Follow along in the footsteps of renowned climbers Fred Beckey, Jim Bridwell, Riccardo Cassin, Art Davidson, Royal Robbins, David Roberts, Bradford Washburn, Jon Waterman, and others as they scale Alaska's great peaks in Alaska Ascents by Bill Sherwonit. This collection of seventeen riveting first-person accounts reveals the stories of mountains, among the most inaccessible and difficult to climb in all of North America, and the remarkable individuals who have climbed them. In their stories, we learn about people who are drawn to scale such alien peaks, and who experience triumph of the spirit and sometimes tragedy and loss. Editor Bill Sherwonit, who lives in Anchorage, is also the author of several books, including To the Top of Denali: Climbing Adventures on North America's Highest Peak, Alaska's Accessible Wilderness: A Traveler's Guide to Alaska's State Parks, and Denali: The Complete Guide. "A riveting anthology . . . Each piece effectively captures the intensity of the undertaking and the emotions and challenges relating to each climb . . . A fine compendium of mountain literature highlights." -Library Journal "A terrific read." -Small Press "Alaska Ascents is packed with tales of -148 degrees F temperatures, 150-mile-per-hour winds, and all those splendid privations associated with making first ascents in the Great Land." -ROCK & ICE "Captivating." -Climbing Magazine "Climbers, would-be climbers, and nonclimbers alike will find this book good reading." -Alaska magazine WINNER: Special Jury Mention, Banff Mountain Festival: "an important book . . . one that climbers around the world will want to own." Fred Beckey, Jim Bridwell, Riccardo Cassin, Art Davidson, Royal Robbins, David Roberts, Bradford Washburn, Jon Waterman, and more have made highly acclaimed ascents in Alaska and have written enthralling accounts of their adventures. This anthology of Alaska climbing stories gives voice to Alaska's great peaks and to the people who have climbed them. Alaska Ascents takes readers to all of Alaska's major mountain systems-the St. Elias, Wrangell, Coast, Chugach, Alaska, and Brooks Ranges-and to many of its grandest peaks-Denali, St. Elias, Fairweather, Foraker, Hunter, Moose's Tooth, Devil's Thumb, and the Kichatna Spires. The storytellers in this collection reveal the challenges of Alaska's mountains, among the most inaccessible and difficult to climb in all of North America. These mountaineers have pushed the limits of what's possible in the sport of climbing, surmounting long, dangerous approaches, incredible cold, severe subarctic snowstorms, huge ice fields, and heavily crevassed glaciers. In their stories, we learn about people who are drawn to scale such alien peaks, and who experience triumph of the spirit and sometimes tragedy and loss.

Combining high quality images and written text, this illustrated book reflects upon the fascinating life of Ines Papert. The fourtime World Champion ice climber is always on the lookout for new challenges and even when minor setbacks appear, she doesn't allow herself to be thrown off course. In addition to training and preparing for her 2012 Baffin Island expedition, she collaborated with author Johanna Stockl to produce this exciting illustrated book. Not only is Papert a motivated expedition teammate, she is also the family-oriented mother of her energetic son Manu. Ines Papert has won the Ice Climbing World Championship four times. Today, it is the world's steepest walls and most exposed faces that fuel her passion.

Here at last is the thrilling memoir of the legendary mountaineer Bradford Washburn, one of the last explorers and adventurers of the twentieth century. Drawing from decades of memories, journals, and an exquisite photographic collection, Washburn completes the self-portrait of a man drawn to altitude, from his first great climb of Mount Washington at age eleven, through numerous first ascents of peaks all over the world, to handily scaling a climbing wall at eighty-eight.       Indeed, Washburn also became renowned for his pioneering work in aerial photography, his dedication to science and cartography, his decades of leading Boston’s Museum of Science, and his close association with the National Geographic Society.       This mountaineering icon candidly offers an intimate look at a life devoted to the world’s highest places, to the friends who challenged the mountains with him, and to wife Barbara, who shared his adventures for nearly sixty-five years.

Tackling the unclimbed west face of the remote Siula Grande in the Andes, Joe Simpson and his partner Simon Yates achieved the summit before disaster struck. A few days later, an exhausted Simon staggered into base camp to tell their non-climbing companion that Joe was dead. For three days he wrestled with guilt as they prepared to return home. Then a cry in the night took them out, where they found Joe, badly injured, crawling through the snowstorm. Far from causing Joe's death, Simon had saved his friend's life when he was forced into the appalling decision to cut the rope.

However many times it has been done, the act of casting off the warps and letting go one's last hold of the shore at the start of a voyage has about it something solemn and irrevocable, like marriage, for better or for worse. Mostly Mischief's ordinary title belies four more extraordinary voyages made by H.W. 'Bill' Tilman covering almost 25,000 miles in both Arctic and Antarctic waters. The first sees the pilot cutter Mischief retracing the steps of Elizabethan explorer John Davis to the eastern entrance to the Northwest Passage. Tilman and a companion land on the north coast and make the hazardous crossing of Bylot Island while the remainder of the crew make the eventful passage to the southern shore to recover the climbing party. Back in England, Tilman refuses to accept the condemnation of Mischief's surveyor, undertaking costly repairs before heading back to sea for a first encounter with the East Greenland ice. Between June 1964 and September 1965, Tilman is at sea almost without a break. Two eventful voyages to East Greenland in Mischief provide the entertaining bookends to his account of the five-month voyage in the Southern Ocean as skipper of the schooner Patanela. Tilman had been hand-picked by the expedition leader as the navigator best able to land a team of Australian and New Zealand climbers and scientists on Heard Island, a tiny volcanic speck in the Furious Fifties devoid of safe anchorages and capped by an unclimbed glaciated peak. In a separate account of this successful voyage, Colin Putt describes the expedition as unique - the first ascent of a mountain to start below sea level.

Mountaineering in the Ecrins Massif showcases the Ecrins' most beautiful summits through a selection of the area's best lower grade snow, rock and mixed climbs. Authors Frederic Chevaillot, Paul Grobel and Jean-Rene Minelli have chosen 25 classic Ecrins routes - graded between F and AD - that have come to be regarded as classics due to their quality, their altitude or, simply, their easy access. These routes provide the essential pleasures of mountaineering: getting off the beaten track, enjoying the pure mountain air and delighting in the charms of the high mountains. Most of these routes are at the boundary between hiking and technical alpinism and should be within the capabilities of any fit hiker-mountaineer. Routes and peaks featured include: the Aiguille du Goleon; the north ridge of the Aiguille Dibona; the south ridge of Pic Coolidge; the north-east face of the Meije Orientale; and the traverse of the Barre des Ecrins ridge, plus many more. Each route features a detailed and comprehensive route description, a sketch map and a route summary detailing the start point, difficulty, timings, height gain, best time of year and the gear required. A conscious decision was made to limit the selection to relatively easy climbs, and so the routes described in this book - a mere fraction of the climbs in the magnificent Ecrins Massif - should be within the capabilities of almost all mountaineers.

Climb to Fitness shows anyone who visits the climbing gym, from beginners to veteran climbers, how best to use the various parts of the gym for their own customized workout. It explores all the features modern climbing gyms offer-bouldering walls, toprope areas, lead climbing, hangboards, weight rooms, and more-and how to use these not only to enhance your climbing ability, but also to build overall fitness and strength. Whether you want a step-by-step workout or a buffet of workouts to create your own unique training regime, Climb to Fitness will get you there.

Mountaineering in the Pyrenees features twenty-five classic mountain routes and link-ups that will delight any mountaineer who enjoys getting off the beaten track. Author and mountain guide Francois Laurens has drawn upon his encyclopaedic knowledge of the Pyrenees, and recommendations from other mountaineers, to put together a diverse selection of climbs - many of them accessible from spring to autumn - along the entire Pyrenean chain, from the Mediterranean to the Basque country. The most characteristic feature of the Pyrenees is its hodgepodge of topographies, climates and lives, all jumbled together. Sometimes, moving just a short way across this patchwork landscape, perhaps from one side of a cliff to another, is enough to take you into a completely different environment. This diversity is reflected in the routes featured in this book. Ridge traverses and rock climbs dominate the selection, which includes only a few ephemeral snow climbs, but every route has its own unique character and provides a wonderful day out in the mountains. Featured routes include the Salenques-Tempestades Ridge on Pico de Aneto, the Espadas Ridge on Pic des Posets, and a selection of climbs on the renowned peaks of Monte Perdido, the Maladeta, the Balaitous, the Vignemale, and the Grand Astazous and Petit Astazous. Each route features technical notes, a topo and route description, and photos illustrating the character of the climbing.

This book is about the rise of a new ethos in British mountaineering during the late nineteenth century. It traces how British attitudes to mountains were transformed by developments both within the new sport of mountaineering and in the wider fin-de-siècle culture. The emergence of the new genre of mountaineering literature, which helped to create a self-conscious community of climbers with broadly shared values, coincided with a range of cultural and scientific trends that also influenced the direction of mountaineering. The author discusses the growing preoccupation with the physical basis of aesthetic sensations, and with physicality and materiality in general; the new interest in the physiology of effort and fatigue; and the characteristically Victorian drive to enumerate, codify, and classify. Examining a wide range of texts, from memoirs and climbing club journals to hotel visitors’ books, he argues that the figure known as the ‘New Mountaineer’ was seen to embody a distinctly modern approach to mountain climbing and mountain aesthetics.  

New England is one of the country's most spectacular rock climbing arenas. The 66,608-square-mile region is studded with intimate crags, sweeping walls, compact sea cliffs, towering ledges, and spectacular overhangs. This full-color, revised edition of Rock Climbing New England describes fifteen of the region's best climbing areas in detail. Your choices of rocks and routes include two of the country's premier traditional crags, Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges in New Hampshire; New England's biggest rock face, Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire; and stunning sea cliff routes at Maine's Acadia National Park and at Rhode Island's Fort Wetherill State Park. Other superb selections include urban cragging at Crow Hill near Boston, the traprock cliffs of Ragged Mountain in Connecticut, and the granite slabs of Wheeler Mountain in Vermont. Inside you will also discover: climbing history of each site, pitch-by-pitch written descriptions, detailed topos and clear overview photos, and insider tips to remote climbing areas waiting to be explored. Rock Climbing New England, 2nd edition is an indispensable resource for anyone seeking adventure in this remarkable region.

Winner, Mountain Literature (Non-Fiction) Award, Banff Mountain Book Festival 2018 Nick Bullock is a climber who lives in a small green van, flitting between Llanberis, Wales, and Chamonix in the French Alps. Tides, Nick's second book, is the much-anticipated follow-up to his critically acclaimed debut Echoes. Now retired from the strain of work as a prison officer, Nick is free to climb. A lot. Tides is a treasury of his antics and adventures with some of the world's leading climbers, including Steve House, Kenton Cool, Nico Favresse, Andy Houseman and James McHaffie. Follow Nick and his partners as they push the limits on some of the world's most serious routes: The Bells! The Bells! and The Hollow Man on Gogarth's North Stack Wall; the Slovak Direct on Denali; Guerdon Grooves on Buachaille Etive Mor; and the north faces of Chang Himal and Mount Alberta, among countless others. Nick's life can be equated to the rhythm of the sea. At high tide, he climbs, he loves it, he is good at it; he laughs and jokes, scares himself, falls, gets back up and climbs some more. Then the tide goes out and he finds himself alone, exposed, all questions and no answers. Self-doubt, grieving for friends or family, fearful, sometimes opinionated, occasionally angry - his writing more honest and exposed than in any account of a climb. Only when the tide turns is he able to forget once more. Tides is a gripping memoir that captures the very essence of what it means to dedicate one's life to climbing.

I personally have always been quite comfortable either halfway up or halfway down a steep, snowy mountainside. Ascents and Descents is the autobiography of Peter Allison: civil engineer, rock climber, ski-mountaineer and mountain guide. Starting out on the crags of north-east England as a young boy, Peter soon became immersed in the emerging climbing scene of the 1950s, when harnesses were a thing of the future, and hemp ropes and plimsolls were the staple climbing gear. He soon began to explore ice climbing and mixed climbing, progressing to crags in the Lake District and then the Alps, and claiming several first British ascents. Over the course of an impressive sixty-five-year climbing career, he climbed hard lines on the high mountains, including the North Face of the Eiger and the Hoernli Ridge on the Matterhorn. Having initially juggled climbing with a thriving and extremely busy quarrying business, Peter decided it was time to dedicate more time to his love of the hills, and qualified as a mountain guide, subsequently specialising in routes on the Chamonix Aiguilles, the Aiguille du Chardonnet and the Aiguille d'Argentiere. He built an excellent reputation, balancing fun and risk with safety and prudence, and always putting his clients first. Ascents and Descents tells of the highs and lows of climbing, from standing on a summit in perfect conditions to the frustration of years of rehabilitation from a broken pelvis. Peter Allison recounts his colourful story with honesty, humour and frank detail, leaving you in no doubt about his true passion for the mountains.

The annual "Journal of the Scottish Mountaineering Club" has maintained a continuous record of mountain activities in Scotland since 1890 - 116 years of unbroken publication. This year's journal includes an article celebrating the centenary of the Ladies Scottish Climbing Club. Guy Robertson describes climbing Centurion on Ben Nevis in extraordinary winter conditions. John Mackenzie tells of winter pioneering in Glen Strathfarrar. Gordon Smith gives an account of his 'Dangerous Obsession' with a route on the Grandes Jorasses thirty years ago. Ole Eistrup describes climbing a new route on the Monch with Dougal Haston shortly before his untimely death. There is also a first hand account of what it is like to suffer from Lyme disease. And of course there are all the details of the latest new climbs north of the border.

The bright future of British Mountaineering is under the spotlight in this edition of the Alpine Journal with contributions from the latest generation of leading alpinists - Ben Silvestre, Uisdean Hawthorn, Tom Livingstone and Ben Tibbetts - and their compelling ascents in the Himalaya, Alaska and the Alps. Ian Parnell explains how mentoring schemes around the world have stimulated debate in Britain and led to a revamp of the Alpine Climbing Group. In this centenary year of the Armistice, we also commemorate the sacrifice of another era's young members who died in the First World War and recall how fighting reached the highest parts of Europe as troops from opposing armies faced off in the Alps and Dolomites. Jonathan Westaway examines the inspiring life of E O Shebbeare, an early Everest climber whose forestry career prefigure todays environmentalism. The clinical psychologist and Himalayan mountaineer Malcolm Bass applies his professional skill to his passion for alpinism, Mike Searle looks back on the Nepali earthquake - and forward to the next one. Victor Saunders take a wry look at societies attitude to risk. Terry Gifford considers mountain literature as a form of 'dark pastoralism' and Donald Orr takes a fresh look at the mountain art of Ferdinand Hodler. With its comprehensive look at mountain literature and coverage of first ascents around the world, the alpine journal is an indispensable resource for alpinists around the world.

When Boulder Britain first appeared in 2012 there was nothing else like it; eight years on, there still isn't.The UK's most ambitious guidebook set out to showcase and guide users through the ripe wealth of bouldering all across Britain. From Cornwall to Scotland, from Wales to Northumberland, taking in the Peak, Yorkshire, Lake District and Southern Sandstone along the way. It was a much-loved book. 2020 sees a major update to the classic guide. With 25 exciting new venues, lots of new problems, updated info and a great selection of new photos to reflect the fabulous sport that bouldering is today. This is a book to inspire any climber. From beginners on their first outdoor ventures, to dedicated boulderers after famous climbs; from road tripping explorers to holidaymaking families. It's all in here.

Shortlisted for the Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature. 'As I sat cradling the man's head, with his blood and brains sticking to my hands, I heard a voice - my own voice. It was asking me something. Asking how I had ended up like this, desperate and lost among people who thought nothing of caving in a man's head and then standing back to watch him die.' Nick Bullock was a prison officer working in a maximum-security jail with some of Britain's most notorious criminals. Trapped in a world of aggression and fear, he felt frustrated and alone. Then he discovered the mountains. Making up for lost time, Bullock soon became one of Britain's best climbers, learning his trade in the mountains of Scotland and Wales, and travelling from Pakistan to Peru in his search for new routes and a new way of seeing the world - and ultimately an escape route from his life inside. Told that no one ever leaves the service - the security, the stability, the 'job for life' - Bullock focused his existence on a single goal: to walk free, with no shackles, into a mountain life. Echoes is a powerful and compelling exploration of freedom, and what it means to live life on your own terms.

WINNER: Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature 1997 Paul Pritchard's Deep Play is a unique, stylish and timeless commentary reflecting the pressures and rewards of climbing some of the world's hardest and most challenging rock climbs. Pritchard started climbing in Lancashire before moving to join the vibrant Llanberis scene of the mid-1980s, at a time when the adventurous development of the Dinorwig slate quarries was in full swing. Many of the new slate routes were notable for their fierce technical difficulty and sparse protection, and Pritchard took a full part in this arcane sub-culture of climbing and at the same time deployed his skills on the Anglesey sea cliffs to produce a clutch of equally demanding wall climbs. Born with an adventurous soul, it was not long before Pritchard and his friends were planning exotic trips. In 1987, paired with Johnny Dawes, Pritchard made an epoch-making visit to Scotland's Sron Ulladale to free its famous aid route, The Scoop. Pritchard and Dawes, with no previous high altitude experience, then attempted the Catalan Pillar of Bhagirathi III in the Garhwal Himalaya in India, a precocious first expedition prematurely curtailed when Pritchard was hit by stonefall at the foot of the face. In 1992, Pritchard and Noel Craine teamed up with the alpinists Sean Smith and Simon Yates to climb a big wall route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia. Pritchard followed this with an equally fine first ascent of the West Face of Mount Asgard on Baffin Island. Other trips - to Yosemite, Pakistan and Nepal as well as returns to Patagonia - resulted in a clutch of notable repeats, first ascents and some failures. The failure list also included two life-threatening falls (one on Gogarth, the other on Creag Meaghaidh), which prompted the author into thought-provoking personal re-assessments, in advance of his later near-terminal accident on The Totem Pole in Tasmania. A penetrating view of the adventures and preoccupations of a contemporary player, Deep Play stands alone as a unique first-hand account of what many consider to be the last great era in British climbing.

SHORTLISTED FOR THE 2022 SPORTS BOOK AWARDS 'The best Everest book I've read since Into Thin Air. Synnott's climbing skills take you places few will ever dare to tread, but it's his writing that will keep you turning pages well past bedtime.' - Mark Adams Veteran climber Mark Synnott never planned on climbing Mount Everest. But a hundred-year mystery lured him into an expedition where a history of passionate adventure, chilling tragedy, and human aspiration unfolded. George Mallory and Sandy Irvine were last seen in 1924, eight hundred feet shy of Everest's summit. A century later, we still don't know whether they achieved their goal of being first to reach the top, decades before Hillary and Norgay in 1953. Irvine carried a camera with him to record their attempt, but it, along with his body, had never been found. Did Mallory and Irvine reach the summit and take a photograph before they fell to their deaths? Mark Synnott made his own ascent up the infamous North Face to try and find Irvine's body and the camera. But during a season described as 'the one that broke Everest', an awful traffic jam of climbers at the summit resulted in tragic deaths. Synnott's quest became something bigger than the original mystery that drew him there - an attempt to understand the madness of the mountain and why it continues to have a magnetic draw on explorers. Exploring how science, business and politics have changed who climbs Everest, The Third Pole is a thrilling portrait of the mountain spanning a century.

The autobiography of one of the greatest names in mountain climbing. Joe Brown is one of the greatest names in British climbing. This book not only describes his many notable climbs, but reveals a most engaging personality with a highly interesting approach to his craft. He was born in a Manchester slum, the youngest of seven children; his father died before he was a year old. The characteristics he showed as a child - a quite extraordinary self-reliance and an unexpected love of the countryside - are reflected throughout his life-story. THE HARD YEARS is also the story of Joe Brown's climbs up some of the toughest mountains in the world.