The dressmaking trade developed rapidly during the 18th and 19th centuries, changing the lives of thousands of British workers. Busks, Basques and Brush-Braid focuses on the trade and the people within it, from their working conditions and earnings to their training, services and relationships with customers. Exploring the lives of dressmakers in fact and fiction, the book looks at representations of the trade in the plays and novels of the time, while surveying the often harsh realities of the workers' lives. From the arrival of the sewing machine to the influence of the department store, it explores the impact of mechanization, commercialization and modernity on a historical trade. Pamela Inder illuminates a new world of dressmaking enabled by goods like paper patterns and magazines, and sets out to investigate the increasing monopoly of female dressmakers in an industry once dominated by male tailors. Drawing on a range of original and hitherto unpublished sources - including business records, diaries, letters, bills and newspaper articles - Busks, Basques and Brush-Braid reveals the untold story of the dressmaking trade. Beautifully illustrated with over 80 images, the book brings dressmakers into focus as real people, granting new insights into working class life in 18th- and 19th-century Britain.

Social Media for Fashion Marketing uses cutting edge case studies and detailed interviews to show how the business of fashion is changing in the digital landscape. Bendoni (@BendoniStyle) also considers the psychological impact of being a hyper-connected consumer and the generational gaps in social media communication. Using academic research, alongside her 25 years of fashion marketing experience, Bendoni offers a clear picture of the changing narrative of storytelling, social confirmation, digital nesting and how to use data to shape a brand's online presence. With practical and critical thinking activities to hone your skills into professional practice, this is the ultimate guide to social marketing, promotion, SEO, branding and communication. Featured topics - Rules of Digital Storytelling - Rethinking Gamification - Strategic Digital Marketing - The Role of Citizen Journalists - The Social Media Looking Glass - World of Influencer Marketing - Visual Consumption Economy - Global Perspective of Social Media

If you’re taking your first steps into the fast-paced world of retail, then merchandiser, store designer, retailer and educator Dimitri Koumbis is the ideal guide. In An Introduction to Fashion Retailing, he’ll walk you through everything from the history of retail design, to the intricacies of consumer behavior, fast fashion and corporate social responsibility. You’ll also learn professional techniques through detailed case studies of international retailers, including LVMH, Estée Lauder and ASOS. This revised edition includes expanded coverage of omnichannel retail approaches, retail KPIs as well as an outline of future retail trends in brick and mortar, e-commerce and technology. There’s also a whole new chapter introducing visual merchandising, expanding on the importance of the store’s overall design and visual representation of products.

In today's highly competitive global market, fashion designers, entrepreneurs, and executives need state, federal, and international laws to protect their intellectual property-their brands and the products by which their customers recognize them. Fashion Law provides a concise and practical guide to the full range of legal issues faced by a fashion company as it grows from infancy to international stature. Updated to reflect recent legal decisions and regulatory developments, this revised edition covers such vital issues as intellectual property protection and litigation, licensing, anti-counterfeiting, start-ups and finance, commercial transactions, retail property leasing, employment regulations, advertising and marketing, celebrity endorsements, and international trade. Features of the text help to make legal concepts accessible to the lay reader. More than 25 leading attorneys practicing in the emerging legal specialty of fashion law contributed the chapters for this authoritative text, and their expertise provides a foundation for fashion professionals and their legal advisors to work together effectively. New to this Edition -Expanded section on Intellectual Property protection, including an all new Chapter 6 on Litigation -All new Chapter 10 on Fashion Finance Features Features -Box Features provide real-life examples that demonstrate the role that law plays in the fashion business, including landmark court cases and current events -Practice Tips discuss legal issues that should be considered as fashion designers and executives establish procedures for conducting their business -Sample Clauses familiarize readers with the legal language that covers the rights and responsibilities of the parties to agreements -Instructor's Guide and PowerPoint (R) presentations available.

Fashion is all around us, and so too is fashion journalism. Discussions of fashion proliferate in an ever-increasing range of media, from newspapers and magazines to tweets and TV programs. Fashion Journalism: History, Theory and Practice is an accessible, comprehensive guide to writing about fashion in any form, whether in style blogging, magazine interviews, news reportage or art reviews. Exploring what sets fashion journalism apart from other forms of journalistic writing, the book features a wide range of global fashion case studies, from Carmel Snow's reporting on Dior's 'New Look' to 1970s responses to Yves Saint Laurent, and Diana Vreeland's role as a fashion editor. Through a series of engaging exercises, you will learn how to find inspiration, carry out successful research, structure your work logically, use a style appropriate to your readership, and to make the leap from descriptive writing to informed analysis and criticism. Engaging and clearly written, Fashion Journalism examines how recent technological developments are shaping and driving fashion journalism, and delves into the theory and practice of writing about fashion.

To work with the materials of tomorrow, design students across visual arts disciplines need to understand the cutting edge of today. Whether you're modelling in interiors, designing in fashion or constructing for interiors, in your work or as part of a final project, 3D Printing design is an encouraging guide to additive manufacturing within design disciplines. Francis Bitonti gives an insider's view from his design studio on how 3D printing is already shaking up the industry, and where it's likely to go next. Complete with interviews from designers, business owners and 3D-print experts throughout, Bitonti considers whether 3D body scans mean couture for all, how rapid prototyping can change your design method and if 3D printing materials can enhance medical design, amongst other areas of this emerging method of manufacture. This is inspirational reading for the designers of tomorrow.

With the rise of digital media, promotion remains a key element at each step of the merchandising process to communicate a clear message about a product, brand, or retailer to the end user. Promotion strategies that were once limited to traditional media-print ads, radio or TV commercials-must now integrate digital media and more innovative means of communication through social media to stay relevant. The third edition of Promotion in the Merchandising Environment explains the process of promotion and the promotion mix tools used for creating successful campaigns. With expanded coverage of digital media, updated examples and images of retail advertisements and promotional activities in each streamlined chapter, students will gain a full understanding of how to create a successful promotion campaign for retail products. New to This Edition ~Updated chapter-opening vignettes relate the content of each chapter to the industry ~Now in full color with 60% new photographs, advertisements, charts and graphs ~New Chapter 3 "The Creative Process in Promotion" explains how the elements and principles of design are used in promotional activities and illuminates the creative relationship between retailers and advertising agencies ~New Chapter 8 "New Media" covers interactive retailing, e-commerce, and social media, such as Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and Pinterest ~New end-of-chapter checklists for easy review of content and a new term-long advertising brand campaign assignment ~Emphasizes the concept of integrated marketing communications (IMC), the effects of consumers' changing attitudes and how changes in technologies and distribution channels are driving communication and fashion promotion today ~Coverage has been streamlined to 14 concise chapters Instructor Resources ~Instructor's Guide with Test Bank provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text in the classroom, supplemental assignments, lecture notes, and sample test questions ~PowerPoint presentations include images from the book and provide a framework for lecture and discussion

Few phenomena embody the notion of time as well as fashion. Fast-moving and rooted in the 'now', it's constantly creating its own past through the process of rapid style change. Uniquely poised between the past and the future, fashion's relationship with time is unorthodox. Rather than considering time in the conventional sense, this anthology explores three alternative ways to think about fashion and time: the first identifies the seasonal nature of fashion as an industry, and shows how this has impacted on workers and wearers alike. The second looks at fashion design as a ceaseless process of adaptation, reconstruction and recombination of motifs, in which nostalgia and revivals play their part. The third construes fashion's 'imaginary', with its capacity for fantasy and myth-making, as a form of alternate history that asks 'what if?' Within this framework, key classic texts are juxtaposed with lesser known ones, in an interdisciplinary approach that includes philosophy, history, literature, media and fashion design, ranging from the 18th century to the present. It will be of interest to anyone wishing to understand one of the most complex yet inescapable aspects of fashion, its relationship to time, and will be a critical resource for undergraduate and postgraduate students in the humanities and all those interested in fashion in all its creative, commercial and cultural aspects.

This book demonstrates how the creative industries are driving new sectoral and spatial dynamics in European cities, regions, and countries, and how these may be influenced by international and global dynamics. It takes a purposeful geographical approach to the study of the creative industries across various Western, Central and Eastern European contexts since the 2008-2009 recession. Despite the growing research looking at the development of the creative industries in the last 15 years, there are still gaps in the coverage of what is happening in Central and Eastern Europe compared to Western Europe. This book addresses these gaps in two parts focusing on particular geographical scales and creative processes: local interplay between sector and space and the role of the creative industries in regional and national economies after the crisis. The book presents original analyses of the post-crisis environment, and novel data on topics such as the role of institutions in the regulation of the fashion industry in global cities, the impact of clustering on film innovation, location patterns of art galleries, regional specialisations and paths of professional carriers in creative industries.

On November 28, 1973, the world's social elite gathered at the Palace of Versailles for an international fashion show. By the time the curtain came down on the evening's spectacle, history had been made and the industry had been forever transformed. This is that story. At the Battle of Versailles, five Americans - Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Anne Klein, Halston, and Stephen Burrows - faced off against the five French designers considered the best in the world - Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, and Marc Bohan of Christian Dior. Against all odds, the American energy and the domination by their fearless models (ten of whom, in a ground-breaking move, were African-American) sent the audience reeling. By the end of the evening, the Americans had transformed their place on the world stage and sowed the seeds for changing the way race, gender, sexuality, and economics would be treated in fashion for decades to come. The in-fighting between ego-inflated designers, the unforeseen obstacles instaging the show on a shoestring, the triumphant win, the vastly different fates of the designers post-show. Robin Givhan's meticulous research brings the event alive and places it firmly in the history of fashion, offering an intimate examination of a single moment that teaches us how the culture of fashion as we now know it came to be.

Vidal Sassoon's extraordinary life has taken him from an impoverished East End childhood to global fame. The father of modern hairdressing, his slick sharp cutting took the fashion world by storm and reinvented the hairdressers' art. Before Vidal Sassoon, a trip to the hairdressers meant a shampoo and set or a stiffly lacquered up-do that would last a week - or more. After Vidal Sassoon, hair was sleek, smooth and very, very stylish. Along with his lifelong friend and partner in style, Mary Quant, who he first met in 1957 and who to this day sports a Sassoon-style geometric bob, he styled the 1960s. As memorable as the mini - be it car or skirt - he is one of the few people who can genuinely be described as iconic. His memoirs are as rich in anecdote as one might hope and full of surprising and often moving stories of his early life - his time at the Spanish & Portuguese Jewish Orphanage in Maida Vale, fighting Fascists in London's East End and fighting in the army of the fledgling state of Israel in the late Forties. And then there's the extraordinary career, during which he cut the hair of everyone who was anyone, launched salons all over the world, founded the hairdressing school that still bears his name and became a global brand, with Vidal Sassoon products on all our bathroom shelves.

In the early 1940s, American designer Emily Wilkens went beyond her previous experience in children's wear to create costumes for two teenage characters in a Broadway play. Recognizing the growing importance of the teenager in American culture, she soon launched Emily Wilkens Young Originals, the first designer label specializing in upscale, fashionable clothing for teenage girls. Within the space of a few years, Wilkens skyrocketed from obscurity to national recognition, yet even today many fashion insiders would not recognize her name. Fashion historian Rebecca Jumper Matheson explores intertwining stories of female agency through the history of Wilkens and her teenage clientele. Wilkens retained both artistic and business control over her label in an era when most American ready-to-wear designers were anonymous employees of manufacturers. Wilkens parleyed her relative youth into a big-sister image which, like her dresses themselves, allowed her to mediate between the concerns of her teenage clients and their parents. Contrary to popular wisdom, Wilkens's designs declared that even a teenager could be fashionable. In doing so, Wilkens laid the foundation for the seismic shift that would occur later in the twentieth century, when youth became the fashionable ideal. Young Originals traces Wilkens's career from fashion illustrator in the 1930s to spa and beauty expert in the 1980s, emphasizing her consistent ideal of healthy, youthful beauty.

Winner, 2016 Best First Book Prize from the Immigration and Ethnic History Society Finalist, 2016 Sami Rohr Prize for Jewish Literature Winner, 2015 Book Prize from the Southern Jewish Historical Society Finalist, 2015 Jordan Schnitzer Book Award from the Association for Jewish Studies Winner, 2014 National Jewish Book Award in American Jewish Studies from the Jewish Book Council The majority of Jewish immigrants who made their way to the United States between 1820 and 1924 arrived nearly penniless; yet today their descendants stand out as exceptionally successful. How can we explain their dramatic economic ascent? Have Jews been successful because of cultural factors distinct to them as a group, or because of the particular circumstances that they encountered in America? The Rag Race argues that the Jews who flocked to the United States during the age of mass migration were aided appreciably by their association with a particular corner of the American economy: the rag trade. From humble beginnings, Jews rode the coattails of the clothing trade from the margins of economic life to a position of unusual promise and prominence, shaping both their societal status and the clothing industry as a whole. Comparing the history of Jewish participation within the clothing trade in the United States with that of Jews in the same business in England, The Rag Race demonstrates that differences within the garment industry on either side of the Atlantic contributed to a very real divergence in social and economic outcomes for Jews in each setting.

Discover the best-kept beauty secrets from three generations of editors and experts at Vogue Paris . . . 'French beauty secrets that'll give you some ooh la la!' DAILY EXPRESS 'Breaks down everything you've ever wanted to know about French beauty' INSTYLE _______ Your guide to French beauty will guide you through . . . * Simple changes to your beauty habits, from the correct way to wash your hair to the vital items no make-up bag should be without * How to give your skin a healthy glow in just a few simple steps * Advice for women of all ages, Jeunesse, Plenitude and Maturite, to ensure energy, confidence and happiness * Which self-tanners to use and how to apply for a beautiful, healthy, summer tan * The four pillars of French wellness: food, posture, exercise and movement you need and dormez-vous And much more . . . Clemence Von Mueffling draws on her family's wisdom and passion to show how you can achieve effortless French beauty at any age. Filled with tips, intimate anecdotes and expert interviews, Ageless Beauty is sure to become every woman's definitive beauty guide. _______ 'A delicious dose of effortless chic, timeless glamour, priceless beauty secrets, self-care and self-confidence' Sarah Brown, former Beauty Director, VOGUE 'This book is a magical guide, with expert advice in three categories so women of all ages will feel it is specifically tailored to them' Aerin Lauder, Style and Image Director of ESTEE LAUDER

Over the past 40 years, Japanese designers have led the way in aligning fashion with art and ideology, as well as addressing identity and social politics through dress. They have demonstrated that both creative and commercial enterprise is possible in today's international fashion industry, and have refused to compromise their ideals, remaining autonomous and independent in their design, business affairs and distribution methods. The inspirational Miyake, Yamamoto and Kawakubo have gained worldwide respect and admiration and have influenced a generation of designers and artists alike. Based on twelve years of research, this book provides a richly detailed and uniquely comprehensive view of the work of these three key designers. It outlines their major contributions and the subsequent impact that their work has had upon the next generation of fashion and textile designers around the world. Designers discussed include: Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Naoki Takizawa, Dai Fujiwara, Junya Watanabe, Tao Kurihara, Jun Takahashi, Yoshiki Hishinuma, Junichi Arai, Reiko Sudo & the Nuno Corporation, Makiko Minagawa, Hiroshi Matsushita, Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan and Helmut Lang.

The Fundamentals of Digital Fashion Marketing introduces and explores contemporary digital marketing practices within the fashion industry. Clare Harris clearly explains key digital marketing strategies and examines and illustrates their role in fashion through exciting and memorable industry examples. Marketing practices covered include online marketing, social media, video, mobile technologies, in-store technologies, augmented reality and digital spaces. The text features interviews and case studies from some of fashion's biggest brands and most cutting-edge marketing companies, while also promoting active learning through engaging activities and exercises. This all combines to create a book that will inform, stimulate and inspire the next generation of creative marketers.

Haute couture, haute drama, hautely practical info . . . with a "Project Runway" favorite From inspiration to execution, from first sketches to final styling, from developing a portfolio to defining a look, " Fashion Inside Out" combines practical information on fashion design with an intimate look at the fashion scene today. "Project Runway" finalist Daniel Vosovic reveals exactly how designers make dreams become fashion reality. Where do fashion ideas come from? How does a designer capture a client's personality? What is it really like to compete--and triumph--in the high-powered world of haute couture? Vosovic tells all, and so do dozens of other industry professionals, including prominent magazine editors, photographers, stylists, and fashionistas from around the globe. A detailed overview of the design process, plus insightful advice on connecting with the right people, promoting and selling, and much, much more, make this the ideal one-volume resource for everyone who loves design, watches television fashion-reality shows, or longs for a behind-the-scenes look at an exciting and exotic business. Don't just dream about the world of fashion. Be a part of it . . . with the help of "Fashion Inside Out."

In virtually all the countries of the world, men, and to a lesser extent women, are today dressed in very similar clothing. This book gives a compelling account and analysis of the process by which this has come about. At the same time it takes seriously those places where, for whatever reason, this process has not occurred, or has been reversed, and provides explanations for these developments.
The first part of this story recounts how the cultural, political and economic power of Europe and, from the later nineteenth century North America, has provided an impetus for the adoption of whatever was at that time standard Western dress. Set against this, Robert Ross shows how the adoption of European style dress, or its rejection, has always been a political act, performed most frequently in order to claim equality with colonial masters, more often a male option, or to stress distinction from them, which women, perhaps under male duress, more frequently did.
The book takes a refreshing global perspective to its subject, with all continents and many countries being discussed. It investigates not merely the symbolic and message-bearing aspects of clothing, but also practical matters of production and, equally importantly, distribution.

Despite all the medical and media attention focused on the rate of overweight and obesity in the African American population, African American images and body types are greatly influencing changes in the fashion, fitness, advertising, television and movie industries. This is because overweight, like beauty, can be in the eye of the beholder. Most research studies investigating attitudes about body image and body type among African Americans have shown they are more satisfied with their bodies than are their white counterparts and that there appears to be a wider range of acceptable body shapes and weights, and a more flexible standard of attractiveness, among black Americans as compared to whites. That fact is not being lost on leaders of industries that might profit from understanding this wider range of beauty, as well as playing to it. In this book, medical anthropologist Eric Bailey introduces and explains the self-acceptance and body image satisfaction of African Americans, and traces how that has spurred changes in industry. His book fills the void of scientific evidence to enhance the understanding of African Americans' perceptions related to body image and beauty-and is the first to document these issues from the perspective of an African American male. Despite all the medical and media attention focused on the rate of overweight and obesity in the African American population, African American images and body types are greatly influencing changes in the fashion, fitness, advertising, television, and movie industries. This is because overweight, like beauty, can be in the eye of the beholder. Most research studies investigating attitudes about body image and body type among African Americans have shown they are more satisfied with their bodies than are their white counterparts. Most black women, for example, are of course concerned with how they look, but do not judge themselves in terms of their weight and do not believe they are valued mostly on the basis of their bodies. Black teen girls most often say being thick and curvaceous with large hips and ample thighs is seen as the most desirable body shape. Thus, there appears to be a wider range of acceptable body shapes and weights, and a more flexible standard of attractiveness, among black Americans as compared to whites. That fact is not lost on leaders of industries that might profit from understanding this wider range of beauty, as well as playing to it. Voluptuous supermodel Tyra Banks is just one African American who's broken the mold in that industry. The effects have been seen right down to department and local clothes stores, where lines of larger and plus-size fashions are expanding, becoming more colorful and more ornate. In the fitness industry, health gurus Madonna Grimes and Billy Blanks have been revolutionizing how people get fit and how fitness needs to be redeveloped for the African American population. Advertising has taken a similar turn, not the least manifestation of which were the major campaigns Dove and Nike ran in 2005 with plus-sized actresses (who continue to appear in promotions for both companies). In movies and on television shows, the African American beautiful body image has followed suit. In this book, medical anthropologist Eric Bailey introduces and explains the self-acceptance and body image satisfaction of African Americans, and traces how that has spurred changes in industry. His book fills the void of scientific evidence to enhance the understanding of African Americans' perceptions related to body image and beauty-and is the first to document these issues from the perspective of an African American male.