Best Climbs Rocky Mountain National Park showcases the classic routes and best climbs in America's largest national park. Ideal for both local and nonlocal climbers who want to hit as many select climbs as possible in a weekend or a short visit, it provides visually appealing, to-the-point information. Longtime Colorado climber Stewart Green filters out more than 150 first-rate routes-from moderate beginner routes to challenging expert climbs.

'I believe we so far forgot ourselves as to shake hands on it.' - H. W. Tilman, on reaching the summit of Nanda Devi.In 1934, after fifty years of trying, mountaineers finally gained access to the Nanda Devi Sanctuary in the Garhwal Himalaya. Two years later an expedition led by H.W. Tilman reached the summit of Nanda Devi. At over 25,000 feet, it was the highest mountain to be climbed until 1950.The Ascent of Nanda Devi, Tilman's account of the climb, has been widely hailed as a classic. Keenly observed, well informed and at times hilariously funny, it is as close to a 'conventional' mountaineering account as Tilman could manage.Beginning with the history of the mountain ('there was none') and the expedition's arrival in India, Tilman recounts the build-up and approach to the climb. Writing in his characteristic dry style, he tells how Sherpas are hired, provisions are gathered (including 'a mouth-blistering sauce containing 100 per cent chillies') and the climbers head into the hills, towards Nanda Devi.Superbly parodied in The Ascent of Rum Doodle by W.E. Bowman, The Ascent of Nanda Devi was among the earliest accounts of a climbing expedition to be published.Much imitated but rarely matched, it remains one of the best.

Mountaineering in the Swiss Alps presents a selection of classic routes in the main Swiss climbing areas that have forged Switzerland's reputation as a mountaineering paradise. Featured are over thirty climbs, ranging from relatively easy normal routes to more challenging itineraries. All are within the capabilities of most mountaineers and provide an excellent introduction to the wide variety of climbing that Switzerland has to offer. Every route, whether it is a pure rock climb, a mixed ridge, a big north face or a long traverse, was chosen for the beauty of the surroundings and the quality of the climbing. Some are on world famous peaks that every mountaineer aspires to climb, such as the Matterhorn (Mont Cervin), the Breithorn and the Monch; others are on lesser-known summits and will delight those who like getting away from the beaten track. Written by mountaineer and author Stephane Maire, each route features technical notes, a route description and topo, and photos illustrating the climb's unique character.

Climb to Fitness shows anyone who visits the climbing gym, from beginners to veteran climbers, how best to use the various parts of the gym for their own customized workout. It explores all the features modern climbing gyms offer-bouldering walls, toprope areas, lead climbing, hangboards, weight rooms, and more-and how to use these not only to enhance your climbing ability, but also to build overall fitness and strength. Whether you want a step-by-step workout or a buffet of workouts to create your own unique training regime, Climb to Fitness will get you there.

"Fiva: An Adventure That Went Wrong" is the epic true account from Gordon Stainforth of a near-death experience on a mountain in Norway in 1969. In the summer of 1969, as Apollo 11 was blasting off to the moon, two teenage twin brothers, with only three years' mountaineering experience, set off to climb one of the highest rock faces in Europe. With just two bars of chocolate, some sandwiches, a four-sentence route description and an old sketch map, they left their tent early one morning with the full expectation of being back in time for tea. Within a few hours things had gone badly wrong, they were looking death in the face, and the English Home Counties seemed very far away...

This book is about the rise of a new ethos in British mountaineering during the late nineteenth century. It traces how British attitudes to mountains were transformed by developments both within the new sport of mountaineering and in the wider fin-de-siècle culture. The emergence of the new genre of mountaineering literature, which helped to create a self-conscious community of climbers with broadly shared values, coincided with a range of cultural and scientific trends that also influenced the direction of mountaineering. The author discusses the growing preoccupation with the physical basis of aesthetic sensations, and with physicality and materiality in general; the new interest in the physiology of effort and fatigue; and the characteristically Victorian drive to enumerate, codify, and classify. Examining a wide range of texts, from memoirs and climbing club journals to hotel visitors’ books, he argues that the figure known as the ‘New Mountaineer’ was seen to embody a distinctly modern approach to mountain climbing and mountain aesthetics.  

Winner, Mountain Literature (Non-Fiction) Award, Banff Mountain Book Festival 2018 Nick Bullock is a climber who lives in a small green van, flitting between Llanberis, Wales, and Chamonix in the French Alps. Tides, Nick's second book, is the much-anticipated follow-up to his critically acclaimed debut Echoes. Now retired from the strain of work as a prison officer, Nick is free to climb. A lot. Tides is a treasury of his antics and adventures with some of the world's leading climbers, including Steve House, Kenton Cool, Nico Favresse, Andy Houseman and James McHaffie. Follow Nick and his partners as they push the limits on some of the world's most serious routes: The Bells! The Bells! and The Hollow Man on Gogarth's North Stack Wall; the Slovak Direct on Denali; Guerdon Grooves on Buachaille Etive Mor; and the north faces of Chang Himal and Mount Alberta, among countless others. Nick's life can be equated to the rhythm of the sea. At high tide, he climbs, he loves it, he is good at it; he laughs and jokes, scares himself, falls, gets back up and climbs some more. Then the tide goes out and he finds himself alone, exposed, all questions and no answers. Self-doubt, grieving for friends or family, fearful, sometimes opinionated, occasionally angry - his writing more honest and exposed than in any account of a climb. Only when the tide turns is he able to forget once more. Tides is a gripping memoir that captures the very essence of what it means to dedicate one's life to climbing.

New England is one of the country's most spectacular rock climbing arenas. The 66,608-square-mile region is studded with intimate crags, sweeping walls, compact sea cliffs, towering ledges, and spectacular overhangs. This full-color, revised edition of Rock Climbing New England describes fifteen of the region's best climbing areas in detail. Your choices of rocks and routes include two of the country's premier traditional crags, Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges in New Hampshire; New England's biggest rock face, Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire; and stunning sea cliff routes at Maine's Acadia National Park and at Rhode Island's Fort Wetherill State Park. Other superb selections include urban cragging at Crow Hill near Boston, the traprock cliffs of Ragged Mountain in Connecticut, and the granite slabs of Wheeler Mountain in Vermont. Inside you will also discover: climbing history of each site, pitch-by-pitch written descriptions, detailed topos and clear overview photos, and insider tips to remote climbing areas waiting to be explored. Rock Climbing New England, 2nd edition is an indispensable resource for anyone seeking adventure in this remarkable region.

The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland is an anthology of outrageous climbing adventures from twenty-six of the most extraordinary sea cliffs across Scotland. From the farthest flung sandstone sea stacks of the northern isles, to the granite playground of the Aberdeenshire coast, via the intricate archipelago of the Hebrides, all the major sea cliffs on the Scottish mainland and surrounding islands are covered in five distinct sections. Each area is described in rich detail and accompanied by personal accounts that offer an intimate perspective of the distinctive nature of this unique environment, and the generous rewards for those willing to accept the challenge of these seemingly improbable lines. With contributions from some of the most renowned pioneers and activists in the field of climbing, this compilation traces the remarkable history of Scottish sea cliff climbing and offers a glimpse of its future. Original poetry by Stuart Campbell complements each introductory section, and exclusive images from some of the UK's most distinguished photographers reveal the cliffs in high resolution with unique clarity and vibrance, capturing the drama and scale of these magnificent seascapes. Full list of contributors: Ross Jones, Tim Rankin, Guy Robertson, Andy Inglis, Lou Reynolds, Dave MacLeod, Wilson Moir, Grant Farquhar, Simon Nadin, Murdoch Jamieson, Rob Christie, Blair Fyffe, Steve McClure, Rick Campbell, Kevin Howett, Karin Magog, Alice Irmak Thompson, Pete Herd, Ian Taylor, Tess Fryer, Mick Fowler, Simon Richardson and Jason Currie. Original poetry by Stuart Campbell. Foreword by Julian Lines, author of Boardman-Tasker winning Tears of the Dawn, and the UK's most prolific deep-water solo climber.

9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes - navigation through the maze of advice for the self-coached climber 9 out of 10 climbers are stuck. They are stuck on the same things. Some of the things that hold climbers back from improving their climbing standard are the same as they were twenty years ago: motivation, managing time, and not being able to analyse and correct their own basic technical or tactical errors. But they are also stuck for a new set of reasons. Twenty years ago, the problem was that no one knew how to train for climbing. Information was scarce and couldn't travel fast among the participants. Today, it's the opposite problem. Book after book lists techniques for climbing, exercises for climbing, tips for climbing. Navigating this barrage of information, filtering out the irrelevant and homing in on what matters to your life, your climbing and your circumstances has been the limiting step for today's climber. This book is the first to present the science of improving at climbing in a way that will actually help you make confident decisions and stay focused on the things that will make the biggest difference. Dave Macleod has crystallised 16 years experience as a world class climber, sport scientist and renowned coach into an accessible and thought provoking guide to improving at rock climbing.

'Only a man in the devil of a hurry would wish to fly to his mountains, forgoing the lingering pleasure and mounting excitement of a slow, arduous approach under his own exertions.' H.W. 'Bill' Tilman's mountain travel philosophy, rooted in Africa and the Himalaya and further developed in his early sailing adventures in the southern hemisphere, was honed to perfection with his discovery of Greenland as the perfect sailing destination. His Arctic voyages in the pilot cutter Mischief proved no less challenging than his earlier southern voyages. The shorter elapsed time made it rather easier to find a crew but the absence of warm tropical passages meant that similar levels of hardship were simply compressed into a shorter timescale. First published fifty years before political correctness became an accepted rule, Mischief in Greenland is a treasure trove of Tilman's observational wit. In this account of his first two West Greenland voyages, he pulls no punches with regard to the occasional failings, leaving the reader to seek out and discover the numerous achievements of these voyages. The highlight of the second voyage was the identification, surveying and successful first ascent of Mount Raleigh, first observed on the eastern coast of Baffin Island by the Elizabethan explorer John Davis in 1585. For the many sailors and climbers who have since followed his lead and ventured north into those waters, Tilman provides much practical advice, whether from his own observations or those of Davis and the inimitable Captain Lecky. Tilman's typical gift of understatement belies his position as one of the greatest explorers and adventurers of the twentieth century.

In January 1959, ten experienced young skiers set out for Mount Otorten in the far north of Russia. While one of the skiers fell ill and returned., the remaining nine lost their way and ended up on another mountain slope known as Kholat Syakhl (or 'Mountain of the Dead'). On the night of 1 February 1959 something or someone caused the skiers to flee their tent in such terror that they used knives to slash their way out. Search parties were sent out and their bodies were found, some with massive internal injuries but with no external marks on them. The autopsy stated the violent injuries were caused by 'an unknown compelling force'. The area was sealed off for years by the authorities and the full events of that night remained unexplained. Using original research carried out in Russia and photographs from the skier's cameras, Keith McCloskey attempts to explain what happened to the nine young people who lost their lives in the mysterious 'Dyatlov Pass Incident'.

I personally have always been quite comfortable either halfway up or halfway down a steep, snowy mountainside. Ascents and Descents is the autobiography of Peter Allison: civil engineer, rock climber, ski-mountaineer and mountain guide. Starting out on the crags of north-east England as a young boy, Peter soon became immersed in the emerging climbing scene of the 1950s, when harnesses were a thing of the future, and hemp ropes and plimsolls were the staple climbing gear. He soon began to explore ice climbing and mixed climbing, progressing to crags in the Lake District and then the Alps, and claiming several first British ascents. Over the course of an impressive sixty-five-year climbing career, he climbed hard lines on the high mountains, including the North Face of the Eiger and the Hoernli Ridge on the Matterhorn. Having initially juggled climbing with a thriving and extremely busy quarrying business, Peter decided it was time to dedicate more time to his love of the hills, and qualified as a mountain guide, subsequently specialising in routes on the Chamonix Aiguilles, the Aiguille du Chardonnet and the Aiguille d'Argentiere. He built an excellent reputation, balancing fun and risk with safety and prudence, and always putting his clients first. Ascents and Descents tells of the highs and lows of climbing, from standing on a summit in perfect conditions to the frustration of years of rehabilitation from a broken pelvis. Peter Allison recounts his colourful story with honesty, humour and frank detail, leaving you in no doubt about his true passion for the mountains.

The bright future of British Mountaineering is under the spotlight in this edition of the Alpine Journal with contributions from the latest generation of leading alpinists - Ben Silvestre, Uisdean Hawthorn, Tom Livingstone and Ben Tibbetts - and their compelling ascents in the Himalaya, Alaska and the Alps. Ian Parnell explains how mentoring schemes around the world have stimulated debate in Britain and led to a revamp of the Alpine Climbing Group. In this centenary year of the Armistice, we also commemorate the sacrifice of another era's young members who died in the First World War and recall how fighting reached the highest parts of Europe as troops from opposing armies faced off in the Alps and Dolomites. Jonathan Westaway examines the inspiring life of E O Shebbeare, an early Everest climber whose forestry career prefigure todays environmentalism. The clinical psychologist and Himalayan mountaineer Malcolm Bass applies his professional skill to his passion for alpinism, Mike Searle looks back on the Nepali earthquake - and forward to the next one. Victor Saunders take a wry look at societies attitude to risk. Terry Gifford considers mountain literature as a form of 'dark pastoralism' and Donald Orr takes a fresh look at the mountain art of Ferdinand Hodler. With its comprehensive look at mountain literature and coverage of first ascents around the world, the alpine journal is an indispensable resource for alpinists around the world.

In October 1972, Nando Parrado and his rugby club teammates were on a flight from Uruguay to Chile when their plane crashed into a mountain. Miraculously, many of the passengers survived but Nando's mother and sister died and he was unconscious for three days. Stranded more than 11,000 feet up in the wilderness of the Andes, the survivors soon heard that the search for them had been called off - and realise the only food for miles around was the bodies of their dead friends ... In a last desperate bid for safety, Nando and a teammate set off in search of help. They climbed 17,000-foot-high mountains, facing death at every step, but inspired by his love for his family Nando drove them on until, finally, 72 days after the crash, they found rescue.

My eyes lifted to the horizon and the unmistakable snowy outline of Everest. Everest, the mountain of my childhood dreams. A mountain that has haunted me my whole life. A mountain I have seen hundreds of times in photographs and films but never in real life. In April 2018, seasoned adventurer Ben Fogle and Olympic cycling gold medallist Victoria Pendleton, along with mountaineer Kenton Cool, took on their most exhausting challenge yet - climbing Everest for the British Red Cross to highlight the environmental challenges mountains face. It would be harrowing and exhilarating in equal measure as they walked the fine line between life and death 8,000 metres above sea level. For Ben, the seven-week expedition into the death zone was to become the adventure of a lifetime, as well as a humbling and enlightening journey. For his wife Marina, holding the family together at home, it was an agonising wait for news. Together, they dedicated the experience to their son, Willem Fogle, stillborn at eight months. Cradling little Willem to say goodbye, Ben and Marina made a promise to live brightly. To embrace every day. To always smile. To be positive and to inspire. And from the depths of their grief and dedication, Ben's Everest dream was born. Up, from here the only way was Up. Part memoir, part thrilling adventure, Ben and Marina's account of his ascent to the roof of the world is told with their signature humour and warmth, as well as with profound compassion.

'To those who went to the War straight from school and survived it, the problem of what to do afterwards was peculiarly difficult.' For H.W. 'Bill' Tilman, the solution lay in Africa: in gold prospecting, mountaineering and a 3,000-mile bicycle ride across the continent. Tilman was one of the greatest adventurers of his time, a pioneering climber and sailor who held exploration above all else. He made first ascents throughout the Himalaya, attempted Mount Everest, and sailed into the Arctic Circle. For Tilman, the goal was always to explore, to see new places, to discover rather than conquer. First published in 1937, Snow on the Equator chronicles Tilman's early adventures; his transition from East African coffee planter to famed mountaineer. After World War I, Tilman left for Africa, where he grew coffee, prospected for gold and met Eric Shipton, the two beginning their famed mountaineering partnership, traversing Mount Kenya and climbing Kilimanjaro and Ruwenzori. Tilman eventually left Africa in typically adventurous style via a 3,000-mile solo bicycle ride across the continent - all recounted here in splendidly funny style. Tilman is one of the greatest of all travel writers. His books are well-informed and keenly observed, concerned with places and people as much as summits and achievements. They are full of humour and anecdotes and are frequently hilarious. He is part of the great British tradition of comic writing and there is nobody else quite like him.

Shortlisted for the Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature. 'As I sat cradling the man's head, with his blood and brains sticking to my hands, I heard a voice - my own voice. It was asking me something. Asking how I had ended up like this, desperate and lost among people who thought nothing of caving in a man's head and then standing back to watch him die.' Nick Bullock was a prison officer working in a maximum-security jail with some of Britain's most notorious criminals. Trapped in a world of aggression and fear, he felt frustrated and alone. Then he discovered the mountains. Making up for lost time, Bullock soon became one of Britain's best climbers, learning his trade in the mountains of Scotland and Wales, and travelling from Pakistan to Peru in his search for new routes and a new way of seeing the world - and ultimately an escape route from his life inside. Told that no one ever leaves the service - the security, the stability, the 'job for life' - Bullock focused his existence on a single goal: to walk free, with no shackles, into a mountain life. Echoes is a powerful and compelling exploration of freedom, and what it means to live life on your own terms.

Selected Climbs: Mont Blanc & the Aiguilles Rouges presents the best rock climbs in the Mont Blanc range and on the Aiguilles Rouges, from F4 to F6a+. The selection is based on purely hedonistic criteria, including the beauty of the cliff, the variety of the climbing and the quality of the rock. The emphasis is on enjoyable climbs with easy access and descents. The routes cover a variety of rock types, climbing styles and protection (natural and fixed). All the routes are of moderate difficulty and can be done comfortably in a day without the need to carry heavy or bulky gear. Written by local climbers Jean-Louis Laroche and Florence Lelong, this selection of sixty climbs on forty summits in seventeen areas around the Chamonix valley features established classics and recent additions. Included are Marchand de Sable on the Tour Rouge, the Rebuffat Route on the Aiguille du Midi, and the Frison-Roche route of the south-east face of the Brevent, plus many more. Each route features technical notes, a detailed topo and route description, and photos illustrating the climb's unique character.

In 1985 mountain guide Martin Moran achieved the first completion of all 277 Munros* in a single winter with the support and companionship of his wife Joy. Their success was a feat of dedicated mountaineering and effective teamwork through the storms, snows and avalanches of an epic winter season in the Scottish Highlands. Martin's account of the winter journey became a classic mountain narrative, combining his passionate enthusiasm for the mountains with humorous insights into a marriage put to the test through three months of living in a camper van. It was described as 'the best guidebook to the Munros' by mountain writer Jim Perrin. The book inspired many other climbers and runners to pick up the gauntlet in pursuit of new feats of endurance on Scotland's hills, and is now reissued with full colour photographs plus an introductory update by the author on how the 'Munros in Winter' changed his life.

We all know that climbing is a headgame, and many climbers recognise that their mindset is holding them back. But what psychological skills do you need for climbing, and how do you develop them? If you have ever wanted to learn how to climb with more confidence, to learn how to stick to a training plan, or to understand how to tap into flow, then this book is for you. Split into three sections, covering getting started on a mental skills training programme, fixing problems in your climbing caused by anxiety, and finessing your mental skills, this book provides clear explanations and practical exercises to improve your mindset for climbing. You'll learn to analyse your mental strengths and weaknesses, set effective goals, change habits, overcome fear of falling, fear of failing, fear of injury and social anxieties affecting climbers' performance. Chapters on confidence, focusing skills, imagery and visualisation, and problem solving and creativity in your climbing are all written in a practical and easy to understand format, so you can incorporate these skills into your climbing training. There is also a section on mental wellbeing for climbers, with hints and tips on healthy perfectionism, as well as mental health. This book draws on the latest in climbing and sport psychology research, and translates it into practical accessible ideas and exercises for climbers at all levels of the sport.

Recent years have witnessed a surge in the number of via ferrata routes set up in the iconic mountains of the French Alps. With routes set on or near many classics including the massifs of Mont Blanc, the Vanoise and the Queyras, this guide shows the best of what is now available. The 66 routes in this guidebook are grouped by area - Geneva and the Northern Alps, Chambery, the Tarentaise and Maurienne valleys, Grenoble and Briancon - and run the full gamut of challenge, from very easy, protected routes suitable for children, through to extremely exposed and technical routes for experienced ferrataists only. Everything you need to know to take up this exciting sport is covered here, including techniques and equipment required and glossary of specialist terminology, and all the routes are graded for difficulty, exposure and seriousness. Routes are illustrated by topo diagrams on colour photographs, and simple sketch maps. Those used to the older Italian routes will find these French routes quite different, closer to scrambling or rock climbing and often seeking out the most vertigo-inducing terrain. But most routes should be within the reach of any strong hillwalker and protection is high and well maintained."