The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers: Menswear offers patternmaking techniques for a variety of garment styles and includes information on sizing, lining, and a variety of fabrics. Covering everything from casual to tailored designs, it can serve both as an introduction to the pattern-drafting skills necessary for menswear and as a more in-depth treatment of patternmaking techniques. The guide covers the patternmaking process for an array of menswear garments, as well as the accompanying theories and concepts.

"This book provides a fresh approach to building a fashion business. I believe that both academics and startup businesses would find this book useful." Karen Edwards, University of South Carolina, USA "I think that this text will be very useful to anyone working in fashion. I would certainly recommend it as reference reading to MBA students and to undergraduates who are taking entrepreneurship courses." Thomai Serdari, New York University, USA Learn how to protect your business through prevention with a fashion compliance program. The book takes a merchandise-centric "how-to" approach. It explains the laws related to fashion compliance including, labeling, marketing, testing, importing and exporting, record keeping, and more. Written by a fashion-law expert, the book includes interviews with professionals and discusses the European Union apparel label law, as well as relevant United States' laws, to help you run your fashion business.

Charting the movements, developments and ideas that transformed the way women dress, this book gives a unique perspective on the history of twentieth-century fashion. From the invention of the bias cut and the stiletto heel to the designers who changed the way we think about clothes, the book is entertaining, intelligent and a visual feast.

Successful fashion merchandising, branding and communication start with satisfyingly sensory and interactive shopping experiences. With Kate Schaefer's beautifully illustrated and practical book, learn how retailers create these experiences to connect with shoppers, enhance the retail experience, and achieve brand loyalty. With company highlights from brands such as Amazon Go, FIT:MATCH and Sephora, Swipe, Scan, Shop shows how fashion retailers are embracing the omnichannel retail experience, by using virtual and augmented reality, beacon technologies and facial recognition, among others. As shoppers become more dependent on digital devices as part of their shopping experience, visual merchandisers are adapting by incorporating mobile tech to tell a story, alert shoppers of product locations and inventory levels, and allow for the customization of products and sharing with friends. With a companion website that includes resources and links to further information and videos discussed in the book, this practical guide shows how to inform, entice, and engage customers by incorporating social technology throughout the shopping experience.

Winner, 2016 Best First Book Prize from the Immigration and Ethnic History Society Finalist, 2016 Sami Rohr Prize for Jewish Literature Winner, 2015 Book Prize from the Southern Jewish Historical Society Finalist, 2015 Jordan Schnitzer Book Award from the Association for Jewish Studies Winner, 2014 National Jewish Book Award in American Jewish Studies from the Jewish Book Council The majority of Jewish immigrants who made their way to the United States between 1820 and 1924 arrived nearly penniless; yet today their descendants stand out as exceptionally successful. How can we explain their dramatic economic ascent? Have Jews been successful because of cultural factors distinct to them as a group, or because of the particular circumstances that they encountered in America? The Rag Race argues that the Jews who flocked to the United States during the age of mass migration were aided appreciably by their association with a particular corner of the American economy: the rag trade. From humble beginnings, Jews rode the coattails of the clothing trade from the margins of economic life to a position of unusual promise and prominence, shaping both their societal status and the clothing industry as a whole. Comparing the history of Jewish participation within the clothing trade in the United States with that of Jews in the same business in England, The Rag Race demonstrates that differences within the garment industry on either side of the Atlantic contributed to a very real divergence in social and economic outcomes for Jews in each setting.

The use of computers has opened up remarkable opportunities for innovative design, improved productivity, and greater efficiency in the use of materials. Uniquely, this book focuses on the practical use of computers for clothing pattern design and product development. Readers are introduced to the various computer systems which are suitable for the industry, the principles and techniques of pattern design applied to computer systems are explained, and readers are shown how product data management can be used in clothing product development.

A revealing, no-holds-barred portrait of the legendary Eileen Ford-the entrepreneur who transformed the business of modeling and helped invent the celebrity supermodel. Working with her husband, Jerry, Eileen Ford created the twentieth century's largest and most successful modeling agency, representing some of the fashion world's most famous names-Suzy Parker, Carmen Dell'Orefice, Lauren Hutton, Rene Russo, Christie Brinkley, Jerry Hall, Christy Turlington, and Naomi Campbell. Her relentless ambition turned the business of modeling into one of the most glamorous and desired professions, helping to convert her stable of beautiful faces into millionaire superstars. Model Woman chronicles the Ford Modeling Agency's meteoric rise to the top of the fashion and beauty business, and paints a vibrant portrait of the uncompromising woman at its helm in all her glittering, tyrannical brilliance. Outspoken and controversial, Ford was never afraid to offend in defense of her stringent standards. When she chose, she could deliver hauteur in the grand tradition of fashion's battle-axes, from Coco Chanel to Diana Vreeland-just ask John Casablancas or Janice Dickinson. But she was also a shrewd businesswoman with a keen eye for talent and a passion for serving her clients. Drawing on more than four years of intensive interviews with Ford and her intimates, associates, and rivals, as well as exclusive access to agency documents and memorabilia, Robert Lacey weaves an unforgettable tale of a determined entrepreneur and the empire she built-a story of beauty, ambition, business, and popular culture as powerful and complex as the woman at its center.

This is your invitation to the front row. Spanning over seven decades and 300 shows, this beautiful book tells the story of the high fashion catwalk. Through this inspirational collection of fashion show invites and tales from fashion week, curator and fashion writer Iain R Webb opens a window into the world's most exclusive fashion houses. Whether it's dreamy romance at Givenchy, cutting-edge modernity at Alexander McQueen, floral drama at Valentino, vintage-inspired fun at Kenzo or heartfelt emotion at Yves Saint Laurent's final haute couture show, the unique themes and styles that have graced the runway in the past 50 years are gloriously curated and described in The Fashion Show. From understated presentation to melodramatic performance, this stylish archive is your passport to the international fashion collections.

How are aesthetics and ethics related to the practical realities of the global fashion industry? Both have played an important role in academic fashion studies to this point, but they are most often discussed in the context of abstract phenomena such as modernity and capitalism, or identity issues such as sexuality, class and gender. The essays in this volume strive instead to show how the realities of the global fashion industry have important and pertinent aesthetic and ethical consequences. This collection provides critical and philosophical analysis of the interplay of aesthetics and ethics within the global fashion industry. Characterized by an increasingly fast spinning production, the industry is highly exploitative in terms of environment and labor force: underpaid textile workers, retailers working under brutal competition from the mass-merchandise discounters, young designers, seamstresses and curators often working for free, and a vast body of aspiring models. In addition, fashion-related aesthetic ideals are becoming more influential than ever in directing consumers in their social and personal identification processes and bodily practices with sometimes fatal consequences. Covering a wide range of subjects such as fashion's highly problematic production and consumption practices, the possibility of producing and consuming fashion ethically, fashion's intimate connection with nature and technology, Fashion Aesthetics and Ethics highlights the powerful aesthetical presence of fashion in relation to its ethical premises and often problematic outcomes.

In 1909, the largest department store in London's West End, designed and built from scratch, opened in Oxford Street in a glorious burst of publicity. The mastermind behind the facade was American retail genius Harry Gordon Selfridge: maverick businessman, risk-taker, dandy and one of the greatest showmen the retail world has ever known. His talents were to create the seduction of shopping, and as his success and fame grew, so did his glittering lifestyle: mansions, yachts, gambling, racehorses - and mistresses. From the glamour of Edwardian England, through the turmoil of the Great War and the heady excesses of the 1920s and beyond, Selfridges Department Store was 'a theatre with the curtain going up at 9 o'clock each morning'. Mr Selfridge reveals the captivating story of the rise and fall of the man who revolutionised the way we shop. The third series of Mr Selfridge will air on ITV in January 2015. 'Lively and entertaining' Sunday Telegraph 'Will change your view of shopping forever' Vogue 'Harry Selfridge revolutionised the way we shop ... fascinating' Daily Mail

How are aesthetics and ethics related to the practical realities of the global fashion industry? Both have played an important role in academic fashion studies to this point, but they are most often discussed in the context of abstract phenomena such as modernity and capitalism, or identity issues such as sexuality, class and gender. The essays in this volume strive instead to show how the realities of the global fashion industry have important and pertinent aesthetic and ethical consequences. This collection provides critical and philosophical analysis of the interplay of aesthetics and ethics within the global fashion industry. Characterized by an increasingly fast spinning production, the industry is highly exploitative in terms of environment and labor force: underpaid textile workers, retailers working under brutal competition from the mass-merchandise discounters, young designers, seamstresses and curators often working for free, and a vast body of aspiring models. In addition, fashion-related aesthetic ideals are becoming more influential than ever in directing consumers in their social and personal identification processes and bodily practices with sometimes fatal consequences. Covering a wide range of subjects such as fashion's highly problematic production and consumption practices, the possibility of producing and consuming fashion ethically, fashion's intimate connection with nature and technology, Fashion Aesthetics and Ethics highlights the powerful aesthetical presence of fashion in relation to its ethical premises and often problematic outcomes.

In Search of Perfumes is a fragrant journey across the world, revealing the beauty and mysteries of the perfume trade. Fruits, flowers, spices, bark, leaves, and branches are just some of the natural ingredients from the plant world that are used in the creation of perfume. Dominique Roques, travelling from Andalusia to Somaliland by way of Bulgaria, Laos, El Salvador, Indonesia and Egypt, describes his search to find the best natural ingredients, precious to perfumers everywhere. In Search of Perfumes demonstrates how the prestigious multi-million-pound perfume industry may begin its life as a single plant harvested by producers surviving on ancestral traditions and techniques and often risking their lives in the process as they combat the rising threat of climate change. Roques reveals the beauty and mysteries of a familiar trade; a return to the source of the world's scents.

"Elizabeth Currid's hip trip through New York's production of creative culture is a tour de force."--Quincy Jones, producer

"I've uttered the words 'It just kind of happened' with a shrug hundreds of times when asked about the quick success of my band. Elizabeth Currid blows that lazy response to smithereens by showing the work behind 'word of mouth.' I think I'll have a better answer now."--Lee Sargent, Clap Your Hands Say Yeah

"The old economy made deals over golf games and three-martini lunches. Creative New York organizes its networks around art openings, fashion shows, and nightlife. But these networks are a lot more than fun and games. They are deeply important to how new innovations are produced, how cities work to sustain creativity and turn it into commercial value. Cities drive our economies; creativity drives our cities. With her keen eye, sharp analysis, and detailed fieldwork, Elizabeth Currid shows us why and how. In "The Warhol Economy," she has unlocked the best-kept secrets in New York."--Richard Florida, author of "The Rise of the Creative Class"

"Elizabeth Currid's "The Warhol Economy" raises distinctive policy implications: namely, cities will get bigger payoffs by supporting milieu rather than museum. Laws that hurt the clubs are almost as bad as the rising rents that price-out the artists. Tax breaks to corporations make no sense whatever. Currid is more than plausible on all these issues."--Harvey Molotch, New York University

"Elizabeth Currid has written a wonderful book. She shows that the arts and culture are not simply 'service industries.' Examining arts and culture in New York for the understanding they provide about deeper changes in our world, Currid addresses fundamental sociological issues while also engaging the general reader--with clarity, insight, humor, and passion. The reader feels taken along to the offices and nightclubs where some of the most creative people in New York gather."--Terry Clark, University of Chicago

Through ten detailed case studies on groundbreaking brands like Vivienne Westwood, Vera Wang, Levi's (R), and The Gap Inc., Fashion Brand Stories shows how fashion retailers and designers use storytelling to establish and maintain relationships with their customers. These entertaining case studies explore the evolution of each brand as a cultural entity with its own carefully crafted personality. Aided by interviews with industry professionals, you'll learn how brands start out, grow and encounter success or failure and how to apply those hard-won lessons to your own thoughts on branding. This beautifully illustrated third edition covers the changing role of social media, celebrity endorsements, quality over quantity, and more ethical sourcing, manufacturing, and consumption. Instructor's resources to accompany this edition are available at bloomsbury.pub/fashion-brand-stories-3e

The Japanese fashion designer Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons is undoubtedly one of the world's major fashion designers. In 2017 she was the second living designer to ever be given a retrospective at the renowned Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Her work exerts an extraordinary influence over succeeding generations of designers and is a major point of reference for all those wishing to explore the place of fashion in contemporary culture. The 14 essays in this collection, written by eminent fashion theorists from around the world, ask what is the relationship of Kawakubo's work to art, philosophy and architecture, and ultimately illustrate how Kawakubo's creative output allows us to understand the very notion of fashion itself.

Once a luxury that only the elite could afford, fashion is now accessible to all. High street brands such as Zara, Topshop and H&M have put fashion within the reach of anyone, whilst massive media attention has turned designers such as Tom Ford, Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney into brands in their own right. Fashion Brands takes you 'behind the seams', so to speak, exposing how the use of advertising, store design and the media has altered our fashion 'sense' and how a mere piece of clothing can be transformed into something with mystical allure. Packed with first-hand interviews with fashion brand gurus and industry insiders, this fully updated 3rd edition of the international bestselling Fashion Brands has its finger on the fashion pulse more firmly than ever. It now includes more on celebrity fashion brands and the rise of the 'It' girls and their influence to further analyze every aspect of fashion from a marketing perspective.

With The Fashion Design Toolkit you'll learn how tried-and-tested techniques like gathers, pleats, tucks, and twists can help you adapt patterns and create your own original garment designs. Tracy Jennings walks you through 18 patterning tactics to inspire fresh ideas, demonstrating how embracing pattern drafting skills can lead to innovative and effective collections. Each technique is illustrated in a variety of contexts, showing how and why it has been used by other designers, so you can use the history of each tool as inspiration for your original collections. Ethical practice is woven throughout the book, with tips on how to implement techniques in an environmentally sustainable way. The 18 essential techniques are divided into 5 categories: Establishing Fit and Flare: Darts, Slash & Spread, Seaming, Insets Channeling Fullness: Gathers, Ruffles, Pleats, Tucks Fashioning the Fluid and Unstructured: Arcs, Flounces, Drapes, Twists Engineering Fabric and Form: Contouring, Structure, Textile Designs Focusing on Concepts: Adaptation, Reduction, Zero Waste Online resources include a downloadable pattern block, which is available in US sizes 4-18. www.bloomsburyonlineresources.com/fashion-design-toolkit

What if fashion was a state? What kind of state would it be? Probably not a democracy. Otto von Busch sees fashion as a totalitarian state, with a population all too eager to enact the decrees of its aesthetic superiority. Peers police each other and deploy acts of judgment, peer-regulation, and micro-violence to uphold the aesthetic order of fashion supremacy. Using four design projects as tools for inquiry, Von Busch explores the seductive desires of envy and violence within fashion drawing on political theories. He proposes that the violent conflicts of fashion happen not only in arid cotton fields or collapsing factories, but in the everyday practice of getting dressed, in the judgments, sneers, and rejections of others. Indeed, he suggests that feelings of inclusion and adoration are what make us feel the pleasure of being fashionable-of being seductive, popular, and powerful. Exploring the conflicting emotions associated with fashion, Von Busch argues that while the current state of fashion is bred out of fear, The Psychopolitics of Fashion can offer constructive modes of mitigation and resistance. Through projects that actively work towards disarming the violent practices of dress, Von Busch suggests paths towards a more engaging and meaningful experience of fashion he calls "deep fashion."

Sociologist Ashley Mears takes us behind the brightly lit runways and glossy advertisements of the fashion industry in this insider's study of the world of modeling. Mears, who worked as a model in New York and London, draws on observations as well as extensive interviews with male and female models, agents, clients, photographers, stylists, and others, to explore the economics and politics - and the arbitrariness - behind the business of glamour. Exploring a largely hidden arena of cultural production, she shows how the right 'look' is discovered, developed, and packaged to become a prized commodity. She examines how models sell themselves, how agents promote them, and how clients decide to hire them. An original contribution to the sociology of work in the new cultural economy, "Pricing Beauty" offers rich, accessible analysis of the invisible ways in which gender, race, and class shape worth in the marketplace.

From the first sketch to handling a prototype, Fashion Design: The Complete Guide is an all-inclusive overview of the entire design process. This second edition begins with an exploration of fashion in the context of different histories and cultural moments, before fashion designer, and educator John Hopkins walks you through fashion drawing, colour, fibres, research methods, and studio must-knows such as pattern making, draping and fitting. You'll also learn how to develop your portfolio and practice as a professional designer. Each of the six chapters ends with activities to help you hone your skills. Interviewees include Stefan Siegel (founder and CEO of Not Just A Label), Maggie Norris (Founder of Maggie Norris Couture and former designer at Ralph Lauren), Samson Soboye (Creative Director and Founder of Soboye Boutique) and Jessica Bird (a fashion illustrator, whose clients include Vivienne Westwood and matchesfashion.com). With discussion of the evolving role of social media and the practicalities of incorporating sustainability at the centre of the design process this is an essential text for any aspiring fashion designer.

From Elizabeth Keckly's designs as a freewoman for Abraham Lincoln's wife to flamboyant clothing showcased by Patrick Kelly in Paris, Black designers have made major contributions to American fashion. However, many of their achievements have gone unrecognized. This book, inspired by the award-winning exhibition at the Museum at FIT, uncovers hidden histories of Black designers at a time when conversations about representation and racialized experiences in the fashion industry have reached all-time highs. In chapters from leading and up-and-coming authors and curators, Black Designers in American Fashion uses previously unexplored sources to show how Black designers helped build America's global fashion reputation. From enslaved 18th-century dressmakers to 20th-century "star" designers, via independent modistes and Seventh Avenue workers, the book traces the changing experiences of Black designers under conditions such as slavery, segregation, and the Civil Rights Movement. Black Designers in American Fashion shows that within these contexts Black designers maintained multifaceted practices which continue to influence American and global style today. Interweaving fashion design and American cultural history, this book fills critical gaps in the history of fashion and offers insights and context to students of fashion, design, and American and African American history and culture.

"The book is an excellent resource for students in identifying the range of positions they can have in the fashion industry. Interviews with professionals are included to aid students in decision making about careers choices." - Lori Faulkner, Ferris State University, USA Learn what to expect on the job, required education and training, and the relationship of the role to the fashion industry as a whole. Among the more than 75 role descriptions are four new roles for Sustainability Officer, Transparency Officer, Data Analyst, and Reference Librarian. More than 175 images show you recent developments affecting the industry sectors and career opportunities. Case studies, Social media Strikes features, chapter summaries, key terms, online resources, discussion questions, and a glossary will help you identify which careers match your aptitudes, skill sets, and interests. New to this Edition * In-depth job descriptions for a wider range of careers expanded to include Technical Designer, Brand Marketing Manager, and Spreader and Cutter, among others * New sections on recycling and sustainability, trends in brand marketing, and portfolio development and presentation * Fully updated online resources throughout the book * Updated Case Studies in Career Exploration boxes showcase profiles of companies, interviews with individuals, industry scenarios, and insider tips * Updated Appendices include sample resumes and career positions sorted by career areas, with Web links to salary and benefit information The Fashion Industry and Its Careers STUDIO Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary

In the first critical history of French ready-made fashion, Alexis Romano examines an array of cultural sources, including surviving garments, fashion magazines, film, photography and interviews, to weave together previously disparate historical narratives. The resulting volume – Prêt-à-Porter: Paris and Women – situates the ready-made in wider cultural discourses of art, design, urbanism, technology and international policy. Through a close study of fashion magazines, including Vogue and Elle, Romano reveals how the French ready-made and the genre of fashion photography in France developed in tandem. Analyses of representations of space, women and prêt-à-porter in such magazines – alongside other cultural ephemera such as contemporary film, documentary photography and family photographs – demonstrate that popular conceptions of fashion and modernity shifted in the period 1945-68. By connecting national and personal histories, Prêt-à-Porter: Paris and Women reveals the importance of the ready-made to broader narratives of postwar reconstruction, national identity, gender and international dialogue.

Costing for the Fashion Industry is a practical, easy-to-use guide to the manufacture, sourcing and risk management methods essential to make a new fashion business venture financially viable. Each chapter focuses on a theme, such as entrepreneurship, time constraints, global awareness and new markets and sourcing, alongside practical exercises and detailed industry case studies to put the theory into context. This second edition explores capital investment decisions, the changing nature of cost and the importance of global awareness and new markets, as well as expanded coverage of internationalization strategies for SMEs.