First Published in 1990 Unpacking the Fashion Industry spotlights a side of the industry the consumer never sees. What is the fashion clothing industry really like? What lies behind the glamour of the cat-walks and the glossy magazines? Annie Phizacklea focuses on the small firm sector of fashionwear production, based predominantly on ethnic entrepreneurship and cheap female labour and analyses the complex interaction of gender, class and racism in this sector of the industry. This book is a must read for scholars and researchers of sociology, gender studies and social anthropology.

Strategic Fashion Management: Concepts, Models and Strategies for Competitive Advantage is a highly accessible book providing a unique look into the strategic drivers of the dynamic and ever-growing fashion industry. Derived from the knowledge gap in quality strategic fashion management literature, this book blends theory with a variety of examples and uses 18 case studies to help bring to life contemporary topics faced by senior executives. The analysis is highly global in nature and aims to accelerate the strategic skills required to navigate the industry and contribute to a firm's growth. Using copious examples from across the world, this book provides in-depth discourse and progressive theoretical concepts and strategies which readers will be able to apply immediately to their studies or practices. The book is particularly suitable for final-year undergraduate and postgraduate students studying fashion management or marketing, as well as those on MBA and international business courses who wish to understand more about the fashion ecosystem. It is also designed to serve as an important reference for executives who are interested in conceptualising strategic issues that are pertinent to the industry.

The period since 1945 has been a transformative era for the fashion industry. Over the course of seventy years, the fashion world has moved from celebrating the craftsmanship of haute couture to revelling in ever-changing fast-fashion. This volume examines the transition from the old system to the new in a series of case studies grouped around three major themes. Part I focuses on Paris as a creative hub, aiming to understand how the birthplace of haute couture adapted to late-twentieth-century developments. Part II considers the retailer's role in shaping taste, responding to consumer expectations and disseminating fashion merchandise. Part III looks to alternative visions of the European fashion system that have appeared in unexpected places. The volume is highly interdisciplinary, covering design history, cultural anthropology, ethnography, management studies and the cultural history of business. -- .

Someone once said, "There is nothing new under the sun only new ways to do things." This could be the anthem of the agencies that produced the advertisements shown in this exciting new book. Perfume magazine ads not only tell the story of the brand, they are on the resumA (c)s of many of the world's most famous fine artists. The images shown here represent great perfume houses at the height of their marketing prowess: Guerlain, Schiaparelli, Caron, Lentheric, Hattie Carnegie, Lanvin, Houbigant, and more. To make their brands unforgettable they hired the most creative talents available, including Andy Warhol, Dugo, Vladimir Bobrtsy (aka bobri), and fabulous photographers like Irving Penn and Edward Jacobson. These talents artists thrived in the fast paced, very lucrative perfume industry. For the perfume bottle collector, advertising historian, and those active in graphic arts, this beautiful book has over 370 magnificent images, in full color, that are responsible for the sale of millions of dollars worth of fragrance through the years.

Energizing and bold, this major revision of Silent Selling: Best Practices and Effective Strategies in Visual Merchandising, 6th Edition, invites students to embrace a big picture view of the retail design industry. They will study global events and innovations with current multimedia resources in neuroscience and business, hand-picked by author Judy Bell. Her pioneering work with color palettes and her look-compare-innovate process will pave the way to sales-driving strategies. Students will be equipped to face the future with real world wisdom from industry leaders, and will be encouraged to create their own signature style. New to This Edition -The book opens with wisdom from philosophers like Aristotle and psychologists like Eric Fromm along with four Creative Wizards, active in the retail design industry today, offering guidance and inspiration. -Two new features: Neuroscience Pop-Ups! explore the science behind visual merchandising and Designers' Pet Peeves examine common pitfalls in display designs. -Twelve new or revised international Design Gallery showcases, Shoptalk features, and Case Studies, with award-winning design firms and top retailers. -Introduction to today's elements of the metaverse employed in visual merchandising through artificial intelligence, augmented reality, and robotics. -A system of Signage Hierarchy is introduced to provide a framework for strategically positioning signs in the retail store environment. -Over sixty new photographs present innovative concepts from around the globe. Silent Selling STUDIO -Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips -Review concepts with flashcards of terms and definitions Instructor Resources -Instructor's Guide with Test Bank provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text in the classroom -PowerPoint® presentations include images from the book and provide a framework for lecture and discussion

* A fully comprehensive guide to the entire supply chain management process as applied specifically to the fashion industry * Each chapter is complemented by an in-depth case study from a relevant global organization, alongside pedagogy to aid student comprehension, including quizzes, end-of-chapter activities, and role play scenarios. Online resources include chapter-by-chapter PowerPoint slides and a test bank. * Designed as a core textbook for Fashion Supply Chain and Operations Management modules at advanced undergraduate and postgraduate level.

The Global Beauty Industry is an interdisciplinary text that uses beauty to explore topics of gender, race, class, colorism, nation, bodies, multiculturalism, transnationalism, and intersectionality. Integrating materials from a wide range of cultural and geo-political contexts, it coalesces with initiatives to produce more internationally relevant curricula in fields such as sociology, as well as cultural, women's/gender, media, and globalization studies.

Covers everything students need for the S/NVQ core and options units so it is the only book needed for the Make-up pathway of S/NVQ Level 3 Beauty Therapy. Full-colour step-by-step procedures and 'work in progress' drawings clearly show the processes candidates need to go through to create a range of different looks. Contains mapping showing how the book relates to VTCT, ITEC and BTEC Make-up qualifications. Written by Julia Conway, an experienced college lecturer and freelance practitioner with an excellent reputation in make-up artistry.

"A cut above most workplace histories. Looking at the separate but sometimes overlapping development of European and African-American hairdressing from the early twentieth century to the present, Willett shows how race shaped different trajectories for black and white salons."
--"Lingua Franca"

"Offers an unusually comprehensive look at a significant twentieth-century industry and female preoccupation"
--"American Historical Review"

"Refreshing to read a history so firmly historicized and grounded in working-class and Afro-American history"
-- "Journal of Social History"

"Carefully nuanced and [a] compelling history."
-- Nan Enstad, "The Journal of American History"

Throughout the twentieth century, beauty shops have been places where women could enjoy the company of other women, exchange information, and share secrets. The female equivalent of barbershops, they have been institutions vital to community formation and social change.

But while the beauty shop created community, it also reflected the racial segregation that has so profoundly shaped American society. Links between style, race, and identity were so intertwined that for much of the beauty shop's history, black and white hairdressing industries were largely separate entities with separate concerns. While African American hair-care workers embraced the chance to be independent from white control, negotiated the meanings of hair straightening, and joined in larger political struggles that challenged Jim Crow, white female hairdressers were embroiled in struggles over self-definition and opposition to their industry's emphasis on male achievement. Yet despite their differences, black and whitehairdressers shared common stakes as battles were waged over issues of work, skill, and professionalism unique to women's service work.

Permanent Waves traces the development of the American beauty shop, from its largely separate racial origins, through white recognition of the "ethnic market," to the present day.

This unique text offers a holistic, insightful and timely exploration of sustainable practices across the fashion industry. The book takes the reader logically through each part of the authors’ new Responsible 9 Framework™, providing a clear perspective and examples for each component. The framework thoroughly explains the move away from a singular product commercial focus to a Conscious Item approach and Circular Services business mindset. An organisation’s people are at the heart of the new framework and have therefore been rebranded as Community. Next addressed is the Perceived Value of an item or brand, and how sustainable pricing initiatives actively influence consumer purchase. Insights into Accountable Systems are reviewed to examine the importance of responsible processes when considering and integrating a successful, sustainable supply chain into a fashion business. The section on Governance looks at the different global organisations available to fashion brands and customers alike, which support their transition into a responsible and sustainable future existence. The last two sections of the framework are labelled Storytelling Platforms and Honest Communication, where transparent and honest strategies are highlighted and discussed from a viewpoint of how modern brands are engaging and connecting to the new conscious consumer. For each of the nine aspects, contemporary case studies from global brands such as Stella McCartney, Zalando and Arc'teryx, alongside insights from current, leading experts within the fashion world, bring the theory to life. Showing how sustainability has been integrated throughout the entirety of the fashion business, this textbook is perfect for advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students Fashion Management, Fashion Brand Management and Fashion Marketing, as well as reflective leaders and practitioners within the industry.

In The Responsible Fashion Company, Rinaldi and Testa argue that the fashion industry is at a crossroads: the need for a global shift to a sustainable model has never been more urgent. Yet, they demonstrate that we are witnessing a revolution led by conscious consumers and enlightened companies, who are redefining the rules of the fashion market. The question is: when will the rest of the industry catch up? Rinaldi and Testa raise a fundamental but often neglected issue in the fashion sustainability debate: long-term equilibrium can only be achieved by integrating economic goals with environmental, social and ethical values. "The Responsible Fashion Company" provides a clear overview of the theory, challenges and opportunities of sustainability in the industry and demonstrates how fashion companies can achieve competitive advantage through sustainable innovation. The authors show how leading fashion companies are challenging traditional thinking and present inspiring examples from pioneers such as Gucci, Levi's, Timberland and Brunello Cucinelli, who create quality products without leaving a negative impact behind. Refreshing and timely, The Responsible Fashion Company is essential reading for the socially conscious consumer and anyone with a professional or personal interest in the fashion, design and luxury industries.

In The Responsible Fashion Company, Rinaldi and Testa argue that the fashion industry is at a crossroads: the need for a global shift to a sustainable model has never been more urgent. Yet, they demonstrate that we are witnessing a revolution led by conscious consumers and enlightened companies, who are redefining the rules of the fashion market. The question is: when will the rest of the industry catch up? Rinaldi and Testa raise a fundamental but often neglected issue in the fashion sustainability debate: long-term equilibrium can only be achieved by integrating economic goals with environmental, social and ethical values. "The Responsible Fashion Company" provides a clear overview of the theory, challenges and opportunities of sustainability in the industry and demonstrates how fashion companies can achieve competitive advantage through sustainable innovation. The authors show how leading fashion companies are challenging traditional thinking and present inspiring examples from pioneers such as Gucci, Levi's, Timberland and Brunello Cucinelli, who create quality products without leaving a negative impact behind. Refreshing and timely, The Responsible Fashion Company is essential reading for the socially conscious consumer and anyone with a professional or personal interest in the fashion, design and luxury industries.

The unauthorized biography of the world's most famous, seductive, and successful perfume.

With its rich golden hue, art deco–inspired bottle, and timeless, musky scent, Chanel No. 5 is the world's bestselling perfume. Reverently known among industry insiders as le monstre—the monster—it is arguably the most coveted consumer luxury product of the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. Yet how did this pioneering celebrity fragrance, introduced in the early 1920s, eventually take on a life of its own, becoming a cultural monument celebrated by millions of devoted consumers?

The Secret of Chanel No. 5 is Tilar J. Mazzeo's far-ranging and fascinating search beyond the stuff of legend to uncover the full story of No. 5's creation, iconic status, and extraordinary success. Mazzeo goes back through time and deep into the life of Coco Chanel, the brilliant, controversial, and steel-willed businesswoman at the heart of the fragrance. She takes readers to the rose plantations and celebrated jasmine fields where the perfume begins and then to the laboratories and boardrooms where scent and sex are forever intertwined. And she travels to the heart of the Chanel empire: 31 Rue Cambon, Coco Chanel's flagship boutique, where six decades ago American GIs stormed the counters to possess the magical elixir that captured the luxury and romance of Paris for their girls back home.

A blend of evocative history and thoughtful research, here is a glittering account of where art and sensuality mingle with dazzling entrepreneurship and desire: Chanel No. 5.

To work with the materials of tomorrow, design students across visual arts disciplines need to understand the cutting edge of today. Whether you're modelling in interiors, designing in fashion or constructing for interiors, in your work or as part of a final project, 3D Printing design is an encouraging guide to additive manufacturing within design disciplines. Francis Bitonti gives an insider's view from his design studio on how 3D printing is already shaking up the industry, and where it's likely to go next. Complete with interviews from designers, business owners and 3D-print experts throughout, Bitonti considers whether 3D body scans mean couture for all, how rapid prototyping can change your design method and if 3D printing materials can enhance medical design, amongst other areas of this emerging method of manufacture. This is inspirational reading for the designers of tomorrow.

This is the first book in English to deal comprehensively with German fashion from World War I through to the end of the Third Reich. It explores the failed attempt by the Nazi state to construct a female image that would mirror official gender policies, inculcate feelings of national pride, promote a German victory on the fashion runways of Europe and support a Nazi-controlled European fashion industry. Not only was fashion one of the countrys largest industries throughout the interwar period, but German women ranked among the most elegantly dressed in all of Europe. While exploding the cultural stereotype of the German woman as either a Brunhilde in uniform or a chubby farmers wife, the author reveals the often heated debates surrounding the issue of female image and clothing, as well as the ambiguous and contradictory relationship between official Nazi propaganda and the reality of womens daily lives during this crucial period in German history. Because Hitler never took a firm public stance on fashion, an investigation of fashion policy reveals ambivalent posturing, competing factions and conflicting laws in what was clearly not a monolithic National Socialist state. Drawing on previously neglected primary sources, Guenther unearths new material to detail the inner workings of a government-supported fashion institute and an organization established to help aryanize the German fashion world.How did the few with power maintain style and elegance? How did the majority experience the increased standardization of clothing characteristic of the Nazi years? How did women deal with the severe clothing restrictions brought about by Nazi policies and the exigencies of war? These questions and many others, including the role of anti-Semitism, aryanization and the hypocrisy of Nazi policies, are all thoroughly examined in this pathbreaking book.

Interest in contemporary cultural industries has grown in the past decade, as they take on a greater significance in our increasingly consumer-led society. Focusing on the world of fashion photography, this book presents an interdisciplinary approach in which this and other aesthetic markets, such as advertising, modelling, art, music and more, can be viewed. The main thrust of this groundbreaking book, is in developing a theory for these cultural markets, characterized by insecurity, and where status and aesthetic diversity generate order and price differentiation. In these industries, services and products are offered that are a mix of the aesthetic and the economic, and for fashion photographers such as those studied here, it is necessary to carefully position themselves in the market by developing unique photographic styles and separating themselves from competitors. Yet the markets in which these industries operate differ from the type of exchange markets depicted by neoclassical economists, and therefore cannot be considered using such modes of analysis. Instead Aspers conducts his study using empirical phenomenology, an original approach presented here for the first time, which can be easily used in other empirical studies. He draws on original empirical material; participant observation and interviews generated in New York and Stockholm; which bring a depth of analysis and a relevance to this book which academics, researchers and those with a vested interest in such industries will value. Written by one of the world's brightest young economic sociologists, this fascinating book (previously published in Sweden and enthusiastically received) is endorsed by recognized industry authorities. A noteworthy book, it provides a foothold in the burgeoning sub discipline of economic sociology, and a significant analysis of the economics of the fashion photography industry.

Newcomers to the fashion industry often base costings on the sum of a style's fabric, trims and labor-and to that they simply add their markup. However, every other activity of the business erodes that markup, and they find themselves with an unsustainable profit-or a loss. This guide will help you avoid these pitfalls to guarantee a sustainable profit. Apparel Costing details traditional and current costing methods for the fast-paced and e-commerce-focused fashion marketplace. You will learn industry-specific product/style costing that can be applied to garments produced both locally and globally. You'll also learn how to calculate line item percentages on indirect cost factors, such as factory sourcing, overhead, administration and product development. Key topics include: Target Market Pricing; Variable vs Fixed Costs; Direct vs Indirect Cost Factors; Cost-Based vs Value-Based Costing; Domestic vs International Production Costing; Effect of Sourcing on Costing; Sustainability in Costing; Fast Fashion vs. Slow Fashion

Learn how to develop, launch and build a successful fashion brand with this definitive textbook which explores the realities of the contemporary fashion industry. Fashion Brand Management is a complete guide to operating a fashion business in a multi-trillion revenue industry. Written by a leading innovator in the space, it describes how to gain competitive advantage, meaningfully embrace sustainability and purpose and successfully market to and engage consumers. Balancing theory with practical applications throughout, it also explores the key business models and financial management processes used in the industry and how fashion brands can build entrepreneurial advantage. Exploring the key challenges and opportunities for today's fashion businesses both large and small, Fashion Brand Management examines supply chain disruption, social selling and technological innovations including the metaverse, digital collections and blockchain. Featuring case studies from a range of innovative global brands including Ecoalf, MWHQ, Pala Eyewear and Unhidden, in-text features include learning objectives, key terms and activities. With supporting online resources consisting of lecture slides, self-test questions, group activities and worksheets, this is an essential resource for fashion students.

Fashion is all around us: we see it, we buy it, we read about it, but most people know little about fashion as a business. Veronica Manlow considers the broader signifi cance of fashion in society, the creative process of fashion design, and how fashion unfolds in an organizational context where design is conceived and executed. To get a true insider's perspective, she became an intern at fashion giant Tommy Hilfi ger. Th ere, she observed and recorded how a business's culture is built on a brand that is linked to the charisma and style of its leader.

Fashion firms are not just in the business of selling clothing along with a variety of sidelines. Th ese companies must also sell a larger concept around which people can identify and distinguish themselves from others. Manlow defi nes the four main tasks of a fashion fi rm as creation of an image, translation of that image into a product, presentation of the product, and selling the product. Each of these processes is interrelated and each requires the eff orts of a variety of specialists, who are often in distant locations. Manlow shows how the design and presentation of fashion is infl uenced by changes in society, both cultural and economic. Information about past sales and reception of items, as well as projective research informs design, manufacturing, sales, distribution, and marketing decisions.

Manlow offers a comprehensive view of the ways in which creative decisions are made, leading up to the creation of actual styles. She helps to defi ne the contribution fashion fi rms make in upholding, challenging, or redefi ning the social order. Readers will fi nd this a fascinating examination of an industry that is quite visible, but little understood.

This book examines the ways in which luxury fashion brands use their heritage in their digital storytelling and marketing. With chapters from authors in China and Macau (PRC), India, Romania, Turkey, the United Kingdom, and the United States, covering British, Chinese, French, Japanese, Indian, Italian, and Turkish brands, this truly global collection is the first book of its kind devoted solely to the emerging study of digital heritage storytelling. This method of reaching potential consumers and perpetuating brand identity is a hugely important factor in the marketing of luxury brands and has yet to be studied comprehensively. The book will be of interest to scholars working in fashion studies, fashion history, design history, design studies, digital humanities, and fashion marketing.

Amidst an increasingly conscious consumer market, the fashion industry now faces more external pressures than ever. Highlighting new advances that are responsive to societal concerns while still maintaining commerciality and innovation, Pioneering New Perspectives in the Fashion Industry: Disruption, Diversity and Sustainable Innovation examines critical new perspectives on the fashion marketplace that have been driven by both technological advances and widespread concerns over climate change. The editors bring together leading experts who employ empirical research and industry case studies to assess a wide range of issues and developments within the fashion industry, including: Climate activism Diversity, inclusivity and equality Online resale and e-commerce Collective action Fashion influencer brands Circularity Neurodiverse retail experiences Childrenswear Buyer-supplier relations Modest fashion Industry challenges in Sub-Saharan Africa Fashion and technology Vintage consumption Tailored for fashion student use and equally relevant for fashion professionals, Pioneering New Perspectives in the Fashion Industry: Disruption, Diversity and Sustainable Innovation presents a ground-breaking, comprehensive and cutting-edge analysis of the challenges and opportunities changing and reshaping the global fashion industry.

A Winning Formula for Selling to Women Around the World
Avon has come a long way since handing out its first perfume sample back in 1886. The company, long famous for ringing customer doorbells, is now the world's largest direct sales organization-with almost five million representatives in more than 140 countries.
AVON: Building the World's Premier Company for Women is the first book ever to show how this cosmetics juggernaut achieved such incredible success, while revealing secrets any business can use to effectively market products of all kinds-especially to women.
Through this entertaining journey, you'll not only learn the colorful Avon story, but also see how every company, big or small, can benefit from its unique approach to sales and product development.
"By providing women with an unlimited opportunity for career success, Avon harnessed the power of a committed sales force to win customers and grow the business. The company's success story is testimony to the importance of focusing on your core business while recognizing the changes taking place with your customers and the environment."
-Mary Sammons, President and CEO, Rite Aid Corporation
"The book is an excellent primer on how to successfully make alternative forms of distribution work."
-Allen Burke, Director of Merchandising, QVC, Inc.
"The author's incisive revelations . . . capture the extraordinary personalities and entrepreneurial strategies of one of America's most spellbinding success stories."
-Annette Green, President Emeritus, The Fragrance Foundation

Fashion buying and merchandising has changed dramatically over the last 20 years. Aspects such as the advent of new technologies and the changing nature of the industry into one that is faster paced than ever before, as well as the shift towards more ethical and sustainable practices have resulted in a dramatic change of the roles. As a result, contemporary fast fashion retailers do not follow the traditional buying cycle processes step by step, critical paths are wildly different, and there has been a huge increase in 'in-season buying' as a response to heightened consumer demand. This textbook is a comprehensive guide to 21st-century fashion buying and merchandising, considering fast fashion, sustainability, ethical issues, omnichannel retailing, and computer-aided design. It presents an up-to-date buying cycle that reflects key aspects of fashion buying and merchandising, as well as in-depth explanations of fashion product development, trend translation, and sourcing. It applies theoretical and strategic business models to buying and merchandising that have traditionally been used in marketing and management. This book is ideal for all fashion buying and merchandising students, specifically second- and final-year undergraduate as well as MA/MSc fashion students. It will also be useful to academics and practitioners who wish to gain a greater understanding of the industry today.

"A fascinating insight into the world of big business and how a little Cajun girl from New Orleans can achieve great success in this country."
--Dick Van Patten, actor (Eight Is Enough)

"Jenny Craig's story is a splendid example of what can be accomplished in our entrepreneurial society with dedication and hard work. Jenny's spirit, determination, and focus on providing service to her clients enabled her to create a leading weight-control company and help millions of people. Her journey is an American success story."
--Steven N. Blair, President and CEO, The Cooper Institute

"Jenny Craig is a pioneer in delivering nutritious, portion-controlled food, now recognized as one of the most powerful dietary weight-loss tools, in the context of a comprehensive program to change one's lifestyle. The story of her success in building a multinational weight-management program can serve as an inspiration to other women (and men) who have the capacity for the hard work needed to carry their creative ideas to fruition. This is a book well worth reading."
--Frank Greenway, MD, Medical Director and Professor Pennington Biomedical Research Center

"Reading the story of Jenny Craig's personal journey is a truly inspirational experience. Her persistence and adaptation to change in all aspects of her life, ranging from her personal relationships and professional activities to coping with health problems in later years, provide an exemplary model of self-actualization and compassion for others."
--G. Alan Marlatt, PhD, Director, Addictive Behaviors Research Center Professor of Psychology, University of Washington

"This new book on Fashion and its History is brilliant and fascinating. It is a must read' for all who are interested in style and clothes." Roy Miles, author of Priceless: a life in art "An impressive piece of research which Carolyn Beckingham has translated into a persuasive narrative. She marshals her material with skill and authority and presents her arguments in clear, well-written prose, avoiding academic jargon. The book will appeal not only to the specialist in this area of study but also to the general reader. Many will find added pleasure in returning to the classic literature from which she draws many of her examples." Alan Beecham, writer and journalist. "The definitive overview of fashion. An impressive and witty chronological history of our way of adorning ourselves. A must to enjoy and to treasure." Lucienne Phillips, fashion doyenne. This book addresses the evidence for the widespread belief that enjoyment of fashion is necessarily inconsistent with feminist values, from a feminist (as opposed to a post-feminist) point of view. It begins by establishing that many feminists in fact hold this belief and argues that disagreeing does not mean claiming that feminism was unnecessary or that it is now rendered redundant by changing social mores. The author describes the historical background as applied to both men's and women's clothing in various cultures. She then attempts to rebut the main anti-fashion arguments by exploring the issues of personal freedom and political correctness, the claims that fashion makes women sex objects for men, and the charge that the subject is too trivial to merit serious discussion, by examining the alleged symbolism of particular fashions and meanings attached to the concepts of "nature" and "creativity". Allegations of links between fashion and pornography are explored, and the disagreements between feminists on this topic set out. Finally, the issue of dressing for special occasions and whether this practice has a place in the modern world is addressed with candour. Is Fashion a Woman's Right? re-establishes the relationship between fashion and feminist values.