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Books > Sport & Leisure > Sports & outdoor recreation > Active outdoor pursuits > Climbing & mountaineering
Martin Moran was a man of the mountains, inspiring both as pioneer and leader. His is a story of life-changing adventures and dramatic, often near-death experiences, told with humour and verve.
On 30 January 1981 Joe Tasker and Ade Burgess stood at 24,000 feet on the West Ridge of Mount Everest. Below them were their companions, some exhausted, some crippled by illness, all virtually incapacitated. Further progress seemed impossible. Everest the Cruel Way is Joe Tasker's story of an attempt to climb the highest mountain on earth - an attempt which pushed a group of Britain's finest mountaineers to their limits. The goal had been to climb Mount Everest at its hardest: via the infamous West Ridge, without supplementary oxygen and in winter. Tasker's epic account vividly describes experiences that no climber had previously endured. Close up and personal, it is a gripping account of day-to-day life on expedition and of the struggle to live at high altitude. Joe Tasker was one of Britain's best mountaineers. He was a pioneer of lightweight, alpine-style climbing in the Greater Ranges and had a special talent for writing. He died, along with his friend Peter Boardman, high on Everest in 1982 while attempting a new and unclimbed line. Both men were superb mountaineers and talented writers.
Kalymnos must be one of the world's best known sport climbing destinations and with good reason - friendly locals, glorious weather, a picturesque Aegean island setting and, of course, the truly fantastic climbing. There is approaching 3000 climbs at the last count and many of them are of impeccable quality. Climbers from all over the world now visit the place and its reputation has grown into a 'must visit' venue. There are many fantastic harder climbs but there is also a remarkable assemblage of high quality climbs in the ever-popular 4a to 6b range. This new Rockfax guidebook will cover all the climbing in the usual Rockfax style - huge phototopos, big maps, inspiring action photos and bang up-to-date as well. It is an update of the Kalymnos app version which has been available for a year and will be available in print and app format.
These 18 sport climbing crags are, with the one exception of Tyddyn Hywel, situated between junctions 16 and 31 on the A55 and a short hop from the expressway. They are only one and a half hours from Manchester and three quarters of an hour by car from Llanberis and Gogarth. Easy route finding, technical climbing, and bolted routes maes for a fun day out. It's a great way to bag a few routes on the way back from Anglesey or Snowdonia or enjoy a full day of varied and fun climbing with short walk-ins. The new third edition features 157 new routes, 6 new crags and 8 new sectors. All 437 routes (from F2 to F8c, including a handful of trad) are accessible single pitch sport venues with varied aspects and are either situated a short walk from car parking or are accessible by rail and bike.
The Alpine Journal is the oldest mountaineering periodical in the world, created as a record of mountain exploration and culture, and its 153rd publication celebrates some of the outstanding ascents of 2015. Two of Britain's best younger alpinists, Will Sim and Ben Silvestre, describe hard first ascents in Alaska, while a third, Andy Houseman, has an account of the first ascent of Link Sar West in the Karakoram, beautifully illustrated by Jon Griffith. The celebrated Italian mountaineer Simone Moro details his first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, after scores of attempts by himself and many others. There is also Mick Fowler's account of the first ascent of Gave Ding in far western Nepal, exploratory mountaineering of the highest order. The Journal also records exploration in the Andes, Pakistan, Zanskar, Tajikistan and two expeditions to Greenland. The Journal also has some exceptional writing on more cultural topics. Abbie Garrington looks at George Mallory's correspondence with his admirer Marjorie Holmes, while we also publish for the first time a long and revealing letter Jack Longland wrote from Everest in 1933. Jim Milledge describes the career of Stanhope Speer, pioneer in mountain medicine and noted spiritualist, while John Porter recalls his months spent working for Ken Wilson, climbing publisher and force of nature.
BRITAIN'S GREATEST CLIMBER. 'He is the David Attenborough of mountaineering . . . Bonington's most personal memoir yet.' The Times. 'This is a compelling tale of fortitude and endurance.' - The Sunday Times 'He is the icon of British climbing.' The Daily Mirror Sir Chris Bonington memoir Ascent will chart not only his many triumphs in the climbing world - such as the Eiger, and the Himalaya - but also the struggles he has faced in his life bringing up a family, and maintaining a successful and loving marriage over the decades of travelling the world to conquer mountains. He has undertaken nineteen Himalayan expeditions, including four to Mount Everest which he climbed in 1985 at the age of fifty, and has made many first ascents in the Alps and greater ranges of the world. Along the way we will be fascinated by his many daring climbs, near-death adventures, and the many luminaries of the mountain fraternity he has climbed with, and in some cases - witness their deaths on the rock. The mercurial Dougal Haston; the legendary-tough Don Whillans, the philosopher of the rock Stephen Venables, and the enigmatic Doug Scott, plus many more - this will be an expert's opinion on the past sixty years of British/ world mountaineering. In Ascent Chris also discusses his first wife (Wendy) who tragically passed away after a long battle with motor neuron disease - his many years of caring for her, and then in his twilight years deciding to return to an iconic climb from his past - The Old Man of Hoy - to summit at the age of 80 years of age. He has now also found love again amidst the sadness and grief. It is a truly inspirational tale. Ascent will be a memoir like no other. Not only a cerebral narrative on what it takes to conquer fear, and learn/ develop the technical skills necessary to climb the world's greatest peaks; what it is like to survive in places no human being can ultimately reside in for longer than a few months at very high altitude, but also how one overcomes emotional obstacles, too, and rediscover what drives us on to happiness.
'Will undoubtedly become a classic narrative of this scenically magnificent, legend-rich and geologically unique part of Scotland' Cameron McNeish, The Herald Rising a kilometre out of the storm-scoured waters around Scotland's Isle of Skye is a dark battlement of pinnacles and ridgelines: the Cuillin. Plagued by ferocious weather and built from rock that tears skin and confounds compasses, a crossing of the Cuillin is the toughest mountaineering expedition in the British Isles. But the traverse is only part of its lure. Hewn from the innards of an ancient volcano, this mountain range stands like a crown on an island drenched in intrigue. While nineteenth-century climbers flocked to the Alps, the ridge lay untrodden and unyielding. When a generation of mountaineers did come, they found a remarkable prize: the last peaks of Britain to be climbed - peaks that would be named after those who climbed them. Along the way, many others, from artists and poets to mystics and wanderers, have been lured by the Cuillin's haunting beauty and magic. Those who have been seduced by the deadly magic of these mountains attest to the complexity of humans' relationship with the intrigue of our wildest, most dangerous places. The Black Ridge is a journey through the history and into the heights of the Cuillin of Skye - from the ridge's violent birth to the tales of its pioneers, its thrills, its myths and its monsters. From a night spent in a cave beneath its highest peak to the ascent of its most infamous pinnacle, this is an adventure on foot through all seasons across the most mesmerising mountain range in Britain.
More and more people around the world are discovering how great climbing is, both indoors and outdoors. The Climbing Bible by internationally renowned climbers and coaches Martin Mobråten and Stian Christophersen is a comprehensive guide to help you train effectively to become a better climber. The authors have been climbing coaches for a number of years. Based on their own extensive experience and research, this book collates the best European training techniques into one book with information on how to specifically train for the technical, physical and mental performance factors in climbing – including endurance, power, motivation, fear of falling, and much more. It also deals with tactics, fingerboarding and finger strength, general training and injury prevention, injuries related to climbing, and training plans. It is illustrated with 400 technique and action photos, and features stories from top climbers as well as a foreword by climber and bestselling author Jo Nesbø. The Climbing Bible will help and motivate you to improve and develop as a climber and find even more joy in this fantastic sport.
This, the 152nd publication of the Alpine Journal, takes you on a selection of significant first ascents of 2014, from Antarctica to Greenland, Europe to High Asia; on adventures in rock climbing, mountaineering and exploration of the high mountains of the continents. The volume includes the first ascent of Gasherbrum V, exploration of a hard-to-reach granite cirque in Alaska, hard climbing on unexplored cliffs of Greenland only reachable by sailboat, and descriptions of still-unclimbed peaks in Tibet and South America. Area notes from local experts in mountainous regions around the world give inspiration as well as the recent developments.History and science are, as always, well attended and include the history of mountain guiding in the Golden Age of mountaineering; new light on what might have happened on K2's first ascent; stereographic photography in the Victorian era, and the prevalence of algae in the mountains. To celebrate the first ascent of the Matterhorn, Robin Campbell has curated and discussed a collection of early drawings of the mountain. Roger Birnstingl gives us previously untranslated letters from the scandalised Italians on the race for the first ascent of the Cervino; Ian Smith tells us about Whymper in the aftermath of the first ascent; John Cleare goes back 50 years in his story of the centenary ascent with the BBC.
The Great Sea Cliffs of Scotland is an anthology of outrageous climbing adventures from twenty-six of the most extraordinary sea cliffs across Scotland. From the farthest flung sandstone sea stacks of the northern isles, to the granite playground of the Aberdeenshire coast, via the intricate archipelago of the Hebrides, all the major sea cliffs on the Scottish mainland and surrounding islands are covered in five distinct sections. Each area is described in rich detail and accompanied by personal accounts that offer an intimate perspective of the distinctive nature of this unique environment, and the generous rewards for those willing to accept the challenge of these seemingly improbable lines. With contributions from some of the most renowned pioneers and activists in the field of climbing, this compilation traces the remarkable history of Scottish sea cliff climbing and offers a glimpse of its future. Original poetry by Stuart Campbell complements each introductory section, and exclusive images from some of the UK's most distinguished photographers reveal the cliffs in high resolution with unique clarity and vibrance, capturing the drama and scale of these magnificent seascapes. Full list of contributors: Ross Jones, Tim Rankin, Guy Robertson, Andy Inglis, Lou Reynolds, Dave MacLeod, Wilson Moir, Grant Farquhar, Simon Nadin, Murdoch Jamieson, Rob Christie, Blair Fyffe, Steve McClure, Rick Campbell, Kevin Howett, Karin Magog, Alice Irmak Thompson, Pete Herd, Ian Taylor, Tess Fryer, Mick Fowler, Simon Richardson and Jason Currie. Original poetry by Stuart Campbell. Foreword by Julian Lines, author of Boardman-Tasker winning Tears of the Dawn, and the UK's most prolific deep-water solo climber.
Dave Gregory has been climbing for over forty years and writing short stories for nearly as long. This collection contains both fact and fiction triggered by that experience. The stories cover a broad spread over a wide canvas.
For nearly 50 years, Climbing Magazine's goal has been to inspire and entertain with compelling coverage of climbing in all its forms, from bouldering to the big walls, trad rock to sport climbing, ice climbing to mountaineering. Vantage Point offers a collection of the most inspiring, thought-provoking, and humorous stories featured in Climbing over the past five decades-an anthology that will move you to grab your chalkbag, rope, and harness.
*** 'Silvia Vasquez-Lavado is a warrior. I'm in awe of her strength and courage' - Selena Gomez 'An incredibly powerful story' Sunday Independent 'In the Shadow of the Mountain has all the elements a great memoir requires - a strong voice, cinematic prose, a hero to root for - in essence, an extraordinary story about an extraordinary woman's life' - San Francisco Chronicle 'Silvia Vasquez-Lavado is a woman possessed of uncommon strength, rare compassion, and a ferocious stubbornness to not allow the trauma of her childhood to destroy her life' - Elizabeth Gilbert, author of Eat, Pray, Love 'Powerful' - New York Times YOU DON'T CONQUER A MOUNTAIN. YOU SURRENDER TO IT ONE STEP AT A TIME. Despite a high-flying career, Silvia Vasquez-Lavado knew she was hanging by a thread. Deep in the throes of alcoholism, and hiding her sexuality from her family, she was repressing the abuse she'd suffered as a child. When her mother called her home to Peru, she knew something finally had to change. It did. Silvia began to climb. Something about the sheer size of the mountains, the vast emptiness and the nearness of death, woke her up. And then, she took her biggest pain to the biggest mountain: Everest. The 'Mother of the World' allows few to reach her summit, but Silvia didn't go alone. Trekking with her to Base Camp, were five troubled young women on an odyssey that helped each confront their personal trauma, and whose strength and community propelled Silvia forward... Beautifully written and deeply moving, In the Shadow of the Mountain is a remarkable story of compassion, humility, and strength, inspiring us all to find have faith in our own heroism and resilience.
In early 1978, an extraordinary new invention for rock climbers was featured on the BBC television science show Tomorrow's World. It was called the 'Friend', and it not only made the sport safer, it helped push the limits of the possible. The company that made them was called Wild Country, the brainchild of Mark Vallance. Within six months, Vallance was selling Friends in sixteen countries. Wild Country would go on to develop much of the gear that transformed climbing in the 1980s. Mark Vallance's influence on the outdoor world extends far beyond the company he founded. He owned and opened the influential retailer Outside in the Peak District and was part of the team that built The Foundry, Sheffield's premier climbing wall - the first modern climbing gym in Britain. He worked for the Peak District National Park and served on its board. He even found time to climb eight-thousand-metre peaks and the Nose on El Capitan. Diagnosed with Parkinson's disease in his mid fifties and robbed of his plans for retirement, Vallance found a new sense of purpose as a reforming president of the British Mountaineering Council. In Wild Country, Vallance traces his story, from childhood influences like Robin Hodgkin and Sir Jack Longland, to two years in Antarctica, where he was base commander of the UK's largest and most southerly scientific station at Halley Bay, before his fateful meeting with Ray Jardine, the man who invented Friends, in Yosemite. Trenchant, provocative and challenging, Wild Country is a remarkable personal story and a fresh perspective on the role of the outdoors in British life and the development of climbing in its most revolutionary phase. Mark Vallance (1945-2018), the man who made Friends.
Knots have been around for thousands of years – even Neolithic man tied the reef knot, clove hitch and running noose. There are several thousand knots in existence and an almost infinite number of variations. This reference manual and practical handbook presents over 200 of the most essential knots. All the key knot types are covered, including bends, hitches, bindings, loops, mats, plaits, rings and slings. You will find familiar knots, such as the simple overhand or thumb knot, and more challenging knots such as the seizing bend, boom hitch, Chinese button knot and variations of the square Turk’s head. Each set of instructions is accompanied by photographs taking you through every step of tying the knot. Includes a clear guide to the variety of cords and ropes; their breaking strengths, construction and application. Each one is clearly identified by its category of use: angling and fishing; boating and sailing; caving and climbing; and general purpose and outdoor pursuits, with easy-reference symbols denoting each knot’s use at the top of each page. Whether you are an eager beginner or a lifelong devotee of knot-tying, this will prove an absorbing and indispensable guide.
'Ever since I first set foot on rock at the tender age of seven years, climbing has been the most important thing in my life. In fact I would go so far as to say it is my reason for living and as long as I am able to climb I hope I will. It is from climbing I draw my inspiration for life.' On 14 June 1990, at Raven Tor in the Derbyshire Peak District, twenty-four-year-old Ben Moon squeezed his feet into a pair of rock shoes, tied in to his rope, chalked his fingers and pulled on to the wickedly overhanging, zebra-striped wall of limestone. Two minutes later he had made rock-climbing history with the first ascent of Hubble, now widely recognised as the world's first F9a. Born in the suburbs of London in 1966, Moon started rock climbing on the sandstone outcrops of Kent and Sussex. A pioneer in the sport-climbing revolution of the 1980s and a bouldering legend in the 1990s, he is one of the most iconic rock climbers in the sport's history, In Statement, Moon's official biography, award-winning writer Ed Douglas paints a portrait of a climbing visionary and dispels the myth of Moon as an anti-traditional climbing renegade. Interviews with Moon are complemented with insights from family and friends and extracts from magazines and personal diaries and letters.
Most of us can watch an old episode of the holiday programme Wish You Were Here without it having the life-changing effect that it had on postman Edward Buckingham. For Ed, a young man from humble origins in Cornwall, the draw of Kilimanjaro and the high mountains of the world would change his life forever. It would also very nearly end his life during a fall from high on Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain in the world. Drawn to high places, Ed embarked on a journey that would take him to the summit of the highest mountain on every continent. His seven summits actually involved ten summits - he climbed the highest summit in Western Europe, Mont Blanc, and the highest in Continental Europe, Mount Elbrus, as well as summiting Australia s Mount Kosciusko and the far more remote Papua New Guinea summit of Carstenz Pyramid, the highest point in Australasia. And, of course, Cho Oyu. In 7 Summits, Ed tells of hardship and near-death experiences on Cho Oyu, the sheer scale and suffering in being the first Cornishman to ascend Everest, as well as his final summit, Mount Vinson in Antarctica. Ed develops as a man throughout his quest. Always humble, working hard for the Royal Mail delivering post to fund his trips, on his early trip to Aconcagua and on his first attempt on Mont Blanc he is very much a novice mountaineer, but his passion for the outdoors and willingness to help his fellow climbers is always there. During his fifteen-year quest Ed's experience grows, particularly in the sub-Arctic of Alaska, where his ascent of Denali tested his stamina and equipment to the limit. At the culmination of his quest, he emerges as a capable climber, fit and strong and by sheer determination has become a world-class athlete, running full and ultra marathons, climbing mountains and delivering post.
1998 National Outdoor Book Award winner. How to tie 35 climbing knots: step-by-step illustrations, easy-to-follow directions, when to use and not to use, and expert advice on selection and care of ropes.
Shortlisted for the Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature. 'As I sat cradling the man's head, with his blood and brains sticking to my hands, I heard a voice - my own voice. It was asking me something. Asking how I had ended up like this, desperate and lost among people who thought nothing of caving in a man's head and then standing back to watch him die.' Nick Bullock was a prison officer working in a maximum-security jail with some of Britain's most notorious criminals. Trapped in a world of aggression and fear, he felt frustrated and alone. Then he discovered the mountains. Making up for lost time, Bullock soon became one of Britain's best climbers, learning his trade in the mountains of Scotland and Wales, and travelling from Pakistan to Peru in his search for new routes and a new way of seeing the world - and ultimately an escape route from his life inside. Told that no one ever leaves the service - the security, the stability, the 'job for life' - Bullock focused his existence on a single goal: to walk free, with no shackles, into a mountain life. Echoes is a powerful and compelling exploration of freedom, and what it means to live life on your own terms.
Edinburgh. 1898. on the cusp of the modern age. Caleb George Cash mountaineer, geographer, antiquarian and teacher stands at the rocky summit of Arthur’s Seat. His reason for standing there was to chart which mountains were visible from his point on the summit – The Arthurs. He came up with a list of twenty mountains (all over 100ft/300m high), including Schiehallion and Ben Lomond. Caleb’s list was first published in 1899, eight years after Munro published his list of mountains over 3000ft, and since then it has been all but forgotten. This book tells the story of how Caleb’s list came about and provides directions and route descriptions for those wishing to climb the mountains on the list. More than just a climbing book, this is also the story of a survivor. The author was diagnosed with AIDS at the age of 33, and becoming an ‘Arthurist’ has helped him carry on with life.
'Hand (man) wanted for long voyage in small boat. No pay, no prospects, not much pleasure.' So read the crew notice placed in the personal column of The Times by H.W. 'Bill' Tilman in the spring of 1959. This approach to selecting volunteers for a year-long voyage of 20,000 miles brought mixed seafaring experience: 'Osborne had crossed the Atlantic fifty-one times in the Queen Mary, playing double bass in the ship's orchestra'. With unclimbed ice-capped peaks and anchorages that could at best be described as challenging, the Southern Ocean island groups of Crozet and Kerguelen provided obvious destinations for Tilman and his fifty-year-old wooden pilot cutter Mischief. His previous attempt to land in the Crozet Islands had been abandoned when their only means of landing was carried away by a severe storm in the Southern Ocean. Back at Lymington, a survey of the ship uncovered serious Teredo worm damage. Tilman, undeterred, sold his car to fund the rebuilding work and began planning his third sailing expedition to the southern hemisphere. Mischief among the Penguins (1961), Tilman's account of landfalls on these tiny remote volcanic islands, bears testament to the development of his ocean navigation skills and seamanship. The accounts of the island anchorages, their snow-covered heights, geology and in particular the flora and fauna pay tribute to the varied interests and ingenuity of Mischief's crew, not least after several months at sea when food supplies needed to be eked out. Tilman's writing style, rich with informative and entertaining quotations, highlights the lessons learned with typical self-deprecating humour, while playing down the immensity of his achievements.
In May 1996 a number of expeditions attempted to climb Mount Everest on the Southeast Ridge route. Each group contained world class climbers and relative novices, some of whom had paid tens of thousands of pounds for the climb. As they neared the summit twenty-three men and women, including the expedition leaders, were caught in a ferocious blizzard. Disorientated, out of oxygen and depleted of supplied, the climbers struggled to find their way to safety. Experienced high-altitude guide Anatoli Boukreev led an exhausted and terrified group of climbers back to safety before going back out into the blizzard to help others stranded on the mountain. Rescuing a number of people from certain death, he emerged a hero. The Climb by Anatoli Boukreev is an honest and gripping account of true endurance and contains interviews with most of the surviving climbers, medical personnel, Sherpa guides, and families of the dead who experienced the tragedy. This edition also includes the transcript of the Mountain Madness debriefing, recorded five days after the tragedy, as well as G. Weston de Walt's response to Jon Krakauer.
In 2017 the English Lake District was awarded World Heritage status by UNESCO as a "cultural landscape" of global significance; a landscape gifted by Nature and modified by the activities of humankind to create a very distinctive and special place.The famous English landscape painter John Constable once said "We see nothing truly until we understand it". This suggests that gaining some understanding of why Lake District landscapes look as beautiful as they do will enable us see them more clearly and have our enjoyment of them enriched. To provide a beginning to this understanding is what this book is all about. Readers are taken to 22 prominent viewpoints around the World Heritage Site, all with an historical, Norse-derived name of 'how' or 'knott'. Then, whether sitting on a rock at the viewpoint or sitting in an armchair at home (with an online panorama to assist), the guide relates the historical story of the view - how the key features came about and how they may change in the future in response to new environmental challenges. After reading this book, readers will have enjoyed the beauties and story of the Lake District's acclaimed landscapes, and quite probably will not look at them again in quite the same way. |
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