Recent decades have seen the rise of a global beauty boom, with profound effects on perceptions of bodies worldwide. Against this background, Beauty and the Norm assembles ethnographic and conceptual approaches from a variety of disciplines and across the globe to debate standardization in bodily appearance. Its contributions range from empirical research to exploratory conversations between scholars and personal reflections. Bridging hitherto separate debates in critical beauty studies, cultural anthropology, sociology, the history of science, disability studies, gender studies, and critical race studies, this volume reflects upon the gendered, classed, and racialized body, normative regimes of representation, and the global beauty economy.

'Meet Luca Turin, a renegade scientist and perfume critic with an extraordinary sense of smell.' Newsday Funny, irreverent and passionate, The Secret of Scent opens the lid on two worlds - the glamorous and highly lucrative realm of the perfume makers, and the equally rivalrous domain of smell science. Smell is our forgotten sense. Long neglected by science in favour of more prestigious areas of research, it's also barely understood in general life. At the core of our sense of smell lies an enigma: why do things smell the way they do? How is smell written into the molecules? This book is the story of the quest to solve this puzzle. Luca Turin has been described in The Economist as 'a man with a powerful nose and a bizarre obsession with perfume.' Starting with a tour of the great perfumes and their gifted makers, he shows how few people have an idea of what perfume is or how it is made, let alone how smell works and what part it plays in other pleasures like food. But not everyone has ignored this powerful sense. A small band of mavericks has been trying to crack the code of smell for seventy years. Building on their work, Turin thinks he has succeeded. And like all good mysteries, the solution was all the while hidden in plain sight - in this case, right under our noses.

Fashion as a societal phenomenon has fascinated scholars in different disciplines such as history, sociology, anthropology, psychology, and marketing often from an interdisciplinary perspective. Fashion mirrors societal changes, cultural norms and values over time. It can be interpreted as mundane everyday practices, constructions of identity and status as well as being associated with the art world. In this book, the focus lies on marketing and the role of marketers when fashion permeates society in deliberate and subtle ways. This edited collection critically reflects upon the power of fashion in contemporary society and the role marketing and marketers have in the process of defining, creating and preserving fashion, but also for divesting fashion that is no longer up to date. It expands on existing knowledge to better understand the role marketers play as cultural agents in determining fashion and its markets. Contributors to the book are international, advanced scholars in marketing and sociology challenging traditional ways of thinking. In a society where problems with overproduction and overconsumption represent major challenges, the critical perspective of the role fashion plays in contemporary society and what influence marketing has for shaping fashion is not merely relevant, but necessary. This cutting edge, interdisciplinary book will appeal to scholars across a broad range of fields including fashion marketing, fashion studies, consumer culture and research, as well as sociology and anthropology. It will also be valuable for students in advanced courses of study in a variety of disciplines besides marketing.

This book investigates the success story of the fast fashion industry-mainly owned by Chinese migrants-in Prato, Italy. It outlines how Prato has become the center of a value chain stretching from suppliers in China and Turkey all the way to buyers in Europe. Despite this, a policy attacking Chinese entrepreneurship has been devised and implemented in Prato. This volume analyzes said policy against the crisis of Prato's textile industry. Based on the author's 15 years of fieldwork in Prato, the book sheds light on the entangled processes of city making and the restructuring processes linked to capital accumulation by tackling issues of governance, territory, migration, division of labor, labor mobility, housing, and human rights.

Luxury Marketing, Sustainability and Technology explores how new technologies, sustainability and relationship marketing impact and change the future of luxury brand management. Whilst the luxury industry is experiencing exponential growth, further research is vital to improve knowledge and understand how luxury management operates in the new age of marketing. Through a range of empirical and theoretical contributions, this book offers clear insights on relationship marketing and luxury management. It examines the growth of luxury, marketing strategies for luxury brands, advertising and communication of luxury brands, AI and disruptive technology in luxury marketing, and sustainability and pro-environmental luxury. All the chapters close with practical summaries and recommendations for businesses practice. This book is a useful reference for scholars and postgraduate researchers across luxury management and marketing, including those interested in international marketing, social media marketing, fashion management, as well as innovation management and sustainability.

This edited volume comprises ideas, visions, strategies, and dreams of entrepreneurs, managers, scientists and political experts who share their best practice experience relating to the joint goal of a more sustainable, humanistic, and responsible fashion industry. Readers will find a variety of approaches and strategies that in sum represent a rich pool of insights and cases for anyone interested in the study of new management perspectives and in the systematic advancement of sustainable fashion.In 14 chapters, international authors discuss topics such as Sustainable Business Models, Cradle-to-Cradle, Circular Economy, Human Rights, Ethical Supply Chain Management, Sustainable Fashion Consumption, Certification and Auditing, Traceability, Impact Measurement, and Industry Transformation. Business case studies include H&M, Filippa K, Melawear, Otto, Tauko, and Tchibo. Further brands that are discussed in the book are Prada, Burberry, Hermes, Hugo Boss, and many more. The book demonstrates that sustainable fashion can hardly be realized by just one actor or by using just one business tool or governance instrument. The sustainable transformation of the textile sector requires concerted action of businesses, governments, NGOs, and consumers to clearly demonstrate a coalition for change and a willingness and power to end inhumane and unsustainable business practices in the 21st century. The sum of innovative approaches and solutions presented in this book shows that the momentum for change is strong and that mutual learning, respect and collaboration can lead to interesting and effective new paths of co-creation and shared responsibility in the fashion industry.

This unique text offers a holistic, insightful and timely exploration of sustainable practices across the fashion industry. The book takes the reader logically through each part of the authors’ new Responsible 9 Framework™, providing a clear perspective and examples for each component. The framework thoroughly explains the move away from a singular product commercial focus to a Conscious Item approach and Circular Services business mindset. An organisation’s people are at the heart of the new framework and have therefore been rebranded as Community. Next addressed is the Perceived Value of an item or brand, and how sustainable pricing initiatives actively influence consumer purchase. Insights into Accountable Systems are reviewed to examine the importance of responsible processes when considering and integrating a successful, sustainable supply chain into a fashion business. The section on Governance looks at the different global organisations available to fashion brands and customers alike, which support their transition into a responsible and sustainable future existence. The last two sections of the framework are labelled Storytelling Platforms and Honest Communication, where transparent and honest strategies are highlighted and discussed from a viewpoint of how modern brands are engaging and connecting to the new conscious consumer. For each of the nine aspects, contemporary case studies from global brands such as Stella McCartney, Zalando and Arc'teryx, alongside insights from current, leading experts within the fashion world, bring the theory to life. Showing how sustainability has been integrated throughout the entirety of the fashion business, this textbook is perfect for advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students Fashion Management, Fashion Brand Management and Fashion Marketing, as well as reflective leaders and practitioners within the industry.

From the ashes of the Second World War came forward-thinking fashions, the likes of which had never been seen before. The early Forties were defined by thriftiness and practicality, a make-do-and-mend attitude in a time of war. However, the latter half of the decade saw the emergence of the traditional femininity, elegance and luxury often associated with the era. Spanning the austerity of the war years to the introduction of Dior's revolutionary New Look, this extensive survey brings together vintage photography and illustrations to follow the season-by-season fashion evolution of the Forties, providing a comprehensive overview of this period of contrasts. 1940s Fashion: The Definitive Sourcebook covers every aspect of female fashions from the decade, from lace evening gowns, tailored jackets and furs to figure-sculpting undergarments, satin negligees and scandalous bikinis, offering the most comprehensive appraisal of this age of wartime and post-war glamour. This in-depth look at the styles and trends that shaped 1940s fashion features images of the decade's most iconic stars and designers. Stylish leading ladies such as Veronica Lake, Joan Bennett and Barbara Stanwyck are included as well as designs by Dior, Lucien Lelong, Balmain and Worth. Authored and edited by renowned design historian, Charlotte Fiell, this volume also contains an authoritative introduction by fashion historian, Emmanuelle Dirix, as well as the biographies of the key designers and fashion houses of the period.

Exploring the debate over the benefits of legal protection for fashion design, this book focuses on how a combination of minimal legal protections for design, evolving social norms, digital technology, and market forces can promote innovation and creativity in a business known for its fast-paced remixing and borrowing. Focusing on the advantages and disadvantages of the main US and EU IP laws that protect fashion design in the world's biggest fashion markets, it describes how recent US case law in copyright and trademark cases has led to misaligned incentives for the industry and a lack of clear protection, while in the EU, the CJEU's interpretation of the pan-European design rights system has created significant overlap with copyright law and risks leading to the overprotection of design. The book proposes that creativity and innovation in fashion derive some benefit from a limited unregistered design right protection and that cumulation with copyright protection is unhelpful. It also proposes that there is a larger role for developing social norms relating to sustainability, the ethics of cultural appropriation, and the online shaming of counterfeiters, that can also help create a fair equilibrium between protection and borrowing in fashion design.

Exploring the debate over the benefits of legal protection for fashion design, this book focuses on how a combination of minimal legal protections for design, evolving social norms, digital technology, and market forces can promote innovation and creativity in a business known for its fast-paced remixing and borrowing. Focusing on the advantages and disadvantages of the main US and EU IP laws that protect fashion design in the world's biggest fashion markets, it describes how recent US case law in copyright and trademark cases has led to misaligned incentives for the industry and a lack of clear protection, while in the EU, the CJEU's interpretation of the pan-European design rights system has created significant overlap with copyright law and risks leading to the overprotection of design. The book proposes that creativity and innovation in fashion derive some benefit from a limited unregistered design right protection and that cumulation with copyright protection is unhelpful. It also proposes that there is a larger role for developing social norms relating to sustainability, the ethics of cultural appropriation, and the online shaming of counterfeiters, that can also help create a fair equilibrium between protection and borrowing in fashion design.

* Develops the concept of the Celebrity as a Human Fashion Brand, which offers a fresh perspective in the Fashion Marketing field. * Includes a broad range of well-known case studies in every chapter, coupled with reflective questions, which can be used for in-class exercises. * Ideal recommended reading for advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students studying Celebrity Fashion and Influencer Marketing, Fashion Marketing, Fashion Brand Management and Consumer Behaviour.

First Published in 1990 Unpacking the Fashion Industry spotlights a side of the industry the consumer never sees. What is the fashion clothing industry really like? What lies behind the glamour of the cat-walks and the glossy magazines? Annie Phizacklea focuses on the small firm sector of fashionwear production, based predominantly on ethnic entrepreneurship and cheap female labour and analyses the complex interaction of gender, class and racism in this sector of the industry. This book is a must read for scholars and researchers of sociology, gender studies and social anthropology.

Using various research methodologies, such as reviews, case studies, analytical modeling and empirical studies, this book investigates luxury fashion retail management and provides relevant insights, which are beneficial to both industrialists and academics. Readers gain an understanding of luxury fashion retailing, including proper operations and strategic management, which now are the most crucial items on the luxury fashion industry's senior management agenda.

This book explores editorial and advertising discourses related to cosmetic procedures and beauty products and services in UK lifestyle magazines, offering a holistic perspective on the normalisation of cosmetic procedures and the societal context in which particular perceptions have flourished. The volume examines the societal climate that contributed to cultural perceptions of the body as object and project, and constructions of masculinities and femininities as context for developments in lifestyle magazines' content on beauty and cosmetic procedures. Integrating approaches from Critical Discourse Analysis, Thematic Analysis, and Content Analysis, Hermans explores the varying ways in which cosmetic procedures and other beauty products are marketed to different audiences and examines phenomena such as the problem/solution rhetoric, and developments in beauty advertising discourse specifically targeted at men. The book also investigates the continuum view of beauty products and cosmetic procedures, and examines the implications of these blurred boundaries for the regulation of the cosmetic surgery industry. This innovative contribution to research on the representation of cosmetic procedures and beauty products in the media will be of interest to scholars researching at the intersection of language, gender, individualised body projects, and sexuality.

* Goes beyond branding theory to provide real-world solutions for beleaguered fashion retailers * Covers the full spectrum of fashion brands, from mass market to luxury * Co-authored by a consultant with 30 years' experience in fashion and interior design, and a postdoctoral researcher at the renowned Sorbonne

* Takes a truly holistic and interdisciplinary approach to sustainable fashion management * Fashion Management is growing in popularity as a postgraduate degree throughout the world, with UK institutions particularly well recognised as course providers. Sustainability is increasingly covered as a core module. * Competing titles are either research-based and technical or focus on one specific area of fashion sustainability, such as materials. This text provides a much more comprehensive and interdisciplinary outlook as well as a practical approach, combining theory with practical application from a management perspective.

Summarizing the extant research on marketing communications, social media and word of mouth, this book clarifies terms often incorrectly and interchangeably used by scholars and marketers and provides principles of effective marketing communications in social media for different brand types and in different geographic markets. Conversations among consumers on social media now have an unprecedented ability to shape attitudes toward people, products, services, brands and to influence buying decisions. Consequently, the digital era brings to the fore the importance of interpersonal relations and the power of personal recommendations. This book is the first to empirically investigate how the form and appeal of marketing communications in social networks influence electronic word of mouth, including an examination of brand type and geographic market. The author focuses on motivations and reveals why people exchange opinions about brands, products and services in the digital environment. The book summarizes the existing research on marketing communications, social media and word of mouth, provides a cutting-edge knowledge based on the analysis of the actual behavior of consumers and rules of effective marketing communications in social media. This research-based book is written for scholars and researchers within the fields of marketing and communication. It may also be of interest to a wider audience interested in understanding how to use social media to influence electronic word of mouth.

To run a successful fashion label you need to know about business as well as design. Packed with tips, case studies and tasks to help you analyse yourself, your market and your product, this book is for anyone wanting to start their own fashion business. Thoroughly revised for the social media age, with updated images throughout. With eight new case studies: AwaytoMars (Brazil/UK), FFM Dubai (UAE), Picture Organic (France), Vetta Capsule (US), ADAY, Farm, Olivia Burton (UK), and The Goods Department (Indonesia).

From the turbulence of the 1930s emerged the Golden Age of Glamour. Framed by two world-changing events - the economic crash of 1929 and the outbreak of the Second World War - the 1930s saw new looks emerge and thrive, despite economic and social uncertainty. This was the decade of the bias cut, the statement shoulder, the puff sleeve, the tea dress, the fur shrug and the floor-length evening gown. It was also the era that saw Hollywood challenge Paris's fashion crown and its stars become fashion icons, signalling a new grown-up direction in womenswear design. Packed with over 500 original photographs, illustrations and sketches from the decade, this is an essential guide for any fashion historian, student or vintage enthusiast. These classic images have been selected from popular fashion publications of the day, mail-order catalogues and Hollywood studio press shots, including material from Chic Parisien, Harper's Bazaar, Sears, La Femme Chic and film studios Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer and Paramount. Authored and edited by renowned design historian, Charlotte Fiell, this volume also contains an authoritative introduction by fashion historian, Emmanuelle Dirix, as well as the biographies of the key designers and fashion houses of the period.

The epicentre of classic chic and the home of haute couture, Paris is the capital of elegance. From the iconic luxury of Chanel, Dior and Saint Laurent to the effortless sophistication of the typical Parisienne, the city's look is replicated the world over. Little Book of Paris Style is the beautifully illustrated guide to the enduring looks, designers and icons that embody the city of light.

This book examines the ways in which luxury fashion brands use their heritage in their digital storytelling and marketing. With chapters from authors in China and Macau (PRC), India, Romania, Turkey, the United Kingdom, and the United States, covering British, Chinese, French, Japanese, Indian, Italian, and Turkish brands, this truly global collection is the first book of its kind devoted solely to the emerging study of digital heritage storytelling. This method of reaching potential consumers and perpetuating brand identity is a hugely important factor in the marketing of luxury brands and has yet to be studied comprehensively. The book will be of interest to scholars working in fashion studies, fashion history, design history, design studies, digital humanities, and fashion marketing.

Luxury, Fashion and the Early Modern Idea of Credit addresses how social and cultural ideas about credit and trust, in the context of fashion and trade, were affected by the growth and development of the bankruptcy institution. Luxury, fashion and social standing are intimately connected to consumption on credit. Drawing on data from the fashion trade, this fascinating edited volume shows how the concepts of credit, trust and bankruptcy changed towards the end of the early modern period (1500 1800) and in the beginning of the modern period. Focusing on Sweden, with comparative material from France and other European countries, this volume draws together emerging and established scholars from across the fields of economic history and fashion. This book is an essential read for scholars in economic history, financial history, social history and European history.

This book examines the critical issue of environmental pollutants produced by the textiles industry. Comprised of contributions from environmental scientists and materials and textiles scientists, this edited volume addresses the environmental impact of microplastics, with a particular focus on microfibres released by textiles into marine and freshwater environments. The chapters in Part I offer environmental perspectives focusing on the measurement of microplastics in the environment, their ingestion by small plankton and larger filter feeders, the effects of consuming microplastics, and the role of microplastics as a vector for transferring toxic contaminants in food webs. Written by environmental and material scientists, the chapters in Part II present potential solutions to the problem of microplastics released from textiles, discussing parameters of influence, water treatment, degradation in aquatic environments, textile end-of-life management, textile manufacturing and laundry, and possible policy measures. This is a much needed volume which brings together in one place environmental research with technical solutions in order to provide a cohesive and practical approach to mitigating and preventing environmental pollution from the textiles industry going forward. This book will be of great interest to students and scholars of environmental conservation and management, environmental pollution and environmental chemistry and toxicology, sustainability, as well as students and scholars of material and textiles science, textile engineering and sustainable manufacturing.

An insider's look at how the rise of "fast fashion" obstructs ethical shopping and fuels the abuse and neglect of garment workers "With years of expertise in the fashion industry, Alyssa's reporting is consistently deep and thoughtful, and her work on sustainability and ethics has changed how I view the clothes I wear." -Brittney McNamara, features director at Teen Vogue Ours is the era of fast fashion: a time of cheap and constantly changing styles for consumers of every stripe, with new clothing hitting the racks every season as social media-fueled tastes shift. Worn Out examines the underside of our historic clothing binge and the fashion industry's fall from grace. Former InStyle senior news editor and seasoned journalist Alyssa Hardy's riveting work explores the lives of the millions of garment workers-mostly women of color-who toil in the fashion industry around the world-from LA-based sweatshop employees who experience sexual abuse while stitching clothes for H&M, Fashion Nova, and Levi's to "homeworkers" in Indonesia who are unknowingly given carcinogenic materials to work with. Worn Out exposes the complicity of celebrities whose endorsements obscure the exploitation behind marquee brands and also includes interviews with designers such as Mara Hoffman, whose business models are based on ethical production standards. Like many of us, Hardy believes in the personal, political, and cultural place fashion has in our lives, from seed to sew to closet, and that it is still okay to indulge in its glitz and glamour. But the time has come, she argues, to force real change on an industry that prefers to keep its dark side behind the runway curtain. The perfect book for people who are passionate about clothing and style, Worn Out seeks to engage in a real conversation about who gets harmed by fast fashion-and offers meaningful solutions for change.

Beauty matters. Throughout the world, more and more people from all walks of life spend time and money to make themselves beautiful because beauty expresses identity and shapes status and success. Whether white or black, male or female, young or old, gay or straight, working- or middle-class, Western or non-Western, democratic or fascist, people everywhere have adopted a central maxim of the twentieth century: everyone can be beautiful, and everyone should become beautiful. This volume tracks the historical roots and meanings of modern beauty cultures in the twentieth century, drawing on examples from Europe, North America, the Near East, Asia, and Africa.