When Edward Enninful became first Black editor-in-chief of British Vogue, few at the heights of the elitist world of fashion wanted to confront how it failed to represent the world we live in. But Edward, a champion of inclusion throughout his life, rapidly changed that.

From a childhood in Ghana amid riotous colour and strong Black women, to being discovered by a fashion editor on the London Underground at the age of sixteen, to taking the helm of Britain's most influential fashion publication, A Visible Man traces an astonishing journey into one of the world's most exclusive industries. Taking us into the heady, wild and vibrant fashion scene of 1980s London and beyond, Edward details how as a Black, gay, working-class refugee, he found in fashion not only a home, but the freedom to share with people the world as he saw it – and to tell the story of the times we're in.

Now, whether it's putting first responders, octogenarians or civil rights activists on the cover of Vogue, or championing designers and photographers of colour, Edward Enninful has cemented his status as one of the world's most important change-makers. And he's just getting started.

Written with style, grace and heart, this is the story of a visionary who has changed how we understand beauty.

From artist to curator, couturier to fashion blogger, 'creative' professional identities can be viewed as social practices, enacted, performed and negotiated through the media, the public, and industry. Fashioning Professionals addresses what it means to be a creative professional, historically and in the digital age, as new ways of working and doing business have given rise to new professional identities. Bringing together critical reflections from international researchers, the book spans fashion, design, art, architecture, and advertising. It examines both traditional and emergent roles in creative industries, from advertising executives and surrealist artists to mannequin designers, pop stylists, bloggers, makers and design curators. The book reveals how professional identities are continually in a state of fashioning, through style, taste, gender and cultural representation, highlighting moments of friction and flux in the creative labour of the global economy. Interweaving critical perspectives from fashion and design history with sociology and cultural theory, Fashioning Professionals addresses a burgeoning area of research as we enter new terrain in fashion and the creative industries.

In the "funny, insightful" (Harper's Bazaar) Tales from the Back Row, Cosmopolitan.com editor Amy Odell takes readers behind the stage of New York's hottest fashion shows to meet the world's most influential models, designers, celebrities, editors, and photographers. But first, she has to push her way through the crowds outside and weave her way through the packed venue, from the very back row to the front. And as Amy climbs the ladder she introduces an industry powered by larger-than-life characters: she meets the intimidating Anna Wintour and the surprisingly gracious Rachel Zoe, not to mention the hilarious Chelsea Handler, and more. As she describes the allure of Alexander Wang's ripped tights and Marchesa's Oscar-worthy dresses, Amy layers in something else: how the fashion industry is an exaggerated mirror of human fallibility, reflecting our desperate desire to belong, to make a mark. In her "light-hearted, cocktail-hour confession from someone who is...sober enough to recognize insanity for what it is" (The Washington Post). Welcome to the weird and wonderful world of high fashion: "Whether you're interested in pursuing a career in publishing, public relations, or design, or you're just fascinated with what really goes on behind-the-scenes without the usual sugar coating, we'd say this is required reading" (Fashionista.com).

Numerous tastemakers exist in and between fashion production and consumption, from designers and stylists to trend forecasters, buyers, and journalists. How and why are each of these players bound up in the creation and dispersion of trends? In what ways are consumers' relations to trends constructed by these individuals and organizations? This book explores the social significance of trends in the global fashion industry through interviews with these 'fashion intermediaries', offering new insights into their influential roles in the setting and shaping of trends. The Trendmakers contains exclusive interviews with financial analysts, creative directors from high street stores like H&M to designer brands such as Erdem, trend forecasters at WGSN, buyers from Harvey Nichols, and major fashion names like The Telegraph fashion critic Hilary Alexander. In contrast to existing research, Lantz offers an international understanding of the trend landscape, engaging with industry professionals from fashion capitals like London, Paris, and New York, as well as BRIC countries and the new, emerging fashion nations. The fashion media may have declared that 'trends are dead' in the light of digital dissemination, but Lantz argues that trends still not only serve as a significant organizing principle for the fashion industry as a whole but also as a source for legitimacy. Engaging with classic fashion thinkers like Veblen, Simmel, and Bourdieu, as well as contemporary scholars like Entwistle and Steele, this book considers trends from an economic and cultural perspective to add to our knowledge of the complexities of the business of fashion.

Herman Mashaba rose from humble beginnings to become one of South Africa's wealthiest and best-known entrepreneurs. His remarkable story begins in a small village in Gauteng, where we meet the cocky youngster who refused to settle for a future that offered nothing. Forced to drop out of university, the determined young man fought to establish the first black-owned haircare company in South Africa. Mashaba struggled every day of his life – against apartheid, with its demeaning laws, and against his competitors to grab market share for his business. In the process, Mashaba learnt lessons that few business schools teach today. This is a story of survival, and of determination in adversity. It is also a love story between Herman and Connie, his wife of 30 years, who embarked on this journey together. Mashaba shows the importance of having a vision, daring to dream it, and then making it happen. This inspiring book will leave you with the question: "If he did it, why can't I?"

The Hindi film industry, among the most prolific in the world, has delighted audiences for decades with its colourful, exquisite and sometimes startling costumes. But are costumes more than just a source of pleasure? This book, the first in-depth exploration of Hindi film costume, contends that they are a unique source of knowledge about issues ranging from Indian taste and fashion to questions of identity, gender and work.Anthropological and film studies approaches combine to analyze costume as the outcome of production processes and as a cinematic device for conveying meaning. Chapters lead from the places where costume is planned and executed to explorations of characterization, the actor body, spectacles of fashion, to the imagining of historical or fantasy worlds through dress, to the power of stardom to launch clothing styles into the public domain. As well as charting the course of film costume as it parallels important trends in cultural history, the book considers the future of Hindi film costume, in the context of new strains of filmmaking that stress unvarnished realism."Fashioning Bollywood" will appeal to students and scholars of Indian culture, anthropology and fashion, as well as anyone who has seen and enjoyed Hindi films.

Skin Care Practices and Clinical Protocols is a critical resource for skin care professionals interested in expanding their current knowledge and technical skills, whether a long-term practitioner learning new techniques and technologies, or students learning beyond the fundamentals. This text includes interviews with professionals spanning four decades of esthetic education and experiences in a variety of settings ranging from travel and tourism, salons and spas to the medical office. The global population's interest in appearance continues to drive the skin care market. As a result, the demand for highly trained skin care professionals serving in a variety of environments has increased. Skin Care Practices and Clinical Protocols serves as an invaluable working resource in the classroom, the treatment room and the meeting room.

Two women, virtual strangers, sit hand-in-hand across a narrow table, both intent on the same thing - achieving the perfect manicure. Encounters like this occur thousands of times across the United States in nail salons increasingly owned and operated by Asian immigrants. This study looks closely for the first time at these intimate encounters, focusing on New York City, where such nail salons have become ubiquitous. Drawing from rich and compelling interviews, Miliann Kang takes us inside the nail industry, asking such questions as: Why have nail salons become so popular? Why do so many Asian women, and Korean women in particular, provide these services? Kang discovers multiple motivations for the manicure-from the pampering of white middle class women to the artistic self-expression of working class African American women to the mass consumption of body-related services. Contrary to notions of beauty service establishments as spaces for building community among women, "The Managed Hand" finds that while tentative and fragile solidarities can emerge across the manicure table, they generally give way to even more powerful divisions of race, class, and immigration.

This comprehensive and easy to read new edition revisits the exciting venture of the fashion internship with a fresh layout and design. A pivotal point in the student career, the internship provides real-world experience within the guided realm of academia. To help students gain the most from this experience, The Fashion Intern first guides students in preparing to search for and secure an internship, and then challenges the student to critique the internship organization from the perspective of a business analyst. In this way, the student may primarily work in one area of the business, but must be exposed to the business in its entirety in order to complete the text, gaining a holistic view of the company. This new edition provides information on emerging fashion career options in communications and entrepreneurship, international internship opportunities and the role of technological tools as today's job seeker's marketing package. Interns in fashion merchandising, retailing, design, product development, promotion, and production will end up with a polished and professional product for their portfolio. New to this Edition: -- New fashion areas throughout text such as fashion communication including journalism, photography, promotion, show production and fashion entrepreneurship -- Added content on entrepreneurial small business structure and more examples of small business models throughout the text -- Additional case study examples present unique situations students may confront during the internship experience -- Added examples of advertisements, projects, assignments, and resume layouts -- Coverage of E-portfolios and other technological tools and terms-including Blackberries, iPhones, My Space, etc. -- Includes a shorter version of an evaluation tool for busy employers and combines topics for more linear coverage -- Instructor's Guide provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text in the classroom -- CD-ROM

Before her star turns on The Janice Dickinson Modeling Agency and America's Next Top Model, the stunning, exotic brunette Janice Dickinson broke the long chain of All-American blondes to become the world's first supermodel, gracing the covers of "Vogue", "Cosmopolitan", and many other major magazines. In this unadulterated memoir, she tells her incredible story, filled with dizzying highs and lows - from the cruelty and abuse of her childhood to the money, power, and fame of her stardom; from her glory days with Gia Carangi and Christie Brinkley to nights with Warren Beatty, Jack Nicholson, and Sylvester Stallone; from a dizzying drug and alcohol habit to three failed marriages; from cavorting around the globe to struggling to make it in Los Angeles as a working mum. Following her precarious ascent to stardom, her notorious fall from grace, and her triumphant journey to recovery, this captivating and cautionary tale reveals the smart, passionate woman beneath the glossy photos-and strips bare the business that made her a legend.

With Men's Fashion Reader, students of fashion have a resource to help them understand an important but sometime neglected segment of the apparel industry, men's wear. This collection of reprinted and commissioned articles covers such topics as men's fashion and meaning through history, fashion as masculinity and sexuality, fashion as defiance, fashion as identity, fashion as acculturation, body as fashion, the media and fashion, and fashion as fantasy. Design and merchandising students will find in this book insights into how and why men buy clothing and how to forecast future trends. Addressing the social, cultural, and psychological phenomenon of men's dress, the readings blend consumer behavior and history to create a better understanding of men's fashions. This book is a must-read for the well-rounded fashionista, designer, merchandiser, or fashion scholar. Features: -- Approximately 40 specially-commissioned essays, as well as articles selected from scholarly and popular sources. -- Introduction to each section, written by the editors, to draw connections between the readings and relevant theoretical perspectives. -- Topical discussion questions at the end of each article. -- Instructor's Guide with quizzes, suggestions for projects, and demonstrations of how readings can be grouped in different ways to touch upon multiple topics.

It is no coincidence that the garment industry gained a foothold in Pennsylvania's hard-coal region as mines were closing or reducing operations. "Runaway" factories, especially ones from Manhattan, set up shop in mining towns where labor was plentiful and unions scarce. By the 1930s, garment factories employed thousands of wives and daughters of unemployed or underemployed coal miners in the Wyoming Valley. Organizing workers would prove difficult for the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union (ILGWU).

Fighting for the Union Label tells the story of how workers in the Wyoming Valley, led by Min Lurye Matheson and her husband, Bill, banded together and built one of the largest and most activist movements of garment workers in the ILGWU's vast network. Workers' education, political activism, a health care center, and a widely recognized chorus were among the union's trademarks. Despite the union's influence, however, the apparel industry migrated to the American South and then overseas in the 1970s and 1980s. Tens of thousands of workers throughout the state and nation would loose their jobs, and sweatshops would become part of the economic landscape in countries like Guatemala.

The first major work on the garment industry and its workers in Pennsylvania, Fighting for the Union Label draws extensively upon the Wyoming Valley Oral History Project (co-directed by Ken and Robert Wolensky) which has collected the reminiscences of more than 325 workers, factory owners, public officials, and others. The story of the dynamic Min Matheson and the rise and fall of the garment industry provides key insights into the deindustrialization of northeastern Pennsylvania.

Textiles are central to our lives and are at the heart of the world's largest industries. In recent years there has been a dynamic shift in attitudes toward textiles, fuelled in part by explosive developments in technology. While textiles have always retained roots in craft and industry, the discipline now embraces a much wider range of practices. Innovations in the industry demand a fresh approach to the subject, which this comprehensive introduction ably supplies. Taking as their starting point the very meaning of textiles, Gale and Kaur go on to show the astonishing range of opportunities for careers in the field, from the creative (artists, craftspeople and designers) to the social and industrial, to the commercial and associated practices (buyers, journalists, researchers and scientists). The Textile Book takes us behind the scenes with professionals to reveal what various jobs involve, what influences decision makers, and how their decisions affect what we buy next season. What happens to clothes before they reach the shops? What determines the 'must have' item? How can recycled bottles be transformed into silk-like yarns? These and many other questions are explored to show the diversity that makes up the contemporary global textile scene. Woven, printed, embroidered, knitted -- textiles are pivotal to the everyday experience of people in all parts of the world. This wide-ranging and informative book conveys the excitement and new challenges textiles represent and is essential reading for anyone working with, studying or simply interested in textiles.

The garment industry is one of the world's largest industries, yet there are few sustained examinations of its importance to the global economy and the very vital role that immigrant entrepreneurship has played. Focusing on the garment industry in seven world cities Paris, London, Birmingham, Amsterdam, New York, Miami and Los Angeles this book tackles the complex relationship between the development of immigrant entrepreneurship and the shift to global, post-industrial urban economies. The interconnections among immigrant entrepreneurs, social networks, market conditions and regulatory matters are thoroughly explored in a comparative way. Starting from the idea that general social, economic and political processes manifest themselves in ever changing, historically specific shapes, the contributors offer intriguing insights into the dynamics of entrepreneurial management against the backdrop of such processes as: the differential spatial impact of economic restructuring; the significance of governance at various levels; and the conditional use of social capital. With contributions from leading experts in the field, this is a must for those wishing to supplement their knowledge in globalization, labour, economics, immigration and the garment industry broadly speaking.

Every year, thousands of young men and women descend on America's largest cities to make it big in the world of modeling. Unfortunately, most of them end up disappointed because they lack the knowledge they need to work in this exciting industry.

A few do make it, though, and you can be one of those who do. In The Wilhelmina Guide to Modeling, Natasha Esch reveals all her secrets to give you the edge you need.

In this informative and illustrated manual, you'll learn about:
• How to get started and find the right agency.

• The modeling opportunities in domestic and foreign markets, including new opportunities in the plus-size, male, and ethnic segments.

• The people who make it happen, including interviews with models, photographers, and stylists.

• And much, much more.

If you want to understand, and be a part of, the creative revolution in materials design, then Designing with Smart Textiles is the complete toolkit you need to get started. Beginning by introducing the terminology and key applications, the book goes on to examine the key design processes needed to develop interactive textile design concepts, with detailed projects and examples to help you apply these approaches in your own practice. Case studies and interviews with innovative designers introduce you to different artistic and technological practices, and demonstrate how world-leading researchers are creating new technologies, yarns, fabrics, and applications. Practitioners share unique insights into their processes, and "Tech Tips" so you can build on their research in your own work. Featured designers include: Yemi Awosile, Joanna Berzowska, Lauren Bowker, Marina Castan, Cute Circuit, Felecia Davis, Debbie Davies, Delia Dumitrescu, Martha Glazzard, Ramyah Gowrishankar, Intelligent Textiles Ltd., Sara Keith, Ebru Kurbak and Irene Posch, Barbara Layne, Eef Lubbers, Anna Persson, Mette Ramsgaard Thomsen, Rose Sinclair, Mike Starbuck, Lynn Tandler, Paola Tognazzi, Sarah Walker and Linda Worbin

Emphasizing the apparel and beauty industries, Retailing in Emerging Markets, 2nd Edition provides an in-depth study of the retail landscape within Brazil, China, India, Russia, Turkey, Qatar, Thailand, South Korea and Mexico. Each chapter focuses on a single country, discussing the organization of its retail industry, analyzing consumer behavior, and presenting strategies for effectively entering its market. This new edition includes fully updated data, statistics and economic perspectives on each of the countries covered. Readers will emerge armed with a deeper understanding of the political, economic, and cultural factors driving each market-an understanding essential for building and maintaining a competitive edge in today's global retail environment. New to this Edition * Two new chapters on South Korea and Qatar investigate the current marketplace opportunities and challenges * Increased coverage of the legislative landscapes and long-term economic outlooks for each country * Updated and new chapter case studies analyze the expansion strategies of international retailers * New Chapter Summaries and Critical Thinking Questions offer additional learning tools * Includes 60% new photos and current maps to bring the chapters to life * Expanded contributor biographies highlight the expertise of each scholar

Learn how to make ethical decisions on a daily basis. This second edition of Ethics in the Fashion Industry continues to document the relationships between functions in the fashion industry and the people who make these functions happen. Covering topics such as corporate social responsibility, social media, social compliance audits, diversity, and human rights, this book empowers students who will soon become fashion professionals to make good decisions. Whether debating issues like factory conditions, fair wages, fast fashions, or designer knock-offs, shoplifting, and controversial advertising, Ethics in the Fashion Industry gives you the tools to do the right thing. New to this Edition: Box Features: In each chapter you will find three key boxes that call your attention to current ethical practices. Ethics in the Industry highlights relevant industry practices relating to ethics; Ethics in the News analyzes recent reporting on ethics; and Ethics in Practice profiles present industry professionals' and fashion scholars' work in the context of the chapter's topic. Case Studies: Each chapter ends with two Case Studies that facilitate exploration of current and relevant industry activities into the knowledge-building process, allowing students to think critically on scenarios that may present themselves in the course of their careers. New Insights: The responsibility that millennials, Gen Xers, and Gen Nexters have in positioning not only the fashion industry, but the planet itself, for a healthy future cannot go unobserved. This second edition includes new insights about generational behaviors and perspectives in making ethical decisions, in addition to the role that consumers play in shaping fashion industry decisions. Ethics in the Fashion Industry STUDIO Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary

Less than three decades ago, when the Chinese bought cloth or clothes, they would have had to use a government-issued coupon. Today the Chinese fashion industry is one of the most dynamic in the world - it not only supplies fashions to the increasingly discerning domestic market, but also provides one-third of the clothing sold in the global market. How did this phenomenal transition come about? What can the growth of the Chinese fashion industry tell us about the post-Mao China? What roles do the local and the global play in the dramatic changes? This book offers a historically informed, ethnographically grounded and interpretive analysis of contemporary Chinese fashion and the fashion industry. It examines the interplay of state politics, market forces, local social and cultural factors, and the global political economy, both in the rise of the Chinese fashion industry and in the life and work of Chinese fashion professionals. As the first ethnographic account of the Chinese fashion industry in the post-Mao era, The Chinese Fashion Industry combines first-hand accounts with sophisticated cultural analysis to offer new insights, and will be of interest to students and scholars of fashion, anthropology and China.

This text is designed to introduce undergraduate students to the central concepts of fashion trend analysis and forecasting. Exploring the roles of both consumers and industry personnel as product developers, gatekeepers, and promoters of fashion trends, the book demonstrates how and why forecasting is vital to successful product and brand development. Fashion Trends: Analysis and Forecasting covers a wide range of key topics, such as the impact of fashion consumption on the environment, economic development, and socio-cultural change, as well as the impact of social responsibility and the digital consumer on current fashion trends. Designed to aid teaching and learning, each chapter includes key words, summaries, engaging case studies, discussion questions, and suggested class activities. Using this book as a guide, students will develop an understanding of the process, methods, and influence of trend analysis and forecasting for the fashion business, and will be encouraged to think through the core issues creatively. An essential text for students of fashion and design.

If the trade papers report that gloves are making a comeback, should production start manufacturing them? How would someone judge and react to a woman walking down the street in a purple wig and spandex body suit? What is accurate and inaccurate to conclude about her appearance? Research is the foundation for understanding consumers and making informed decisions. Based on their experience in academia, the authors provide the tools for students and professionals to analyze and develop critical thinking skills and sift through what is read and seen to understand the target market for which they will design, buy, market, or manage in the fashion industry. Both a textbook and manual for undergraduate and graduate students studying research methods used in the fashion industry, it can also serve as a reference for industry professionals. Features: -- Includes concepts, theories and research examples drawn from juried academic articles, trade journals and business research studies -- Examples, key terms/concepts, questions, problems, summaries and learning activities all relate directly to the fashion industry -- Each chapter includes a "Highlight of a Researcher" and "Highlight of a Fashion Business" that conducts research -- Workbook/manual format permits students to reference for ongoing and additional research -- Instructor's Guide provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text in the classroom -- PowerPoint(r) Presentation provides outlines and ideas for lectures; compatible with PC and Mac platforms