but including also examples of movement patterns from selected kinesiological and sports activities, the book attempts to present essentials of biomechanics and biomedical engineering approach to this subject matter. It illustrates how data collected and elaborated by modern engineering technology can complement traditional expert knowledge of a kinesiologist or a medical doctor. The book is applicable in the fields of sports, physical activities, as well as in medical diagnostics and rehabilitation. The examples of this book's practical application might be in evaluation of efficiency of human gait, in evaluation of skeletal muscle fatigue in physical exercise, in biomechanical diagnostics of traumatological conditions requiring orthopaedic treatment and the like. This book can also be used in planning and executing research endeavours, particularly in a clinical context as a reference for various diagnostics procedures. It presents the lecture notes of a course carrying the same name within Medical Studies in English at the University of Zagreb for more than a decade.
Written by a team of international experts and emerging talents from around the world, Sport Injury Psychology: Cultural, Relational, Methodological, and Applied Considerations challenges the status quo of the field of sport injury psychology and opens new and exciting future research trajectories by critically considering: How to evolve from an individual focused and single, scientific discipline into a cultural and relational focused and interdisciplinary discourse How to shift from the dominant positivist foundation towards a more inclusive scholarship with divergent epistemologies, theories, and methodologies How to replace the attempt to establish 'best practice' and desire for 'clean' findings with the need for continuous innovation and multifaceted applied experiences Each chapter stimulates debate and encourages theoretical, methodological, and/or applied diversification, and closes with future research directions that provide novel and rigorous programs of research that have the potential to advance the field of sport injury psychology into an interdisciplinary discourse that strives for and embraces collaboration between academic disciplines and with practitioners working in the field. Cutting edge, timely, and comprehensive, Sport Injury Psychology: Cultural, Relational, Methodological, and Applied Considerations is essential reading for undergraduate students, postgraduate students, and more established scholars in the fields of sport communication, sports medicine, sport psychology, sports sociology, and other related sport science disciplines.
This book reviews the main principles of resistance training, from basics to modern insights. It includes practical ways to develop most of the strength training methods, including monitoring and testing procedures. It merges practical tips with knowledge about the scientific background concerning program and periodization. It describes procedures for special populations, such as elderly or women.Gathering contributions by authoritative researchers and professors in the fields of sport science and biomechanics, this book provides an integrated view of strength training programming, and describes the most important biological factors associated with this type of training. The evidence-based and detailed description of each single mechanism to be trained to enhance performance is covered in depth. Thanks to its strong academic background, an being self-contained, this book offers a valuable reference guide for advanced undergraduate and graduate students in sports science, as well as an inspiring guide for sport and health researchers and professional trainers alike.
Injury Prevention and Rehabilitation in Sport examines the key factors at play in the reduction and prevention of injury to athletes at all levels of sport. The book combines the latest scientific research with a critical review of current literature and the author's own personal experience working in the field of strength and conditioning at elite level to explain why certain modalities should or should not be prescribed by strength and conditioning coaches. There are full colour sequenced photographs showing the correct techniques for a wide variety of essential strength exercises. Other topics covered include how to effectively manage recovery and avoid overtraining; techniques for range of movement and corrective exercise; the most effective methods for shoulder and trunk stability; the theory and practice of propioception and plyometrics and how they can improve performance; the different methods employed when working with female or maturing athletes and the physiological impact of factors such as sleep patterns, travel, climate and illness on performance. The book concludes with a series of case studies that illustrate how to put theory into practice.
This handbook on human multitasking provides an integrative overview on simultaneous and sequential multitasking and thus combines theorizing on dual task limitations as well as costs related to task switching. In addition to a wide range of empirical findings and their theoretical integration, the editors provide a number of applications of multitasking, like training, interindividual differences and applied research in traffic and health psychology and music expertise. The book is suitable for people interested in multitasking, that is, for researchers and graduate students of cognitive psychology, movement science, sport psychology, cognitive neuroscience, cognitive and neurological rehabilitation, aging sciences, and broader cognitive science.
This book presents a novel continuum finite deformation framework addressing the complex interactions among electrostatics, species transport, and mechanics in solid networks immersed in a fluid phase of solvent and ions. Grounded on cutting-edge multiphysics theories for soft active materials, the proposed model is primarily applied to ionic polymer metal composites (IPMCs). First, the influence of shear deformation on the IPMC response is analyzed through semi-analytical solutions obtained via the method of matched asymptotic expansions. Second, the novel electrochemo-poromechanical theory is used to predict the curvature relaxation and electric discharge that are observed in IPMC actuation and sensing, respectively, under a sustained stimulus. This newly formulated theory is, in turn, applied to biological cell clusters. Here, important mechanical considerations are integrated into classical bioelectrical models, thus offering novel insights into the interplay of mechanical and electrical signaling in the coordination of developmental processes.
Each Student Book and ActiveBook has clearly laid out pages with a range of supportive features to aid learning and teaching: Getting to know your unit sections ensure learners understand the grading criteria and unit requirements. Getting ready for assessment sections focus on preparation for external assessment with guidance for learners on what to expect. Hints and tips will help them prepare for assessment and sample answers are provided for a range of question types including, short and long answer questions, all with a supporting commentary. Pause point features provide opportunities for learners to self-evaluate their learning at regular intervals. Each Pause point feature gives learners a Hint or Extend option to either revisit and reinforce the topic or to encourage independent research or study skills. Case study and Theory into practice features enable development of problem-solving skills and place the theory into real life situations learners could encounter. Assessment practice features provide scaffolded assessment practice activities that help prepare learners for assessment. Within each assessment practice activity, a Plan, Do and Review section supports learners' formative assessment by making sure they fully understand what they are being asked to do, what their goals are and how to evaluate the task and consider how they could improve. Literacy and numeracy activities provide opportunities for reinforcement in these key areas, placing the skills into a sport context. Dedicated Think future pages provide case studies from the industry, with a focus on aspects of skills development that can be put into practice in a real work environment and further study. |
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