A competent and up-to-date instruction book of techniques needed for climbing big aid routes.

The annual "Journal of the Scottish Mountaineering Club" has maintained a continuous record of mountain activities in Scotland since 1890 - 116 years of unbroken publication. This year's journal includes an article celebrating the centenary of the Ladies Scottish Climbing Club. Guy Robertson describes climbing Centurion on Ben Nevis in extraordinary winter conditions. John Mackenzie tells of winter pioneering in Glen Strathfarrar. Gordon Smith gives an account of his 'Dangerous Obsession' with a route on the Grandes Jorasses thirty years ago. Ole Eistrup describes climbing a new route on the Monch with Dougal Haston shortly before his untimely death. There is also a first hand account of what it is like to suffer from Lyme disease. And of course there are all the details of the latest new climbs north of the border.

On the morning of 2 June 1953, the day of Queen Elizabeth’s coronation, the first news broke that Everest had finally been conquered. Drawing on first-hand interviews and unprecedented access to archives, this is a ground-breaking new account of that extraordinary first ascent.

Revealing that what has gone down in history as a supremely well-planned expedition was actually beset by crisis and controversy, Everest 1953 recounts a bygone age of self-sacrifice and heroism, using letters and personal diaries to reveal the immense stress and heartache the climbers often hid from their fellow team members.

Charting how the ascent affected the original team ­in subsequent years and detailing its immense cultural impact today, 'Everest 1953' is the perfect book to commemorate this remarkable feat of the human will.

This is the first book to explore in depth the science of climbing and mountaineering. Written by a team of leading international sport scientists, clinicians and climbing practitioners, it covers the full span of technical disciplines, including rock climbing, ice climbing, indoor climbing and mountaineering, across all scientific fields from physiology and biomechanics to history, psychology, medicine, motor control, skill acquisition, and engineering. Striking a balance between theory and practice, this uniquely interdisciplinary study provides practical examples and illustrative data to demonstrate the strategies that can be adopted to promote safety, best practice, injury prevention, recovery and mental preparation. Divided into six parts, the book covers all essential aspects of the culture and science of climbing and mountaineering, including: physiology and medicine biomechanics motor control and learning psychology equipment and technology. Showcasing the latest cutting-edge research and demonstrating how science translates into practice, The Science of Climbing and Mountaineering is essential reading for all advanced students and researchers of sport science, biomechanics and skill acquisition, as well as all active climbers and adventure sport coaches.

Throughout 1949 and 1950 H.W. 'Bill' Tilman mounted pioneering expeditions to Nepal and its Himalayan mountains, taking advantage of some of the first access to the country for Western travellers in the 20th century. Tilman and his party-including a certain Sherpa Tenzing Norgay-trekked into the Kathmandu Valley and on to the Langtang region, where the highs and lows began. They first explored the Ganesh Himal, before moving on to the Jugal Himal and the following season embarking on an ambitious trip to Annapurna and Everest. Manaslu was their first objective, but left to 'better men', and Annapurna IV very nearly climbed instead but for bad weather which dogged the whole expedition. Needless to say, Tilman was leading some very lightweight expeditions into some seriously heavyweight mountains. After the Annapurna adventure Tilman headed to Everest with-among others-Dr Charles Houston. Approaching from the delights of Namche Bazaar, the party made progress up the flanks of Pumori to gaze as best they could into the Western Cwm, and at the South Col and South-East Ridge approach to the summit of Everest. His observations were both optimistic and pessimistic: 'One cannot write off the south side as impossible until the approach from the head of the West Cwm to this remarkably airy col has been seen.' But then of the West Cwm: 'A trench overhung by these two tremendous walls might easily become a grave for any party which pitched its camp there.' Nepal Himalaya presents Tilman's favourite sketches, encounters with endless yetis, trouble with the porters, his obsessive relationship with alcohol and issues with the food. And so Tilman departs Nepal for the last time proper with these retiring words: 'If a man feels he is failing to achieve this stern standard he should perhaps withdraw from a field of such high endeavour as the Himalaya.'

"Fiva: An Adventure That Went Wrong" is the epic true account from Gordon Stainforth of a near-death experience on a mountain in Norway in 1969. In the summer of 1969, as Apollo 11 was blasting off to the moon, two teenage twin brothers, with only three years' mountaineering experience, set off to climb one of the highest rock faces in Europe. With just two bars of chocolate, some sandwiches, a four-sentence route description and an old sketch map, they left their tent early one morning with the full expectation of being back in time for tea. Within a few hours things had gone badly wrong, they were looking death in the face, and the English Home Counties seemed very far away...

A resource book covering the finest walks, treks and climbs in the High Pyrenees for 400km between France and Spain, from the Cirque de Lescun, on the edge of the Basque country in the west, to the Carlit massif and the Cerdagne to the east of Andorra. The book is divided into five regional chapters: the Western Valleys; Cirques and Canyons; the Central Pyrenees; Enchanted Mountains; and Andorra and the Eastern High Pyrenees. Intended as a resource book for those planning a range of mountain activities in the Pyrenees, the guide describes each area valley by valley, and provides information on access and accommodation, as well as recommended maps and guidebooks. Unlike a conventional walking book, detailed route descriptions are not included; the guide does, however, direct the reader to the finest walks, treks and climbs in the area and provide an outline of specially selected routes. An extensive introduction gives all the practical advice and information needed for planning a trip. It offers a background to the mountains and their exploration, and provides a snapshot of the range with sections that help the reader focus on specific areas of activity, and suggests where best to exercise that activity.

'No sea voyage can be dull for a man who has an eye for the ever-changing sea and sky, the waves, the wind and the way of a ship upon the water.' So observes H.W. 'Bill' Tilman in this account of two lengthy voyages in which dull intervals were few and far between. In 1966, after a succession of eventful and successful voyages in the high latitudes of the Arctic, Tilman and his pilot cutter Mischief head south again, this time with the Antarctic Peninsula, Smith Island and the unclimbed Mount Foster in their sights. Mischief goes South is an account of a voyage marred by tragedy and dogged by crew trouble from the start. Tilman gives ample insight into the difficulties associated with his selection of shipmates and his supervision of a crew, as he wryly notes, 'to have four misfits in a crew of five is too many'. The second part of this volume contains the author's account of a gruelling voyage south, an account left unwritten for ten years for lack of time and energy. Originally intended as an expedition to the remote Crozet Islands in the southern Indian Ocean, this 1957 voyage evolved into a circumnavigation of Africa, the unplanned consequence of a momentary lapse in attention by an inexperienced helmsman. The two voyages described in Mischief goes South covered 43,000 miles over twenty-five months spent at sea and, while neither was deemed successful, published together they give a fine insight into Tilman's character.

The first in a series of selective guidebooks, "France: Haute Provence" presents many of the finest sport climbing destinations in the world together in one clear and colourful book. Covering all the best areas from the magnificent walls of Ceuse in the north to the impeccable climbing playground of Buoux to the south, this book has a lifetime's worth of climbing waiting on its pages. Produced in the universally-praised Rockfax style, the books presents the reader with clear landscape photos of each crag, never-before-seen close-up photo-topos, and a wealth of action photos specifically taken for the book. Whether you're planning your trip from home, or choosing your next route at the crag, this guide will have everything you're looking for: from inspiration to perspiration. This will be the only english language guidebook that covers this wide range of crags and the only book that is easily available to travelling climbers. It will also be the only guidebook in print for several of the crags. The Crags Covered include: Ceuse, Sisteron, Volx, Orpierre, Bellecombe, Baume Rousse, Ubrieux, Saint Julien, Saint Leger Rochers du Groseau, Combe Obscure, Les Dentelles de Montmirail, Venasque, and Buoux.

Imagine an alien came down to Earth, stuck a probe into a climber's brain - one who'd been climbing for over thirty years - and then transmogrified the contents into a big book of climbing tips. Well, 1001 Climbing Tips by Andy Kirkpatrick is just such a book. This is no regular instruction manual - it's much more useful than that. This is a massive collection of all those little tips that make a real difference when at the crag, in the mountains, or when you're planning your next big trip. It's for anyone who hangs off stuff, or just hangs around in the mountains. These tips are based on three decades of climbing obsession, as well as nineteen ascents of El Cap, numerous Alpine north faces, trips to the polar ice caps, and many other scary climbs and expeditions. The following areas are covered: Basics, Safety, Big Wall, Ice, Mixed, Mountain, Training, and Stuff.

The cliffs along the sunny Cote d'Azur and the area just inland offer some of the best sport climbing found anywhere. The most famous venue is the magnificent Verdon Gorge with it walls of perfect limestone but this is only one of many great crags in the area. To the west is the beautiful Calanques with its amazing landscape, plus the spectacular Sainte Victoire. There are some great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France, plus there is the popular winter venue of Chateauvert and the less well known Esterel and Chateaudouble areas. Add in Saint Jeannet, Gorges du Loup and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and you begin to see what an amazing amount of climbing the area has to offer.

How to Rock Climb!, now in its fifth edition, is the most thorough instructional rock climbing book in the world. All the fundamentals-from ethics to getting up the rock-are presented in John Long's classic style. Thoroughly revised and updated to reflect the modern standards of equipment, technique, and training methods, this guide includes sections on face climbing; crack climbing; ropes, anchors, and belays; getting off the rock; sport climbing; and much more. It is the essential how-to book for rock climbers everywhere. Now with more than 300 color photographs and illustrations, this is the most thorough and complete upgrade this best-selling title has seen since first publishing more than a decade ago.

In 1985 mountain guide Martin Moran achieved the first completion of all 277 Munros* in a single winter with the support and companionship of his wife Joy. Their success was a feat of dedicated mountaineering and effective teamwork through the storms, snows and avalanches of an epic winter season in the Scottish Highlands. Martin's account of the winter journey became a classic mountain narrative, combining his passionate enthusiasm for the mountains with humorous insights into a marriage put to the test through three months of living in a camper van. It was described as 'the best guidebook to the Munros' by mountain writer Jim Perrin. The book inspired many other climbers and runners to pick up the gauntlet in pursuit of new feats of endurance on Scotland's hills, and is now reissued with full colour photographs plus an introductory update by the author on how the 'Munros in Winter' changed his life.

While few of us can aspire to climb the hardest routes, we all may open the SMC Journal and experience the excitement of exploratory climbing or the tense uncertainty of a first ascent. In this issue Helen Rennard recounts her ground-breaking winter climbs with Dave McLeod, Iain Small and Dave Almond, while Almond himself leads us up the fearsome Mistral route on Beinn Eighe. No point of the compass is neglected. In 'Winter Out West' Neil Adams describes pioneering routes in Ardgour. Iain Young goes 'Mountaineering in Hyperborea' on winter visits to the far north, while Bob Duncan soloes the Old Man of Hoy. Finlay Wild finds 'Eastern Promise' in his gruelling Cairngorm ski-tours. And further south, Mike Jacob recalls the rock-climbing exploits of 'Harold Raeburn in Lakeland'. We can recover our breath with some gentler pieces. In 'Night' Ian Crofton reflects on nocturnal phenomena in the mountains, while Donald Orr appraises D.Y.Cameron's mountain drawings. Gavin Anderson asks which heroes deserve 'A Stance on Parnassus', Dave Broadhead gets on his bike, Iain Cameron visits long-lying snowfields, and Robin Campbell guides us round the Scottish mountaineering archives. Humour can be found in the writings of Tim Pettifer and Phil Gribbon, dark fiction in a short story by Mike Dixon, and bone-shattering reality in Brian Shackleton's account of his serious accident. Ever-popular features include New Routes (some 660 of them), Munro Matters, and 21 expert reviews of recent books.

Fully revised and updated 2nd edition including an entirely new chapter on avalanches If you want to leave the confines of the piste, and explore the mountains and valleys beyond, then this is the book for you. Everything you need to make the transition from piste skiing to ski touring is here, from downhill off-piste and uphill skills to avalanche awareness. All aspects are covered in detail, with clear descriptions and stunning photos. The first section of the book covers the knowledge and techniques required to travel beyond the marked trail. The second part contains a selection of Bruce's favourite tours, in guidebook style, to help you plan your own backcountry adventure.

This is the updated 2nd edition, now in full colour. "Scrambles & Easy Climbs in the Lake District" is about the appreciation of rock, the exhilaration of climbing, and the sheer pleasure of doing it in some of the most beautiful places on earth. By discarding the arbitrary division between scrambles and rock-climbs, the books makes its readers free to explore all the Lake District's rocky places. This book, by two experienced rock-climbers, Jon Sparks and Judith Brown, also offers sound advice on how to get started and how to progress; routes that are safe in the wet, and those that should be saved for perfect conditions; and, where to eat, drink and sleep between the ascents. But above all you'll find 69 routes, from scrambling Grade 1 to rock-climbing V.Diff, which explore the many faces of Lakeland rock. There is no better way to spend a Lakeland day than climbing Scafell Pike via the Esk Gorge, Thor's Buttress and Ill Crags. "Scrambles & Easy Climbs" offers a score of such expeditions, from valley floor to airy summit, with hands on rock almost all the way. Less arduous, but equally enjoyable, are days on valley crags like Shepherd's or stand-alone scrambles like Cam Crag Ridge. You can clamber on sunny Pikes Crag high above Wasdale Head; potter about above the oak woods of the Duddon valley; or climb Kirk Fell the wet way, through the waterfalls of Ill Gill.

Many of us who participate in adventure sports have wondered: "What if the worst really happened? What if everything I have held so dear were to be taken away in the blink of an eye: my way of living, my job, my social life ... everything!?" An inspiring tale of a remarkable recovery from a hugely challenging, life-threatening accident. In 2013 he was caught in an avalanche which swept him over a cliff. Despite falling 140 metres and suffering serious brain injuries he survived. His prognosis was that in time he might be able to communicate by blinking. Nine years later he has made a remarkable recovery and though sheer determination recovered his fitness levels. Pete does have speech problems and an odd gait but he has gone on to find new challenges. He has recently cycled the equivalent distance to once around the equator and continues to live life to the full.

Lure of the Mountains is the first published biography of accomplished photographer, ornithologist, teacher and 1924 Everest expedition member Bentley Beetham (1886 - 1963). Written by the late Michael D. Lowes, a pupil of Beetham's at Barnard Castle School in County Durham, and with a foreword by Graham Ratcliffe MBE, the first Briton to have summited Everest from both the North and South sides, and also a pupil of Barnard Castle School, Lure of the Mountains charts Beetham's life from childhood in Darlington, to rock climbing in the Lake District and selection by the Mount Everest Committee as a member of the infamous and ill-fated 1924 Everest Expedition on which George Mallory and Sandy Irvine disappeared high on the mountain. Many of Beetham's images, including those made on the 1924 expedition, were for over 25 years curated by Michael Lowes and are reproduced in this book with the kind permission of the Bentley Beetham Trust and Durham University. His images of Tibet are 'an important historical record of Tibetan culture and a way of life that in modern times has rapidly begun to disappear'. Beetham was a highly skilled rock climber and a pioneer of new routes in the Borrowdale Valley, where he established such notable climbs as Little Chamonix on Shepherd's Crag, and Corvus on Raven Crag. The author, like many other pupils Beetham inspired, was introduced to climbing by his teacher in the Lake District on club trips, and over the years he became a valuable source of information and expert on Beetham's life and work.

No goggles or glacier glasses, no hi-tech axes or day-glo Gore-Tex adorned Alpinists of the mid-nineteenth century. From the 1850s to the early twentieth century, the achievements of Irish mountaineers are largely obscured in British historical accounts. This sets the record straight. Frank Nugent, mountaineer-explorer, reveals a significant Irish contribution beginning with the Golden Age of Alpine Mountaineering when the first ascents of mountains like the Eiger and Weisshorn and the first traverse of the Matterhorn from Italy were by Irish climbers. Significant climbers of the time were: John Tyndall, a scientist from Carlow; John Ball MP from Dublin was the first president of the Alpine Club and led the popularisation of the sport with a series of guidebooks; Anthony Adams-Reilly from Westmeath produced the first reliable map of the Mont Blanc massif; Elizabeth Whitshed from Greystones, a pioneering woman mountaineer, was one of the first to engage in winter Alpine climbing; Valentine Ryan from Offaly is often considered the finest Alpine climber of the early twentieth century.The Alpine's Club's first publication in 1859 was Peaks, Passes and Glaciers, edited by John Ball. A climbing record of the Alpine Club, it was the blueprint for the Alpine Journal published annually ever since. The varied social, political and scientific backgrounds of Irish Alpine pioneers provide absorbing insights into nineteenth-century Irish society.

A book for every climber (from beginner to expert) keen to improve their climbing; the things you really need to know without the clutter of an exhaustive ropework manual (and with a lot more helpful advice on climbing moves). The book includes a progressive series of exercises from simple to more complex movements to practice at your local climbing wall, crag, boulders or at home to improve all aspects of your climbing. Most of the exercises are intended for bottom roping or bouldering so you can drill the moves until they become second nature. The aim is to help you climb safer, with more confidence and less effort than before. There's advice on learning (how to make the most of your time spent practicing) and safety (what every climber needs to know). Basic footwork, handholds and body position: the foundations of all the more complex moves like corkscrew rock-overs and the secrets of arete climbing. Resting: how to take time-out in some improbable places. Advanced techniques including exotic (but really handy) foot-locks and dyno's as well as redpointing tips. Lead climbing: reading routes, placing runners and sound tactics for success. Mind games: how to improve your confidence and conquer your fear of falling. And finally training: identifying your weaknesses and making yourself strong and fit to challenge your dream goal climb. The section on training young people will be of interest to any parent or coach. It contains progressive exercises and drills to help you get practicing straight away and to help these skills become second nature. It includes tips and techniques from the most basic steps to exotic (but very useful) foot-locks and 'chicken wing' jams. It will appeal to a wide range of climbers.

"Glacier Mountaineering" provides the knowledge and skills needed to safely and self-sufficiently navigate over glacier terrain. Hundreds of hilarious and helpful illustrations by Mike Clelland complement the clear and concise text by Andy Tyson. Providing critical instruction for anyone planning to travel over glacier country--from the Cascades to the Rockies to Denali--this book will guide and entertain readers through glacier anatomy, equipment, route finding, and rescue techniques.