In recent years, having received a considerable boost by social media, a young and dynamic scene has emerged that is dedicated to what has become known as queer tattooing. This special community, which is growing steadily, has been born out of a desire to break with the hierarchies and patriarchal structures of traditional tattoo art. It aims to create safe, tolerant, and inclusive spaces where queer, nonbinary, and trans people can experiment away from the mainstream and develop their own individual styles and techniques. In their work, many tattoo artists break free from the destructive, heteronormative, and capitalist ideals of beauty, creating a visual language that subverts the long tradition of cultural appropriation which characterises the traditional tattoo scene. Their designs reveal a unique creative flair for queer iconography. This book is the first comprehensive introduction to this vibrant and diverse queer tattoo community. It presents 50 international tattoo artists with the help of extensive portraits, texts, and series of images.

"A cut above most workplace histories. Looking at the separate but sometimes overlapping development of European and African-American hairdressing from the early twentieth century to the present, Willett shows how race shaped different trajectories for black and white salons."
--"Lingua Franca"

"Offers an unusually comprehensive look at a significant twentieth-century industry and female preoccupation"
--"American Historical Review"

"Refreshing to read a history so firmly historicized and grounded in working-class and Afro-American history"
-- "Journal of Social History"

"Carefully nuanced and [a] compelling history."
-- Nan Enstad, "The Journal of American History"

Throughout the twentieth century, beauty shops have been places where women could enjoy the company of other women, exchange information, and share secrets. The female equivalent of barbershops, they have been institutions vital to community formation and social change.

But while the beauty shop created community, it also reflected the racial segregation that has so profoundly shaped American society. Links between style, race, and identity were so intertwined that for much of the beauty shop's history, black and white hairdressing industries were largely separate entities with separate concerns. While African American hair-care workers embraced the chance to be independent from white control, negotiated the meanings of hair straightening, and joined in larger political struggles that challenged Jim Crow, white female hairdressers were embroiled in struggles over self-definition and opposition to their industry's emphasis on male achievement. Yet despite their differences, black and whitehairdressers shared common stakes as battles were waged over issues of work, skill, and professionalism unique to women's service work.

Permanent Waves traces the development of the American beauty shop, from its largely separate racial origins, through white recognition of the "ethnic market," to the present day.

In a world driven by well-being and appearances, the modern healthcare and beauty industry is a thriving one with consumer demographics that span across all layers of society. Besides the conglomerates that continue to dominate international markets, there has also been a large rise in independent companies with strong ideals and concepts that cater to a more comprehensive as well as specific range of needs. BRANDLife: Health & Beauty explores how compelling graphic identities and interiors play a crucial role in impacting the perceptions and promises offered by upcoming and established healthcare and beauty brands today. From eye-catching packaging on cosmetics and skincare products to effective spatial planning for hair salons and medical centres, it offers visual inspiration and valuable insights as to how creativity and design ultimately affect the quality of experiences and outcomes.

In My Shoes by Tamara Mellon, tells the Jimmy Choo founder's jaw-dropping account of her life in the fashion business. 'Wonderfully bling' Sunday Times 'Part memoir, part MBA masterclass... an impressively erudite and candid autobiography' Glamour 'From her troubled childhood and her time as a young editor, to her partnership with Jimmy Choo and her very public relationships, Mellon offers a gripping account of the episodes that have made her. A book Jackie Collins would be proud of, with the added bonus that it is all true. A voyeuristic joy from start to finish' Harpers Bazaar 'Brilliant' Mail on Sunday 'Pure Danielle Steel, with added MBA, that jets from Vogue shoots in Nepal and dates with Christian Slater, to trade fairs, boardroom takeovers and a family showdown over missing millions. Perfect for grown-up fashionistas and wannabe entrepreneurs' Sunday Times 'A juicy and honest memoir from one of the most successful and self-made British businesswomen of her generation' Financial Times Tamara Mellon, OBE, is Founder and Creative Director of Tamara Mellon, a luxury lifestyle brand. She is the cofounder and the former CEO and Chief Creative Officer of Jimmy Choo, which she led for fifteen years until selling her share of the company. She divides her time between London and New York. William Patrick has co-written numerous memoirs, including Sidney Poitier's number-one bestseller The Measure of a Man.

Called “the funniest book on fashion ever written� by Vogue, here is the hilarious chronicle of life behind the runway   For years, French journalist and documentarian Loïc Prigent has been tweeting the funny interactions, cruel criticisms, and absurd exclamations overheard during Fashion Week. Snarky statements on fashion mixed with absurdist poetry, the original French edition of Prigent’s book has been celebrated by thousands of fans. For the first time, discover the backstage world of the models, designers, and rich clients as hilariously overheard and rendered in hundreds of quotes.

Women have an affinity with the brand of perfume they wear. People often hold strong emotional connections to different scents, such as their mother's perfume or the body spray they wore as a teen. Despite huge marketing budgets, the launches of established brands often fail, despite extensive marketing research and lavish resources. Why is this? This text is a first in the field to recognize that fine fragrance cannot be treated as any other product. With case studies from Jill Sander, Estee Lauder and Dior, this book debunks the classic marketing techniques which often hinder the success of new perfumes. Authored by two leading market researchers, this study analyses the 'five great brands' of the perfume industry and demonstrates how to value perfume lines according to 'brand DNA'. This ground-breaking book will provide students with all the tools of a successful practitioner in the perfume industry. Understanding the Marketing Exceptionality of Prestige Perfumes will prove to be a vital text for any student, specialist or practitioner of luxury marketing looking to understand the fine fragrance market.

Strategic Fashion Management: Concepts, Models and Strategies for Competitive Advantage is a highly accessible book providing a unique look into the strategic drivers of the dynamic and ever-growing fashion industry. Derived from the knowledge gap in quality strategic fashion management literature, this book blends theory with a variety of examples and uses 18 case studies to help bring to life contemporary topics faced by senior executives. The analysis is highly global in nature and aims to accelerate the strategic skills required to navigate the industry and contribute to a firm's growth. Using copious examples from across the world, this book provides in-depth discourse and progressive theoretical concepts and strategies which readers will be able to apply immediately to their studies or practices. The book is particularly suitable for final-year undergraduate and postgraduate students studying fashion management or marketing, as well as those on MBA and international business courses who wish to understand more about the fashion ecosystem. It is also designed to serve as an important reference for executives who are interested in conceptualising strategic issues that are pertinent to the industry.

New Fashion Boutique Design is a practical and inspirational illustrated volume that gathers examples of some of the most exclusive boutiques and stores in the world and introduces the latest trends in shop design, an area where fashion and creativity merge to deliver a unique shopping and branding experience. From luxury designer stores and exclusive boutiques to shoe shops, this comprehensive volume provides useful insights into international retail architecture and comprehensive information on the featured projects. Fashion stores are no longer mere places that one enters simply with the intention of purchasing products. Shops have also become venues for events, stages for exciting performances, and sometimes even landmarks. Likewise, retail spaces have become statements that celebrate designer labels and their products and offer multiple opportunities to engage with the brand and its values. A range of these grand stages has been captured in New Fashion Boutique Design, which offers ideas, solutions, and different approaches to product presentation across its 240 colorful and inspiring pages.

This textbook carefully guides learners through the principles of body analysis, heat and water treatments, masks and wraps, tanning, massage techniques, and electrical applications.

Explaining its subject accessibly, and with practical diagrams and sumptuous photographs throughout, The Art and Science of Spa & Body Therapy helps spa technicians to understand both the theory and practice of their vocation.

Marketing and branding inform many of the strategic and creative decisions involved in fashion design and product development. Marketing is a vital component of the industry and an understanding of its importance and role is essential for those planning a career in fashion. Marketing Fashion, Second Edition is a practical guide to the fundamental principles of marketing and branding, from creating a customer profile to developing a brand identity. The book explains key theoretical concepts and illustrates how they are applied within the global fashion and retail industry, from haute couture to the mass market. All tools in the modern marketer's kit are discussed, from attending fashion fairs to viral marketing and online strategies. Using examples and case studies drawn from a broad range of fashion, textile, and retail businesses, students are led through the marketing process from initial consumer and market research to the creation of exciting marketing and branding campaigns. The book is designed to appeal to students at degree or foundation level as well as those contemplating a career within the fashion industry.

Fashion Retail Supply Chain Management: A Systems Optimization Approach is a comprehensive reference source that provides the state-of-the-art findings on many important emerging research issues related to retail supply chain management and optimization problems. The book takes an explicit systems approach, and discusses retailled fashion supply chain coordination mechanisms and consumer market informationdriven fashion retail supply chain models, as well as suggesting future research avenues. This volume will be of interest not only to those involved in the fashion industry, but also to academics and practitioners in the wider fields of business, manufacturing engineering, systems engineering and supply chain management.

From the turbulence of the 1930s emerged the Golden Age of Glamour. Framed by two world-changing events - the economic crash of 1929 and the outbreak of the Second World War - the 1930s saw new looks emerge and thrive, despite economic and social uncertainty. This was the decade of the bias cut, the statement shoulder, the puff sleeve, the tea dress, the fur shrug and the floor-length evening gown. It was also the era that saw Hollywood challenge Paris's fashion crown and its stars become fashion icons, signalling a new grown-up direction in womenswear design. Packed with over 500 original photographs, illustrations and sketches from the decade, this is an essential guide for any fashion historian, student or vintage enthusiast. These classic images have been selected from popular fashion publications of the day, mail-order catalogues and Hollywood studio press shots, including material from Chic Parisien, Harper's Bazaar, Sears, La Femme Chic and film studios Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer and Paramount. Authored and edited by renowned design historian, Charlotte Fiell, this volume also contains an authoritative introduction by fashion historian, Emmanuelle Dirix, as well as the biographies of the key designers and fashion houses of the period.

Scouted in the street when she was 17, Victoire Dauxerre's story started like a teenager's fantasy: within months she was strutting down the catwalks of New York's major fashion shows. But when fashion executives and photographers forced her to become ever thinner, Victoire's dream became a nightmare. In Size Zero Victoire unflinchingly exposes the ugly face of fashion and details her personal battle with anorexia nervosa and bulimia with painful honesty. A shocking indictment of the pressures our society puts on young women, her story will give strength to anyone trying to overcome or understand the increasingly prevalent problem of eating disorders. 'Unique and persuasive ... bravely, Dauxerre names names - even the big ones' Sunday Times 'It is rare for someone to blow the whistle so spectacularly as Dauxerre. Hopefully her book will be a force for good' Evening Standard Written with Valerie Peronnet.

Fashion buying and merchandising has changed dramatically over the last 20 years. Aspects such as the advent of new technologies and the changing nature of the industry into one that is faster paced than ever before, as well as the shift towards more ethical and sustainable practices have resulted in a dramatic change of the roles. As a result, contemporary fast fashion retailers do not follow the traditional buying cycle processes step by step, critical paths are wildly different, and there has been a huge increase in 'in-season buying' as a response to heightened consumer demand. This textbook is a comprehensive guide to 21st-century fashion buying and merchandising, considering fast fashion, sustainability, ethical issues, omnichannel retailing, and computer-aided design. It presents an up-to-date buying cycle that reflects key aspects of fashion buying and merchandising, as well as in-depth explanations of fashion product development, trend translation, and sourcing. It applies theoretical and strategic business models to buying and merchandising that have traditionally been used in marketing and management. This book is ideal for all fashion buying and merchandising students, specifically second- and final-year undergraduate as well as MA/MSc fashion students. It will also be useful to academics and practitioners who wish to gain a greater understanding of the industry today.

An expose on the fashion industry written by the Observer's 'Ethical Living' columnist, examining the inhumane and environmentally devastating story behind the clothes we so casually buy and wear. Coming at a time when the global financial crisis and contracting of consumer spending is ushering in a new epoch for the fashion industry, To Die For offers a very plausible vision of how green could really be the new black. Taking particular issue with our current mania for both big-name labels and cheap fashion, To Die For sets an agenda for the urgent changes that can and need to be made by both the industry and the consumer. Far from outlining a future of drab, ethical clothing, Lucy Siegle believes that it is indeed possible to be an 'ethical fashionista', simply by being aware of how and where (and by whom) clothing is manufactured. The global banking crisis has put the consumer at a crossroads: when money is tight should we embrace cheap fast fashion to prop up an already engorged wardrobe, or should we reject this as the ultimate false economy and advocate a return to real fashion, bolstered by the principles of individualism and style pedigree? In this impassioned book, Siegle analyses the global epidemic of unsustainable fashion, taking stock of our economic health and moral accountabilities to expose the pitfalls of fast fashion. Refocusing the debate squarely back on the importance of basic consumer rights, Siegle reveals the truth behind cut price, bulk fashion and the importance of your purchasing decisions, advocating the case for a new sustainable design era where we are assured of value for money: ethically, morally and in real terms.

A guide to cosmetic creams that focuses on formulation, production, and safety concerns Cosmetic Creams: Development, Manufacture and Marketing of Effective Skin Care Products puts the focus on the structure and formulation of a cosmetic cream, the production process, the effect of each ingredient, as well as safety considerations. Comprehensive in scope, the book contains a basic definition of cosmetics and describes the types of skin creams currently on the market, the major ingredients used, and example compositions. The author, Wilfried Rahse?a noted expert on the topic?offers guidelines for estimating manufacturing costs and includes procedures for an effective safety assessment. The book contains information on various aspects of skin penetration and production and covers issues like materials used and hygienic packaging. In addition, Rahse reviews legal regulations with an emphasis on the European market. He discusses GMP and EHEDG directives. This important book: -Offers a comprehensive resource that explores all aspects of cosmetic cream manufacturing and marketing -Provides valuable guidelines for practitioners in the field -Covers the underlying technologies of cosmetic creams -Includes a review of raw material and manufacturing costs, hygiene and safety, and legal regulations -Written by an author with more than 30 years? experience in the industry Written for cosmetic chemists, chemists in industry, chemical engineers, dermatologists, Cosmetic Creams: Development, Manufacture and Marketing of Effective Skin Care Products, offers a unique industrial perspective of the topic that is comprehensive in scope.

This edited volume comprises ideas, visions, strategies, and dreams of entrepreneurs, managers, scientists and political experts who share their best practice experience relating to the joint goal of a more sustainable, humanistic, and responsible fashion industry. Readers will find a variety of approaches and strategies that in sum represent a rich pool of insights and cases for anyone interested in the study of new management perspectives and in the systematic advancement of sustainable fashion.In 14 chapters, international authors discuss topics such as Sustainable Business Models, Cradle-to-Cradle, Circular Economy, Human Rights, Ethical Supply Chain Management, Sustainable Fashion Consumption, Certification and Auditing, Traceability, Impact Measurement, and Industry Transformation. Business case studies include H&M, Filippa K, Melawear, Otto, Tauko, and Tchibo. Further brands that are discussed in the book are Prada, Burberry, Hermes, Hugo Boss, and many more. The book demonstrates that sustainable fashion can hardly be realized by just one actor or by using just one business tool or governance instrument. The sustainable transformation of the textile sector requires concerted action of businesses, governments, NGOs, and consumers to clearly demonstrate a coalition for change and a willingness and power to end inhumane and unsustainable business practices in the 21st century. The sum of innovative approaches and solutions presented in this book shows that the momentum for change is strong and that mutual learning, respect and collaboration can lead to interesting and effective new paths of co-creation and shared responsibility in the fashion industry.

From the shopping mall to the corner bistro, knockoffs are everywhere in today's marketplace. Conventional wisdom holds that copying kills creativity, and that laws that protect against copies are essential to innovation--and economic success. But are copyrights and patents always necessary? In The Knockoff Economy, Kal Raustiala and Christopher Sprigman provocatively argue that creativity can not only survive in the face of copying, but can thrive.
The Knockoff Economy approaches the question of incentives and innovation in a wholly new way--by exploring creative fields where copying is generally legal, such as fashion, food, and even professional football. By uncovering these important but rarely studied industries, Raustiala and Sprigman reveal a nuanced and fascinating relationship between imitation and innovation. In some creative fields, copying is kept in check through informal industry norms enforced by private sanctions. In others, the freedom to copy actually promotes creativity. High fashion gave rise to the very term "knockoff," yet the freedom to imitate great designs only makes the fashion cycle run faster--and forces the fashion industry to be even more creative.
Raustiala and Sprigman carry their analysis from food to font design to football plays to finance, examining how and why each of these vibrant industries remains innovative even when imitation is common. There is an important thread that ties all these instances together--successful creative industries can evolve to the point where they become inoculated against--and even profit from--a world of free and easy copying. And there are important lessons here for copyright-focused industries, like music and film, that have struggled as digital technologies have made copying increasingly widespread and difficult to stop.
Raustiala and Sprigman's arguments have been making headlines in The New Yorker, the New York Times, the Financial Times, the Boston Globe, Le Monde, and at the Freakonomics blog, where they are regular contributors. By looking where few had looked before--at markets that fall outside normal IP law--The Knockoff Economy opens up fascinating creative worlds. And it demonstrates that not only is a great deal of innovation possible without intellectual property, but that intellectual property's absence is sometimes better for innovation.

Charting the movements, developments and ideas that transformed the way women dress, this book gives a unique perspective on the history of twentieth-century fashion. From the invention of the bias cut and the stiletto heel to the designers who changed the way we think about clothes, the book is entertaining, intelligent and a visual feast.

The first book to consider the subject, Wholesale Couture: London and Beyond, 1930-70 seeks to revise the notion that wholesale couturiers were simply copyists and demonstrate the complexities of their design processes and business strategies. This term has fallen out of usage; however, it was used to describe the pinnacle of the British ready-to-wear fashion industry between the 1930s and 1960s. Companies within this sector have typically been recognised as creators of high-quality copies of French haute couture, using ready-to-wear techniques. Liz Tregenza traces wholesale couture garments from concept to usage, considering design, manufacture, branding, promotion, retail and export. She looks beyond the garments produced and investigates the people behind these firms, consequently demonstrating the significant role that largely Jewish immigrants played in the development and success of this industry. The book also considers the wider social and economic factors that affected manufacturers and consumers; the effect of austerity, rationing and the Utility scheme, and the pressing need for wholesale couturiers to export their products internationally. It demonstrates that 1946 was a critical year for re-building and re-imagining the London fashion industry and that wholesale couturiers were at the centre of these developments. Furthermore, it reveals the impact of changing consumer purchasing power, including the burgeoning youth market, for fashion manufacturers. Offering a new perspective on British fashion history, Wholesale Couture demonstrates that these couturiers were vital in cementing London's status as a ready-to-wear fashion centre.

Here, leading historians explore how our ideas of what is attractive are influenced by a broad range of social and economic factors. They force us to reckon with the ways that beauty has been made, bought and sold in modern America, how retailers have shaped popular consciousness about beauty and how cultural assumptions have influenced the commodification of beauty. In order to address these topics the authors look at particular examples including:
* the sexual dynamics of bathing suits and shirtcollars
* the deeper meanings of corsets
* the social role of the African American hair salon.

In her collection of autobiographical essays, fashion magazine editor Justine Cullen takes us on a hilariously candid exploration of her life so far - and all the mistakes she's made along the way. Semi-Gloss is an intimate, sharp and witty look at growing up and growing older from the kind of woman who seems like she has it all together - the glamorous job, the perfect family, the killer wardrobe. But, chipping away at that shiny, sparkly surface, Justine reveals the beautiful mess that lies beneath. A wildly entertaining and sometimes bumpy ride through a life well-lived, by one of Australia's most respected female voices.

'There isn't a more comprehensive source to Twenties fashion that I can think of ... An absolute must for anyone interested in Twenties fashion or art deco' Style High Club 'A source of all the styles, colours, shapes, and silhouettes of the Golden Twenties' Vogue From the glitz and glamour of the Roaring Twenties came a fashion revolution. The 1920s is a decade synonymous with social change, reflected in its groundbreaking fashions: from the daring elegance of the 'New Woman' to never-before-seen silhouettes, the styles of the Roaring Twenties still capture the imagination a century later. Sumptuously illustrated with over 500 original photographs, sketches and prints, this extensive sourcebook documents the season-by-season fashions of the Jazz Age. Follow the evolving fashion trends and uncover a fascinating analysis of the progression from haute couture to ready-to-wear in this essential handbook for all fashion historians, students and vintage enthusiasts. Authored and edited by renowned design historian, Charlotte Fiell, this volume also contains an authoritative introduction by fashion historian Emmanuelle Dirix, as well as the biographies of the key designers and fashion houses of the period.

How are aesthetics and ethics related to the practical realities of the global fashion industry? Both have played an important role in academic fashion studies to this point, but they are most often discussed in the context of abstract phenomena such as modernity and capitalism, or identity issues such as sexuality, class and gender. The essays in this volume strive instead to show how the realities of the global fashion industry have important and pertinent aesthetic and ethical consequences. This collection provides critical and philosophical analysis of the interplay of aesthetics and ethics within the global fashion industry. Characterized by an increasingly fast spinning production, the industry is highly exploitative in terms of environment and labor force: underpaid textile workers, retailers working under brutal competition from the mass-merchandise discounters, young designers, seamstresses and curators often working for free, and a vast body of aspiring models. In addition, fashion-related aesthetic ideals are becoming more influential than ever in directing consumers in their social and personal identification processes and bodily practices with sometimes fatal consequences. Covering a wide range of subjects such as fashion's highly problematic production and consumption practices, the possibility of producing and consuming fashion ethically, fashion's intimate connection with nature and technology, Fashion Aesthetics and Ethics highlights the powerful aesthetical presence of fashion in relation to its ethical premises and often problematic outcomes.

The term 'tailored' has changed as methods of manufacture and the retailing of clothes have evolved. This book demonstrates the wide range of cutting methods used to produce garments which are described as 'tailored' jackets. Although the main focus is on modern methods of producing clothing, a rich and complex cutting tradition is acknowledged and used. It is hoped that the modern garment designer will be inspired to rediscover methods that retain their validity today.

The different approaches to 'tailored' cutting are described under three headings: bespoke cutting, engineered cutting and style cutting. The rich heritage of the latter came from the tremendous creativity that was unleashed by women's emancipation at the beginning of the twentieth century and the merging of tailored styles with fashionable clothing. The section on style cutting has therefore derived some of the cutting techniques from that period, thus demonstrating how they can be applied to current methods of production.