From Elizabeth Keckly's designs as a freewoman for Abraham Lincoln's wife to flamboyant clothing showcased by Patrick Kelly in Paris, Black designers have made major contributions to American fashion. However, many of their achievements have gone unrecognized. This book, inspired by the award-winning exhibition at the Museum at FIT, uncovers hidden histories of Black designers at a time when conversations about representation and racialized experiences in the fashion industry have reached all-time highs. In chapters from leading and up-and-coming authors and curators, Black Designers in American Fashion uses previously unexplored sources to show how Black designers helped build America's global fashion reputation. From enslaved 18th-century dressmakers to 20th-century "star" designers, via independent modistes and Seventh Avenue workers, the book traces the changing experiences of Black designers under conditions such as slavery, segregation, and the Civil Rights Movement. Black Designers in American Fashion shows that within these contexts Black designers maintained multifaceted practices which continue to influence American and global style today. Interweaving fashion design and American cultural history, this book fills critical gaps in the history of fashion and offers insights and context to students of fashion, design, and American and African American history and culture.

"It's a great, strong read. Lots of information if you don't have background knowledge of this topic." Carmen Carter, El Centro College, USA "The text is a thorough view of fashion forecasting that helps students understand this segment of the industry as well as identify the steps and skills required to pursue a career as a fashion forecaster." Amy Harden, Ball State University, USA Learn how to anticipate emerging trends and how to prepare and present your own fashion forecast. Three new chapters on fashion eras, world cultures, and subcultures show you influences on fashion innovation yesterday and today, so that you can spot those of tomorrow. New Influencer profiles focus on trend creators, rather than trend popularizers, to show you how to find key people from many creative fields who shape popular fashion. A new appendix covers how to create a fashion forecast and a streamlined chapter organization is concise without sacrificing depth. Includes 125 color illustrations. Within the STUDIO, students will be able to: Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary

Social Media for Fashion Marketing uses cutting edge case studies and detailed interviews to show how the business of fashion is changing in the digital landscape. Bendoni (@BendoniStyle) also considers the psychological impact of being a hyper-connected consumer and the generational gaps in social media communication. Using academic research, alongside her 25 years of fashion marketing experience, Bendoni offers a clear picture of the changing narrative of storytelling, social confirmation, digital nesting and how to use data to shape a brand's online presence. With practical and critical thinking activities to hone your skills into professional practice, this is the ultimate guide to social marketing, promotion, SEO, branding and communication. Featured topics - Rules of Digital Storytelling - Rethinking Gamification - Strategic Digital Marketing - The Role of Citizen Journalists - The Social Media Looking Glass - World of Influencer Marketing - Visual Consumption Economy - Global Perspective of Social Media

"‘Clothing that is not purchased or worn is not fashion’" (to paraphrase Armani)

Knowledge of marketing is essential to help ensure success and reduce the risk of failure in fashion. For the designer starting up in business, this book offers a guide to the major decisions that will enable you to fulfil your creative potential and be a financial success: What are the major trends we should be monitoring?; How should we set our prices?; What is the most effective way to get our message across about the new product range?; Which colour-wash will be the most popular with buyers?

Marketing is now a firmly established element of most fashion and clothing courses. "Fashion Marketing" is written to meet students’ requirements and has many features making it essential reading for anyone involved in the fashion and clothing business:

· deals with contemporary issues in fashion marketing

· up-to-date examples of global good practice

· exclusively about fashion marketing

· a unique contribution on range planning with a practical blend of sound design sense and commercial realism

· a balance of theory and practice, with examples to illustrate key concepts

· clear worked numerical examples to ensure that the ideas are easily understood and retained

· over 50 diagrams

· a glossary of the main fashion marketing terms and a guide to further reading

· a systematic approach to fashion marketing, not hyperbole or speculation.

The new edition has been updated throughout with new material on different promotional media, visual marketing and international marketing research; and new coverage of internal marketing, supply chain management, international marketing communications as well as the role of the internet.

"See www.blackwellpublishing.com/easey for supporting pack for tutors, including PowerPoint slides for each chapter plus ideas and exercises for seminars. "

The dressmaking trade developed rapidly during the 18th and 19th centuries, changing the lives of thousands of British workers. Busks, Basques and Brush-Braid focuses on the trade and the people within it, from their working conditions and earnings to their training, services and relationships with customers. Exploring the lives of dressmakers in fact and fiction, the book looks at representations of the trade in the plays and novels of the time, while surveying the often harsh realities of the workers' lives. From the arrival of the sewing machine to the influence of the department store, it explores the impact of mechanization, commercialization and modernity on a historical trade. Pamela Inder illuminates a new world of dressmaking enabled by goods like paper patterns and magazines, and sets out to investigate the increasing monopoly of female dressmakers in an industry once dominated by male tailors. Drawing on a range of original and hitherto unpublished sources - including business records, diaries, letters, bills and newspaper articles - Busks, Basques and Brush-Braid reveals the untold story of the dressmaking trade. Beautifully illustrated with over 80 images, the book brings dressmakers into focus as real people, granting new insights into working class life in 18th- and 19th-century Britain.

Today, OPI is known as a global beauty icon, famous for its trend-setting colors, unforgettable shade names, and celebrity collaborations with the biggest stars from film, television, music, and sports. But behind all the glamour is the little-known tale of OPI's unlikely origins-an intimate and inspiring story of a timid schoolgirl who arrives in this country with little money and no English and becomes the business leader and industry game-changer known worldwide as "Suzi, the First Lady of Nails." In I'm Not Really a Waitress--titled after OPI's top-selling nail color--Suzi reveals the events that led her family to flee Communist Hungary and eventually come to New York City in pursuit of the American dream. She shares how those early experiences gave rise to OPI's revolutionary vision of freedom and empowerment, and how Suzi transformed an industry by celebrating the power of color-and of women themselves.

Fashion generates over a trillion dollars in sales annually and has the priceless ability to beguile its customers around the world. Fashion Entrepreneurship: The Creation of the Global Fashion Business provides the first authoritative history of the global fashion industry, from its emergence to the present day, with a focus on the entrepreneurs at the nucleus of many of the world’s influential brands. It shows how successive generations of entrepreneurs built and developed their brands, democratizing access to fashion brands throughout the world.

This book analyzes the careers of the greatest fashion entrepreneurs from the nineteenth century onward, including such legendary names as Charles Worth, Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, and Giorgio Armani. It shows how this distinct form of entrepreneurship has arisen and what lessons new entrepreneurs can learn from the past to create thriving fashion businesses in today’s rapidly changing modern world.

Filled with fascinating stories from the world of fashion, as well as detailed business analysis and practical advice for people looking to create successful brands, Fashion Entrepreneurship is an essential read for students of fashion and entrepreneurship, and anyone looking to understand, and succeed in, this most glamorous of industries.

Table of Contents

Introduction: The Business of Fashion

Part I Fashion Rising

The Birth of Fashion Entrepreneurship (1845-1895)

Fashion, Art, and Beauty (1895-1914)

Part II Fashion Diffusion

Fashion Amid War and Depression (1914-1945)

The Golden Age of Haute Couture (1945-1959)

The Changing Face of the Fashion Business (1960s onward)

Part III Fashion Entrepreneurship: Theory and Practice

Building the Fashion Firm: Entrepreneurial Capabilities for Fashion Business Success

The Fashion Entrepreneurship Model: Dynamics Creating Sustainable Competitive Advantage

Fashion Business Models: Entrepreneurial Drivers, Opportunities, and Challenges

Conclusion: The Dream Makers

Since 1818, Brooks Brothers, America s oldest clothing brand, has grown into a global sartorial institution that has influenced American style through its iconic fashions, which conjure intimate memories of pivotal life events from your first navy blazer as a child to stepping into a bespoke suit on your wedding day. On the eve of its two-hundredth anniversary, Brooks Brothers remains synonymous with timeless style, the finest quality, and innovative designs that resonate with both old and new generations. This richly illustrated book is replete with photographs of the signature heritage pieces, from the Original Polo button-down oxford, grey flannel suit, and Rep ties to the camel overcoat, and features an unparalleled roster of high-profile political and cultural icons who have worn and made these pieces their own: from Abraham Lincoln and John F. Kennedy to Madonna, Lady Gaga, Grace Kelly, Katharine Hepburn, Miles Davis, and Andy Warhol, as well as TV and film stars in Glee, Gossip Girl, Mad Men, and Baz Luhrmann s The Great Gatsby. The text comprises interviews and personal anecdotes from the retailer s loyal clientele fashion designers, writers, and celebrities each sharing treasured memories and connections to Brooks Brothers. This dazzling volume invites readers to delve into the world of Brooks Brothers, providing insight into the people, places, and historical moments that have shaped and provoked the innovative yet timeless American institution, and is a must for those interested in fashion and American style.

The Fundamentals of Digital Fashion Marketing introduces and explores contemporary digital marketing practices within the fashion industry. Clare Harris clearly explains key digital marketing strategies and examines and illustrates their role in fashion through exciting and memorable industry examples. Marketing practices covered include online marketing, social media, video, mobile technologies, in-store technologies, augmented reality and digital spaces. The text features interviews and case studies from some of fashion's biggest brands and most cutting-edge marketing companies, while also promoting active learning through engaging activities and exercises. This all combines to create a book that will inform, stimulate and inspire the next generation of creative marketers.

The term 'tailored' has changed as methods of manufacture and the retailing of clothes have evolved. This book demonstrates the wide range of cutting methods used to produce garments which are described as 'tailored' jackets. Although the main focus is on modern methods of producing clothing, a rich and complex cutting tradition is acknowledged and used. It is hoped that the modern garment designer will be inspired to rediscover methods that retain their validity today.

The different approaches to 'tailored' cutting are described under three headings: bespoke cutting, engineered cutting and style cutting. The rich heritage of the latter came from the tremendous creativity that was unleashed by women's emancipation at the beginning of the twentieth century and the merging of tailored styles with fashionable clothing. The section on style cutting has therefore derived some of the cutting techniques from that period, thus demonstrating how they can be applied to current methods of production.

Prior to the 1970s-1980s, fashion marketing focused heavily (and perhaps solely) on women's fashions. Today, fashion marketing influences all products and the manner of style consumers use products. How products are marketed, when products are marketed, the evolution of products into different sizes, shapes, color, and uses are all influenced by fashion marketers. Fashion marketing is taken to different levels from branding a person (e.g., Ralph Lauren, the person), line of products (e.g., Lexus luxury cars) to a single product (e.g., Coach handbag). This much needed text will provide information regarding the introduction, making and machine the industry calls Fashion Marketing. Features: -- Addresses how branding and imaging of fashion, once used for a product or product line, is now used for the company spokesperson, owner, or representative -- Looks at the industry through a global perspective -- Case Studies including company logo and discussion of the company's impact on fashion marketing -- Online links throughout the chapter for students and instructors to investigate fashion marketing around the U.S. and world -- End of chapter elements include: summary, list of key terms, 3-4 assignments, discussion questions, study questions, and references -- Appendix includes glossary, bibliography and references (both for citations within text and for further study), index for subject and company -- Instructor's Guide includes exams with answers -- PowerPoint(r) Presentation provides outlines and ideas for lectures; compatible with PC and Mac platforms

How did powder and paint, once scorned as immoral, become indispensable to millions of respectable women? How did a "kitchen physic," as homemade cosmetics were once called, become a multibillion-dollar industry? And how did men finally take over that rarest of institutions, a woman's business?In "Hope in a Jar," historian Kathy Peiss gives us the first full-scale social history of America's beauty culture, from the buttermilk and rice powder recommended by Victorian recipe books to the mass-produced products of our contemporary consumer age. She shows how women, far from being pawns and victims, used makeup to declare their freedom, identity, and sexual allure as they flocked to enter public life. And she highlights the leading role of white and black women--Helena Rubenstein and Annie Turnbo Malone, Elizabeth Arden and Madame C. J. Walker--in shaping a unique industry that relied less on advertising than on women's customs of visiting and conversation. Replete with the voices and experiences of ordinary women, "Hope in a Jar" is a richly textured account of the ways women created the cosmetics industry and cosmetics created the modern woman.

In her collection of autobiographical essays, fashion magazine editor Justine Cullen takes us on a hilariously candid exploration of her life so far - and all the mistakes she's made along the way. Semi-Gloss is an intimate, sharp and witty look at growing up and growing older from the kind of woman who seems like she has it all together - the glamorous job, the perfect family, the killer wardrobe. But, chipping away at that shiny, sparkly surface, Justine reveals the beautiful mess that lies beneath. A wildly entertaining and sometimes bumpy ride through a life well-lived, by one of Australia's most respected female voices.

Newcomers to the fashion industry often base costings on the sum of a style's fabric, trims and labor-and to that they simply add their markup. However, every other activity of the business erodes that markup, and they find themselves with an unsustainable profit-or a loss. This guide will help you avoid these pitfalls to guarantee a sustainable profit. Apparel Costing details traditional and current costing methods for the fast-paced and e-commerce-focused fashion marketplace. You will learn industry-specific product/style costing that can be applied to garments produced both locally and globally. You'll also learn how to calculate line item percentages on indirect cost factors, such as factory sourcing, overhead, administration and product development. Key topics include: Target Market Pricing; Variable vs Fixed Costs; Direct vs Indirect Cost Factors; Cost-Based vs Value-Based Costing; Domestic vs International Production Costing; Effect of Sourcing on Costing; Sustainability in Costing; Fast Fashion vs. Slow Fashion

Fashion Brand Merchandising introduces the concepts and practices that will help students build, develop, and work with fashion brands, Beginning with an overview of the branding concept and a description of those professionals and processes that develop the brand image and the actual products identified with that image, this text covers how branding and merchandising activities are interrelated and interdependent with respect to marketing fashion-related products. In whatever capacity, you work with fashion brands - marketer, merchandiser, retailer, or designer - this text includes information you will need to work meaningfully with fashion brands. Features -- Focus on Fashion Brands feature an article or case study relevant to the topics of the specific chapters -- Brand Managers Notebook - exercises designed to assist development of your career -- BRANDLAB provides an opportunity to create a fashion brand -- Instructor's Guide provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text -- Powerpoint presentation

Few phenomena embody the notion of time as well as fashion. Fast-moving and rooted in the 'now', it's constantly creating its own past through the process of rapid style change. Uniquely poised between the past and the future, fashion's relationship with time is unorthodox. Rather than considering time in the conventional sense, this anthology explores three alternative ways to think about fashion and time: the first identifies the seasonal nature of fashion as an industry, and shows how this has impacted on workers and wearers alike. The second looks at fashion design as a ceaseless process of adaptation, reconstruction and recombination of motifs, in which nostalgia and revivals play their part. The third construes fashion's 'imaginary', with its capacity for fantasy and myth-making, as a form of alternate history that asks 'what if?' Within this framework, key classic texts are juxtaposed with lesser known ones, in an interdisciplinary approach that includes philosophy, history, literature, media and fashion design, ranging from the 18th century to the present. It will be of interest to anyone wishing to understand one of the most complex yet inescapable aspects of fashion, its relationship to time, and will be a critical resource for undergraduate and postgraduate students in the humanities and all those interested in fashion in all its creative, commercial and cultural aspects.

Are you aware that the T-shirt or running shoes you're wearing may have been produced by a 13-year-old children working 14-hour days for 30 cents an hour? The clothing sweatshop, as a recent string of media exposes has revealed, is back in business. Don't be fooled by a label which says the item was made in the USA or Europe. It could have been sewed on in Haiti or Indonesia--or in a domestic workshop, where conditions rival those in the third world. The label might tell you how to treat the garment but it says nothing about how the worker who made it was treated. To find out about that you need to read this book. "No Sweat" will show you:
How Michael Jordan earned more for endorsing Nike running shoes than the company's 30,000 Indonesian workers get between them in a year.
How Disney CEO Michael Eisner's annual pay and stock options, worth $200 million, are paid for out of profits from the sale of Pocahontas and Hunchback of Notre Dame T-shirts made by Haitian teenagers working for less than $10 per week and force-fed contraceptive pills.
How companies like the Gap and Wal-Mart (producer of the Kathie Lee Gifford line) have been forced into embarrassing concessions after successful campaigning by the New York-based National Labor Committee, the American garment workers union UNITE and the European-based Clean Clothes Campaign.
How you can join the growing global campaign of consumer groups, human rights activists, and international labor organizations to close down sweatshops and guarantee basic rights for those who cut and sew our clothes.
In hard-hitting words and pictures, "No Sweat" surveys the chasm between the glamor of the catwalk and the squalor of the sweatshop.
Don't go shopping without it

How do fashion designers conceive of, develop and ultimately launch commercially and creatively successful collections? Developing a Fashion Collection walks you through the process, exploring research techniques, sources of inspiration, forecasting trends and designing for different markets. From couture to high street, knitwear to accessories and covering the implications of online shopping - there's advice on every aspect of creating your collection through 27 insightful interviews with international practitioners. Interviewees include John Mooney, Brand Creative Director at ASOS and Jane Palmer Williams, Head of Executive Development at LVMH. This 3rd edition also covers silhouette, fittings and final samples, sustainable practice, developing high street collections, fabric selection and finding inspiration through vintage designs.

Costing for the Fashion Industry is a practical, easy-to-use guide to the manufacture, sourcing and risk management methods essential to make a new fashion business venture financially viable. Each chapter focuses on a theme, such as entrepreneurship, time constraints, global awareness and new markets and sourcing, alongside practical exercises and detailed industry case studies to put the theory into context. This second edition explores capital investment decisions, the changing nature of cost and the importance of global awareness and new markets, as well as expanded coverage of internationalization strategies for SMEs.

"The book is an excellent resource for students in identifying the range of positions they can have in the fashion industry. Interviews with professionals are included to aid students in decision making about careers choices." - Lori Faulkner, Ferris State University, USA Learn what to expect on the job, required education and training, and the relationship of the role to the fashion industry as a whole. Among the more than 75 role descriptions are four new roles for Sustainability Officer, Transparency Officer, Data Analyst, and Reference Librarian. More than 175 images show you recent developments affecting the industry sectors and career opportunities. Case studies, Social media Strikes features, chapter summaries, key terms, online resources, discussion questions, and a glossary will help you identify which careers match your aptitudes, skill sets, and interests. New to this Edition * In-depth job descriptions for a wider range of careers expanded to include Technical Designer, Brand Marketing Manager, and Spreader and Cutter, among others * New sections on recycling and sustainability, trends in brand marketing, and portfolio development and presentation * Fully updated online resources throughout the book * Updated Case Studies in Career Exploration boxes showcase profiles of companies, interviews with individuals, industry scenarios, and insider tips * Updated Appendices include sample resumes and career positions sorted by career areas, with Web links to salary and benefit information The Fashion Industry and Its Careers STUDIO Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary

Less than three decades ago, when the Chinese bought cloth or clothes, they would have had to use a government-issued coupon. Today the Chinese fashion industry is one of the most dynamic in the world - it not only supplies fashions to the increasingly discerning domestic market, but also provides one-third of the clothing sold in the global market. How did this phenomenal transition come about? What can the growth of the Chinese fashion industry tell us about the post-Mao China? What roles do the local and the global play in the dramatic changes? This book offers a historically informed, ethnographically grounded and interpretive analysis of contemporary Chinese fashion and the fashion industry. It examines the interplay of state politics, market forces, local social and cultural factors, and the global political economy, both in the rise of the Chinese fashion industry and in the life and work of Chinese fashion professionals. As the first ethnographic account of the Chinese fashion industry in the post-Mao era, The Chinese Fashion Industry combines first-hand accounts with sophisticated cultural analysis to offer new insights, and will be of interest to students and scholars of fashion, anthropology and China.

While rooted in traditional marketing principles, successful fashion marketing presents a unique set of opportunities and challenges. Marketing Fashion: A Global Perspective is the first text to engagingly present marketing theories and practices as they specifically relate to apparel, home goods, and other design-driven products. Using a variety of contemporary examples, the text details how fashion marketers develop and apply marketing strategies that meet consumer needs at a profit. Topics covered include: consumer and organizational buying behavior, market research, market segmentation, product planning and positioning, pricing, retailer relationships, and additional classic marketing theories and practices as they relate to design. In addition, Fashion Marketing explores in depth contemporary issues such as technology, social responsibility and ethics, sustainability, and globalization, and considers effective strategies for various economic climates.

Paris, Capital of Fashion accompanies a major exhibition at The Museum at FIT, New York's only museum dedicated solely to the art of fashion. This lavishly-illustrated book is edited by MFIT's director and chief curator, Valerie Steele, also the author of the acclaimed Paris Fashion: A Cultural History. This new book opens with an important essay on how and why Paris became famous as the international "capital of fashion." Steele traces how the mythic "aura" of Paris fashion was constructed over generations, as the splendour of the court at Versailles came to be echoed by the spectacle of the haute couture. Yet Paris has faced repeated challenges from other fashion capitals, especially London, Milan, and New York. Essays by Christopher Breward, David Gilbert, Grazia d'Annunzio, and Antonia Finnane place Paris within a broader global narrative, while Sophie Kurkdjian investigates the cultural value of the Parisian couture, and Agnes Rocomora explores the online imagery of the chic Parisienne. As The New Yorker recently put it, Paris is "the most glamorous and competitive of the world's fashion capitals." No other city has been branded "Fashion" as Paris has. By opening the study of Paris fashion to new approaches, this book explains why Paris still retains its position as the world's undisputed fashion capital.

Fashion knockoffs are everywhere. Even in the out-of-the-way markets of highland Guatemala, fake branded clothes offer a cheap, stylish alternative for people who cannot afford high-priced originals. Fashion companies have taken notice, ensuring that international trade agreements include stronger intellectual property protections to prevent brand "piracy." In Regulating Style, Kedron Thomas approaches the fashion industry from the perspective of indigenous Maya people who make and sell knockoffs, asking why they copy and wear popular brands, how they interact with legal frameworks and state institutions that criminalize their livelihood, and what is really at stake for fashion companies in the global regulation of style.