'This is the story of how, on 29 May, 1953, two men, both endowed with outstanding stamina and skill, reached the top of Everest and came back unscathed to rejoin their comrades. 'Yet this will not be the whole story, for the ascent of Everest was not the work of one day, nor even of those few anxious, unforgettable weeks in which we prepared and climbed this summer. It is, in fact, a tale of sustained and tenacious endeavour by many, over a long period of time... We of the 1953 Everest Expedition are proud to share the glory with our predecessors.' Sir John Hunt

A bank of clouds was assembling on the not-so-distant horizon, but journalist-mountaineer Jon Krakauer, standing on the summit of Mt. Everest, saw nothing that "suggested that a murderous storm was bearing down." He was wrong. The storm, which claimed five lives and left countless more--including Krakauer's--in guilt-ridden disarray, would also provide the impetus for Into Thin Air, Krakauer's epic account of the May 1996 disaster.

By writing Into Thin Air, Krakauer may have hoped to exorcise some of his own demons and lay to rest some of the painful questions that still surround the event. He takes great pains to provide a balanced picture of the people and events he witnessed and gives due credit to the tireless and dedicated Sherpas. He also avoids blasting easy targets such as Sandy Pittman, the wealthy socialite who brought an espresso maker along on the expedition. Krakauer's highly personal inquiry into the catastrophe provides a great deal of insight into what went wrong. But for Krakauer himself, further interviews and investigations only lead him to the conclusion that his perceived failures were directly responsible for a fellow climber's death. Clearly, Krakauer remains haunted by the disaster, and although he relates a number of incidents in which he acted selflessly and even heroically, he seems unable to view those instances objectively. In the end, despite his evenhanded and even generous assessment of others' actions, he reserves a full measure of vitriol for himself.

This updated trade paperback edition of Into Thin Air includes an extensive new postscript that sheds fascinating light on the acrimonious debate that flared between Krakauer and Everest guide Anatoli Boukreev in the wake of the tragedy.  "I have no doubt that Boukreev's intentions were good on summit day," writes Krakauer in the postscript, dated August 1999. "What disturbs me, though, was Boukreev's refusal to acknowledge the possibility that he made even a single poor decision. Never did he indicate that perhaps it wasn't the best choice to climb without gas or go down ahead of his clients." As usual, Krakauer supports his points with dogged research and a good dose of humility. But rather than continue the heated discourse that has raged since Into Thin Air's denouncement of guide Boukreev, Krakauer's tone is conciliatory; he points most of his criticism at G. Weston De Walt, who coauthored The Climb, Boukreev's version of events. And in a touching conclusion, Krakauer recounts his last conversation with the late Boukreev, in which the two weathered climbers agreed to disagree about certain points. Krakauer had great hopes to patch things up with Boukreev, but the Russian later died in an avalanche on another Himalayan peak, Annapurna I.

In 1999, Krakauer received an Academy Award in Literature from the American Academy of Arts and Letters--a prestigious prize intended "to honor writers of exceptional accomplishment."  According to the Academy's citation, "Krakauer combines the tenacity and courage of the finest tradition of investigative journalism with the stylish subtlety and profound insight of the born writer.  His account of an ascent of Mount Everest has led to a general reevaluation of climbing and of the commercialization of what was once a romantic, solitary sport; while his account of the life and death of Christopher McCandless, who died of starvation after challenging the Alaskan wilderness, delves even more deeply and disturbingly into the fascination of nature and the devastating effects of its lure on a young and curious mind."

Gower Rock aims to showcase the depth and quality of rock climbing on this wild, beautiful yet somewhat unknown peninsula. The area contains a wide variety of climbing on an enticing array of venues. On some routes you can step straight off golden sands onto classic lines; in other cases you can wend your way across peaceful cliff-top paths before dropping into some pretty demanding terrain just a stone's throw from ice-cream-scoffing tourists and pastoral picnic spots. The magnificent areas of Fall Bay and Three Cliffs have enough classic routes to keep you busy on many visits to the peninsula. The sport crags of Southgate compliment and add variety to the well-established hard routes of Oxwich and Pwlldu. The selection of venues and climbs included in this guide will provide plenty of adventure for all climbers, among some of the best scenery in the UK. New in the 2nd Edition: - Fully revised and updated - 14 new crags - 208 new (mostly sport) routes - 23 new full colour photo topos - 1 new area map, highlighting the approaches

‘What a story and what an inspirational human. Ed is a total legend.’ Joe Wicks ‘A life-affirming story . . . inspirational’ Tim Peake The Sunday Times Bestseller From tragedy to triumph, one step at a time – an inspirational story of triumph over adversity against the odds At just 28 years old, Ed Jackson was told he would never walk again. After a miscalculated dive into a pool, he suffered multiple cardiac arrests, a broken neck and a partially severed spinal cord. Lying paralysed in intensive care, the former rugby player knew his life would never be the same. But he wasn’t ready to give up hope. Driven by relentless determination, Ed embarked on an incredible journey to independence. Millimetre by millimetre, he began to regain movement in his fingers and toes. Defying the expectations of even the most optimistic doctors, step by step, Ed began to walk again. Fuelled by a renewed appreciation for life and a determination to help others suffering similar injuries to his own, Ed set his sights on a new challenge: mountaineering. Embarking on a gruelling climb to raise funds for a spinal unit in Kathmandu, Ed realises that, once again, the odds are stacked against him. Will he be able to overcome his own life-changing injury and transform others’ lives for the better? Lucky is the story of how Ed faced the impossible when it seemed all hope was lost, and shows how you, too, can overcome the biggest challenges that life sends your way. Lucky was a Sunday Times bestseller in the w/b August 9th 2021

Recent years have witnessed a surge in the number of via ferrata routes set up in the iconic mountains of the French Alps. With routes set on or near many classics including the massifs of Mont Blanc, the Vanoise and the Queyras, this guide shows the best of what is now available. The 66 routes in this guidebook are grouped by area - Geneva and the Northern Alps, Chambery, the Tarentaise and Maurienne valleys, Grenoble and Briancon - and run the full gamut of challenge, from very easy, protected routes suitable for children, through to extremely exposed and technical routes for experienced ferrataists only. Everything you need to know to take up this exciting sport is covered here, including techniques and equipment required and glossary of specialist terminology, and all the routes are graded for difficulty, exposure and seriousness. Routes are illustrated by topo diagrams on colour photographs, and simple sketch maps. Those used to the older Italian routes will find these French routes quite different, closer to scrambling or rock climbing and often seeking out the most vertigo-inducing terrain. But most routes should be within the reach of any strong hillwalker and protection is high and well maintained."

In 1924, George Mallory and his companion Andrew Irvine disappeared during a valiant bid to reach the world's highest summit. In May 1999 Mallory's body was found, partly resolving the riddle of whether they succeeded in their bid, 29 years ahead of Hillary and Tenzing. Peter and Leni Gillman assess the motives and goals of this inspirational yet complex figure, whose life was dominated by his two conflicting passions: his love for his wife Ruth, and Everest - forbidding, unclimbed, 'the wildest dream', as he called it. Drawing on family letters and helped by surviving members of the family, Peter and Leni Gillman present a powerful and affecting portrait of a man torn between competing desires, and the fatal choice he ultimately made.

This guide introduces the climber to the bouldering, traditional climbing and sports routes at Dumbarton Rock. Known to locals as 'Dumby', this is lowland Scotland's premier rock-climbing venue, home to famous routes such as Chemin de Fer, Requiem and Rhapsody, and with a reputation for hard and technical climbing. Dumby also cradles a collection of giant boulders, which host over 300 documented problems from easy to 8th grade level. Problems such as Pongo, Sabotage, Pressure, Sanction and Gutbuster are amongst Scotland's world-class bouldering test pieces. Photo-topos and textual descriptions bring clarity to complex routes (100+) and boulder problems (300+). The guide features a contextual historical introduction by John Hutchinson, detailing the decades of climbing heritage for which Dumbarton Rock is internationally recognised.

In 1985 mountain guide Martin Moran achieved the first completion of all 277 Munros* in a single winter with the support and companionship of his wife Joy. Their success was a feat of dedicated mountaineering and effective teamwork through the storms, snows and avalanches of an epic winter season in the Scottish Highlands. Martin's account of the winter journey became a classic mountain narrative, combining his passionate enthusiasm for the mountains with humorous insights into a marriage put to the test through three months of living in a camper van. It was described as 'the best guidebook to the Munros' by mountain writer Jim Perrin. The book inspired many other climbers and runners to pick up the gauntlet in pursuit of new feats of endurance on Scotland's hills, and is now reissued with full colour photographs plus an introductory update by the author on how the 'Munros in Winter' changed his life.

The Alpine Journal is the oldest mountaineering periodical in the world, created as a record of mountain exploration and culture, and its 153rd publication celebrates some of the outstanding ascents of 2015. Two of Britain's best younger alpinists, Will Sim and Ben Silvestre, describe hard first ascents in Alaska, while a third, Andy Houseman, has an account of the first ascent of Link Sar West in the Karakoram, beautifully illustrated by Jon Griffith. The celebrated Italian mountaineer Simone Moro details his first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, after scores of attempts by himself and many others. There is also Mick Fowler's account of the first ascent of Gave Ding in far western Nepal, exploratory mountaineering of the highest order. The Journal also records exploration in the Andes, Pakistan, Zanskar, Tajikistan and two expeditions to Greenland. The Journal also has some exceptional writing on more cultural topics. Abbie Garrington looks at George Mallory's correspondence with his admirer Marjorie Holmes, while we also publish for the first time a long and revealing letter Jack Longland wrote from Everest in 1933. Jim Milledge describes the career of Stanhope Speer, pioneer in mountain medicine and noted spiritualist, while John Porter recalls his months spent working for Ken Wilson, climbing publisher and force of nature.

On 30 January 1981 Joe Tasker and Ade Burgess stood at 24,000 feet on the West Ridge of Mount Everest. Below them were their companions, some exhausted, some crippled by illness, all virtually incapacitated. Further progress seemed impossible. Everest the Cruel Way is Joe Tasker's story of an attempt to climb the highest mountain on earth - an attempt which pushed a group of Britain's finest mountaineers to their limits. The goal had been to climb Mount Everest at its hardest: via the infamous West Ridge, without supplementary oxygen and in winter. Tasker's epic account vividly describes experiences that no climber had previously endured. Close up and personal, it is a gripping account of day-to-day life on expedition and of the struggle to live at high altitude. Joe Tasker was one of Britain's best mountaineers. He was a pioneer of lightweight, alpine-style climbing in the Greater Ranges and had a special talent for writing. He died, along with his friend Peter Boardman, high on Everest in 1982 while attempting a new and unclimbed line. Both men were superb mountaineers and talented writers.

Foreword by Levison Wood, presenter of Walking the Americas. A comprehensive, fascinating and inspiring gallery of the great adventures that changed our world. Throughout history there have been brave men and women who dared to go where few had gone before. They broke new ground by drawing on incredible reserves of courage, fortitude and intelligence in the face of terrible adversity. Their endeavours changed the world and inspired generations. Spanning several centuries and united by the common theme of the resilience of the human spirit, this is the ultimate collection of the stories of the intrepid explorers who forged new frontiers across land, sea, skies and space. 50 incredible journeys including; * Tenzing and Hillary's conquest of Everest * Neil Armstrong's giant leap * Christopher Columbus' new world * Amelia Earhart flying the Atlantic * gold fever in the Yukon * the hunt for a man-eating leopard in India Great Expeditions includes not only some of the most famous journeys in history but also introduces many more that ought to be more widely recognised and celebrated.

This, the 152nd publication of the Alpine Journal, takes you on a selection of significant first ascents of 2014, from Antarctica to Greenland, Europe to High Asia; on adventures in rock climbing, mountaineering and exploration of the high mountains of the continents. The volume includes the first ascent of Gasherbrum V, exploration of a hard-to-reach granite cirque in Alaska, hard climbing on unexplored cliffs of Greenland only reachable by sailboat, and descriptions of still-unclimbed peaks in Tibet and South America. Area notes from local experts in mountainous regions around the world give inspiration as well as the recent developments.History and science are, as always, well attended and include the history of mountain guiding in the Golden Age of mountaineering; new light on what might have happened on K2's first ascent; stereographic photography in the Victorian era, and the prevalence of algae in the mountains. To celebrate the first ascent of the Matterhorn, Robin Campbell has curated and discussed a collection of early drawings of the mountain. Roger Birnstingl gives us previously untranslated letters from the scandalised Italians on the race for the first ascent of the Cervino; Ian Smith tells us about Whymper in the aftermath of the first ascent; John Cleare goes back 50 years in his story of the centenary ascent with the BBC.

Being in the right place at the right time is critical when Scottish Winter Climbing. This guide will help you make the right choices - do you go high or low, head east, west or north, or attempt snowed-up rock, mixed or ice climbs? With more than 600 new Scottish Winter Climbs to his credit, Simon Richardson reveals his simple strategy for success and selects 50 climbs to put on your hit-list.There is a detailed analysis of the strategy and tactics Scottish Winter Climbers need, taking into account Scotland's sometimes fickle conditions and unpredictable weather. There are sections on using weather forecasts, using the internet, avoiding avalanches, clothing and equipment, protection, navigation, timing, partners and psychology. Simon also presents 50 climbs mostly in the Grade III to VI range, specifically selected to match a variety of Scottish conditions. Each climb is supported by a map and topo, with access and descent details, route description, optimum conditions and top tips. Climbs include well-known classics and lesser-known gems. There are suggestions for more than 200 alternative routes from Grade II to Grade VII.Detailed overviews are included of approaches and descents on Ben Nevis with North Face panorama and map and summit descent bearings. There is also the largest ever collection of photographs of Scottish Winter Climbers in action!

The Appalachian Mountains are a well-known world treasure, perhaps the most biodiverse region on the planet. In this book, which spans almost six years and 500 miles of hiking along the southern portion of the Appalachian Trail, the author brings a fresh perspective to the subculture of "AT" hikers. The path of the trail crosses many areas that featured dramatic family events, and the author weaves in compelling stories of his ancestors who called this ancient mountain range home. Over the course of his journey, the author also explores a multitude of topics ranging from environmental challenges to the modern day problems facing residents of the region.

The first in a series of selective guidebooks, "France: Haute Provence" presents many of the finest sport climbing destinations in the world together in one clear and colourful book. Covering all the best areas from the magnificent walls of Ceuse in the north to the impeccable climbing playground of Buoux to the south, this book has a lifetime's worth of climbing waiting on its pages. Produced in the universally-praised Rockfax style, the books presents the reader with clear landscape photos of each crag, never-before-seen close-up photo-topos, and a wealth of action photos specifically taken for the book. Whether you're planning your trip from home, or choosing your next route at the crag, this guide will have everything you're looking for: from inspiration to perspiration. This will be the only english language guidebook that covers this wide range of crags and the only book that is easily available to travelling climbers. It will also be the only guidebook in print for several of the crags. The Crags Covered include: Ceuse, Sisteron, Volx, Orpierre, Bellecombe, Baume Rousse, Ubrieux, Saint Julien, Saint Leger Rochers du Groseau, Combe Obscure, Les Dentelles de Montmirail, Venasque, and Buoux.

The compelling account of recklessness, tragedy, courage, and rescue, this book's sobering depiction of Nature's danger is tempered by unforgettable portraits of the triumphant human spirit.

Dave Gregory has been climbing for over forty years and writing short stories for nearly as long. This collection contains both fact and fiction triggered by that experience. The stories cover a broad spread over a wide canvas.

'Riveting . . . Honnold is neither crazy nor reckless. Alone on the Wall reveals him to be an utterly unique and extremely appealing young man' - Jon Krakauer, bestselling author of Into the Wild. This updated edition contains the account of Alex's El Capitan climb, which is the subject of the Oscar and BAFTA winning documentary, Free Solo. Alex Honnold is one of the world's best 'free solo' climbers, he scales impossible rock faces without ropes, pitons or any support of any kind. Exhilarating, brilliant and dangerous, there is a purity to Alex's climbs that is easy to comprehend, but also impossible to fathom; in the last forty years, only a handful of climbers have pushed themselves as far, 'free soloing' to the absolute limit of human capabilities. Half of them are dead. From Yosemite's famous Half Dome to the frighteningly difficult El Sendero Luminoso in Mexico, Alone on the Wall explores Alex's seven most extraordinary climbing achievements so far. These are tales to make your palms sweat and your feet curl with vertigo. Together, they get to the heart of how - and why - Alex does what he does. Exciting, uplifting and truly awe-inspiring, Alone on the Wall is a book about the essential truth of being free to pursue your passions and the ability to maintain a singular focus, even in the face of mortal danger.

For nearly 50 years, Climbing Magazine's goal has been to inspire and entertain with compelling coverage of climbing in all its forms, from bouldering to the big walls, trad rock to sport climbing, ice climbing to mountaineering. Vantage Point offers a collection of the most inspiring, thought-provoking, and humorous stories featured in Climbing over the past five decades-an anthology that will move you to grab your chalkbag, rope, and harness.

In early 1978, an extraordinary new invention for rock climbers was featured on the BBC television science show Tomorrow's World. It was called the 'Friend', and it not only made the sport safer, it helped push the limits of the possible. The company that made them was called Wild Country, the brainchild of Mark Vallance. Within six months, Vallance was selling Friends in sixteen countries. Wild Country would go on to develop much of the gear that transformed climbing in the 1980s. Mark Vallance's influence on the outdoor world extends far beyond the company he founded. He owned and opened the influential retailer Outside in the Peak District and was part of the team that built The Foundry, Sheffield's premier climbing wall - the first modern climbing gym in Britain. He worked for the Peak District National Park and served on its board. He even found time to climb eight-thousand-metre peaks and the Nose on El Capitan. Diagnosed with Parkinson's disease in his mid fifties and robbed of his plans for retirement, Vallance found a new sense of purpose as a reforming president of the British Mountaineering Council. In Wild Country, Vallance traces his story, from childhood influences like Robin Hodgkin and Sir Jack Longland, to two years in Antarctica, where he was base commander of the UK's largest and most southerly scientific station at Halley Bay, before his fateful meeting with Ray Jardine, the man who invented Friends, in Yosemite. Trenchant, provocative and challenging, Wild Country is a remarkable personal story and a fresh perspective on the role of the outdoors in British life and the development of climbing in its most revolutionary phase. Mark Vallance (1945-2018), the man who made Friends.

Feeding The Rat is the riveting story of an extraordinary man: climbing legend Mo Anthoine, who found his greatest joy in adventures that that tested the far limits of human endurance.His passion for ‘feeding the rat’ made him the unsung hero of dozens of terrifying, epic expeditions in the mountains, including the famous Ogre expedition that almost killed Doug Scott and Sir Chris Bonington. The book is also the story of the friendship between Mo and his co-adventurer, Al Alvarez — the distinguished poet, critic and journalist. Warm, humorous and insightful, this moving portrait of Alvarez’s anarchic, iconoclastic longtime climbing partner is a classic of adventure literature.

Al Alvarez is a poet, critic, journalist and adrenalin junkie. To find out more, visit www.bloomsbury.com/alalvarez

'The vicarious fear was so powerful that I had to hold on to the arm of the sofa. When it gets to the kind of courage, fortitude and brute strength the poeple in this book display, the head swims ... the writing is as beautiful as it is thrilling' —The Times

'Immensely funny ... subtle, profound and — like its subject — wholly unique' —Climber

'Alvarez has always taken us to places we never wanted to go; the dangerous edge of things #151; heart-stopping, high-stakes poker games, the rarefied air of higher literary criticism, the depths of depression and suicide, and now the epic extremes of mountaineering. He has always challenged timidities with profound courage, mordant humour and an appetite for personal challenge. The Alvarez rat rarely went hungry. The rest of us will beg for more' —The Times

No one writes about mountaineering and its attendant hardships and victories more brilliantly than critically acclaimed author Jon Krakauer. In this collection of his finest work from such magazines as Outside and Smithsonian, he explores the subject from the unique and memorable perspective of one who has battled peaks like K2, Denali, Everest, and, of course, the Eiger. Always with a keen eye, an open heart, and a hunger for the ultimate experience, he gives us unerring portraits of the mountaineering experience. Yet Eiger Dreams is more about people than about rock and ice-people with that odd, sometimes maniacal obsession with mountain summits that sets them apart from other men and women. Here we meet Adrian the Romanian, determined to be the first of his countrymen to solo Denali; John Gill, climber not of great mountains but of house-sized boulders so difficult to surmount that even demanding alpine climbs seem easy; and many more compelling and colorful characters. In the most intimate piece, "The Devils Thumb," Krakauer recounts his own near-fatal, ultimately triumphant struggle with solo-madness as he scales Alaska's Devils Thumb. Eiger Dreams is stirring, vivid writing about one of the most compelling and dangerous of all human pursuits.

'Ever since I first set foot on rock at the tender age of seven years, climbing has been the most important thing in my life. In fact I would go so far as to say it is my reason for living and as long as I am able to climb I hope I will. It is from climbing I draw my inspiration for life.' On 14 June 1990, at Raven Tor in the Derbyshire Peak District, twenty-four-year-old Ben Moon squeezed his feet into a pair of rock shoes, tied in to his rope, chalked his fingers and pulled on to the wickedly overhanging, zebra-striped wall of limestone. Two minutes later he had made rock-climbing history with the first ascent of Hubble, now widely recognised as the world's first F9a. Born in the suburbs of London in 1966, Moon started rock climbing on the sandstone outcrops of Kent and Sussex. A pioneer in the sport-climbing revolution of the 1980s and a bouldering legend in the 1990s, he is one of the most iconic rock climbers in the sport's history, In Statement, Moon's official biography, award-winning writer Ed Douglas paints a portrait of a climbing visionary and dispels the myth of Moon as an anti-traditional climbing renegade. Interviews with Moon are complemented with insights from family and friends and extracts from magazines and personal diaries and letters.