The term 'tailored' has changed as methods of manufacture and the retailing of clothes have evolved. This book demonstrates the wide range of cutting methods used to produce garments which are described as 'tailored' jackets. Although the main focus is on modern methods of producing clothing, a rich and complex cutting tradition is acknowledged and used. It is hoped that the modern garment designer will be inspired to rediscover methods that retain their validity today.

The different approaches to 'tailored' cutting are described under three headings: bespoke cutting, engineered cutting and style cutting. The rich heritage of the latter came from the tremendous creativity that was unleashed by women's emancipation at the beginning of the twentieth century and the merging of tailored styles with fashionable clothing. The section on style cutting has therefore derived some of the cutting techniques from that period, thus demonstrating how they can be applied to current methods of production.

Fashion generates over a trillion dollars in sales annually and has the priceless ability to beguile its customers around the world. Fashion Entrepreneurship: The Creation of the Global Fashion Business provides the first authoritative history of the global fashion industry, from its emergence to the present day, with a focus on the entrepreneurs at the nucleus of many of the world's influential brands. It shows how successive generations of entrepreneurs built and developed their brands, democratizing access to fashion brands throughout the world. This book analyzes the careers of the greatest fashion entrepreneurs from the nineteenth century onward, including such legendary names as Charles Worth, Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Giorgio Armani. It shows how this distinct form of entrepreneurship has arisen and what lessons new entrepreneurs can learn from the past to create thriving fashion businesses in today's rapidly changing modern world. Filled with fascinating stories from the world of fashion, as well as detailed business analysis and practical advice for people looking to create successful brands, Fashion Entrepreneurship is an essential read for students of fashion and entrepreneurship, and anyone looking to understand, and succeed in, this most glamorous of industries.

In the decade since Writing for the Fashion Business was first published, the Internet and social media have upended the field of journalism and the fashion world, revolutionizing both industries and changing the very nature of storytelling. This second edition devotes significant space to digital content, with dedicated chapters covering online content, social media, and streaming video content. In addition to journalism, it also includes instruction on how to write for new promotional approaches emerging in the fashion world like influencer and experiential marketing, and introduces inclusion vocabulary to ensure non-discriminatory narratives. Whether in the form of an article, book, press release, email, or DM, students will gain an understanding of how written communication methods sync up with today's most common methods of commerce and communication. New to this Edition: -Trending Topic box features in each chapter discuss recent, real-life controversial situations within the fashion industry and invite students to share their ideas, concerns, and recommendations related to the situation -All new Industry Profiles in each chapter allow students to read first-hand accounts of what it's like to work in the sector of the fashion business that corresponds to the chapter topic -Chapter ending Review Questions and Learning Activities prompt students to test their knowledge STUDIO Features Include: -Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary Instructor Resources -Instructor's Guide provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text in the classroom, supplemental assignments, and lecture notes

Fashion generates over a trillion dollars in sales annually and has the priceless ability to beguile its customers around the world. Fashion Entrepreneurship: The Creation of the Global Fashion Business provides the first authoritative history of the global fashion industry, from its emergence to the present day, with a focus on the entrepreneurs at the nucleus of many of the world's influential brands. It shows how successive generations of entrepreneurs built and developed their brands, democratizing access to fashion brands throughout the world. This book analyzes the careers of the greatest fashion entrepreneurs from the nineteenth century onward, including such legendary names as Charles Worth, Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Giorgio Armani. It shows how this distinct form of entrepreneurship has arisen and what lessons new entrepreneurs can learn from the past to create thriving fashion businesses in today's rapidly changing modern world. Filled with fascinating stories from the world of fashion, as well as detailed business analysis and practical advice for people looking to create successful brands, Fashion Entrepreneurship is an essential read for students of fashion and entrepreneurship, and anyone looking to understand, and succeed in, this most glamorous of industries.

For fashion students who want to be both in the now and in the know! The Dynamics of Fashion, Sixth Edition, has the latest facts and figures, and the most current theories in fashion development, production, and merchandising, giving you the foundation you need in the industry. It offers hundreds of real-life examples of leading brands and industry trends, to show you fashion careers and how to apply what you learn. The book also covers sustainable fashion, wearable technology, social media, and more in detail. An online STUDIO includes self-quizzes, flashcards, and links to videos. New to this Edition -New chapter on sustainability with current industry processes -New chapter on fashion careers and how to get started in the industry -All Fashion Focus box features have been updated to current topics and industry trends The Dynamics of Fashion, 6th Edition STUDIO -Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips -Review concepts with flashcards of terms and definitions and image identification -Branch out with links to curated online multi-media resources that bring chapter concepts to life -Expand your knowledge by further exploring special features Fashion Focus, Sustainability, and Social media Instructor Resources -Instructor's Guide featuring answers to end-of-chapter activities, supplemental student activities and assignments, a comprehensive test bank of multiple choice, identification, true or false, and essay questions for each chapter and unit, and a guide to exploring careers -PowerPoint (R) presentations include full-color images from the book and provide a framework for lecture and discussion -Curated digital library of special supplemental resources for all of the text's features including categorical links to articles, image galleries, and videos from respected trade, fashion, and news websites

Average body mass in many Western cultures is getting larger and yet the fashion system seems mostly unchanged. Major fashion houses still limit their output to small sizes and the dominant ideal of the female body in fashion imagery is still thin – dangerously thin according to World Health Organization standards. Why is the industry forfeiting a considerable share of the market in the form of plus-size consumers, seemingly against its commercial interests? Why does the thin ideal reign supreme despite damning evidence of its harm to women? And is there a way out of this system of thin ideals and segregated fat bodies? In this original study, Paolo Volonté answers these questions and more, drawing on influential literature on the body, beauty standards and the roles of clothing in society. He reveals some surprising factors behind the perpetuation of the thin ideal such as the precedent of thin models and the introduction of standardised sizing for mass-manufactured clothing. He also revisits less surprising factors such as the attitudes of designers and consumers towards the female body, and notions of 'perfection'. By critically analysing these factors, Volonté reveals why plus-size fashion is often characterised by 'low aesthetic commitment' and low quality marketing. He explores the nature of the segregation of fat bodies in fashion and considers what the future may hold for consumers, designers and marketers alike.

The global beauty business permeates our lives, influencing how we perceive ourselves and what it is to be beautiful. The brands and firms which have shaped this industry, such as Avon, Coty, Estee Lauder, L'Oreal, and Shiseido, have imagined beauty for us.
This book provides the first authoritative history of the global beauty industry from its emergence in the nineteenth century to the present day, exploring how today's global giants grew. It shows how successive generations of entrepreneurs built brands which shaped perceptions of beauty, and the business organizations needed to market them. They democratized access to beauty products, once the privilege of elites, but they also defined the gender and ethnic borders of beauty, and its association with a handful of cities, notably Paris and later New York. The result was a homogenization of beauty ideals throughout the world.
Today globalization is changing the beauty industry again; its impact can be seen in a range of competing strategies. Global brands have swept into China, Russia, and India, but at the same time, these brands are having to respond to a far greater diversity of cultures and lifestyles as new markets are opened up worldwide.
In the twenty first century, beauty is again being re-imagined anew.

This is your invitation to the front row. Spanning over seven decades and 300 shows, this beautiful book tells the story of the high fashion catwalk. Through this inspirational collection of fashion show invites and tales from fashion week, curator and fashion writer Iain R Webb opens a window into the world's most exclusive fashion houses. Whether it's dreamy romance at Givenchy, cutting-edge modernity at Alexander McQueen, floral drama at Valentino, vintage-inspired fun at Kenzo or heartfelt emotion at Yves Saint Laurent's final haute couture show, the unique themes and styles that have graced the runway in the past 50 years are gloriously curated and described in The Fashion Show. From understated presentation to melodramatic performance, this stylish archive is your passport to the international fashion collections.

The first-ever book celebrating black models, filled with revealing essays, interviews, and stunning photographs To date, there has never been a book devoted exclusively to black models. Supreme Models fills that void, paying tribute to black models past and present: from the first to be featured in catalogs and on magazine covers, like Iman, Beverly Johnson, and Donyale Luna, to the supermodels who reigned in the nineties-Tyra Banks and Naomi Campbell. The book also observes the newest generation of models-Adwoa Aboah, Jourdan Dunn, and Joan Smalls-who are shaking up the fashion industry by speaking out about racial prejudice and becoming social media sensations. Written by celebrity stylist and journalist Marcellas Reynolds, Supreme Models features more than 70 women from the last 60 years. The book is filled with gorgeous photographs of the women, and details their most memorable covers, campaigns, runway shows, and editorials. Black models have been influencing fashion and pop culture for decades, reshaping the standards and boundaries of beauty. Supreme Models is a celebration of their monumental impact.

This book explores the dynamic landscape of fashion in China since the beginning of the 21st century through an integrated perspective. The book considers key questions related to the changes in China's fashion dynamics driven largely by the shifts in the mindset of Chinese consumers due to the current sociocultural contexts. To provide an understanding of these important shifts, this three-part monograph pays close attention to the new generation of Chinese fashion designers and consumers. The book explores in detail related topics such as, how today's Chinese consumers relate to foreign brands, the meaning of apparel brands as identity symbols or cultural signs to contemporary young consumers, the attractiveness of Western fashion designers and brands in the eyes of current Chinese consumers as compared to past consumers, and how brands could adapt to the online-centered consumption behavior. The book serves as an insightful update on the Chinese fashion landscape for researchers, practitioners and passionate followers of its evolution.

This book offers a multidisciplinary perspective on research and developments at the interface between industrial design, textile engineering and fashion. It covers advances in fashion and product design, and in textile production alike, reporting on smart and sustainable industrial procedures and 3D printing, issues in marketing and communication, and topics concerning social responsibility, sustainability, emotions, creativity and education. It highlights research that is expected to foster the development of design and fashion on a global and interdisciplinary scale. Gathering the proceedings of the 5th International Fashion and Design Congress, CIMODE 2022, held on July 4-7, 2022, in Guimaraes, Portugal, this book offers extensive information and a source of inspiration to both researchers and professionals in the field of fashion, design, engineering, communication as well as education.

This contributed volume captures some of the most current topics and trends in the fashion industry. It provides a theoretical and empirical analysis of the behaviour of firms in this fast-moving industry with a focus on their resources, capabilities and routines around communication and sustainability strategies in an international context. It covers hot topics such as the role of social media, sustainability, and luxury as well as brief mention on how the Covid-19 pandemic will impact fashion brands. With contributions from practitioners and academics, this book provides an overview of the debates, analysis and best practices, making it an invaluable resource for anyone studying or researching the fashion industry, branding, or luxury.

This textbook describes the structure of the industry in the UK and globally, and explains the current problems and strategic responses to global shifts in production. The new edition has been updated throughout to include the lastest available data, and takes account of the acceleration of the decline of manufacturing in the UK since 2002, the rapid expansion of production in China, and the final demise of the system of quota control.
Essential subject for students at undergraduate and postgraduate levels.
An expert guide to a bewilderingly complex industry.
No competition.
Addresses global issues, the opportunities and threats, with strategies for survival.
Author is Editor of "International Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management."

Beyond Fashion provides a behind-the-scenes peek into the world of fashion, a universe that is as fascinating and creative as it is inextricably linked to commercial, psychological and social canons. This thoroughly-illustrated volume covers all elements of the fashion business beyond clothing, from the commercial to psychological and sociological aspects of the industry. Branding, marketing, retailing, merchandising and business identity, style, the eternal pursuit of beauty, and the search for personal expression are the fundamental aspects of an industry which has evolved to become one of the most sophisticated, influential and dynamic sectors in the world. The implications are not just economic: what we wear conveys who we are. Clothes and accessories are the bearers of complex psychological and social canons, they are aesthetic products, means of self-definition and objects of desire. Complementary to the evolution of fashion itself, hand-in-hand with changes in taste throughout history, the practice of shopping has undergone epic transformations, becoming a daily activity, an integral part of everyday life. So, which elements are involved in the creation of this 'desire'? What are the ingredients of fashion alchemy? This book reveals these and many more secrets of the fashion business.

Fashion ephemera-from catalogues and invitations to press releases-have long been overlooked by the fashion industry and fashion academics. Fashion Remains redresses the balance, putting these objects centre stage and focusing on the wider creative practice of contemporary fashion designers, photographers, graphic designers, make-up artists, and many more. Fashion ephemera are considered not as disposable promotional devices, but as windows into hidden networks of collaboration and value creation in the fashion system. Taking an interdisciplinary approach, Fashion Remains explores the unseen and privately circulated fashion ephemera produced by today's most prominent international fashion designers such as Margiela, Yamamoto, and Raf Simons. Showcasing a unique archive of materials, it focuses on Antwerp's avant-garde fashion scene and reveals the potential of these ephemeral objects to evoke and call into question material and immaterial knowledge about the fashion industry's actors, practices and ideologies.

How fashion becomes fashion: innovations in textiles   The  Première group has been a source of inspiration for fashion professionals the world over for 45 years, constantly inspiring and making sense of the latest trends. Its international trade fairs have become events for all industry creatives who seek out makers of fabrics, leather, accessories, and more to help innovate their collections and make their lines successful. This book, beautifully illustrated with archival images, photography from magazine features, and portraits of craftspeople and designers, recounts the story of the group, originally formed by 15 weavers from Lyon, France, and focuses on the fashion revolutions of the past decade. For those interested in fashion, here is a new perspective on its creation and a glimpse into the industry of the future.

Despite being vastly different both socially and economically, art and fashion are increasingly converging to collaborate in mutually advantageous ways. This book discusses the mutual benefits of collaboration through analysis of successful case studies, including corporate art collections and museums, patronage and sponsorship initiatives, and art-based brand management in the fashion sector. It provides a categorization of the strategies that fashion firms employ when they join the art world and illustrates how art and fashion brands can interact strategically at different levels. This book will be a valuable resource to researchers, providing an enhanced understanding of the potential of artification for managing brands and products.

Written for fashion graduates, newbie entrepreneurs and those in entry-level positions in the industry, Blue is the New Black demystifies the process of how to make a fashion collection accessible for all levels. It's a reference guide, a buddy, and an overview of who, what and where. Fashion is a multi-billion-dollar industry. It's not just about sketching an outfit, it's about selecting fabric, developing buttons, sourcing a factory, negotiating prices, making patterns, seeing the final launch and selling garments. This multi-faceted industry is exciting, enigmatic and endless. With many fashion schools now recognising the importance of including technical modules to their degrees, this guide is the perfect accompaniment to the relevant modules with its vocational a to z approach of what happens in the workplace, including how to build and maintain key business relationships. In that respect, it fills a gap in the market of books that give guidance for professionals embarking on or preparing for a career in the fashion industry. People who buy Blue is the New Black want to know how to create a collection. They want to roll up their sleeves and do it, but they need practical instruction on the different phases. They don't want to read about data management systems or the latest developments in polyester thread; they want to understand what a range plan is and how to look at a prototype in a factory. Understanding the three profiles of her readers "first jobber, creative entrepreneur and creative graduate" as the author does, she realized that the publications currently available would alienate them and ignore their needs. Seeing this gap in the market, she wrote it herself, to the benefit of a million young professionals and students aspiring to enter and get ahead in the fashion industry.

Fashion Brand Merchandising introduces the concepts and practices that will help students build, develop, and work with fashion brands, Beginning with an overview of the branding concept and a description of those professionals and processes that develop the brand image and the actual products identified with that image, this text covers how branding and merchandising activities are interrelated and interdependent with respect to marketing fashion-related products. In whatever capacity, you work with fashion brands - marketer, merchandiser, retailer, or designer - this text includes information you will need to work meaningfully with fashion brands. Features -- Focus on Fashion Brands feature an article or case study relevant to the topics of the specific chapters -- Brand Managers Notebook - exercises designed to assist development of your career -- BRANDLAB provides an opportunity to create a fashion brand -- Instructor's Guide provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text -- Powerpoint presentation

Why do some luxury companies remain resilient through times of change, while others do not? The reason is that these companies have unique skills to diversify their revenue generation by being ambidextrous. Luxury companies today cannot depend on their reputation or their creativity alone to remain resilient, rather they require the ability to be ambidextrous - to explore new trajectories for future growth and exploiting their iconic values. In past decades, the industry has shifted from product to customer centric and forced companies to adopt new strategies and approaches to succeed. This includes the adoption of digital platforms such as ecommerce, social media and mobile enabled tools to continually elevate customer experience. In addition, new business models have emerged to address growing pains, particularly in inventory issues, over manufacturing and sustainability. Brands today are forced to adopt evolution through innovation that is anchored by new values without compromising their DNA. Based on in-depth research and interviews with CEOs from leading luxury companies, Lojacono and Pan show how companies can hedge their risks and remain resilient in times of change.

Lead in lipstick? 1,4 dioxane in baby soap? Coal tar in shampoo? How is this possible? Simple. The $35 billion cosmetics industry is so powerful they've kept themselves unregulated for decades. Not Just a Pretty Face chronicles the quest that led a group of health and environmental activists to the world's largest cosmetics companies to ask some tough questions: * Why do companies market themselves as pink ribbon leaders in the fight against breast cancer, yet use hormone-disrupting and carcinogenic chemicals that may contribute to that very disease?* Why do products used by men and women of childbearing age contain chemicals linked to birth defects and infertility? As doors slammed in their faces and the beauty myth peeled away, the industry's toxic secrets began to emerge. This scathing investigation peels away less-than-lovely layers to expose an industry in dire need of an extreme makeover. The good news is that while the major multinational companies fight for their right to use hazardous chemicals, entrepreneurs are developing safer non-toxic technologies and building businesses on the values of health, justice and personal empowerment.

The Academy Awards' red-carpet is the most prominent fashion show in media culture. Fashion on the Red Carpet investigates the historical liaison between Hollywood and fashion institutions, to describe how public relations campaigns and the media articulate fashion discourses around the Oscars. The power-shift towards television, the emergence of celebrity culture, the post-war reactivation of transatlantic trade, the growth of fashion journalism, and the increasing circulation of designer names in the media, are converging factors leading to the institutionalisation of the red-carpet as a fashion event in its own right. Departing from archival sources, and tracing discourses of fashion, stardom, and celebrity surrounding Hollywood and the Oscars, this fascinating book explains how the red-carpet became a marquee for the endorsement of high-end fashion brands.

This book is available open access through the Bloomsbury Open Access programme and is available on www.bloomsburycollections.com. It is funded by Knowledge Unlatched. The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world. With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print and material culture. Through analysis of archives, visual chronicles, press, and garments, and covering an impressive range of topics, from the feathered showgirl in Paris to the evolution of pilots' uniforms, these exciting essays show how fashion, even temporarily, encouraged the articulation of an identity, a society, and a nation. Fashion, Society, and the First World War provides an extensive overview by leading fashion historians on an industry in the midst of major transformation and is both an invaluable guide and starting point for all researchers, curators, and students interested in fashion history and the cultural history of the period.

"Elizabeth Currid's hip trip through New York's production of creative culture is a tour de force."--Quincy Jones, producer

"I've uttered the words 'It just kind of happened' with a shrug hundreds of times when asked about the quick success of my band. Elizabeth Currid blows that lazy response to smithereens by showing the work behind 'word of mouth.' I think I'll have a better answer now."--Lee Sargent, Clap Your Hands Say Yeah

"The old economy made deals over golf games and three-martini lunches. Creative New York organizes its networks around art openings, fashion shows, and nightlife. But these networks are a lot more than fun and games. They are deeply important to how new innovations are produced, how cities work to sustain creativity and turn it into commercial value. Cities drive our economies; creativity drives our cities. With her keen eye, sharp analysis, and detailed fieldwork, Elizabeth Currid shows us why and how. In "The Warhol Economy," she has unlocked the best-kept secrets in New York."--Richard Florida, author of "The Rise of the Creative Class"

"Elizabeth Currid's "The Warhol Economy" raises distinctive policy implications: namely, cities will get bigger payoffs by supporting milieu rather than museum. Laws that hurt the clubs are almost as bad as the rising rents that price-out the artists. Tax breaks to corporations make no sense whatever. Currid is more than plausible on all these issues."--Harvey Molotch, New York University

"Elizabeth Currid has written a wonderful book. She shows that the arts and culture are not simply 'service industries.' Examining arts and culture in New York for the understanding they provide about deeper changes in our world, Currid addresses fundamental sociological issues while also engaging the general reader--with clarity, insight, humor, and passion. The reader feels taken along to the offices and nightclubs where some of the most creative people in New York gather."--Terry Clark, University of Chicago

The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers: Menswear offers patternmaking techniques for a variety of garment styles and includes information on sizing, lining, and a variety of fabrics. Covering everything from casual to tailored designs, it can serve both as an introduction to the pattern-drafting skills necessary for menswear and as a more in-depth treatment of patternmaking techniques. The guide covers the patternmaking process for an array of menswear garments, as well as the accompanying theories and concepts.