When Edward Enninful became first Black editor-in-chief of British Vogue, few at the heights of the elitist world of fashion wanted to confront how it failed to represent the world we live in. But Edward, a champion of inclusion throughout his life, rapidly changed that.

From a childhood in Ghana amid riotous colour and strong Black women, to being discovered by a fashion editor on the London Underground at the age of sixteen, to taking the helm of Britain's most influential fashion publication, A Visible Man traces an astonishing journey into one of the world's most exclusive industries. Taking us into the heady, wild and vibrant fashion scene of 1980s London and beyond, Edward details how as a Black, gay, working-class refugee, he found in fashion not only a home, but the freedom to share with people the world as he saw it – and to tell the story of the times we're in.

Now, whether it's putting first responders, octogenarians or civil rights activists on the cover of Vogue, or championing designers and photographers of colour, Edward Enninful has cemented his status as one of the world's most important change-makers. And he's just getting started.

Written with style, grace and heart, this is the story of a visionary who has changed how we understand beauty.

From sweatshops to fur farming, from polluting chemicals to painful garments, the fashion industry is associated with activities which have had devastating effects on workers, consumers, and the natural world. This ground-breaking volume provides a framework for examining the ethical, social, and environmental dangers that arise as fashion products are designed, manufactured, distributed, and sold within retail outlets, before being consumed and disposed of. Encompassing the cultural, psychological, and physiological aspects of fashion, it offers a comprehensive exploration of the hazards of a global industry. Drawing together an international team of leading textile and apparel experts, The Dangers of Fashion presents original perspectives on a wide range of topics from piracy and counterfeiting to human trafficking; from the effects of globalization on local industry to the peer pressure that governs contemporary ideals of beauty. Rooted in research into industry and consumer practices, it discusses innovative solutions-both potential and existing-to fashion's dangers and moral dilemmas from the viewpoint of individuals, companies, societies, and the global community.

Stylists have become increasingly influential in shaping fashion imagery. They have moved from the backstage, as unrecognised players, to the frontstage of fashion, becoming celebrated for their creative work as image makers for magazines, advertising and fashion designers. Yet little is known about the profession, its diverse incarnations and its aesthetic economy. Featuring contributions from leading experts and stylists, this collection is the first to explore the history, meaning and practice of fashion styling through interviews and historic and present-day case studies. Featuring in-depth contributions from prominent fashion scholars, chapters span historical periods, cultural contexts and theoretical frameworks, employing a range of methodologies in the international case studies upon which they’re based. Interspersed with interviews with innovative fashion stylists working today, and drawing on examples from advertising, the catwalk and magazines, this book explores the challenges faced by stylists in a fashion system increasingly shaped by commercial pressures and by growing numbers of collections and seasons. Fashion Stylists is an invaluable resource for students and professionals interested in image-making, the representation of style and fashion, entrepreneurship and the history of fashion professionals.

Sociologist Ashley Mears takes us behind the brightly lit runways and glossy advertisements of the fashion industry in this insider's study of the world of modeling. Mears, who worked as a model in New York and London, draws on observations as well as extensive interviews with male and female models, agents, clients, photographers, stylists, and others, to explore the economics and politics - and the arbitrariness - behind the business of glamour. Exploring a largely hidden arena of cultural production, she shows how the right 'look' is discovered, developed, and packaged to become a prized commodity. She examines how models sell themselves, how agents promote them, and how clients decide to hire them. An original contribution to the sociology of work in the new cultural economy, "Pricing Beauty" offers rich, accessible analysis of the invisible ways in which gender, race, and class shape worth in the marketplace.

In 2005, British supermodel Kate Moss went to Glastonbury with her then-boyfriend, indie rocker Pete Doherty. Their unwashed appearance captured widespread attention, propelling the British indie music scene and its signature look-slender bodies clad in skinny jeans-to the center of popular fashion. Using this fashionable watershed as a launching point, Fashioning Indie narrates indie's evolution: from a 1980s British music subculture into a 21st-century international fashion phenomenon. It explores the lucrative transformation of indie style, first into high concept menswear and later into "festival fashion"-a womenswear phenomenon that remade what indie looked like and provided a launching point to reimagine who the ideal subject of indie could be. Fashioning Indie is essential reading for academic and popular audiences, offering an original account of what happens when a subculture is incorporated into the commercial fashion system. As the music and fashions of festivals face increasing scrutiny in debates about diversity and inclusion, and the transformations of indie style coincide with the global expansion of the second-hand retail sector, the book offers also essential insights into the broader culture of popular fashion in the 21st century and the values that inform it.

Fashion is all around us, and so too is fashion journalism. Discussions of fashion proliferate in an ever-increasing range of media, from newspapers and magazines to tweets and TV programs. Fashion Journalism: History, Theory and Practice is an accessible, comprehensive guide to writing about fashion in any form, whether in style blogging, magazine interviews, news reportage or art reviews. Exploring what sets fashion journalism apart from other forms of journalistic writing, the book features a wide range of global fashion case studies, from Carmel Snow's reporting on Dior's 'New Look' to 1970s responses to Yves Saint Laurent, and Diana Vreeland's role as a fashion editor. Through a series of engaging exercises, you will learn how to find inspiration, carry out successful research, structure your work logically, use a style appropriate to your readership, and to make the leap from descriptive writing to informed analysis and criticism. Engaging and clearly written, Fashion Journalism examines how recent technological developments are shaping and driving fashion journalism, and delves into the theory and practice of writing about fashion.

Walking around the commercial streets of New York, San Francisco, Milan, London, or Paris and looking at the succession of multinational chain stores' windows, you can easily forget what country you are in. However, if you hear the small talk among the employees, you hear very different stories. In New York, a 30-year-old woman is worried because she does not know if she will work enough hours to make a living the following week-whereas, in Milan, a mother of the same age knows she will work 20 hours a week but is concerned about whether her contract will be renewed at the end of the following month. Following three years of fieldwork, which included 100 in-depth interviews with front-line retail workers and unionists in New York City and Milan, Front-Line Workers in the Global Service Economy investigates both the lived experiences of salespersons in the "fast fashion" industry-a retail sector made of large chains of stores selling fashion garments at low prices-and the possibilities of collective action and structured forms of resistance to these global trends. In the face of economic globalization and vigorous managerial efforts to minimize labor costs and to standardize the retail experience, mass fashion workers' stories tell us how strong the pressure toward work devaluation in low-skilled service sectors can be, and how devastating its effects are on the workers themselves.

An inspirational yet practical guide to clothes, shopping more effectively and discovering and developing a strong sense of personal style. With modern, minimal page design and four-colour photography throughout, this pragmatic and practical book should be required reading for anyone familiar with staring at a closet full of clothes and still feeling like they don't have anything to wear. 'This chic, thoughtful book is full of genius methods for taking control of your look, your habits, your budget, and your wardrobe.' -- Alison Freer, author of How to Get Dressed 'A smart, straightforward manual that encourages readers to discover what they like and to develop a wardrobe that makes getting dressed easier.' -- Erin Boyle, author of Simple Matters 'I loved this book. I've been trying for years to put together a capsule wardrobe...' -- ***** Reader review 'If you want a well organised wardrobe then this is your book!' -- ***** Reader review 'A wonderful, engaging and practical guide' -- ***** Reader review 'The best style book ever' -- ***** Reader review 'Legitimately changed my life (and bank balance) !!!' -- ***** Reader review *********************************************************************************************************** Get the wardrobe you've always wanted, filled with only those pieces that you love to put on and that make you look and feel amazing. Berlin-based style blogger Anuschka Rees will change your attitude and approach to clothes and shopping with her new minimal method. She rejects the cliched fashion rules and instead encourages you to look in your wardrobe and at your life, as well as in the mirror. Using interactive prompts, infographic-style questionnaires and helpful check lists, all beautifully illustrated with photography and mood boards, create your own individual style guidelines that truly speak to you. A must-have guide that will help you shop in a more cost-effective and efficient way and discover and develop a strong sense of personal style.

"This is a primer for future fashion game changers." Kelly Cobb, University of Delaware, US Learn how to be sustainable and work for social change in the fashion industry. The book explains concepts, applications, legal and regulatory issues, and tools available to professionals throughout the fashion industry. Call to Action Activities, case studies, Conversations with industry professionals, and Company Highlights in every chapter will help you practice sustainability in your career. Some of the featured companies include ABL Denim, Eileen Fisher, Patagonia, Alabama Chanin, Everlane, thredUP, Krochet Kids intl, Loomstate, and Conscious Step. Industry professionals interviewed include Treana Peake, Caryn Franklin, Annie Gullingsrud, Katherine Soucie, and Elizabeth Shorrock, among others. Online Studio features include: - Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips - Review concepts with flashcards of terms and definitions

The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers: Juniors, Misses, and Women offers an in-depth look into the techniques and theories of pattern drafting for women's garments. Covering a wide variety of styles, textiles, and sizes, this book is useful for a wide range of pattern courses from introductory to advanced. It provides a sound introduction to the concepts and the processes of patternmaking, as well as a more advanced analysis of style and design. The book offers helpful techniques on taking measurements and adjusting the fit of garments for all body sizes, patterns, and types of fabrics.

"This is the most comprehensive teaching tool for learning and mastering draping techniques. The illustrations and the text for each drape are clear and explicit." Laura K. Kidd, Southern Illinois University, USA Learn to drape fabric on a dress form to create your own patterns. The step-by-step instructions are organized from basic to advanced projects using both imperial and metric measurements, so you don't have to convert measurements. The book includes a wide variety of fashion styles, from bodices to bias-cut gowns. Intermediate and advanced design variations include an off-shoulder sleeve design and a peplum design. More than 1,000 two-color line drawings show you each draping step. - Checklists to evaluate and analyze designs - Cross-referencing of techniques across chapters - Online STUDIO includes video tutorials explaining key draping skills and techniques - Lay-flat binding makes the book easy to use while draping garments

Truly unique, Closet offers a visual celebration as exceptional as its author. As Nataniel looks back on his 30-year career, he takes us into his closet, showing his first self-made costumes, introducing his three designers and sharing close-up details of the most astounding costumes from his shows. Also with photo shoots, magazine and CD covers, Closet is a visual feast, a collector's item and an ode to an exceptional South African artist.

Closet is ’n unieke, luukse visuele viering en versamelstuk. Nataniël kyk oor sy roemryke loopbaan van 30 jaar terug wanneer hy sy aanhangers ’n kykie in sy klerekas gee. Hy wys van sy eerste kostuums, stel sy drie kostuumontwerpers voor, en vertoon sy heel beste kostuums van naderby. Closet, wat ook fotosessies, CD-omslae en katalogusse insluit, is ’n fees vir die oog en ’n ode aan ’n besondere kunstenaar.

Winner, 2016 Best First Book Prize from the Immigration and Ethnic History Society Finalist, 2016 Sami Rohr Prize for Jewish Literature Winner, 2015 Book Prize from the Southern Jewish Historical Society Finalist, 2015 Jordan Schnitzer Book Award from the Association for Jewish Studies Winner, 2014 National Jewish Book Award in American Jewish Studies from the Jewish Book Council The majority of Jewish immigrants who made their way to the United States between 1820 and 1924 arrived nearly penniless; yet today their descendants stand out as exceptionally successful. How can we explain their dramatic economic ascent? Have Jews been successful because of cultural factors distinct to them as a group, or because of the particular circumstances that they encountered in America? The Rag Race argues that the Jews who flocked to the United States during the age of mass migration were aided appreciably by their association with a particular corner of the American economy: the rag trade. From humble beginnings, Jews rode the coattails of the clothing trade from the margins of economic life to a position of unusual promise and prominence, shaping both their societal status and the clothing industry as a whole. Comparing the history of Jewish participation within the clothing trade in the United States with that of Jews in the same business in England, The Rag Race demonstrates that differences within the garment industry on either side of the Atlantic contributed to a very real divergence in social and economic outcomes for Jews in each setting.

Vidal Sassoon's extraordinary life has taken him from an impoverished East End childhood to global fame. The father of modern hairdressing, his slick sharp cutting took the fashion world by storm and reinvented the hairdressers' art. Before Vidal Sassoon, a trip to the hairdressers meant a shampoo and set or a stiffly lacquered up-do that would last a week - or more. After Vidal Sassoon, hair was sleek, smooth and very, very stylish. Along with his lifelong friend and partner in style, Mary Quant, who he first met in 1957 and who to this day sports a Sassoon-style geometric bob, he styled the 1960s. As memorable as the mini - be it car or skirt - he is one of the few people who can genuinely be described as iconic. His memoirs are as rich in anecdote as one might hope and full of surprising and often moving stories of his early life - his time at the Spanish & Portuguese Jewish Orphanage in Maida Vale, fighting Fascists in London's East End and fighting in the army of the fledgling state of Israel in the late Forties. And then there's the extraordinary career, during which he cut the hair of everyone who was anyone, launched salons all over the world, founded the hairdressing school that still bears his name and became a global brand, with Vidal Sassoon products on all our bathroom shelves.

On November 28, 1973, the world's social elite gathered at the Palace of Versailles for an international fashion show. By the time the curtain came down on the evening's spectacle, history had been made and the industry had been forever transformed. This is that story. At the Battle of Versailles, five Americans - Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Anne Klein, Halston, and Stephen Burrows - faced off against the five French designers considered the best in the world - Yves Saint Laurent, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, and Marc Bohan of Christian Dior. Against all odds, the American energy and the domination by their fearless models (ten of whom, in a ground-breaking move, were African-American) sent the audience reeling. By the end of the evening, the Americans had transformed their place on the world stage and sowed the seeds for changing the way race, gender, sexuality, and economics would be treated in fashion for decades to come. The in-fighting between ego-inflated designers, the unforeseen obstacles instaging the show on a shoestring, the triumphant win, the vastly different fates of the designers post-show. Robin Givhan's meticulous research brings the event alive and places it firmly in the history of fashion, offering an intimate examination of a single moment that teaches us how the culture of fashion as we now know it came to be.

Herman Mashaba rose from humble beginnings to become one of South Africa's wealthiest and best-known entrepreneurs. His remarkable story begins in a small village in Gauteng, where we meet the cocky youngster who refused to settle for a future that offered nothing. Forced to drop out of university, the determined young man fought to establish the first black-owned haircare company in South Africa. Mashaba struggled every day of his life – against apartheid, with its demeaning laws, and against his competitors to grab market share for his business. In the process, Mashaba learnt lessons that few business schools teach today. This is a story of survival, and of determination in adversity. It is also a love story between Herman and Connie, his wife of 30 years, who embarked on this journey together. Mashaba shows the importance of having a vision, daring to dream it, and then making it happen. This inspiring book will leave you with the question: "If he did it, why can't I?"

Globalization and economic restructuring have decimated formal jobs in developing countries, pushing many women into informal employment such as direct selling of cosmetics, perfume, and other personal care products as a way to "make up the difference" between household income and expenses. In Ecuador, with its persistent economic crisis and few opportunities for financially and personally rewarding work, women increasingly choose direct selling as a way to earn income by activating their social networks. While few women earn the cars and trips that are iconic prizes in the direct selling organization, many use direct selling as part of a set of household survival strategies. In this first in-depth study of a cosmetics direct selling organization in Latin America, Erynn Masi de Casanova explores women's identities as workers, including their juggling of paid work and domestic responsibilities, their ideas about professional appearance, and their strategies for collecting money from customers. Focusing on women who work for the country's leading direct selling organization, she offers fascinating portraits of the everyday lives of women selling personal care products in Ecuador's largest city, Guayaquil. Addressing gender relations (including a look at men's direct and indirect involvement), the importance of image, and the social and economic context of direct selling, Casanova challenges assumptions that this kind of flexible employment resolves women's work/home conflicts and offers an important new perspective on women's work in developing countries.

This text is designed to introduce undergraduate students to the central concepts of fashion trend analysis and forecasting. Exploring the roles of both consumers and industry personnel as product developers, gatekeepers, and promoters of fashion trends, the book demonstrates how and why forecasting is vital to successful product and brand development. Fashion Trends: Analysis and Forecasting covers a wide range of key topics, such as the impact of fashion consumption on the environment, economic development, and socio-cultural change, as well as the impact of social responsibility and the digital consumer on current fashion trends. Designed to aid teaching and learning, each chapter includes key words, summaries, engaging case studies, discussion questions, and suggested class activities. Using this book as a guide, students will develop an understanding of the process, methods, and influence of trend analysis and forecasting for the fashion business, and will be encouraged to think through the core issues creatively. An essential text for students of fashion and design.

With the media's increasing weight on public opinion, a positive public image has become an integral part of management and a vital factor in business success-especially in the fashion industry. This textbook will deliver a practical approach to the world of public relations and image management, with in-depth case studies featuring prominent apparel and textile companies. Concentrating on the pragmatic aspects of public relations and the fundamentals of fashion public relations, principles and concepts are placed in context of what the student will actually do in the business world. Students will be equipped with the real-world approaches and techniques for a successful career in fashion public relations. Features: -- Case studies featuring elements of a public relations campaign for well-known companies -- Interviews with successful public relations managers discussing how s/he applied the principles of the chapter discussed and the results -- Real-life simulations of problems which managers interviewed for the case studies have encountered, and approaches on how they solved them -- In-class exercises, where students can pair up and practice the public relations principles discussed in the chapter -- Instructor's Guide provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text in the classroom -- PowerPoint(r) Presentation provides outlines and ideas for lectures; compatible with PC and Mac platforms

Haute couture, haute drama, hautely practical info . . . with a "Project Runway" favorite From inspiration to execution, from first sketches to final styling, from developing a portfolio to defining a look, " Fashion Inside Out" combines practical information on fashion design with an intimate look at the fashion scene today. "Project Runway" finalist Daniel Vosovic reveals exactly how designers make dreams become fashion reality. Where do fashion ideas come from? How does a designer capture a client's personality? What is it really like to compete--and triumph--in the high-powered world of haute couture? Vosovic tells all, and so do dozens of other industry professionals, including prominent magazine editors, photographers, stylists, and fashionistas from around the globe. A detailed overview of the design process, plus insightful advice on connecting with the right people, promoting and selling, and much, much more, make this the ideal one-volume resource for everyone who loves design, watches television fashion-reality shows, or longs for a behind-the-scenes look at an exciting and exotic business. Don't just dream about the world of fashion. Be a part of it . . . with the help of "Fashion Inside Out."

Despite all the medical and media attention focused on the rate of overweight and obesity in the African American population, African American images and body types are greatly influencing changes in the fashion, fitness, advertising, television and movie industries. This is because overweight, like beauty, can be in the eye of the beholder. Most research studies investigating attitudes about body image and body type among African Americans have shown they are more satisfied with their bodies than are their white counterparts and that there appears to be a wider range of acceptable body shapes and weights, and a more flexible standard of attractiveness, among black Americans as compared to whites. That fact is not being lost on leaders of industries that might profit from understanding this wider range of beauty, as well as playing to it. In this book, medical anthropologist Eric Bailey introduces and explains the self-acceptance and body image satisfaction of African Americans, and traces how that has spurred changes in industry. His book fills the void of scientific evidence to enhance the understanding of African Americans' perceptions related to body image and beauty-and is the first to document these issues from the perspective of an African American male. Despite all the medical and media attention focused on the rate of overweight and obesity in the African American population, African American images and body types are greatly influencing changes in the fashion, fitness, advertising, television, and movie industries. This is because overweight, like beauty, can be in the eye of the beholder. Most research studies investigating attitudes about body image and body type among African Americans have shown they are more satisfied with their bodies than are their white counterparts. Most black women, for example, are of course concerned with how they look, but do not judge themselves in terms of their weight and do not believe they are valued mostly on the basis of their bodies. Black teen girls most often say being thick and curvaceous with large hips and ample thighs is seen as the most desirable body shape. Thus, there appears to be a wider range of acceptable body shapes and weights, and a more flexible standard of attractiveness, among black Americans as compared to whites. That fact is not lost on leaders of industries that might profit from understanding this wider range of beauty, as well as playing to it. Voluptuous supermodel Tyra Banks is just one African American who's broken the mold in that industry. The effects have been seen right down to department and local clothes stores, where lines of larger and plus-size fashions are expanding, becoming more colorful and more ornate. In the fitness industry, health gurus Madonna Grimes and Billy Blanks have been revolutionizing how people get fit and how fitness needs to be redeveloped for the African American population. Advertising has taken a similar turn, not the least manifestation of which were the major campaigns Dove and Nike ran in 2005 with plus-sized actresses (who continue to appear in promotions for both companies). In movies and on television shows, the African American beautiful body image has followed suit. In this book, medical anthropologist Eric Bailey introduces and explains the self-acceptance and body image satisfaction of African Americans, and traces how that has spurred changes in industry. His book fills the void of scientific evidence to enhance the understanding of African Americans' perceptions related to body image and beauty-and is the first to document these issues from the perspective of an African American male.