This book is available open access through the Bloomsbury Open Access programme and is available on www.bloomsburycollections.com. It is funded by Knowledge Unlatched. The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world. With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print and material culture. Through analysis of archives, visual chronicles, press, and garments, and covering an impressive range of topics, from the feathered showgirl in Paris to the evolution of pilots' uniforms, these exciting essays show how fashion, even temporarily, encouraged the articulation of an identity, a society, and a nation. Fashion, Society, and the First World War provides an extensive overview by leading fashion historians on an industry in the midst of major transformation and is both an invaluable guide and starting point for all researchers, curators, and students interested in fashion history and the cultural history of the period.

This book provides a critical overview of technologies that are used within the fashion industry and supply chain, with a special emphasis on how they engender sustainability and the circular economy. The chapters present contemporary case studies alongside new research on technologies such as 3D printing, 3D scanning and recycling technology to assess the effect they will have on the future of fashion and its global supply chain.

Every year, thousands of young men and women descend on America's largest cities to make it big in the world of modeling. Unfortunately, most of them end up disappointed because they lack the knowledge they need to work in this exciting industry.

A few do make it, though, and you can be one of those who do. In The Wilhelmina Guide to Modeling, Natasha Esch reveals all her secrets to give you the edge you need.

In this informative and illustrated manual, you'll learn about:
• How to get started and find the right agency.

• The modeling opportunities in domestic and foreign markets, including new opportunities in the plus-size, male, and ethnic segments.

• The people who make it happen, including interviews with models, photographers, and stylists.

• And much, much more.

Rethinking Fashion Globalization is a timely call to rewrite the fashion system and push back against Eurocentric dominance within fashion histories by presenting new models, approaches and understandings of fashion from critical thinkers at the forefront of decolonial fashion discourse. This edited collection draws together original, diverse, and richly reflective critiques of the fashion system from both established and emerging fashion scholars, researchers and creative practitioners. Chapters straddle current calls for decolonization and inclusion, as well as reflections on de-westernization, post-colonialism, sustainability, transnationalism, national identities, social activism, global fashion narratives, diversity, and more. The volume is divided into three key themes, 'Disruptions in Time and Space', 'Nationalism and Transnationalism' and 'Global Design Practices'. These themes re-map fashion's origins, practices and futures, to present alternatives for reclaiming and rethinking fashion globalization in the 21st century.

Social Media for Fashion Marketing uses cutting edge case studies and detailed interviews to show how the business of fashion is changing in the digital landscape. Bendoni (@BendoniStyle) also considers the psychological impact of being a hyper-connected consumer and the generational gaps in social media communication. Using academic research, alongside her 25 years of fashion marketing experience, Bendoni offers a clear picture of the changing narrative of storytelling, social confirmation, digital nesting and how to use data to shape a brand's online presence. With practical and critical thinking activities to hone your skills into professional practice, this is the ultimate guide to social marketing, promotion, SEO, branding and communication. Featured topics - Rules of Digital Storytelling - Rethinking Gamification - Strategic Digital Marketing - The Role of Citizen Journalists - The Social Media Looking Glass - World of Influencer Marketing - Visual Consumption Economy - Global Perspective of Social Media

"‘Clothing that is not purchased or worn is not fashion’" (to paraphrase Armani)

Knowledge of marketing is essential to help ensure success and reduce the risk of failure in fashion. For the designer starting up in business, this book offers a guide to the major decisions that will enable you to fulfil your creative potential and be a financial success: What are the major trends we should be monitoring?; How should we set our prices?; What is the most effective way to get our message across about the new product range?; Which colour-wash will be the most popular with buyers?

Marketing is now a firmly established element of most fashion and clothing courses. "Fashion Marketing" is written to meet students’ requirements and has many features making it essential reading for anyone involved in the fashion and clothing business:

· deals with contemporary issues in fashion marketing

· up-to-date examples of global good practice

· exclusively about fashion marketing

· a unique contribution on range planning with a practical blend of sound design sense and commercial realism

· a balance of theory and practice, with examples to illustrate key concepts

· clear worked numerical examples to ensure that the ideas are easily understood and retained

· over 50 diagrams

· a glossary of the main fashion marketing terms and a guide to further reading

· a systematic approach to fashion marketing, not hyperbole or speculation.

The new edition has been updated throughout with new material on different promotional media, visual marketing and international marketing research; and new coverage of internal marketing, supply chain management, international marketing communications as well as the role of the internet.

"See www.blackwellpublishing.com/easey for supporting pack for tutors, including PowerPoint slides for each chapter plus ideas and exercises for seminars. "

The term 'tailored' has changed as methods of manufacture and the retailing of clothes have evolved. This book demonstrates the wide range of cutting methods used to produce garments which are described as 'tailored' jackets. Although the main focus is on modern methods of producing clothing, a rich and complex cutting tradition is acknowledged and used. It is hoped that the modern garment designer will be inspired to rediscover methods that retain their validity today.

The different approaches to 'tailored' cutting are described under three headings: bespoke cutting, engineered cutting and style cutting. The rich heritage of the latter came from the tremendous creativity that was unleashed by women's emancipation at the beginning of the twentieth century and the merging of tailored styles with fashionable clothing. The section on style cutting has therefore derived some of the cutting techniques from that period, thus demonstrating how they can be applied to current methods of production.

The Fundamentals of Digital Fashion Marketing introduces and explores contemporary digital marketing practices within the fashion industry. Clare Harris clearly explains key digital marketing strategies and examines and illustrates their role in fashion through exciting and memorable industry examples. Marketing practices covered include online marketing, social media, video, mobile technologies, in-store technologies, augmented reality and digital spaces. The text features interviews and case studies from some of fashion's biggest brands and most cutting-edge marketing companies, while also promoting active learning through engaging activities and exercises. This all combines to create a book that will inform, stimulate and inspire the next generation of creative marketers.

Dana Thomas's Deluxe: How Luxury Lost its Lustre goes deep inside the workings of today's world of profit margins and market share to discover the real meaning of 'luxury'. Fashion may be fabulous, but what's the true price of luxury? From the importance of fashion owners, to red carpet stars and the seasonal 'must-have' handbags, Dana Thomas shows how far illustrious houses have moved from their roots. Thomas witnesses how these 'luxury' handbags are no longer one in a million, discovers why luxury brand clothing doesn't last as long, and finds out just who is making your perfume. From terrifying raids on the Chinese sweat shops to the daunting chic of Paris workshops, from the handcrafting and economics of early-twentieth century designers to the violent truth behind the 'harmless' fakes, Deluxe goes deep into the world of extravagance, and asks: where can true luxury go now? 'Definitive' Daily Telegraph 'Thomas's message is relevant to shoppers of every stripe' The New York Times 'Thomas explores what luxury meant before the word was both inflated and devalued' Guardian 'Great aversion therapy ... we suspect we're being fleeced, but we don't know with what cynical dedication' The Times Dana Thomas is now European Editor for Portfolio following twelve years as the cultural and fashion writer for Newsweek in Paris. She has written about style for the New York Times Magazine since 1994, and has contributed to various publications including the New Yorker, Harper's Bazaar, Vogue and the Financial Times.

Prior to the 1970s-1980s, fashion marketing focused heavily (and perhaps solely) on women's fashions. Today, fashion marketing influences all products and the manner of style consumers use products. How products are marketed, when products are marketed, the evolution of products into different sizes, shapes, color, and uses are all influenced by fashion marketers. Fashion marketing is taken to different levels from branding a person (e.g., Ralph Lauren, the person), line of products (e.g., Lexus luxury cars) to a single product (e.g., Coach handbag). This much needed text will provide information regarding the introduction, making and machine the industry calls Fashion Marketing. Features: -- Addresses how branding and imaging of fashion, once used for a product or product line, is now used for the company spokesperson, owner, or representative -- Looks at the industry through a global perspective -- Case Studies including company logo and discussion of the company's impact on fashion marketing -- Online links throughout the chapter for students and instructors to investigate fashion marketing around the U.S. and world -- End of chapter elements include: summary, list of key terms, 3-4 assignments, discussion questions, study questions, and references -- Appendix includes glossary, bibliography and references (both for citations within text and for further study), index for subject and company -- Instructor's Guide includes exams with answers -- PowerPoint(r) Presentation provides outlines and ideas for lectures; compatible with PC and Mac platforms

How did powder and paint, once scorned as immoral, become indispensable to millions of respectable women? How did a "kitchen physic," as homemade cosmetics were once called, become a multibillion-dollar industry? And how did men finally take over that rarest of institutions, a woman's business?In "Hope in a Jar," historian Kathy Peiss gives us the first full-scale social history of America's beauty culture, from the buttermilk and rice powder recommended by Victorian recipe books to the mass-produced products of our contemporary consumer age. She shows how women, far from being pawns and victims, used makeup to declare their freedom, identity, and sexual allure as they flocked to enter public life. And she highlights the leading role of white and black women--Helena Rubenstein and Annie Turnbo Malone, Elizabeth Arden and Madame C. J. Walker--in shaping a unique industry that relied less on advertising than on women's customs of visiting and conversation. Replete with the voices and experiences of ordinary women, "Hope in a Jar" is a richly textured account of the ways women created the cosmetics industry and cosmetics created the modern woman.

Lead in lipstick? 1,4 dioxane in baby soap? Coal tar in shampoo? How is this possible? Simple. The $35 billion cosmetics industry is so powerful they've kept themselves unregulated for decades. Not Just a Pretty Face chronicles the quest that led a group of health and environmental activists to the world's largest cosmetics companies to ask some tough questions: * Why do companies market themselves as pink ribbon leaders in the fight against breast cancer, yet use hormone-disrupting and carcinogenic chemicals that may contribute to that very disease?* Why do products used by men and women of childbearing age contain chemicals linked to birth defects and infertility? As doors slammed in their faces and the beauty myth peeled away, the industry's toxic secrets began to emerge. This scathing investigation peels away less-than-lovely layers to expose an industry in dire need of an extreme makeover. The good news is that while the major multinational companies fight for their right to use hazardous chemicals, entrepreneurs are developing safer non-toxic technologies and building businesses on the values of health, justice and personal empowerment.

How are aesthetics and ethics related to the practical realities of the global fashion industry? Both have played an important role in academic fashion studies to this point, but they are most often discussed in the context of abstract phenomena such as modernity and capitalism, or identity issues such as sexuality, class and gender. The essays in this volume strive instead to show how the realities of the global fashion industry have important and pertinent aesthetic and ethical consequences. This collection provides critical and philosophical analysis of the interplay of aesthetics and ethics within the global fashion industry. Characterized by an increasingly fast spinning production, the industry is highly exploitative in terms of environment and labor force: underpaid textile workers, retailers working under brutal competition from the mass-merchandise discounters, young designers, seamstresses and curators often working for free, and a vast body of aspiring models. In addition, fashion-related aesthetic ideals are becoming more influential than ever in directing consumers in their social and personal identification processes and bodily practices with sometimes fatal consequences. Covering a wide range of subjects such as fashion's highly problematic production and consumption practices, the possibility of producing and consuming fashion ethically, fashion's intimate connection with nature and technology, Fashion Aesthetics and Ethics highlights the powerful aesthetical presence of fashion in relation to its ethical premises and often problematic outcomes.

Newcomers to the fashion industry often base costings on the sum of a style's fabric, trims and labor-and to that they simply add their markup. However, every other activity of the business erodes that markup, and they find themselves with an unsustainable profit-or a loss. This guide will help you avoid these pitfalls to guarantee a sustainable profit. Apparel Costing details traditional and current costing methods for the fast-paced and e-commerce-focused fashion marketplace. You will learn industry-specific product/style costing that can be applied to garments produced both locally and globally. You'll also learn how to calculate line item percentages on indirect cost factors, such as factory sourcing, overhead, administration and product development. Key topics include: Target Market Pricing; Variable vs Fixed Costs; Direct vs Indirect Cost Factors; Cost-Based vs Value-Based Costing; Domestic vs International Production Costing; Effect of Sourcing on Costing; Sustainability in Costing; Fast Fashion vs. Slow Fashion

Costing for the Fashion Industry is a practical, easy-to-use guide to the manufacture, sourcing and risk management methods essential to make a new fashion business venture financially viable. Each chapter focuses on a theme, such as entrepreneurship, time constraints, global awareness and new markets and sourcing, alongside practical exercises and detailed industry case studies to put the theory into context. This second edition explores capital investment decisions, the changing nature of cost and the importance of global awareness and new markets, as well as expanded coverage of internationalization strategies for SMEs.

From sweatshops to fur farming, from polluting chemicals to painful garments, the fashion industry is associated with activities which have had devastating effects on workers, consumers, and the natural world. This ground-breaking volume provides a framework for examining the ethical, social, and environmental dangers that arise as fashion products are designed, manufactured, distributed, and sold within retail outlets, before being consumed and disposed of. Encompassing the cultural, psychological, and physiological aspects of fashion, it offers a comprehensive exploration of the hazards of a global industry. Drawing together an international team of leading textile and apparel experts, The Dangers of Fashion presents original perspectives on a wide range of topics from piracy and counterfeiting to human trafficking; from the effects of globalization on local industry to the peer pressure that governs contemporary ideals of beauty. Rooted in research into industry and consumer practices, it discusses innovative solutions—both potential and existing—to fashion’s dangers and moral dilemmas from the viewpoint of individuals, companies, societies, and the global community.

The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers: Menswear offers patternmaking techniques for a variety of garment styles and includes information on sizing, lining, and a variety of fabrics. Covering everything from casual to tailored designs, it can serve both as an introduction to the pattern-drafting skills necessary for menswear and as a more in-depth treatment of patternmaking techniques. The guide covers the patternmaking process for an array of menswear garments, as well as the accompanying theories and concepts.

Through ten detailed case studies on groundbreaking brands like Vivienne Westwood, Vera Wang, Levi's (R), and The Gap Inc., Fashion Brand Stories shows how fashion retailers and designers use storytelling to establish and maintain relationships with their customers. These entertaining case studies explore the evolution of each brand as a cultural entity with its own carefully crafted personality. Aided by interviews with industry professionals, you'll learn how brands start out, grow and encounter success or failure and how to apply those hard-won lessons to your own thoughts on branding. This beautifully illustrated third edition covers the changing role of social media, celebrity endorsements, quality over quantity, and more ethical sourcing, manufacturing, and consumption. Instructor's resources to accompany this edition are available at bloomsbury.pub/fashion-brand-stories-3e

Fashion Brand Merchandising introduces the concepts and practices that will help students build, develop, and work with fashion brands, Beginning with an overview of the branding concept and a description of those professionals and processes that develop the brand image and the actual products identified with that image, this text covers how branding and merchandising activities are interrelated and interdependent with respect to marketing fashion-related products. In whatever capacity, you work with fashion brands - marketer, merchandiser, retailer, or designer - this text includes information you will need to work meaningfully with fashion brands. Features -- Focus on Fashion Brands feature an article or case study relevant to the topics of the specific chapters -- Brand Managers Notebook - exercises designed to assist development of your career -- BRANDLAB provides an opportunity to create a fashion brand -- Instructor's Guide provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text -- Powerpoint presentation

Few phenomena embody the notion of time as well as fashion. Fast-moving and rooted in the 'now', it's constantly creating its own past through the process of rapid style change. Uniquely poised between the past and the future, fashion's relationship with time is unorthodox. Rather than considering time in the conventional sense, this anthology explores three alternative ways to think about fashion and time: the first identifies the seasonal nature of fashion as an industry, and shows how this has impacted on workers and wearers alike. The second looks at fashion design as a ceaseless process of adaptation, reconstruction and recombination of motifs, in which nostalgia and revivals play their part. The third construes fashion's 'imaginary', with its capacity for fantasy and myth-making, as a form of alternate history that asks 'what if?' Within this framework, key classic texts are juxtaposed with lesser known ones, in an interdisciplinary approach that includes philosophy, history, literature, media and fashion design, ranging from the 18th century to the present. It will be of interest to anyone wishing to understand one of the most complex yet inescapable aspects of fashion, its relationship to time, and will be a critical resource for undergraduate and postgraduate students in the humanities and all those interested in fashion in all its creative, commercial and cultural aspects.

How do fashion designers conceive of, develop and ultimately launch commercially and creatively successful collections? Developing a Fashion Collection walks you through the process, exploring research techniques, sources of inspiration, forecasting trends and designing for different markets. From couture to high street, knitwear to accessories and covering the implications of online shopping - there's advice on every aspect of creating your collection through 27 insightful interviews with international practitioners. Interviewees include John Mooney, Brand Creative Director at ASOS and Jane Palmer Williams, Head of Executive Development at LVMH. This 3rd edition also covers silhouette, fittings and final samples, sustainable practice, developing high street collections, fabric selection and finding inspiration through vintage designs.

For centuries, the fashion industry has struggled to reconcile style with sustainability. In Historical Perspectives on Sustainable Fashion, you will be transported back in time to discover the historical dimensions of today's sustainable fashion movement. An array of success stories and cautionary tales provide both inspiration and warnings for the eco-conscious designer, encouraging an innovative approach that builds on predecessors' discoveries to move the practice of fashion forward. The 1st edition, Sustainable Fashion: Past, Present and Future, emerged from the Museum at FIT's groundbreaking exhibition 'Eco-Fashion: Going Green'. This revised edition broadens perspectives even further, incorporating eye-opening examples of designers, brands and activists working for change across the world today. Likewise, a new chapter examines the globalized mainstream fashion system and historical alternatives that provide compelling inspiration for reimagining the status quo. Fascinating and timely, Historical Perspectives on Sustainable Fashion examines progressive fashion through a historical lens, encouraging readers to question the state of the industry and demonstrating the value of historical insights in enabling and inspiring change.

Fashion generates over a trillion dollars in sales annually and has the priceless ability to beguile its customers around the world. Fashion Entrepreneurship: The Creation of the Global Fashion Business provides the first authoritative history of the global fashion industry, from its emergence to the present day, with a focus on the entrepreneurs at the nucleus of many of the world’s influential brands. It shows how successive generations of entrepreneurs built and developed their brands, democratizing access to fashion brands throughout the world.

This book analyzes the careers of the greatest fashion entrepreneurs from the nineteenth century onward, including such legendary names as Charles Worth, Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Giorgio Armani. It shows how this distinct form of entrepreneurship has arisen and what lessons new entrepreneurs can learn from the past to create thriving fashion businesses in today’s rapidly changing modern world.

Filled with fascinating stories from the world of fashion, as well as detailed business analysis and practical advice for people looking to create successful brands, Fashion Entrepreneurship is an essential read for students of fashion and entrepreneurship, and anyone looking to understand, and succeed in, this most glamorous of industries.

Table of Contents

Introduction: The Business of Fashion

Part I Fashion Rising

The Birth of Fashion Entrepreneurship (1845-1895)

Fashion, Art, and Beauty (1895-1914)

Part II Fashion Diffusion

Fashion Amid War and Depression (1914-1945)

The Golden Age of Haute Couture (1945-1959)

The Changing Face of the Fashion Business (1960s onward)

Part III Fashion Entrepreneurship: Theory and Practice

Building the Fashion Firm: Entrepreneurial Capabilities for Fashion Business Success

The Fashion Entrepreneurship Model: Dynamics Creating Sustainable Competitive Advantage

Fashion Business Models: Entrepreneurial Drivers, Opportunities, and Challenges

Conclusion: The Dream Makers