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Books > Sport & Leisure > Sports & outdoor recreation > Active outdoor pursuits > Climbing & mountaineering
Lord Purdey was shaking with anger. 'Bring back the lynx? Over my dead body!' The environmental protestors murmured, and Rory stepped forward. 'Your hunting has destroyed our hills and left them treeless wastes, devoid of wildlife. It's time that changed.' 'Listen, you lentil-eating cat lover,' Purdey barked through the megaphone, 'men like me own Scotland. If we want to kill anything that moves and turn the whole damn place into a theme park, we'll do it.' Someone from the group of protestors hurled a turnip. It struck Purdey and he crumpled to the ground. Just as the archaic class system he represents must eventually fall, Angus thought with a grin. In his first two bestselling books, The Last Hillwalker and Bothy Tales, John D. Burns invited readers to join him in the hills and wild places of Scotland. In Sky Dance, he returns to that world to ask fundamental questions about how we relate to this northern landscape - while raising a laugh or two along the way. Anyone who has gazed at the majesty of the Scottish mountains will know this place and want to return to it. Now, as wild land is threatened like never before, it's time we asked ourselves what kind of future we want for the Highlands.
"Glacier Mountaineering" provides the knowledge and skills needed to safely and self-sufficiently navigate over glacier terrain. Hundreds of hilarious and helpful illustrations by Mike Clelland complement the clear and concise text by Andy Tyson. Providing critical instruction for anyone planning to travel over glacier country--from the Cascades to the Rockies to Denali--this book will guide and entertain readers through glacier anatomy, equipment, route finding, and rescue techniques.
Voytek Kurtyka is one of the greatest alpinists of all time. Born in 1947, he was one of the leading lights of the Polish golden age of mountaineering that redefined Himalayan climbing in the 1970s and 1980s. His visionary approach to climbing resulted in many renowned ascents, such as the complete Broad Peak traverse, the 'night-naked' speed climbs of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma and, above all, the alpine-style first ascent of the west face of Gasherbrum IV. Dubbed the 'climb of the century', his route on GIV with the Austrian Robert Schauer is - as of 2017 - unrepeated. His most frequent climbing partners were alpine legends of their time: Polish Himalayan giant Jerzy Kukuczka, Swiss mountain guide Erhard Loretan and British alpinist Alex MacIntyre. After repeated requests to accept the Piolets d'Or lifetime achievement award (the Oscars of the climbing world), Kurtyka finally accepted the honour in the spring of 2016. A fiercely private individual, he has declined countless invitations for interviews, lectures and festival appearances, but he has agreed to collaborate with internationally renowned and award-winning author Bernadette McDonald on this long-awaited biography. Art of Freedom is a profound and moving profile of one of the international climbing world's most respected, complex and reclusive mountaineers.
In Continental Divide, a Banff Prize-winner tells the history of American mountaineering through four centuries of landmark climbs and first ascents. Maurice Isserman traces the evolving social, cultural and political roles mountains played in shaping the country.
The start of a love affair: 'I kicked off my shoes and prepared to climb in stocking feet, aware of an enormous sense of occasion as I laid hands on the rock and stepped up on the first rounded hold. It was not a hard climb but that was unimportant. I felt instinctively at home and at the finish experienced such a surge of happy elation that I knew then I was committed to climbing.' Martin Boysen's passion for crags and mountains springs from his deep love of nature and a strong sense of adventure. From his early days on rock as a Kent schoolboy after the war, he was soon among the most gifted climbers of his or any generation, famed for his silky technique. Boysen made a huge contribution to British rock climbing, especially in North Wales; he discovered Gogarth in the 1960s and climbed some of the best new routes of his era: Nexus on Dinas Mot, The Skull on Cyrn Las and the magisterial Capital Punishment on Ogwen's Suicide Wall. For more than two decades, Boysen was also one of Britain's leading mountaineers. A crucial member of Sir Chris Bonington's team that climbed the South Face of Annapurna in 1970, Boysen was also part of Bonington's second summit team on the South West face of Everest. In 1976 he made the first ascent of Trango Tower with Joe Brown. Along the way, Boysen climbed with some of the most important figures in the history of the sport, not just stars like Bonington and Brown, but those who make climbing so rich and intriguing, like Nea Morin and the brilliant but doomed Gary Hemming. He joined Hamish MacInnes hunting gold in Ecuador, doubled for Clint Eastwood on the North Face of the Eiger and worked on director Fred Zinnemann's last movie. Wry, laconic and self-deprecating, Martin Boysen's Hanging On is an insider's account of British climbing's golden age.
In 1924, George Mallory and his companion Andrew Irvine disappeared during a valiant bid to reach the world's highest summit. In May 1999 Mallory's body was found, partly resolving the riddle of whether they succeeded in their bid, 29 years ahead of Hillary and Tenzing. Peter and Leni Gillman assess the motives and goals of this inspirational yet complex figure, whose life was dominated by his two conflicting passions: his love for his wife Ruth, and Everest - forbidding, unclimbed, 'the wildest dream', as he called it. Drawing on family letters and helped by surviving members of the family, Peter and Leni Gillman present a powerful and affecting portrait of a man torn between competing desires, and the fatal choice he ultimately made.
Combining high quality images and written text, this illustrated book reflects upon the fascinating life of Ines Papert. The fourtime World Champion ice climber is always on the lookout for new challenges and even when minor setbacks appear, she doesn't allow herself to be thrown off course. In addition to training and preparing for her 2012 Baffin Island expedition, she collaborated with author Johanna Stockl to produce this exciting illustrated book. Not only is Papert a motivated expedition teammate, she is also the family-oriented mother of her energetic son Manu. Ines Papert has won the Ice Climbing World Championship four times. Today, it is the world's steepest walls and most exposed faces that fuel her passion.
9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes - navigation through the maze of advice for the self-coached climber 9 out of 10 climbers are stuck. They are stuck on the same things. Some of the things that hold climbers back from improving their climbing standard are the same as they were twenty years ago: motivation, managing time, and not being able to analyse and correct their own basic technical or tactical errors. But they are also stuck for a new set of reasons. Twenty years ago, the problem was that no one knew how to train for climbing. Information was scarce and couldn't travel fast among the participants. Today, it's the opposite problem. Book after book lists techniques for climbing, exercises for climbing, tips for climbing. Navigating this barrage of information, filtering out the irrelevant and homing in on what matters to your life, your climbing and your circumstances has been the limiting step for today's climber. This book is the first to present the science of improving at climbing in a way that will actually help you make confident decisions and stay focused on the things that will make the biggest difference. Dave Macleod has crystallised 16 years experience as a world class climber, sport scientist and renowned coach into an accessible and thought provoking guide to improving at rock climbing.
Chris Bonington Mountaineer is a photographic autobiography, documenting over sixty years of climbing the world's most beautiful and challenging mountains. Few climbers can match Bonington's climbing achievements. He is one of the most accomplished and respected climbers in the world. In this 2016 revised edition, which features over 500 photographs, we are given a frank perspective into the surreal, majestic and occasionally tragic corners of his incredible mountaineering career. Whether in the Arctic, the jungle or on an 8,000-metre peak, Bonington's stunning photography and engaging conversational prose take us through the detail of daily life on expedition, the action of the climbing and the grandeur of the mountains. From his foundations - climbing in Snowdonia, the English Lake District, and the Highlands of Scotland - Bonington takes us to the Alps and on his expedition apprenticeship in 1960s Nepal. This quickly leads to trips to Patagonia, the Karakoram, the Amazon, Baffin Island and the River Nile, before the meat of his career on the big walls and 8,000-metre peaks of the Himalaya - with his leadership of the expeditions that made the first ascents of the south face of Annapurna in 1970 and the south-west face of Everest in 1975, and culminating in his own ascent of Everest in 1985. The greatest challenge and survival story of all is his first ascent and epic descent of The Ogre in Pakistan with Doug Scott. Bonington's undying hunger for adventure leads to later exploratory trips to Greenland, India and Morocco, and a return to the scene of one of his defining first ascents, the Old Man of Hoy, with world-class adventure climber Leo Houlding. The result is a penetrating insight into the motivations and fears of a driven climber who set out year after year from a life of comfort and success to test himself amongst the world's most savage mountains. Chris Bonington Mountaineer is a must for anyone with a passion for exploration, mountains or climbing.
Imagine an alien came down to Earth, stuck a probe into a climber's brain - one who'd been climbing for over thirty years - and then transmogrified the contents into a big book of climbing tips. Well, 1001 Climbing Tips by Andy Kirkpatrick is just such a book. This is no regular instruction manual - it's much more useful than that. This is a massive collection of all those little tips that make a real difference when at the crag, in the mountains, or when you're planning your next big trip. It's for anyone who hangs off stuff, or just hangs around in the mountains. These tips are based on three decades of climbing obsession, as well as nineteen ascents of El Cap, numerous Alpine north faces, trips to the polar ice caps, and many other scary climbs and expeditions. The following areas are covered: Basics, Safety, Big Wall, Ice, Mixed, Mountain, Training, and Stuff.
Sixth edition of this classic trekking guide to the Everest region of Nepal's Himalaya. Ranging from lush terraced fields to the highest mountain on earth, the scenery is breathtaking. There are trekking possibilities to suit all budgets - from independent trekkers on a shoestring staying in simple lodges with Sherpa families to travellers on guided treks with every luxury provided. This practical guide includes detailed route maps covering not only the classic treks but also the wild routes: *Everest expedition route *Rolwaling *Trekking from Lukla *Salpa-Arun *The Gokyo trek *High passes *Trekking peaks - including Mera and Island Peak Getting to Nepal l Kathmandu - trek preparations and what to see Where to stay and eat l Health and safety Employing a guide or porter in Nepal
'The idea of owning anything except the experience is hubris.' Unknown Pleasures is a collection of works by the climber and award-winning author Andy Kirkpatrick. Obsessed with climbing and addicted to writing, Kirkpatrick is a master storyteller. Covering subjects as diverse as climbing, relationships, fatherhood, mental health and the media, it is easy to read, sometimes difficult to digest, and impossible to forget. One moment he is attempting a rare solo ascent of Norway's Troll Wall, the next he is surrounded by the TV circus while climbing Moonlight Buttress with the BBC's The One Show presenter Alex Jones. Yosemite's El Capitan is ever-present; he climbs it alone - strung out for weeks, and he climbs it with his thirteen-year-old daughter Ella - her first big wall. His eye for observation and skilled wordcraft make for laugh-out-loud funny moments, while in more hard-hitting pieces he is unflinchingly honest about past and present love and relationships, and pulls no punches with an alternative perspective of our place in the world. Unknown Pleasures is Andy Kirkpatrick at his brilliant best.
The slate quarries near Llanberis have become one of the most popular climbing spots in North Wales for climbers looking for sport routes, or immaculate slab climbing. The development started with the slate boom of the 1980s when the area became famous for immaculate slabs of purple slate with bold run-out routes. Most of these routes are still there in their original style and many have become classics and much sought-after trad ticks. More recently the area has been developed with a multitude of super sport routes from short single pitches to huge multi-pitch extravaganzas. This guide is a celebration of all of those styles of slate climbing. It is a comprehensive guidebook covering all the routes which is a little unusual for a Rockfax, although we have produced such books before.
Mountaineering in the Swiss Alps presents a selection of classic routes in the main Swiss climbing areas that have forged Switzerland's reputation as a mountaineering paradise. Featured are over thirty climbs, ranging from relatively easy normal routes to more challenging itineraries. All are within the capabilities of most mountaineers and provide an excellent introduction to the wide variety of climbing that Switzerland has to offer. Every route, whether it is a pure rock climb, a mixed ridge, a big north face or a long traverse, was chosen for the beauty of the surroundings and the quality of the climbing. Some are on world famous peaks that every mountaineer aspires to climb, such as the Matterhorn (Mont Cervin), the Breithorn and the Monch; others are on lesser-known summits and will delight those who like getting away from the beaten track. Written by mountaineer and author Stephane Maire, each route features technical notes, a route description and topo, and photos illustrating the climb's unique character.
Mountaineering in the Ecrins Massif showcases the Ecrins' most beautiful summits through a selection of the area's best lower grade snow, rock and mixed climbs. Authors Frederic Chevaillot, Paul Grobel and Jean-Rene Minelli have chosen 25 classic Ecrins routes - graded between F and AD - that have come to be regarded as classics due to their quality, their altitude or, simply, their easy access. These routes provide the essential pleasures of mountaineering: getting off the beaten track, enjoying the pure mountain air and delighting in the charms of the high mountains. Most of these routes are at the boundary between hiking and technical alpinism and should be within the capabilities of any fit hiker-mountaineer. Routes and peaks featured include: the Aiguille du Goleon; the north ridge of the Aiguille Dibona; the south ridge of Pic Coolidge; the north-east face of the Meije Orientale; and the traverse of the Barre des Ecrins ridge, plus many more. Each route features a detailed and comprehensive route description, a sketch map and a route summary detailing the start point, difficulty, timings, height gain, best time of year and the gear required. A conscious decision was made to limit the selection to relatively easy climbs, and so the routes described in this book - a mere fraction of the climbs in the magnificent Ecrins Massif - should be within the capabilities of almost all mountaineers.
A competent and up-to-date instruction book of techniques needed for climbing big aid routes.
This is theengrossing story of the seasons the author spent climbing 4000m mountains inthe different regions of the Alps. It is also about the people with whom heclimbed who found time out of their day-to-day routine for this extraordinaryactivity. He explains the reason for this fascination which resulted in theirspending decades pursuing their climbing objectives. The words and photos both encapsulate thealpine experience in all its beauty and suffering, pain and exhilaration,danger and humour which is shared with each climbing partner and open to anyonewith the same commitment. The author believes that climbing all the 4000mmountains is a realistic and achievable objective that will take mountaineersinto much wild and beautiful terrain. These are not just snow plods: everymountain has a worthwhile route on it and even those with long glacierapproaches can become superb ascents and descents on ski in an alpine spring. The many photos taken over the years were areminder of details that had escaped notice in the journals kept at the time.These numerous stunning and inspiring photographs tell their own story andenrich the author's account. The book is dedicated to all his climbing partnerswho made the completion of the quest possible.
"Winter Climbing+" is the third in the critically acclaimed series of instructional books from Rockfax. Written by two of the UK's most respected winter climbers, "Winter Climbing+" takes a positive approach to the climbing discipline that has traditionally had its delights obscured by its dangers.Filled with inspirational full colour photographs throughout, and a clear, concise text that quickly unravels the mysteries of winter climbing, "Winter Climbing+" wastes no time in revealing shortcuts to the skills that make a sound winter climber. The book assumes the reader has no prior-knowledge of winter climbing and starts with the basic skills and equipment that are needed to safely head into the hills. The book progresses gradually to the more subtle movement skills and tactical elements that allow for rapid progress into higher levels of difficulty.Describing the full range of activities covered by the title, "Winter Climbing+" takes a detailed look at both ice and mixed climbing, examining both the traditional mixed climbing skills as well as those needed for modern sport mixed now widely practised. The book follows the style set in previous titles by including an in-depth look at the all-important psychological aspects of the sport, and finishes with a guide to major winter climbing destinations.
The annual "Journal of the Scottish Mountaineering Club" has maintained a continuous record of mountain activities in Scotland since 1890 - 116 years of unbroken publication. This year's journal includes an article celebrating the centenary of the Ladies Scottish Climbing Club. Guy Robertson describes climbing Centurion on Ben Nevis in extraordinary winter conditions. John Mackenzie tells of winter pioneering in Glen Strathfarrar. Gordon Smith gives an account of his 'Dangerous Obsession' with a route on the Grandes Jorasses thirty years ago. Ole Eistrup describes climbing a new route on the Monch with Dougal Haston shortly before his untimely death. There is also a first hand account of what it is like to suffer from Lyme disease. And of course there are all the details of the latest new climbs north of the border.
*** 'Silvia Vasquez-Lavado is a warrior. I'm in awe of her strength and courage' - Selena Gomez 'An incredibly powerful story' Sunday Independent 'In the Shadow of the Mountain has all the elements a great memoir requires - a strong voice, cinematic prose, a hero to root for - in essence, an extraordinary story about an extraordinary woman's life' - San Francisco Chronicle 'Silvia Vasquez-Lavado is a woman possessed of uncommon strength, rare compassion, and a ferocious stubbornness to not allow the trauma of her childhood to destroy her life' - Elizabeth Gilbert, author of Eat, Pray, Love 'Powerful' - New York Times YOU DON'T CONQUER A MOUNTAIN. YOU SURRENDER TO IT ONE STEP AT A TIME. Despite a high-flying career, Silvia Vasquez-Lavado knew she was hanging by a thread. Deep in the throes of alcoholism, and hiding her sexuality from her family, she was repressing the abuse she'd suffered as a child. When her mother called her home to Peru, she knew something finally had to change. It did. Silvia began to climb. Something about the sheer size of the mountains, the vast emptiness and the nearness of death, woke her up. And then, she took her biggest pain to the biggest mountain: Everest. The 'Mother of the World' allows few to reach her summit, but Silvia didn't go alone. Trekking with her to Base Camp, were five troubled young women on an odyssey that helped each confront their personal trauma, and whose strength and community propelled Silvia forward... Beautifully written and deeply moving, In the Shadow of the Mountain is a remarkable story of compassion, humility, and strength, inspiring us all to find have faith in our own heroism and resilience.
A bank of clouds was assembling on the not-so-distant horizon, but journalist-mountaineer Jon Krakauer, standing on the summit of Mt. Everest, saw nothing that "suggested that a murderous storm was bearing down." He was wrong. The storm, which claimed five lives and left countless more--including Krakauer's--in guilt-ridden disarray, would also provide the impetus for Into Thin Air, Krakauer's epic account of the May 1996 disaster.
This is the first book to explore in depth the science of climbing and mountaineering. Written by a team of leading international sport scientists, clinicians and climbing practitioners, it covers the full span of technical disciplines, including rock climbing, ice climbing, indoor climbing and mountaineering, across all scientific fields from physiology and biomechanics to history, psychology, medicine, motor control, skill acquisition, and engineering. Striking a balance between theory and practice, this uniquely interdisciplinary study provides practical examples and illustrative data to demonstrate the strategies that can be adopted to promote safety, best practice, injury prevention, recovery and mental preparation. Divided into six parts, the book covers all essential aspects of the culture and science of climbing and mountaineering, including: physiology and medicine biomechanics motor control and learning psychology equipment and technology. Showcasing the latest cutting-edge research and demonstrating how science translates into practice, The Science of Climbing and Mountaineering is essential reading for all advanced students and researchers of sport science, biomechanics and skill acquisition, as well as all active climbers and adventure sport coaches.
BRITAIN'S GREATEST CLIMBER. 'He is the David Attenborough of mountaineering . . . Bonington's most personal memoir yet.' The Times. 'This is a compelling tale of fortitude and endurance.' - The Sunday Times 'He is the icon of British climbing.' The Daily Mirror Sir Chris Bonington memoir Ascent will chart not only his many triumphs in the climbing world - such as the Eiger, and the Himalaya - but also the struggles he has faced in his life bringing up a family, and maintaining a successful and loving marriage over the decades of travelling the world to conquer mountains. He has undertaken nineteen Himalayan expeditions, including four to Mount Everest which he climbed in 1985 at the age of fifty, and has made many first ascents in the Alps and greater ranges of the world. Along the way we will be fascinated by his many daring climbs, near-death adventures, and the many luminaries of the mountain fraternity he has climbed with, and in some cases - witness their deaths on the rock. The mercurial Dougal Haston; the legendary-tough Don Whillans, the philosopher of the rock Stephen Venables, and the enigmatic Doug Scott, plus many more - this will be an expert's opinion on the past sixty years of British/ world mountaineering. In Ascent Chris also discusses his first wife (Wendy) who tragically passed away after a long battle with motor neuron disease - his many years of caring for her, and then in his twilight years deciding to return to an iconic climb from his past - The Old Man of Hoy - to summit at the age of 80 years of age. He has now also found love again amidst the sadness and grief. It is a truly inspirational tale. Ascent will be a memoir like no other. Not only a cerebral narrative on what it takes to conquer fear, and learn/ develop the technical skills necessary to climb the world's greatest peaks; what it is like to survive in places no human being can ultimately reside in for longer than a few months at very high altitude, but also how one overcomes emotional obstacles, too, and rediscover what drives us on to happiness.
A guide to reaching the summit of every country in Europe - driving, walking and climbing routes to the tops of 50 countries in Europe. Detailed route descriptions, sketch maps - advice on transport, seasons, grading and gear. Heading to the highest point of any European country is an experience not to be missed. The continent has a wealth of adventure and a huge variety of dazzling scenery awaiting the walker and climber. And each of Europe's 50 countries celebrates its national high point in a different way. This guide brings together detailed route descriptions for those seeking to get to the highest peaks in countries from Liechtenstein to Latvia and Germany to Greece. Whether attempting to climb individual high points or complete all 50 ascents, these routes are crammed with some of the most stunning landscapes and exciting terrain that Europe has to offer. From the frozen tundra of the Arctic Circle to the arid plains of the Sierra Nevada, this book contains something for everyone with routes ranging from afternoon strolls in Malta and Moldova to three-day mountaineering ascents on classic Alpine routes such as Mont Blanc and Dufourspitze. |
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