From consumer boycotts and buycotts to social movement campaigns, examples of individual and collective actors forging political struggles on markets are manifold. The clothing market has been a privileged site for such contention, with global clothing brands and retailers being targets of consumer mobilization for the past 20 years. Labels and product lines now attest for the ethical quality of clothes, which has, in turn, given rise to ethical fashion. The Fight for Ethical Fashion unveils the actors and processes that have driven this market transformation through a detailed study of the Europe-wide coordinated campaign on workers' rights in the global textile industry - the Clean Clothes Campaign. Drawing on insights from qualitative fieldwork using a wide range of empirical sources, Philip Balsiger traces the emergence of this campaign back to the rise of 'consumer campaigns' and shows how tactics were adapted to market contexts in order to have retailers adopt and monitor codes of conduct. By comparing the interactions between campaigners and their corporate targets in Switzerland and France (two countries with a very different history of consumer mobilization for political issues), this ground-breaking book also reveals how one campaign can provoke contrasting reactions and forms of market change.

For two and a half years, Amanda Czerniawski was a sociologist turned plus-size model. Journeying into a world where, as a size 10, she was not considered an average body type, but rather, for the fashion industry, "plus-sized," Czerniawski studied the standards of work and image production in the plus-sized model industry. Fashioning Fat takes us through a model's day-to-day activities, first at open calls at modeling agencies and then through the fashion shows and photo shoots. Czerniawski also interviewed 35 plus-size models about their lives in the world of fashion, bringing to life the strange contradictions of being an object of non-idealized beauty. Fashioning Fat shows us that the mission of many of these models is to challenge our standards of beauty that privilege the thin body; they show us that fat can be sexy. Many plus-size models do often succeed in overcoming years of self-loathing and shame over their bodies, yet, as Czerniawski shows, these women are not the ones in charge of beauty's construction or dissemination. At the corporate level, the fashion industry perpetuates their objectification. Plus-size models must conform to an image created by fashion's tastemakers, as their bodies must fit within narrowly defined parameters of size and shape--an experience not too different from that of straight-sized models. Ultimately, plus-size models find that they are still molding their bodies to fit an image instead of molding an image of beauty to fit their bodies. A much-needed behind-the-scenes look at this growing industry, Fashioning Fat is a fascinating, unique, and important contribution to our understanding of beauty.

Fashion as a societal phenomenon has fascinated scholars in different disciplines such as history, sociology, anthropology, psychology, and marketing often from an interdisciplinary perspective. Fashion mirrors societal changes, cultural norms, and values over time. It can be interpreted as mundane everyday practices, constructions of identity and status as well as being associated with the art world. In this book, the focus lies on marketing and the role of marketers when fashion permeates society in deliberate and subtle ways.

This edited collection critically reflects upon the power of fashion in contemporary society and the role marketing and marketers play in the process of defining, creating, and preserving fashion, but also in divesting fashion that is no longer up to date. It expands on existing knowledge to better understand the role marketers play as cultural agents in determining fashion and its markets. Contributors to the book are international, advanced scholars from a variety of disciplines such as anthropology, marketing, psychology and sociology, who challenge traditional ways of thinking about marketing. In a society where problems with overproduction and excessive consumption represent major challenges, the critical perspective of the role fashion plays in contemporary society and what influence marketing has for shaping fashion are not merely relevant, but necessary.

This cutting-edge, interdisciplinary book will appeal to scholars across a broad range of fields including fashion marketing, fashion studies, and consumer culture research. It will also be valuable for students in advanced courses of study in a variety of disciplines besides marketing.

Table of Contents

Introduction

Karin M. Ekström

Part I

Fashion and Marketing in Society

1. Fashion, Self, and Identity

Colin Campbell

2. Fashion Police to Fast Fashion: "Slow Down and Pull Over!"

Russell Belk

3. Fashioning Marketing and its Consequences

A. Fuat Firat, Deniz Atik, and Zeynep Ozdamar Ertekin

Part II

Social Change and Marketing

4. Embracing Diversity and Body Positivity: The Role of Marketing in Fashion Markets

and Culture

Stefano Prestini, Stefania Borghini, and Antonella Carù

5. From Sanitary to Fashionable Masks: Lessons from Crisis Marketing

Franck Cochoy, Anaïs Daniau, and Alexandre Mallard

6. Marketing Gun Identities Through Firearm Fashions

Terrence H. Witkowski

Part III

Fashion and Brands

7. A Social Practice Perspective on Fashion Branding

Marcus Gianneschi and Johanna Moisander

8.Museums as Channels for Marketing Fashion: Reflections on Marketization and

Artification

Karin M. Ekström

9. A Community in Love: The Relationship and Dynamic between Odd Molly and

its Community

Hanna Wittrock

Part IV

Fashion, Waste, Sustainability and Ethics

10. Consumption of Clothes and the Problems of Waste in Affluent Societies – Understanding the Driving Forces of Consumption and Waste

Karin M. Ekström

11. Sustainable Fashion Marketing: Green or Greenwash?

Elaine L. Ritch

12. ‘Ethical Fashion’ is a Fiction

Efrat Tseëlon

Afterword - Growing Demands of Ethics and Aesthetics

Francesco Morace

/

This is the first book to introduce readers to the crux of ethnic fashion. Covering all aspects, it addresses the significance of sustainability (including culture) and ethnic fashion in the apparel industry. It also highlights concepts and case studies pertaining to ethnic fashion.

"A cut above most workplace histories. Looking at the separate but sometimes overlapping development of European and African-American hairdressing from the early twentieth century to the present, Willett shows how race shaped different trajectories for black and white salons."
--"Lingua Franca"

"Offers an unusually comprehensive look at a significant twentieth-century industry and female preoccupation"
--"American Historical Review"

"Refreshing to read a history so firmly historicized and grounded in working-class and Afro-American history"
-- "Journal of Social History"

"Carefully nuanced and [a] compelling history."
-- Nan Enstad, "The Journal of American History"

Throughout the twentieth century, beauty shops have been places where women could enjoy the company of other women, exchange information, and share secrets. The female equivalent of barbershops, they have been institutions vital to community formation and social change.

But while the beauty shop created community, it also reflected the racial segregation that has so profoundly shaped American society. Links between style, race, and identity were so intertwined that for much of the beauty shop's history, black and white hairdressing industries were largely separate entities with separate concerns. While African American hair-care workers embraced the chance to be independent from white control, negotiated the meanings of hair straightening, and joined in larger political struggles that challenged Jim Crow, white female hairdressers were embroiled in struggles over self-definition and opposition to their industry's emphasis on male achievement. Yet despite their differences, black and whitehairdressers shared common stakes as battles were waged over issues of work, skill, and professionalism unique to women's service work.

Permanent Waves traces the development of the American beauty shop, from its largely separate racial origins, through white recognition of the "ethnic market," to the present day.

The House of Chanel is synonymous with not one, but two, iconic designers. First there was Gabrielle, and then there was Karl.

Chanel is a house known for its signatures that not only changed the course of fashion history but still resonate today – the Little Black Dress, the tweed suit, costume jewellery, Chanel No5. These signatures were inspired by Gabrielle Chanel's taste, life experience and travels – but it was Karl Lagerfeld who took these signatures and ingeniously adapted them for the twenty-first century woman. From his first days at the helm of Chanel in the 1980s, to his creative application of the Chanel logo to everything from biker boots to a space rocket, King Karl's reign at Chanel is nothing if not legendary.

Little Book of Chanel by Lagerfeld covers his most exquisite pieces, breathtaking catwalk shows and constant reinvention that have maintained Chanel as the most illustrious couture house in the world. Written by the bestselling author of Little Book of Chanel, this beautifully illustrated book is the essential guide to Lagerfeld's tenure at Chanel.

It is commonly known that fashion is big business, yet given its global significance, little has been written on the phenomenon of the fashion system. Instead, books have tended to focus on dress history, although recently the discipline has taken a more theoretical turn, with a spate of books appearing that analyze the underlying forces motivating fashion. This pioneering book unites theory and practice to provide an integrated series of snapshots taken from different perspectives of the fashion business in the second half of the twentieth century. Featuring contributions by leading experts in three main areas of important debate within the industry - the theory and culture of fashion; design and industry; and image and marketing - the book will be an essential reference for students, practitioners and theoreticians. It addresses such key issues as: the relationship between culture and clothing; the intersection of fashion and modernity; the origins of glamour; the role of creativity and the power of design; the chain store challenge; the age of the thinking designer; retail concepts; and minimalism in fashion. It is certain to be required reading on fashion courses and in related disciplines, including media, cultural and consumption studies.

Hair is potent. It can be an emotional and intense matter across gender - it will grow in places you don't like, it may desert you - suddenly, or gradually. It is a symbol of gender, sexuality, status, and more. Part memoir, part investigation across history, politics, religion, and culture, Hair/Power explores the power, control and ultimate liberation that hair can provide.

Less than three decades ago, when the Chinese bought cloth or clothes, they would have had to use a government-issued coupon. Today the Chinese fashion industry is one of the most dynamic in the world - it not only supplies fashions to the increasingly discerning domestic market, but also provides one-third of the clothing sold in the global market. How did this phenomenal transition come about? What can the growth of the Chinese fashion industry tell us about the post-Mao China? What roles do the local and the global play in the dramatic changes? This book offers a historically informed, ethnographically grounded and interpretive analysis of contemporary Chinese fashion and the fashion industry. It examines the interplay of state politics, market forces, local social and cultural factors, and the global political economy, both in the rise of the Chinese fashion industry and in the life and work of Chinese fashion professionals. As the first ethnographic account of the Chinese fashion industry in the post-Mao era, The Chinese Fashion Industry combines first-hand accounts with sophisticated cultural analysis to offer new insights, and will be of interest to students and scholars of fashion, anthropology and China.

Clothing occupies a complex and important position in relation to human experience. Not just utilitarian, dress gives form to a society's ideas about the sacred and secular, about exclusion and inclusion, about age, beauty, sexuality and status. In Dressing the Elite, the author explores the multiple meanings that garments held in early modern England. Clothing was used to promote health and physical well-being, and to manage and structure, life transitions. It helped individuals create social identities and also to disguise them. Indeed, so culturally powerful was the manipulation of appearances that authorities sought its control. Laws regulated access to the dress styles of the elite, and through less formal strategies, techniques of disguise were kept as the perquisites of the powerful. Focusing on the elite, the author argues that clothing was not just a form of cultural expression but in turn contributed to societal formation. Clothes shaped the configurations of the body, affected spaces and interactions between people and altered the perceptions of the wearers and viewers. People put on and manipulated their garments, but in turn dress also exercised a reverse influence. Clothes made not just the man and the woman, but also the categories of gender itself. Topics covered include cross-dressing, sumptuary laws, mourning apparel and individual styles.

This book presents high-quality original contributions on the fashion supply chain. A wide spectrum of application domains are covered, processing of big data coming from digital and social media channels, fashion new product development, fashion design, fashion marketing and communication strategy, business models and entrepreneurship, e-commerce and omni-channel management, corporate social responsibility, new materials for fashion product, wearable technologies. The contents are based on presentations delivered at IT4Fashion 2017, the 7th International Conference in Business Models and ICT Technologies for the Fashion Supply Chain, which was held in Florence, Italy, in April 2017, and at IT4Fashion 2018, the 8th edition of the same conference, which was held in Florence, Italy, in April 2018. This conference series represents a targeted response to the growing need for research that reports and debates supply chain business models and technologies applied to the fashion industry, with the aim of increasing knowledge in the area of product lifecycle management and supply chain management in that industry.

This book details the crux of green fashion, addressing various environmental aspects and discussing the importance of sustainable fashion in the apparel industry. It addresses various important topics such as Relationship marketing in green fashion, Animal Ethics and Welfare in the Fashion and Lifestyle Industries, Green Flame retardants, etc.

This book will broaden readers' understanding of the links between the music and fashion industries. It highlights the challenges currently facing the fashion industry in terms of hyper-competition, definition of ever-faster trends, changing consumer demands etc. In fact, the fashion industry is heavily influenced by the digital revolution in the music industry, which has changed the face of individual music consumption and social reference, and therefore, also has impacts on fashion consumption and social reference. This understanding is crucial in order to realign any fashion company's strategies to the demands of modern fashion consumers. In terms of content, the book first discusses the social perspective of fashion and music. This includes an analysis of music as a key influencer of fashion trends, both theoretically and on the basis of a case study on grunge music. Then the role of music in the fashion business is addressed, and covers in-store music and the role of music in fashion communication. Following up, the role of fashion in the music business is analyzed. This includes the trend of co-design of fashion collections, music artists' role of differentiation by style, and the market for music fashion merchandise articles (both theoretically and drawing on a case study). In closing, potential lessons learned from the music industry are developed for the fashion industry. This includes an analysis of the digital revolution and the advent of the crowdfunding idea (both theoretically and in a case study).

How did America's largest clothing retailer, an institution that changed the way Americans shopped and dressed, manage to rise so fast, then fall so hard? From its boom years in the 1970s, Gap's performance went from bad to dismal. By the close of the 1990s there was severe doubt it could survive at all. Gap's alleged labor practices around the world didn't help either. Nevaer leads you through the boom years of this extraordinary corporation, the acquisitions that soured, the product strategies that failed, and thus through the social history of America during those churning years--the changing mores and how they shaped not only the GAP but mass-merchandising itself worldwide.

From a single store in San Francisco in 1969, the Gap, which grew to include Banana Republic and Old Navy, was soon operating more than 3,800 stores with worldwide sales approaching $15 billion. Gap's traditional constituency-- Generation Y--could not be less interested. Gap kids and Baby Gap don't even register a blip on the radar screen. Nevaer shows how all this came about. He describes how the Gap's success in the last quarter of the 20th century parallels the development of consumerism in the United States. He shows how its ability to bridge generations holds lessons for others in corporate America. He also shows why the Gap's history can be seen as a reflection of America's, how it ran on the same track with the country's social mores, particularly in the rise of the antifashion revolution and the proliferation of gay aesthetics. Nevaer's book is a stunning achievement, a true and lasting examination of why we wear what we wear and of the industry that makes it happen.

* Develops the concept of the Celebrity as a Human Fashion Brand, which offers a fresh perspective in the Fashion Marketing field. * Includes a broad range of well-known case studies in every chapter, coupled with reflective questions, which can be used for in-class exercises. * Ideal recommended reading for advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students studying Celebrity Fashion and Influencer Marketing, Fashion Marketing, Fashion Brand Management and Consumer Behaviour.

Proposing a comprehensive account of the global fashion industry, this title aims to present fashion as a social and cultural fact. Drawing on six principles from the industry, Godart guides the reader through the economic, social and political arena of the world's most glamorous industry.

Winner, 2016 Best First Book Prize from the Immigration and Ethnic History Society Finalist, 2016 Sami Rohr Prize for Jewish Literature Winner, 2015 Book Prize from the Southern Jewish Historical Society Finalist, 2015 Jordan Schnitzer Book Award from the Association for Jewish Studies Winner, 2014 National Jewish Book Award in American Jewish Studies from the Jewish Book Council The majority of Jewish immigrants who made their way to the United States between 1820 and 1924 arrived nearly penniless; yet today their descendants stand out as exceptionally successful. How can we explain their dramatic economic ascent? Have Jews been successful because of cultural factors distinct to them as a group, or because of the particular circumstances that they encountered in America? The Rag Race argues that the Jews who flocked to the United States during the age of mass migration were aided appreciably by their association with a particular corner of the American economy: the rag trade. From humble beginnings, Jews rode the coattails of the clothing trade from the margins of economic life to a position of unusual promise and prominence, shaping both their societal status and the clothing industry as a whole. Comparing the history of Jewish participation within the clothing trade in the United States with that of Jews in the same business in England, The Rag Race demonstrates that differences within the garment industry on either side of the Atlantic contributed to a very real divergence in social and economic outcomes for Jews in each setting.

"Give me time and I'll give you a revolution" - Alexander McQueen

Ever since its creation in 1992, the House of Alexander McQueen has been synonymous with drama, risk-taking and cutting-edge innovation. From iconic collaborations, like with Lady Gaga for her "Bad Romance" music video, to shockingly controversial runway shows like The Horn of Plenty, Alexander McQueen was beloved for his fantastical silhouettes and blurring of gender lines.

This exquisitely illustrated volume explores the story behind the House, from McQueen's own early days to the current leadership of Sarah Burton. Through a carefully curated collection of finished designs, close-up details and sketches, this book pulls back the veil on the wonderful world of McQueen.

'Fascinating' Sunday Times 'Deeply sourced and rich with anecdotes' The Times 'Like a nonfiction version of The Devil Wears Prada' Elizabeth Day 'Odell's extensive reporting dredges up a wealth of delightful details' New York Times This definitive biography of Anna Wintour chronicles the steep climb of an ambitious young woman who would, with singular and legendary focus, become the most powerful woman in media. As a child, Anna Wintour was a tomboy with no apparent interest in clothing but, seduced by the miniskirts and bob haircuts of swinging 1960s London, she grew into a fashion-obsessed teenager. Her father, the influential editor of the Evening Standard, loomed large in her life, and once he decided she should become editor in chief of Vogue, she never looked back. Impatient to start her career, she left high school and got a job at a fashionable boutique in London - an experience that would be the first of many defeats. Undeterred, she found work in the competitive world of magazines, eventually moving to New York. Before long, Anna's journey to Vogue became a battle to ascend, no matter who or what stood in her way. Once she was crowned editor in chief - in one of the stormiest transitions in fashion magazine history - she continued the fight to retain her enviable position, ultimately rising to dominate all of Conde Nast. Based on extensive interviews with Anna Wintour's closest friends and collaborators, including some of the biggest names in fashion, journalist Amy Odell has crafted the most revealing portrait of Wintour ever published. Weaving Anna's personal story into a larger narrative about the hierarchical dynamics of the fashion industry and the complex world of Conde Nast, Anna charts the relentless ambition of the woman who would become an icon.

This book highlights different roles in entrepreneurship and innovation, based on the act of setting up a new venture in the area of sustainable luxury and fashion, which also involves cognitive and motivational characteristics. It also discusses the fact that many sustainability-promoting innovations require substantial technological advances.

'A gripping blockbuster ... Thomas researches meticulously and writes with simmering even-handed anger' TELEGRAPH.

Fashionopolis is the definitive book on the cost of fast fashion, and a blueprint for how we get to a more sustainable future.

Fashion has blighted our planet.

Today, one out of six people on earth work in fashion, churning out 100 billion garments a year. Yet 98 percent of them do not earn a living wage, and 2.1 billion tonnes of clothing is thrown away annually. The clothing industry's exploitation of fellow humans and the environment has reached epic levels. What should we do?

Bestselling author and veteran journalist Dana Thomas has travelled the globe to find the answers. In Fashionopolis, she details the damage wrought by fashion's behemoths, and celebrates the visionaries including activists, artisans, designers, and tech entrepreneurs fighting for change.

We all have been casual about our clothes. It's time to get dressed with intention. Fashionopolis is the first comprehensive look at how to start.

The Fashion Business Manual is everything you need to start building your fashion brand. It takes you step by step through building a brand from startup to retailing, using illustrations to break down complex business information into an easy-to-read visual format - making it a dynamic resource for fashion students, entrepreneurs and people in the fashion industry.

The beauty and fashion world attracts enormous interest. Everybody knows who Naomi Campbell is, but few know who South Africa's local Naomi Campbells were (and are)!

This title is an extraordinary mix of glamour, nostalgia and social analysis. It takes the reader on a journey through our South African history and politics from the unusual perspective of the beauty industry. Backed by a photo gallery of classic icons from the 50s, 60s and 70s to the present, it celebrates the inspirational role of beautiful and courageous Black women, especially models and beauty queens. It also looks at the business of beauty and recounts the struggles and successes of Black practitioners trying to make it in this competitive sector.

The author is someone who herself was a leading model of the 1980s. Nakedi Ribane co-owned one of the very few Black modeling agencies of note in South Africa. She is ideally placed to offer a fascinating 'behind-the-scenes' look at one of the most under-rated yet influential industries of our time.

* THE SUNDAY TIMES BESTSELLER * * A BBC RADIO 4 BOOK OF THE WEEK * ‘I wish he could be editor of the world!’ GRAHAM NORTON ‘Enjoy it. Share it.’ IDRIS ELBA ‘Inspirational . . . and it’s not just for people in fashion’ CLAUDIA WINKLEMAN ‘One of the most inspirational books I’ve ever read’ CHRIS EVANS ‘Inspiring and fascinating’ BERNARDINE EVARISTO ‘Courageously truthful’ SALMAN RUSHDIE 'Edward Enninful is a pioneer’ ELIZABETH DAY — Why look back when you can look forward? Why look in when you can look out? Where’s the next evolution? I throw everything into my work, but once it’s done, I’m really more concerned with what’s new. The future is my thing. Edward Enninful has lived an extraordinary life. Here, for the first time, he shares the inspiring story of his journey, beginning in a childhood bedroom in Ghana overlooking firing squads, to arriving in 1990s London as an asylum seeker, to today setting the cultural agenda as the first Black editor-in-chief of British Vogue. His covers have changed our understanding of beauty and desirability. Featuring exclusively African models, first responders, global activists and the oldest cover star at age 85, they have also broken sales records. This is the story of how he did it. A Visible Man is the story of a husband, son, brother, friend – and icon. Taking us from the neon thrills of Soho clubs to nights spent on friends’ sofas, this is the story of Edward’s phenomenal grit and determination: through fame and failures, joy and loss, ill health and addiction, heartbreak and coming out. It’s the story of one man’s revolutionary mission to change how we see the world, showing how unwavering passion and perseverance can allow anyone to make their mark.

From Carrie Bradshaw to Grace Jones, and from Nicki Minaj to Blair Waldorf, New York is the fashion 'it girl' capital of the world. Home of both laid-back street style and the luxury of the MET Gala, New York has earned its reputation as one of the most stylish capitals in the world. From the eclectic looks of Brooklyn to chic Manhattan elegance, it is a city that hums with style. This instalment of the beautiful Little Books of City Style series will explore the fashion history of the city that never sleeps, providing an exquisitely illustrated guide to dressing like a Native New Yorker.